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@@BMPTuning what parts do I need to update/upgrade on a 2012 MK6 to keep it good as new for me, who drives nearly double the yearly average? What do I do before performance modding it to be built to manage another 100-200hp in the future RELIABILITY? What mods should I avoid for a daily car build? what stage 2/3 clutch would you recommend? I need to talk a shops ear off... where abouts are you located?

@@jacksong5896 We are located in Dallas Texas! Stop in anytime! Make sure you change all filters and fluids regularly, with approved parts. Timing parts, water pump, and replacing plastic coolant housings/flanges can also be good preventative maintenance! Certain engines may have specific parts that can fail, so you'll have to look into those specifically, but overall the Mk6 platform is reliable, so you shouldn't worry too much! For a clutch, we typically run Southbend in our cars, however most of the major brands are safe to choose from! There aren't many mods that can't be used on the roads - but we would shy away from making things too stiff, or maintenance heavy. Examples of this would be parts like solid spherical bushings, solid engine mounts, etc. Tailor the car to how you will be driving it! Sometimes we overestimate how aggressive we are willing to drive the car!

@@BMPTuning thanks for your time and input much appreciated. wish y'all were localed closer to me without a doubt.

@@BMPTuning Id hope I'm not underestimating how rough if not me the roads are on her. I WANT HER BULLET PROOF to around 350-400hp reliability for a daily with a lead footed driver. I've looked at countless different builds leaving me with quite the part list in stages. Wondering if I'm missing anything that's worth doing while apart, nice to have upgraded before it has the chance to break.and stage 1/2 build? As well as any part, company/seller recommendations . -Upgrades/ preventative fixes •waste gate shake fix clip .re engineered timing chain .forged coolant pipes (blue) .catch can .new vacuum hoses (blue) [I saw a perfectly managered engine bay on one of them and I want to replicate it] .metal upgraded intake manifold .metal upgraded water pump -mod Install set #1 •3" Intake •GFB DV+ valve •Turbo muf delete •Inter cooler •3"-3.5" catless Dpipe •ECS intake lever •heat shielding •Rear sway bar .shop tune -new front headlights - windshield reservoir Replacement De-Badge grille no body work needed -would an oil cooler be more helpful than a potential headache? I've heard problems about the PCV system but not what part fails or what to fix. with what you mentioned for suspension. I got city road horrors and perfectly kept mountain roads to drive. I want to find an in-between sport and improved comfort, once I do the shocks. Will I be fine with just getting "performance" disk/pads without a full needing new sporty calibers for sharp brakes at speed?do Any suggestions for those? what is your mechanics hourly charge?I'm rarely in Dallas but who knows not to far of a drive and not the worst car to road trip to me at least.

Absolutely, let us know when you're ready!!

here to help! let us know which system you decide on!

Or alignment etc

You shouldn't need to do any alignments or calibration after these pads and rotors - however there may be a brake service interval that you may want to reset in the cars computer! Unfortunately, we've sold this car, so I can't go check!

The turn signals work on this one!

typically a cat-back exhaust doesn't replace any emissions related components (like this one), however it can vary so check your local laws! certain places don't allow you to modify the exhaust at all!

Soon! We've got parts waiting!

Yes, this customer did!

If you have a non-lighting package golf/GTI (halogen headlights), these will be a direct plug and play! The LEDs are built into the projector - so there are no bulbs to install, similar to OEM LEDs! They are also now all ceramic coated - which will help protect the clear coat and keep them clean! If you have any questions regarding any of our lights, shoot us an email at sales@bmptuning.com, and we'd be happy to answer them!

and the turbo noises

Neuspeed intake and Forge BOV!

You won't be disappointed! If you need just a tad more sound after you install it, it's just all the more reason to get a downpipe and go after more power! Or convert the exhaust to track!

@@BMPTuning got any thoughts on the next mod from there? I was looking at a new intake, but want most of the noise coming from the exhaust. APRs carbon fiber intake looked pretty good to me. thoughts / suggestions? also are new inlet pipes worth it? haha i know thats a lot of questions, but im swimming with all the info as I enter this new space of modding

@@rmheat22 Intake on these GTIs is a great idea! Most of us here love a loud intake and turbo noise, so any of the open intakes like APR, or MST will be great! An inlet will do more than an intake will performance-wise, but both of these things will be more for noise initially, the performance benefits aren't really there until you tune, as the stock air box does a great job already! Depending on your car, we highly recommend first doing the most noticeable mods! For manuals specifically, a short shifter can make a huge difference. On these GTIs in particular, we recommend a rear sway bar, and dogbone inserts! The rear sway bar will be extremely noticeable in turns, while the inserts will help put the power to the ground from a dig, and prevent wheel hop! An intercooler is generally a good idea as well, especially if you live where it is warmer most of the year! We are happy to help anytime, feel free to call us, or shoot us an email at sales@bmptuning.com, and we'd love to dive in further and help you pick the right setup! We have TONS of experience with these!

@rmheat22 What decided your decision? The track sounds throatier but Touring has the anti drone technology, don't know how valid that question is, considering mine is mostly a Sunday,Fun day car.

