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People seriously under estimate the importance of engine oil changes. I'm an old diesel mechanic and I've seen them all. My old father was a 3000 mile man for cars of that period. I myself am a 5000 mile oil change man. 6000 miles or 10,000 km is enough for modern motors with modern oils. Tractors and trucks are changed at every 100 hours of higher RPM operations. Filters are changed at every oil change. Oil and filters are very cheap compared to an engine overhaul.

28 years on my '97 VW golf; I've never experienced an alternator problem...

Thank you thank you thank you for being you great information especially if you are a person who loves to keep maintenance right up the top end so the vehicle can operate properly. We know about temperature underneath the bonnet. When the stretches timing goes out it can be corrected through the computer system, however That slap and early morning start with a loose train is what they call a death battle. I have a very rare B.M.W that it seems B.M.W want back as they only made 50 of them to race the 1998 anniversary of B.M.W. Great engineering past they are a fabulous motor vehicle , however it’s best that you read the manual and understand what you’re doing as an automotive electrical and mechanical engineer. I am still learning and I passed every exam that I have in control of the military. They really train you well thank you for being you.

My 1995 VW T4 bus has his first alternater. Changing parts like ball bearings may work. But often todays spare parts are not quality wise like original parts. Sometimes it is better to not touch a still running system.

My Valeo alternator finally died after 19 years. Instead of throwing it away, i installed a new set of brushes and it works like new 😃👍 (The brushes were not even original, they are random brushes i found at a store and had to sand them down to the size of the originals)

I added an MSD ignition to my 1967 camaro, it over heated my wiring, i added a 100/150 amp alternator problem solved.

The car’s electric fuel pump works harder the less in the tank, running to 1/4 a tank and under constantly will wear out your expensive fuel pump!

Thousands of Toyota mechanics know almost all Toyota timing chained engines since 1975 have been able to go 500,000 - 1,000,000 miles without rattling or causing other trouble. This guy with his European accent must only be familiar with planned obsolesence European cars.

It costs the same to remove an alternator that you rebuild as it does one you replace. Then there is a labor cost for rebuilding an old alternator, assuming you can get the replacement parts. And there is labor involved in disassembling an alternator and finding the internal issues. Most of the time it is a better investment to replace the alternator if you are not rebuilding it yourself. That being said, we’ve encountered problems with remanufactured alternators. Much better to replace with new. Furthermore, throwing an alternator at a problem is the exception, not the rule. Yes, alternators get misdiagnosed by people, but these people are typically tow truck guys, parts store guys, and some mobile mechanics. I can’t speak to dealerships as I’ve never worked at one. I can say that the independent shops I know, the legit ones, not people working solo out of their personal garage, do not do this. They do proper diag and inspection of wires and connections.

And use the manufacturers fluid not aftermarket brands 'one size fits all' from the store.

The savings when it’s cold out don’t come from the fuels volume. At least not measurably. The only measurable difference is you WILL lose LESS vapors when filling your tank when it’s cold. The hiss is much more aggressive when opening the cap on a hot day than cold. To further increase your savings, fill up and run the tank to like 1/4 before refilling. People only put in 1/4-1/2 a tank and lose twice as much fuel in vapors than if they just did one big fill. In my experience, this is the only substantial factor in cold refueling yielding better economy.

The timing chain broke on my fathers Ford Focus Mk2.5 1.8TDCi at 290000 km. The car had regular manteinance with OEM parts.

Just sold 1993 opal Corsa 'b' with 9,000,000 kilometres on the clock, first timing belt changed at 8,000,000.....my new wife had it from new and never thought to change the belt, I changed it immediately that I found out, no problems though

petrol tanks are under ground with near constant temperature like a wine cellar so it does not matter on time of day, except maybe seasonal then only buy gas in winter

volume corrected by pump

First we get rocket then we get moose and squirrel

Don't skimp on oil changes. Don't rev the nuts off your engine, especially before it is hot.

So pushing your car the last 50 meters before filling up will save more gas in the long run. 😊

They actually rarely fail

I have a 2012 Kia sorento, 4 cylinder diesel 2.2L. And the engine has 2 timing chains, both of which has never been replaced in it's entire life. The engine has done 674,000 KM and still original and never replaced. The oil change is done at 5000 KM. Although prior to 400,000 KM, i was doing the oil change at 10,000 KM intervals. The engine is still running strong. So i don't always agree with these videos that timing chains need to be replaced.

My 94 Trans Am I bought new has the original alternator.....338.000 miles seems to be just fine!

#Denso "hairpin" Style alternators are the best of the best !! 🤘🏽🤘🏽💪💪

I agree that most alternator issues are repairable and the most common issue is the built-in voltage regulator, but you'll rarely, or never find a mechanic who is willing to do the repair. My city has several auto electric shops that do specialize in alternator repairs, with one in particular that I do trust. Unfortunately, the repair usually involves removing the alternator myself and taking it to the shop for repair. That repair can often take three to five days from a busy shop. Then you carry the alternator home to re-install into your vehicle. If you don't have a second vehicle, this is a real inconvenience, so most people decide to buy a new or rebuilt alternator instead of following the repair route.

