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That is something no one has brought up. Thank you so much for explaining. That some sneaky shit. But the front right I can't get out.

Man I'm working on mine right now. Thanks for sharing, I followed this video to take it our and now attempting to put it back. What a freaking nightmare that top bolt. My censor on my muffler right there, keeps my shift from coming down further and man. It took me over an hour if not 2 (if nit longer lol, that I'm willing to admit) to get that top one. It's so hard because that stuff behind the bolt. Never again man, if it ever God forbid goes again, I'll freaking pay for it somehow haha. I'm a framer, I can work on many vehicles and I've done mechanic work, but nothing quite like this lol. Yours looks like you have a tiny bit more room then I did lol. What a mess. This car is so bad underneath, busted boots everywhere, bad shocks, I have a crack going around where that drive shift connects to the trans? (I think that's what it is) lol. So who knows what's going to happen with that. Of course my heat doesn't work, like every other 07 nitro or liberty lol. It's not a bad car and I like it, but man I wish I didn't have so many issues. It leaks water into the doors, too. The seals need to be replaced. There is a ton of rust underneath, like it had come from up north or sat in a river for months lol. I'm a Chevy truck guy, but my starter went out in my 2009 chevy Colorado, 5.3 V8, what a beast. Love it. Bought my first Colorado brand new at 18/19 yr old in 2005. 3.8, 5 cylinder, loved it, had it for 12 years until someone totaled it on me. Anyway I couldn't afford to get it fixed at the moment. So I was building a deck for someone, I noticed they had the Nitro in the yard so I asked what they were doing with it. So we made a deal where I I took half the price off. It's a vehicle and that's all that matters lol.. I'm working on it now, I'm praying this works. I'll lyk how it goes, bud. Thanks again for posting this

Easier to pull fans out. No need to discharge a/c and got plenty of room for removal.

Thanks for your help

where’s the removal??

Q alimentacion le.llega a la espiga del alternador disculpe teacher

Top bolt on these is the worst you'll ever see. lol.. It's right up against the body and there are brake lines and/or fuel lines running right in the way and nothing can get in there hardly.. Even a wrench has no room to move.. I finally did get on it with a swivel and a ratchet-- but the bolt has no room to come out-- so you have to do it last; and as you are unscrewing it, let the starter push forward and fall out-- rather than the bolt coming backwards. I guess you could cut wrench in half and make it work.. but man, what a nightmare spot.

That top right bolt is a dam pain.

Thanks for posting a way to do it without taking out the reservoir.

Are the 2 top bolts on the side of the block or the front

What size are the 2 top bolts i need to buy them

Thank you sir

Yessir helped out. Thanks for the post

Thanks saved me

Don't show this to bubba

Thanks saving me a future headache!

I took it to the shop and paid 460 bucks and they did it lol.

Dummy is adding like ten more steps

Had to take a screenshot of that spring clip on that pulley and will go into my video toolbox.... Thank you for sharing this video ‼️

This guy is hard-core..... filming in an earthquake

Shitty camera shakes

So just to recap. Just remove one fan and the metal center piece, the coolant reservoir and stick a metal sheet or something to protect the radiator and of course have the belt loose and then remove bolts from alternator? Then work the alternator toward the driver's side and up and out by the second fan? Not sure if i missed anything when removing the alternator bolts. Are you working from above or getting under the car also? Thanks

Thank you!

Is this for an AWD?

12/7/2022....Thank you. exactly the information needed for my 87' B250.

Q

you remove wheel to do

Look like a real pain in the ass job to do plus anybody doing That type of work goin have to have alotta of patience 💪💪💪💪

I found this to be completely helpful, minimal work/effort. No need to get labor intensive. Removing the PS pump would not have made this any easier, it would only make for extra time and labor. If PS pump is in the way you are going at it wrong, take a minute, step back and size it up; you are working from below the PS pump. Fly if you can, climb if you must, lol. Super simple! 25 minutes from start to fully extracted. Reverse looks to be a breeze. Once unbolted it is free enough to easily manage disconnecting and reconnecting everything.

Too talkative, nothing of substance...

I'm a plumber so I really don't know anything about cars I did what you said I followed your video And it was very easy to get the alternator out Thank you very much

Figured it out. Had to keep raising the engine up and down until I had the holes lined up with the mount. Still barely enough room to work with to get the bolts started with two fingers unless you remove other parts which in my opinion isn't worth it. Thank you for the video

Great video. The only problem I'm running into is getting the bolts back in with the limited space. Getting them out wasn't as bad. I followed everything you did. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the video mate

Thanks for the video. My accessories were not coming on when i started my 99 GT. I was going to replace the ignition switch but after seeing this video and not having a new switch yet i decided to pull it apart and clean the contacts and put it back in the car. No more problems with the accessories not coming on.

