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Thank you for the support hope there is something in here you can use.

Thank you for the feedback. It was awhile back so the barand may be wrong, but I was using flat balck or satin. Probably rustoleum.

Thank you! Great work!

I am glad you found it also. I have spent quite a bit of time putting on topics I hope others find useful. Will be gad to get your feedback.

Thank you for asking. I used a mineral oil finish for this dish. For all of my dishes I use a mineral oil or natural finish of mineral oil and beeswax. Most times these days I use a product called Bumblechutes. Here is a link to their products: www.bumblechutes.com/?ref=uelhhmhv 10% Discount Code: ROBSANDSTROM Note it is an affiliate link so I get a small commission and you get a 10% discount if you use this link and the discount code.

Thanks for the comment. This was just a short video, not really instructional. If you want to see the full process and the results you should watch my instructional video on debarking slabs for a river carcuterie serving tray. I actually have. full instructional series that starts with this process. You can find that video at the following link: ruclips.net/video/4BAJnpGk98Y/видео.html

Yes there is I go through making the dripstock and pouring the epoxy in Part 1. See Use vCarve to Make an Epoxy and Cherry Heart Bowl Part 1 - "The Dripstock" - Corbin Dunn Design ruclips.net/video/KRgeZTI7Z-s/видео.html. Have fun making the bowl

Thank you Kimberly for commenting.

thank you for the comment and support

Brooks thank you for commenting and letting me know it was helpful.

I don't know how I missed your updated video. Thanks again for sharing!!

@@AndyV268 thank you for watching and taking time to comment.

Thank you for your continued support Mark

Thank you for your understanding and continued support.

I hear what you are saying. I thought I previously answered this comment so sorry for the dealy. This was the 6th pass so it had already passed over this spot previously. As such I know the CNC was only taking off 2 mm or less. I still don't think a machine as big as the swift should have bogged down on a 2 mm (~0.08") pass. I was using a 2.5" surfacing bit and may have stepped over more aggressively than normal also. In watching the performance of the CNC more over the rest of the job, I noticed there were certain points in the slab that seemed harder for the CNC to deal with, mostly know areas and I may not have been as sensitive to this as a I should have. This was my largest (physically) project and there was lots of learning for both Shane and I.

@@misterx426 i am using vectorizer.ai these days.

Well said! There is no doubt about that. Catching up with comments and thought I previously replied.

Thank you for taking time to comment. We each have our own thoughts about what wood working is and what it isn't and are entitled to them. I love the ability to create beautiful things that my lack of physical dexterity, knowledge, and skills would otherwise prevent me from doing. I am sure people back in the day didn't think using a router, tablesaw, or other power tool was woodworking either but people have come a long way since then. My wish for you is that you enjoy your woodworking journey, in whatever way brings you pleasure.

@@CraftyJans_LLC thanks for commenting Kurt

@@darrylp8998 understand that. Trying to keep things real.

Glad you found this helpful. that is my goal with this channel.

Hear you brother.

Isn't that the truth. In my career as a nuclear power professional my beavior would not be tolerated. The requirement was clean as you go. But alas I have fallen to lazier ways these days. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I think many people have the same challenge. Its more fun to make than it is to clean.

Thank you for letting me know Russ. I may have even better tips when you're ready and we can talk. I have learned other tips and trick since that time.

👊👊🙌🙌

That would be kind of a cool invention. With that said if we zero off the bottom minor differences won't matter - unless you have your rapid "z" closer than most people have it. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

@@RobSandstromDesigns ill be giving it a few shots this upcoming weekend hopefully. im making the table for the cnc and ill start practicing all this stuff

@@eladsinay6914 wishing you the very best. I find that at times I let myself get more intimidated than was needed. But, then I don't realize that until after I am complete. Reach out if you need any insights or additional help.

@@RobSandstromDesigns thank you so so much . i really appreciate it

Thank you so much. My main goal for my RUclips channel is to learn new things, share them with others (so they can benefit from what I learn) and inspire others to make things for themselves and stretch themselves

I am open to all suggestions. I was mostly looking for power tools because I don’t have much hand strength. But now you have me thinking. I have a maker friend who does hand carving. I will reach out and ask him how I might be able to use them.