@BMPTuning I read AM downpipes can cause drivability, emissions and CEL issues.

Yes it is! We installed 10mm spacers in the front, 15 in the rear for this customer

On this particular exhaust, I believe we mounted it to the car (on the heat shield), but left it plugged in, so there were no issues!

You got this!!

Yes it was! Shortly after this, we began working with multiple tuners before tunes were officially released - so the JB4 was removed and the car was flashed, we never got around to dialing it in!

Sounds great! Similar to OEM, but will depend on your exhaust - ours is LOUD!

There are kits available, but they are twice the cost! There is a lot more work involved to get the rear fog light working on these compared to the Mk7! I wish there was an easier way - we will certainly add the option if we can in the future!

Source?

@@BMPTuning your own video. Check out any other Supra Manual dyno. All of them are very close to 400 whp stock. You are struggling to get there WITH the jb4. Just look at the logs, plenty of throttle closures. Several people has reported similar issues in the supramkv forums. JB4 works for the auto though.

@@BMPTuning Hey just wanted to clarify, I am not trying to be an ass here or anything. I've seen a lot of throttle closures with JB4 and catless downpipes.

​@@0Camus0 these dyno videos aren't meant for you to get an exact hp number - more of a quick before/after. The last log shows stock vs our best JB4 run. It's not catless, I'm sure if we ran the car on a different dyno, it would spit out the same numbers the rest of the manual supras would! Not a clue about throttle closures - though we've installed these on many makes/models without any major issues. We'll have to look into it!

@@BMPTuning Would be good to see jb4 vs stock. I did use jb4 on a manual G82, and it was causing throttle closures in the entire mid range. Not sure what's different from the auto that causes this.

forever baby Porsche

Also is the car in the video tuned and running higher boost pressure than stock?

Stock turbo whistle is minimum - but we've been able to hear it on occasion! This car in the video is tuned! The car now has a Garrett Powermax installed and the turbo whistle is much louder!

What do you mean?

As long as the car is equipped with halogens from the factory, which will utilize a 10-pin plug, these should have no issues! They are designed for NA market vehicles (US specifically), so compatibility outside of our market is uncertain, but we've sold these worldwide and not had any issues like that so far!

That is a tool we should invest in!

A resonator would help, yes! Milltek has their own offerings, but it's also popular to install a Vibrant Ultra Quiet on these cars to help with that!

@@BMPTuning what’s the vibrant ultra quiet

@@lootNscoot1 here is a link to their site! We don't currently have them listed on ours, but we are happy to help get you set up with one, just shoot us an email! vibrantperformance.com/ultra-quiet-resonators-v1249/

it's a lot more raw, that's for sure!

haha we've heard that before!

Condensation in the exhaust is pretty normal! These EA888 have come a long way, we rarely see issues like that on the new engines! You'll be ok <3

In the US they are rated for 315 - also important to remember that all Dyno's read different, which is why the real data here is comparing our stock curve to the tune!

They are working on it as fast as they can! You'll be glad they took their time, both 034 and Unitronic are some of the best in the game!

You answered your own question - racing! A stiffer dogbone mount will be beneficial for just about any type of motorsport activity these cars may be involved in - not just the dragstrip. If you can't afford Unitronics offerings, happy to help find a cheaper alternative! 034 Motorsport makes a great insert setup for the stock arm/bushing!

same !! <3 - Ant

19x8.5 et45 with 235/35!

Shoot us a message via email, sales@bmptuning.com, and our team would be happy to take a look!

Mounts are amazing, you will have increased NVH though, but BFI is amazing and you wont be disappointed - I dont get much rattling on Stage 2 mounts along with the JXB drive shaft carrier, but, it is def. "more" than stock!

Hey! This would be something you'd want to spec to your vehicle and for what you are using it for! We haven't installed these on an M2 yet, and we set up our M3 for light street use! We haven't gotten the chance to take it to the track and dial them in!

Glad we could help! Ryan has many years of experience climbing all over engine bays lol

The smoke is from the exhaust itself - often you'll find oils and such from the manufacturing process, still left in the pipes! They burn off rather quickly, that is what you are seeing in the video!

Yellow would be your best bet for the street/daily use! We haven't had any issues with the bluestuff and RP1 pads on the street, but they are definitely designed for the abuse given on the track! Lots of noise and brake dust!

We've tested/installed both, and have nothing bad to say about either exhaust! Most of us at BMP prefer Milltek usually, due to the tip design/finish options. But happy to help you out with either! They both sound quite similar, fit great, and look great!

He does! @jewel.rnr on instagram!

Thanks for the kind words! Let us know when you are ready, would love to help!!

​@@BMPTuning thanks just wondering did you by any chance disconnect the battery before removing the LCI screen? Not sure if leaving it connected may damage the screen in some way

@@JayP-vh9wc ​ We would always recommend unhooking the battery when doing anything that concerns the electrical system

@@BMPTuning cool thank you ! I thought it would probably be a good idea lol

@@JayP-vh9wc Absolutely, lmk if you have questions on this or P3 and if you need to order we can help you with either of them!

cover your ears - hope this helps!