The fucking shaft and exhaust leave no room to move the wrench.

I wanted to add some notes for people finding this. I performed this on a 2005 taurus/sable with the DOHC 3.0 motor. Everything here applied, but I did not need to loosen the subframe. I could get both bolts from the wheel well. I removed the wheel well liner. I had to loosen the belt to get the mount out/in. I supported the engine via the pan, and only needed to lift slightly. This was very helpful info.

Never knew anyone to go from above when under is so simple.

Thank you from Iraq 🇮🇶 You help me so much 🤍🧡

Hehe, I'm a little late to the game for this video, but I have a few things to share, from an old salt. The device in question is an air idle control stepper motor. ISCs actually predate fuel injection in American cars, they were standardized with TBI (throttle body injection) systems. If I recall, I saw some fitted as an idle bypass (on the baseplate) with carbureted systems. They are a true stepper motor. Note that the device has four electrical terminals. In the 80s, I had a cool device, an ISC test module. We would plug this into the stepper, and I could manually operate the motor open and closed, it would advance or retreat into the housing. Why is this important? If you have the stepper sitting unmounted, and you turn on the key, after a second or two, that spring loaded pintle will zing across the room! The computer operates the stepper motor until it is seated against the throttle body's seating bore. The computer will then retreat or retract the pintle a few steps in preparation for starting! High idle. If unmounted, it keeps on advancing the pintle until the internal screw runs out of thread, and the internal spring will fly for freedom! This process varies depending on the manufacturer of the engine control unit. I have one in my 2002 Aprilia Futura. Yes, no choke, no idle issues, dual throttle bodies, fuel injection. On a motorcycle, no less. Today, I installed a new timing belt on a Jeep, with the 2.4, for my neighbors. The belt had failed catastrophically. Well, on restart, no idle control! Camshaft timing is correct, I just set it. Prior to finalizing the install, I temporarily installed the new belt, old tensioner and rollers, to do a quick compression test. All was fantastic. Today, I fitted a new water pump, cleaned the timing covers and the aluminum bracket for the alternator and power steering, and started her up. Smooth, but not chooching at idle, exactly the same sound as in this video. I had already pulled the ISC stepper, no fault codes, but holding the throttle plate open a few degrees, all was perfect. Thought I'd have some fun. "Come over here and check out this motorcycle. It has the same idle system." Turned on the key, then off. I did not start it. "Hear that sound?" What she could hear was the stepper whirring, stopping, then whirring again. What is happening on that one, it has a Sagem ECU, is the stepper closes, the ECU senses this, then it opens the ISC for the next start. On the Jeep? Absolute silence. Simple fix. The stepper is dead on the Jeep. I might have killed it, being the last one to touch it. Mechanic's cooties, I explained. When the timing belt died, they tried repeatedly to restart it, and there were really nasty fumes and pops coming from the intake snorkel. This pressure was hammering the ISC and the bore was nasty with fresh carbon. I sprayed Berryman's B12 through the bore to clear it on reassembly, and commented that this may have an unintended consequence, if I loosen carbon in that bore, the ISC can jam. Yes, it did. With that manual tool I had decades ago, I could remove the pintle and clean it properly. Today, you can buy a handful of ISCs for what it costs.

That top bolt on starter is a pain no one shows how they did it I wonder y

I don't have. A key and the old ignition switch won't come out and I can't release the old ignition I have no key to the car but I have a new ignition switch with the key! Please help ASAP

I'm trying to remove the two rear heaters and bypass them on a 1989 B-350 van. That's 4 coolant hoses I have to track down.. Also considering removing all the air conditioning junk just to free up some space in there. I don't think it even works.

Muy importante 👍👍

That's genius I have a new trick now seriously never thought of the spring clip but I'm using this from now on

Was this for the hi pressure or return line? Looks like fun…

Thanks man

About to tackle this job on my flex … looks fun 🙄

Thanks for wasting 7 minutes of my time that I'll never get back, this was absolutely ridiculous. There is a procedure that most mechanics like myself use to remove this particular mount and it involves almost nothing of what you did. This was like watching a retard how to figure out which medication he needs to take next

Anyone know if this applies also to a 1984 Dodge B150 van with 318 and AC? Got a leaky heater core.