Not fixing leaks near the alternator will kill it too. Either through oil migration into the unit or from leaks directly above into the unit.

Nothing new...the same issue since '50 ...

When our 2000 year model Dodge Grand Caravan hit 120,000 miles (it was 22 years old at the time) I replaced my alternator as a matter of course. That way I could do the job at a convenient time and place (my driveway, when I was ready) rather than having to have my car towed from the side of the road, or some shopping center parking lot) I upped the size from the 90 amp original to a 130 amp replacement to use w/ an Inverter just in case I need it during a power outage. I keep the original alternator aboard the van as a spare, if the new one fails on the road somewhere. Thanks for the tips.

I took my van in to my mates garage and I thought it was a belt, but my mate told me don’t bother that chain will last long than the whole van will, just service with good oil, and he was right it’s still going strong ,,he’s a good lad and a good mate

A symptom I had on a 75,000 mile Subaru Forester was weird. For a couple of months whenever I drove over a rough part of a road the dashboard would be triggered with several trouble lights. I would clear them with my installed Scan Gauge unit. This happened multiple times. Then one day all of the lights would come on and I couldn't clear them, and had to get home in limp mode. After a couple of weeks of chasing codes and sensors I noticed the scanner said 11.2 volts. So I replaced a two-year-old premium battery. No trouble codes but still low voltage. Replacing the alternator was the solution. You get "no communication" messages on the CAN-Bus system if the voltage is low. Duh. I felt like the dummy who wonders why his laptop is acting funny because its battery is low and isn't plugged in : -) My guess is that the alternator was failing on rough roads because the brushes were bad enough to respond to jiggles.

Just a couple days ago, a Duralast was a Didnotlast for 30 minutes. I ended up getting a Denso.😂😂😂

I have a Kia Stinger 2020 GT2 and I usually get an alert on my dashboard that says battery draining due to external device and I've taken it to multiple workshop nobody seems to be able to find the root cause of the problem because if the car is parked for 2/3 days without been driven it kills the battery totally and I will have to jump start the car so far I've had to replace my battery twice does any one have a similar issue or knows exactly could be the problem? I will appreciate any suggestions or opinions at this point.. Thanks!

Bad ground

it is usually the 'diode' causing problems in the alternator. so Just check it then replace this part. its very cheap.

I put a charger on the battery in fall and summer. It seems the batteries don't get fully charged normally.

Do cars with automatic stall/start need more expensive batteries than cars without the nuisance feature?

Also,especially during winter or in short trip service where the engine accumulates a lot of time while not fully warmed up the oil tends to accumulate condensed water and unburned fuel residues.

What! You are so off base with this video. If you actually did research alternator failure is NOT a problem. Although I am not quite sure where you live and what vehicles you are referencing. Also, your criticism of dealership technicians is wrong. Many years ago, due to customer demand for quick turnaround, independent and Dealerships have gone from repairing components to simply replacing them. With that said, you are misleading anyone without technical knowledge in the automotive field. BTY I have over 45 years in the automotive field. The last 21 years as the Technical Training Manager with one of the leading automobile manufacturers.

My car packed up, said it was alternator turns out it was voltage regulator cost few quid to fix instead of hundreds

Truman Capote - alternator expert

I think one of the most common faults with an alternator is the free-running pulley.

They become hot when i drive my car??

"...if you just use common sense...." at 2:00. What's that? There's certainly none around here.....

good video

Aggressive driving bad for CVT. Babying the car, driving slowly also bad for CVT. Holyshit, what do i do?

When the alternator went on my MR2, I found that you could buy a set of brushes for it from Toyota. So first time, I did this. Second time it went, I found a new old stock replacement alternator for £99 so I went with that. I still have the old one if I fancy changing the brushes again but I would guess after 180k miles that the bearings may not be as good as new!

The good thing about a timing chain is that it will be noisy for some time before it fails, so you know it needs attention before it fails.

My alternator failed on 15 year VW Corrado. Stranded side of road, turned out to be one of the brushes out of position,quick wiggle and off I went again.

When I rebuild engines I always use a new timing chain, sprockets and tensioner. After 200k they usually have wear on the sprockets and have stretched a bit. They prob would work but for the cost it’s best to replace.

I have read spilling oil on it could damage it also

The better idea is don't buy a vehicle with a CVT transmission. Nissan/Subaru went big into cheap Jatco CVT transmissions and as those transmissions broke Nissan/Subaru had an attitude you bought it your problem. Smart consumers who do a bit of research realize Nissan/Subaru vehicles are not reliable and they don't buy them. Results especially for Nissan sales are tanking. The only CVT transmissions that seem to be reliable are Toyota. A smart move by Mazda was they decided to stop using Jatco transmissions and developed their own in-house traditional geared transmissions. Mazda does not use CVT transmissions.

simple comment...how is it the old engines from the 70s did not have timing chain issues?