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Punch is all the way up, 17t pinion and proline mx28 make the 3s typhon a seriously fun stunt buggy.

Here's an Amazon link to the tires used in this video. a.co/d/hGRrsys

Not a fan of trash that causes my electronics to overheat. Then again, you think you're fixing a problem that has already been resolved with that horrible advice . They also make aluminum driveshafts for a reason. But your big brain can't comprehend such a simple concept 😆

It's hilarious when people make up false allegations. Think what you want, you've clearly got you mind made up. You probably wrote something that RUclips itself flagged and not me but are too retarded to understand that.

Lol I doubt it

The video wasn't titled this morning and it was playing live so yea bud think before u speak

And it was 4am just woke up to take a dump and get ready for work 🤣

That was surely someone else videos, cause I don't do live videos and the last video I posted was 4 days ago. You're over here crying about somebody else deleting your comments on their video 😆 😆 What a retard! 😆 😆

If you don't mind the extra heat, yeah you can run one of those. I don't like the extra heat caused by trapping the air, so the nice people over at RCAWD were kind enough to send me a shaft, to solve the problem and allow my electronics to breathe fresh air as they were intended to do. The best part of this hobby is that you can play with your toy as you like. You may not like my way of doing it, but this ain't your toy, making any disapproval you may have: irrelevant.

My favorite way to drive them!

Much appreciated

Thanks. The 6s backflip tires are a definite improvement. Car doesn't want to traction roll during hard cornering like the stocks did. Probably going to stick with these tires for a while.

Yeah it's amazing, this stock esc is probably the best esc offered on any 6s rtr car.

Yeah I think a set of extenders are going to be coming soon. I'm going to keep running these tires as the stock ones kept folding and kept making the car traction roll.

What size extenders did ya run?

Wait till you learn that they are both legitimately made in the same in the same factory. Both are variants of the original hobbywing 8bl150 esc with different programming parameters.

Here's the link www.basherbodies.com/product/7170799/funnycar

@@captaincouldverc Thanks 👍🏽

Both cars are running on 6s. The shogun has a hobbywing 8bl150g2/2000kv combo 16t pinion.

I hope you have loads of fun! I couldn't take mine out last weekend. We had a nasty little heatwave hit us here in California. Should be able to get back out this weekend.

Yeah my kagama gearing is tricky cause I have that upgraded 46t spur and not the stock 52t spur. So basically it's like having 21t pinion on the 1650kv motor. The shogun I was cautious about gearing cause I'm uncertain about that quicrun combo. But it seems to be doing rather well even with the stock esc fan. Will be changing that fan soon anyways, just for added protection.

@@captaincouldverc yeah im running the 8bl150 g2 quickrun with kuron motor on Asuga and when I did run it on a 17t pinion, had no overheating at all,. Yeah that kagama of yours sure goes 😁

Yeah it does! The Kagamar is going so fast now I see why people complain about the tires. If watch it again, EVERY time the kagama rolled, was because of the tire sidewalls folding and the wheel biting the dirt. Might be changing out to a set of used 6s backflips. If they work well, I'll get a new set for it soon.

Wow is your Kagama running mainly 6s with that 15t Do it thermo mad

Yeah 6s only. It's still running the stock Torox185 esc, and the 46t spur gear.

You've got to remove the diffs from the car, then remove the crowns and spur from the diff cases. Once removed you'll see where the fluid goes. I run 50k/1million/30k in my corally diffs.

I can try to help but first I need to know what truck you're talking about, is it happening more in the front or the back? Different cars tend to have different solutions and reasons.

@@captaincouldverc both front and back are doing it the same. 1 set is spring steel and other is #45 . Arrma fireteam all metal upgrades max6 combo. Metal a arms and huge shocks from 1/6 scale

Ohh that's a really super heavy combo and you may not win the battle of the arrma diffs and dogs. I stopped running Arrma products due to their habit of always breaking. But I'll try to help you anyways. With those big of shocks, I suspect your droop screw aren't set properly. Got it all jacked up and lifted. Arrma cars don't like their arms to over extend. Causes binding in the dogbones and cups. The binding beats the pin. The pin stretches the holes and the pins no longer stay put well. If you do have the droop properly set, seeing how you said its aftermarket steel, I would suggest going with m2c ones. Some other companies really are dishonest about the quality. M2c is top-notch.

@@captaincouldverc i did have it all jacked up 😉 have lowered it a bit but will do more. Thanks for the confirmation. That sucks but gotta keep from breaking stuff. I thought that might be it so i brought droop screws down some (lowered it) looks like i need to do more. I have all the parts to upgrade the arrma shocks. Guess I'll go back to those. These huge gpm shocks are awesome and bulletproof but if causing other problems, oh well ☹️ from a dbxl i think 🤯🤣 7mm shafts 🤯 bought 2 sets too. Like $340 in shocks. I have some toolsteel outdrive cups too which this is causing wear in. I saw other people suggesting put heat shrink on outdrive cup to keep pin in there which might help some but all that force would push through I'm sure. Pushing big time power in this beast. Like #30+ and 2 3s 10000mah 120c batts. Capable of 1200 amps. Have seen about 450a max in data logs but that was just screwing around in the yard. Never even opened it up. 18-52 main gears and helical (hot racing) in diffs. I'll take it down a notch 😉 just got jconcepts magmas today too 😁🤯

@redreefbud Also if you're running lockers or ultra thick diff fluids, I would unlock or thin the diff fluid. Too thick of fluid won't let the diffs do their job and will result in extra abuse on the dogbones. The diffs need to be allowed to slip a little to absorb abrubt on/off throttle impacts. Limiting their abuse is the key to making them last longer.

