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Were is your shop located?

440 have changed cross meter

Did the sam3 Inmy69 dart thanks anyway

Nice job did same in my ^97 67 Charles zehner 6:23

Your posting these Packard videos have been a tremendous help to me! I just got a ‘49 Packard 2 door with a 327 in it that has been sitting for 40 years plus too. I’ll be doing all this to mine and it will be so much easier having watched you figure it out first. Thank you!

Please look into it yourself but some say that GL-5 gear oil will eat all the brass synchros in your transmission. It is a long term process so changing to GL-4 might save you a bunch of work in the future.

Have you got a preferred source for the connecting rod bolts? Fcp or arp directly? Or?

Had one of these. A T595 Daytona later to become rebadged and up powered to the Daytona 955i. Loved it. Beautiful sound 🙂

very nice that you got it running

21:00 at some point it has become law that bikes have to always have their lights on, so obviously, the switch got removed to shut them off. I guess that had to be in the early 90s or so, since I owned two 80s bikes and on them you could still turn them off...

pah, 41k miles is not that bad. I've got an old Honda from the 80s with almost 100 thousand km (62k miles), so it will soon roll back over to 0 😂 At that point the reliable V2 is just broken in I'd say. I've heard of trans-alps with the same engine with 250k km on them just running fine.

The gas tank whistles while it’s filling, the gas pushing out the air makes it whistle. When it stops whistling that means it’s full because all the air is pushed it. Packard did that because the pumps back then didn’t have an auto shut off and you would know when to stop pumping gas.

Nice work

I have wanted one of those since 1999... i remember sitting on it in the show room ...

just be aware - it took my son and I 6.5 hrs to complete. It would have been 8 hours, but my son's friend who does canvass work on boats joined us with appropriate tools. In my opinion, two people are a minimum for this job - you do need 3-4 hands on occasion. The rivet holes will likely be too large after you overdrill old rivets, so I would suggest getting rivet backing (like small washers). Also, doing it on a hot day is a PITA, but it makes fabric much easier to stretch (and you will be stretching it). Finally, when replacing the 3-part rail in the back holding and stretching the fabric, start on one side and move across. DO NOT put in the side rails first - the middle part will not fit. Make sure you have this video on hand - there are a LOT of details you MUST get correctly; we had to refer to the videos at least 4 times during this job.

Cool engine swap, but you could have cleaned things up alittle before making the video.

In the link you have does the rear window and soft top come together or do I have to buy separate?

INSTEAD OF THE GREY ANTI SIEZE YOU SHJOULD USE THE COPPER ONE THEY MAKLE ON THE SPARK PLUGS AND ENGINE HARDWARE WHERE TEMPS GET HOTTEST.

The strut rod kicked my ass until I saw your video. Thanks

Where the links for the manual??

Your videos, your knowledge and your presentation are among the very best I have seen. Please do more videos on this car. Also, consider painting it the original color. I love cars from this era. I have a 1950 Buick convertible and I do all of my own mechanical work and I am learning more from you. Another thing, that device on the carburetor you were wondering about in an early video is part of the ignition/starting system. My 1950 Buick uses a similar device. This is what is activated when you start the car with the accelerator pedal. It contains components that disable voltage to the starter relay. There are 2 things that cause it to drop voltage to the solenoid. When engine vacuum reaches a certain point and when the generator starts charging. Yours works, but if it ever fails and you are out, you can simply jumper across the two connection points on the device. It is very easy to fix. Take it apart carefully and clean the copper contacts Also bend the tangs on the thin copper actuator out slightly.

We've watched about 10 different vids on Miata top replacement. This one is far and away the best. Thanks for the excellent vid.

There seems to be so sort of confusion as to the Model of this Car based on the comments. A C230 is also known as a C180 & C200 in parts of the world. It is a supercharged 1.8l Motor in the W203 Chassis. Late 2006 the Same motor (M271) was changed to a Turbo and went into some W204's. C240's & 250's were a V6 and would have two Valve covers. This particular variation does seem to be more difficult to work on than the others. Try getting to the MAF sensor. Really appreciate this video.

Well done sir,I’ve been following your tips, while I’m replacing my head gasket. Just a question, is there any place that I can get the Volvo software for free? I did a quick search but haven’t found any info about. Thanks in advance!

