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the one that comes with this pump. www.amazon.com/dp/B014HB983M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. The gauge has a variety of settings which is done analog with a screwdriver to set the correct impedance range your sending unit produces. ruclips.net/video/ZlvWS9y3wXM/видео.html

Wow that’s pretty funny. Bet that was surprising!! Did you do that touching the yellow airbag system plug or something else? I popped one in my bmw seats like that. Gets your attention!

@@sdalin27 exactly that, afterward unwrapped the wire cover just to find out I touched it with the yellow wire, ever since then I’m terrified of the yellow wires

Good news is usually they’re on a separate plug but I guess if it’s destroyed already it’s more of a guessing game

Sure! Been meaning to do a complete state of the union in the whole thing. I’ve heard “air drop bars”.. sure. They also are tall and wide which means a strong vertical beam which probably was needed for attaching weapons and ambulance bodies to a solid wide base on a truck where the frame is about 4 feet wide. I wasn’t born when they designed it so I missed that meeting. :) I’m sure they are better to have than not have in a t bone, but this thing isn’t designed for that either. My year of almost daily driving with no cross bars tells me they don’t matter for a road and light trail going machine, so my advice if you want some legroom is to take them out. I’d do it again the same way and twice in Sunday

@@sdalin27 I appreciate it. Do you think welding in metal on the frame is needed? Do you feel like rock crawling would be a issue. I plan on doing a pickup style build

@@andrewsmith9980 I dont think so because it doesnt do anything in aid of the frame for strength. The body is supported only at the body mounts.. maybe it rests on the crossbeam under the tunnel. I don't remember. Bending of the frame could translate to the body, but if the frame is stiff, not much should happen. You could argue the crossbeam adds a trussing effect to the body for twisting, then from side to side for the B pillars which would be most important if you had an enormous roof rack loaded with hundreds of points. For me, I'll take the legroom and if the body moves around a bit, it's elastic and it'll come back where it was when it gets on all fours.

Yes you are correct. Has been completely useless for the last year as a near daily driver. thank you for your experience and wisdom

After I saved the fifth value the car went into action leveling and correcting ride height. It also cleared jack mode. I didn’t do anything with value 6. If it doesn’t work start at the beginning again. You can’t skip ahead and have to go 1-4 then 5. I had to re do it a bunch of times before it held the signal and everything was input correct. Part of that was not knowing I needed to save a fifth value though too

@sdalin27 do you recall if the vehicle was turned on or in accessory mode? I was able to get into the values and input them once but now it keeps telling me me signal is out of range and doesn’t let me back in to input values. (was doing this before i was able to get in the 1 and only time)

@@Klast94 I think it was running and not in accessory mode. Don't remember for sure but I had that issue too wit the computer going to sleep

I rewired the whole car. The turn signals are queued by paddle shifters on a Jaguar F Pace steering wheel.. which triggers an Arduino computer to do signals/brake lights and apply flashing with computer logic. These lamps were single wire brights which was a pain, because the brake signal and turn signal needed to power the same wire. If you find a turn signal switch you could use it that way I guess. It was not easy to sort due to the shared bright wire and logic set.

No. FWIW it also is not perfect air tight so I have to be careful not to overfill, or it'll leak on the tank via the pump or plate joint

Ok good to know. I just put a new tank in mine and had to remove the sending check valve since it was clogged up. Going to run it without since it seems to be holding prime.

I have not. I am planning to replace all 4 corners with an air suspension using LR4 Landrover parts because the smaller springs have made my payload capacity super weak

Gotcha. I already installed the two front springs and even after cutting a 1/3 of a coil they’re still too long. The springs look like they want to pop out. So what I thought about doing was installing the rears and dropping the truck on all four tires. Drive it around for a little and see how the springs look after. If they steal look like they want to pop out I’ll just go ahead and fabricate some new spring seats for the front. I’m going to attempt to install the rear springs without cutting them. I just need to buy the different style spring seats like the ones that you have on your truck. So aside from the payload capacity how did you like the way the springs feel? Didn’t really make that much of a difference in the payload capacity? I’m not planning on towing anything but I do have two 42s spares and a jack along with a winch in the back.

man, that is some terrible news

Thanks. I think so but I'm not sure on the cutoff for height. I guess I'd do a relative percentage of what was taken off the rear when compared to the original rear

Do you have more info regarding, if its same coil spring as Pathfinder and Armada etc. I am in Europe, so no Armada here..

No I dont. somewhere in the video it compares the stock with armada spring wire (.81") diameter. Maybe is a place to start. Could also look at Armada GVRW and find something in a similar weight class. There's a lot of science to spring rates etc, but at this stage its best approximation with experimentation @@Stigman11

Nice man. Moved to Charleston in 2013 and now am about 30 minutes from "I want to go" to stepping on the board

Hey man. I guess I need to do an update. Been using the truck for a while now and most the time it works great. Air suspension fabrication is the next big one

Wonder if you could use a metal concrete anchor or something in compression where you could get a good bite on the inside

@@sdalin27 appreciate the reply! I ended up just putting red loctite on the long bolt and leaving it threaded in overnight. Came out no issues

@@bryanrodarte5205 wow that’s a brave Hail Mary, that’s awesome it worked

@@bryanrodarte5205thank god lol cuz I did the same thing hoping it works

@@liamwarren6706 did it work?

That is an excellent idea. just bought one last week for another project, but will draw it first next time rivets need to come out!

no Idea on that. Mine has always just shown a voltage drop if I have something wired wrong, and tops out at 10amp

yes

It has a gas motor which is quieter than the diesel, but it is very well insulated (I feel no heat on the tunnel where it's covered )- but I also put heat shielding in underneath. It is effective in deadening the drum sound when you hit the metal body with your knuckles. I tried to geek out and really optimize the results, and would say it we overall very effective even when being picky.

My solution was to jump the wire across the power in/power out pins of the EWS (security) module, and send the DME(engine computer) to RPM motorsport for reprogramming. They were great to work with and got it turned in a day. Your dealer can possibly troubleshoot this and re-align the DME to handshake with the EWS, but mine was not working properly anymore. The radio has a rubber plug on the back end of it in the 2002 model which acts like a finger in a dam. When pulled, the finger comes out of the switch, and disables the car via the EWS module, and then the DME (engine computer) not getting its handshake from the EWS will not run the car. We tried to solve by reengaging that switch, but it did not work. It seems like once tripped, it will not fix without reprogramming

​@@sdalin27hey i have a 97 z3 with a no start condition, and its not sending power to the fuel pump when cranking on the main wire going in to fuel pump plug, and there is high resistance at the DME relay and the 5amp fuse on the in the fuse box i believe #13 and also behind the fuel pump relay under driver side dash... fuel pump relay is new , car only has 80,000 miles on it ..

@@MinuteManMechanic thats a tough one. I would think if youre seeing power to those parts of the system that maybe your anti theft stuff is wirking but i dint know a ton about how the circuits are set up. Maybe could use a wire with aligator clips and a fuse to bypass each questionable part one at a time and see if that gives success

@@sdalin27 ive watched a few more videos , and i think its the anti theft causing a no start condition , its also dependent on the EWS system installed on this year model which im not sure of yet, i know its a 97 inline 6 but not sure which EWS system that would be. But i think thats causing the resistance cause its keeping the fuel pump from priming etc.