Definitely seems to be a great combo.

It sure does leave a majestic dust trail.

The mt8 is truly the best bargain basher out there! Like any rc car, it needs a few rather small and inexpensive parts. But luckily all the parts we need are out there from other manufacturers. I love sending my mt8 of jumps! Now that I've got it set up it rarely breaks. This test was great for showcasing the different upper link options and how they compare. I would get a second mt8, but I've already done everything I can to this car. I've helped head the charge for that rc platform for the past 2+years, and now it's up to ya'll to carry on that cars legacy. Looking forward to seeing what all you folks do for the next chapter in the Rival MT8 saga.

I bet yours an absolute beast! Unfortunately at this time I cannot afford the max6 esc to go with this motor nor can I afford a new motor. I had the motor laying around from an old project and needed a motor. I would totally do a max6 in this rig if I could afford one at this time.

@@captaincouldverc hey man you gotta do what you gotta do! Them torox take a beating though she should be able to handle it for a while, put a good fan on her and rip it! Could also put a bigger fan on the torox, should be the same dimensions as a max8 esc

@tommygunnz450 Yeah sir, I've got an upgraded highspeed fan on it with the bec turned up to 7.4v already. So far, the temps feel good to the touch. Next outing with it, I'll have my temp gun with me to properly show the temperature of the esc. But yeah the esc is handling it better than I thought it would.

Yeah, it surely doesn't need the extra power..... But I wanted it 😆

Great question! I use an m3x15 CAPHEAD screw. The cap head version will give you a larger Allen key size allowing you to tighten it more without the worry of stripping it so easily.

Thanks

🚀 👨‍🚀 💥 🚀 😆

Thanks for stopping by and checking out my little channel.

That's awesome! Thanks supporting the homie! I got upgraded lower hingepins when you need a set of those. I'm the only one making them out of a very specific material.

Heck yeah you should! I almost forgot how fun these older Corally cars are.

@@captaincouldverc lol I hear ya!

Your very welcome. I'm happy you found this useful. Stay blessed my friend.

🎯 😆 🤣 😆

My biggest disappointment with the Kagamar is the fact it didn't come with the HD wheeliebar/ wingmount. It really should've came with it. Needs slight modification to fit, just a trim one tab and drilling a few holes. But it fixed the wing stanchion failure problem and adds more structure to the rear bulkhead, tieing everything together for extra strength. The GLRC 3d printed wingmount I'm still testing the v2. So I'm not giving out my final opinion on that one yet. Shock standoffs are a bit disappointing, but they're not horrible. To a bunch of crashes to break one, but they are a weak point. And it needs 4 longer screws going up from the chassis into the bulkheads to help keep the diff access door secured so diffs don't get stripped. If you contact me on Facebook, I'll send you diagram showing you what screws in talking about. Servo saver came too tight from the factory causing premature servo failure. After adjusting saver to looking, the servo saver nut seemed to back off, some blue locktite cured that. Other than that, it's damn near perfect.

That's unfortunate about your senton. Id recommend take apart the power module and inspect the gears. Could be multiple things. Make sure the teeth are good. Be sure the pinion is secure to the motor shaft, they're know come loose. Check to see if the motor mounting plate is bent. Thanks for the sub buddy!

@@captaincouldverc Ok I took the motor out last night it rolls and sounds good with out it

I'll be completely honest, I don't have much on road experience. But if I was to start trying road racing, I would start with GRP tires. I've seen alot good stuff with products.

Thanks I'll check them out !! )

@woodywoodbridge7405 Your welcome buddy and thanks for the sub

Thank you! I'll come check it out.

@@captaincouldverc thanks dude! ;).

No worries. In all fairness, that chassis was 3 years old. I'm surprised it didn't break sooner. I'll get her a new chassis coming soon and she'll be rip ready in no time.

@@captaincouldverc 👍 mines taking some serious abuse and lived and once it just landed straight down on the wheelie bar from about a ft n a half and snapped right there where yours seems too have. Everything has a breaking point. Your Mt8 is looking like a real contender these days. 👍

Be sure to watch till the end. My mt10 ended up in pieces too 😆

Awesome you found this info useful for your mt8. If you have Facebook, I help run Team Associated Rival mt8 page. Lots of valuable mt8 info there with lots of helpful tips. Also if you want upgraded hingepins or carbon fiber center braces, you can hit me on Facebook. Link in the description.

Thanks buddy

The life of a misfit toy enthusiast 😆

@@captaincouldverc love it dude!!!

Thanks buddy

Belch them demons out bruva! If you ever need a chat buddy, my FB link is in the description. You're always welcome to hit me up man.

🤘🤘🤘 Yeah buddy