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Great video, this made the job simple and easy to fix thank you

🙏🏾 trying this tomorrow pray for my kenwood kvt-512 a 10 year old car tv DVD player 📀

Thx.

I saw on another vid someone used old license plate cut to act as 'washers'! I used this method and it worked fine.... pliable but strong. Doubling the plate would make for serious compliance!

😡 I had my radiator and oil changed at the dealership one time and when I got my car back the splash Shield was gone. And when I took it back to them to work on it again, I guess they realized they forgot to put the splash Shield back on the last time, so they end up putting it back on wrong. And now it drags like a son of a b**** and a lot of the fasteners are broken

When all 3 alarms go off at the same time: ABS fault, parking brake applied and anti-lock braking system deactivated (***Warning... because during emergency braking the tires will lock and the computer will not be able to help apply the brakes intermittently so the driver can maneuver and avoid losing control or rolling over***) experience shows us that the ABS control module (mechanical oil unit + programmable control unit with 6 solenoids) fails in Dodge vehicles (Jeep, Journey, Durango) generally when reaching 80 thousand or 90 thousand kilometers. The failure of one of the speed sensors installed in the 4 wheels also causes this, but if the scanner shows that the sensors are working, the fault is most certainly in the ABS control module (electronic part) and it must be replaced with an identical spare part according to the vehicle model (consult the vehicle manual to find the part code). The Mopar brand is very expensive but it gives the assurance that the fault can be repaired. Sometimes these parts are found second hand on e-bay, but it is not recommended. Another solution is to disassemble the control module and do a deep cleaning of the solenoids, re-solder the cable connections on the board, clean carefully but this rarely works. Many times one of the microprocessors on the ABS control board is the one that fails.

Sucks mine only went bad because of an accident (got rear ended) and this whole time I thought it was my gas cap 😂 just got my ESIM and gonna use this video later to fully replace it. Thank you

Thx

Thank you. Sitting in a Mexican restaurant and a dude comes in and wants to sell us doirs. Ours are damaged badly. Gonna try it this afternoon

can it be newspaper or just like actual printing paper

I cant believe you managed to get oscar from the office to narrate this! 👀

My door opened while I was backing up my driveway and clipped the corner of my smaller cabin Flexed the driver’s door towards the front of the truck There is difficulty opening and closing Any information I can get would help 2010 dodge ram Please I am asking for your help and opinion

Thats a Very Happy tree heres a 🌳 friend 😊

to remove sil8con more easily... use heat nlower... heat silicon and it becomes soft and can easily be removed

I kinda wanna switch a crushed door from one car and swap in a donor door from my other donor car. What about disassembling the door and stealing it's trim and window and mirror. I kinda wanna take the metal panel off and paint it to match belt putting it on.

Im going to try this in a few days...thanks alot

Add the 2.7L for 2008 Dodge Charger to the list.

You’re gonna need a new bolt anyways…. Why not just buy the new set?…. Super cheap

Appreciate the video. This convinced me not to remove the entire hose, but to mend the rusted through section and call it a job. Appreciate the penetrating lubricant tip, though Free All has worked very well for me.

The solder will fail as it is not a good solder you did. Better to have a spot weld like ones used for battery packs

Brilliant

On my x-trail I sprayed a little INOX -3 ( Aussi electrical stuff ) on the thread, instant reception. Thanks

I enjoy your videos but you never say what year the car is you're working on

The commentary and instructions were excellent, thanks!

This only works in one position, as it is installed in the car, vertically. In other positions the belt gets stuck.

This is exactly the problem I have with my antenna and am so glad I found your video! Thank you!

Beau travail de merde

Every time I do the oil change I search up this video and re drop my like every time 💯🙏🏽

I’m having trouble getting the plug out. The little bolt must be stripped on the other side. Any ideas of how to get it out? I don’t mind damaging the conductor plate, because I’m changing it. Help please!!

I'm batman

Hello "Fix Car Yourself" I saw that in your channel have some problems. For these problems your channel is not much growing. Not getting much engagement. If you can solve these problems, Your channel will get more engagement. If you can give me permission I can tell to you about these problems. Can I tell here or email? Okay?

So here i am, recently 19 but have been in the CD craze for a few years now, my 2004 jeep grand cherokee takes the CDs- but only once every blue moon actually READS and PLAYS them, most times just goin back to the radio- I've been suspecting the reader is dirty, so I'll try some form of this, if not, guess im a lil out of luck for now, loll

That metal flap at 3:28 got broken. What do i do? Can i solder a wire from it to the valve? what is it's purpose?

It works for a second

Excellent video…will definitely help a lot of people! I currently have the same issue with my MB slk230. What’s difficult for me is, my key won’t turn at all. Not sure how to remove if the key won’t budge

Thanks for your video

When you take that adapter off thats screwed in, is it supposed to pour liters out of that hole or just little pour out?

Only had one O ring when i pulled it out, so going back under today after work, i stuck my finger in but only felt the prongs, today ill put a pick in and try pull it out, if its in there hopefuly didnt wick fluid up to my module

I’ll say instead of taking the headliner out the door try taking it out the trunk that was way better when I tried and you don’t have to bend it

Going to have to pull my pan back off because I think this is where I screwed up when I put it back together I made sure it was in the groove but I didn't know it went in that little tab on the side of the valve body. Thanks for the vid

Thanks bro

Sir take a Center punch so you can have a place to start your drill at

dude, ive got a 0c 300c w tha sun roof fully loaded i had to almost brake the console off to get it out. i took the back lights out and they just shattered so no more lights😂😂was outside for an hour didnt get it out yet it got too dark to keep going but hopefully itll be easir to get the shit out tmr lol

It looks like you're turning the splined bolt that attaches the shock clevis to the control arm. You should hold the bolt still while tightening the nut.

Can you remove the upper c pillar without removing the bottom one?

un enorme cavolata , per la plastica del cruscoot cè poco da fare o quasi nulla ,,se non smontarlo e farlo stuccare e riverniciare

Worked for me. 🙏 Thx!

I didn't see any air bleeding procedure.

Your videos have helped me out in several different jobs, but I would like to say that you shouldn't need to tap your new pads into position using a hammer, they should slide with minimal force. I would take a file to your brackets where the clips rest to make sure you remove all the rust and make sure your clips fit nicely into place before inserting the new pads. Your clips looked kinda cockeyed before you tapped the pads in. Just wanted to add I've started spraying a coat of Fluid Film on my hub before putting new Rotor on, I find it not as messy as anti seize and it works great!

terrific