Kimberly good recommendation for the smaller cracks. I have a few I can use for smaller areas. Thank you for the ideas and commenting.

Brooks you’re dead on with the brushes. I have some of those in my arsenal. But, need to get some skinnier/longer ones to fit in the hole.

Thank you for commenting

Thank you for commenting Kimberly.

Where I have seen the use of smaller bits is with wood inlays were tear out could happen pretty easy. Not usually on surfacing epoxy or normal flattening. Need to think on that.

Thank you for watching and sharing your comment. I keep this in mind - Just keep enjoying the maker journey and keep learning so we can make informed choices.

I have the same question…. When I surface, I make a rectangle the same size as the project, then do a negative offset the same size as my bit. I let the overlap for the bit handle the overlap.

Same. His way is overthinking it.

Thank you for watching and sharing your thoughts. Truth is It can be done with a pocket toolpath . As long as you ensure box is large enough to allow bit to change directions off the wood surface which means you use a raster tool path. I do it with profile toolpath after watching another RUclips person several years ago surfacing his spoiler board finding the profile path was quicker. That’s why I do it this way, but the beauty is there is multiple ways to accomplish the same task. I was sharing how I do it, others can use what works for them. I keep this in mind - Just keep enjoying the maker journey and keep learning so we can make informed choices.

Thank you for watching and sharing your thoughts. Truth is It can be done with a pocket toolpath . As long as you ensure box is large enough to allow bit to change directions off the wood surface which means you use a raster tool path. I do it with profile toolpath after watching another RUclips person several years ago surfacing his spoiler board finding the profile path was quicker. That’s why I do it this way, but the beauty is there is multiple ways to accomplish the same task. I was sharing how I do it, others can use what works for them. I keep this in mind - Just keep enjoying the maker journey and keep learning so we can make informed choices.

Thank you for watching and sharing your thoughts. Truth is It can be done with a pocket toolpath . And you are likely correct I am overthinking but it wouldn’t be the first time I have done that.😂😂😂 As long as you ensure box is large enough to allow bit to change directions off the wood surface which means you use a raster tool path. I do it with profile toolpath after watching another RUclips person several years ago surfacing his spoiler board finding the profile path was quicker. That’s why I do it this way, but the beauty is there is multiple ways to accomplish the same task. I was sharing how I do it, others can use what works for them. I keep this in mind - Just keep enjoying the maker journey and keep learning so we can make informed choices.

Thank you for taking the time to comment. All those interactions help get the video in front of more people. Appreciate you taking the time to do this. I am also glad you found the information helpful.

Short answer, put in what you measure with your calipers. In fact, I prefer to use the variable "z" or"t" in my cut of depth field. Which will read what you put in as your material thickness. Since Vectric is reading from the spoiler bed, it will go to "0" as measured when you set Z zero so need to try and compensate for any small deviation is caliper measurement.

You have been doing it so you know your method works. There is more than "one way to skin a cat" is the old saying. Kind of crude now that I think of it, but I think we understand. The beauty of using the CNC and craft is there can be multiple. ways to accomplish what we want. I like to prepare an alternative and then let people choose what way they want to move forward. Thank you for watching and taking time to comment - that helps my channel.

Thank you for the comment and I am glad you found it helpful. That is the main purpose for why I make my videos - so always good to hear when people find it helpful.

For sure. The swirl adds a bit of pizazz.

Thanks Kevin. I hope the real time helps with perspective.

Thak you Dan. Hope you can put it to use.

Hope it helps with your projects. Thank for taking the time to comment.

Thank you my granddaughters and other clients that have bought them enjoy them. I really need to get the files up on my website. Not good at getting things posted on my website. Guess that is because in my case making money from this stuff is secondary to having fun with it.

Thank you for leaving a comment and I am really glad you found it useful. If you're getting ready to tram I wish you success and patience. I found I made it more intimidating than it actually was. I put it off way longer than I shoul have.

I’ve trammed a few times but not to this degree, as luck would have it the back of my spoilboard is a bit low for some reason… needs resurfacing, so no time like the present to tram as well!