I can’t switch any gears park drive reverse Neutral is this a problem of a faulty wheel speed sensor

I just bought a 69 dodge dart.... was a slant 6 car..... would I be able to modify the K member the same way you did?

This Shit got me so motivated lol until I had to deal with that harmonic balancer bolt 🙃… I’m waiting on that special adapter I already got the weighted socket

Beautiful work

I'm rebuilding this engine (rings and valves) due to the issue with burning oil because of the rings. It only has 70k miles, so I wasn't going to replace stuff like the timing related bits. Now that I have it back together I noticed the timing chain gets slack between the two phasers each revolution. It makes a kind of clunking sound as the tensioner goes in and out. Is this normal? I don't have oil in it (I do have assembly lube of course) so I'm wondering if the pneumatic action in the tensioner is not in play and causing this temporarily now? I'd appreciate your opinion on it. I see there is a little slack between your cam gears also as your turn it, but not to this extent. Video showing it is here: ruclips.net/user/shortsKSaunpl1B6M

You can adjust the valves, with the engine running, under the passenger side wheel well. Panels removable on the passenger side of the engine.

Packard engineering was far beyond the Profit Mongers at GM, Ford,and Dodge/Plymouth.

RUclips keeps dropping my subscription....i have to re subscribe often.

That radio is a tube radio. Needs a few minutes to warm up for playing. You can easily find a local old timer to tweak it up for perfect performance. Don't trash it. IMHO.

Can you provide that title website again? I couldn't find them. My 2005 purchase of my '48 packard was from the family of the original owner in CA. Not much of a title since he bought it new. Never changed hands. Any assistance appreciated.

As a younger gentleman I had several of these cars through the years as a matter of fact 6 😊. In 1990 my brother and I swapped a 3.8 V6 turbo into this car. Took us a year. Unfortunately it was lost to a garage 🔥.

my two cents: since so many Fiero's were converted to Ferrari replica's my ultimate Fiero would be the opposite, a car that looks 100% like a bone stock Fiero but with a atmospheric Ferrari V12

I looking forward to seeing it when it is all done, clean, and mint!

These late 40s Packards have 46 grease zerts. According to my maintenance book. I have this exact car. 327 withO.D.

My 2012 Volvo S60 T4 with the 1.6 turbo four cylinder from Ford named Sigma B4164T engine is using 1 liter of oil every 1,100 Km. Where can I source the new pistons and rings to have them replaced? I’ve performed oil and filter changes every 5,000 Km but it seems insufficient. Also, I did perform and engine flush only to engross the gross profit margin of the oil change facility!

Could of cleaned the car up.

Packards byline in their advertising "Ask the man who owns one"

Great video, I subscribed. Btw back in the day Packard was up there with the best of them Rolls Royce licensed them to mfg the Merlin engine in ww2

Spray weld and turn it down

I love it when I see a young guy interested in REAL cars, not just Datsuns and Toyotas.

You can not use those skinny battery cables with 6 volts. You need nice fat 1 gauge cables, not 4 or 6 gauge. Using too small a gauge will result in slow cranking, frequent no-starts. Many will tell you that it is because it is 6 volts, but that is not true. 6 volt starters draw twice the amps as 12 volt starters, so you need thicker battery cables. Yes, they cost more, and that's why they switched to 12 volts - its cheaper.

Don't forget to put bearing oil into the generator oil cups. Lots of today's guys don't know those generator lube points are there since they only deal with sealed bearing alternators. It's 1940s technology and that's the way it still is. Good luck and keep moving forward.

I have a car exactly like that one in 2004. I am over 230,5000miles in it. I just replaced 8 sensor out of 18 and im going to check on the timing belt and keep up the maintenance. Biggest one is the supercharge get it oil and clean up and maybe up grade some things for more horsepower. Thanks for the videod !!!!

I thank you for the information.🎉🎉

How about removing rear cailpers? Have a video on that? Thanks

That was the best most informative video series on rebuilding a 1.8 BP4W that I have ever seen. Very good job sir! The video was very clear and you showed the complete process from pulling the engine to putting it back in after the rebuild. I might have to do mine soon but I'm doing a piston soak first and getting some promising results. Thank you for putting this video series out there because it will definitely help me when I do mine and will help anyone else who needs to do a 1.8 Miata rebuild. I highly recommend this.