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Hi, the slots are drawn at 3.175mm or .125ins. Please check that your file downloaded with slots at this size. Also you may want to measure the thickness of your material.

Hi, it all depends on which model and which type of joint. Slots and tabs could be left for a few hours or overnight. Glueing the lid on the heart box, the panels were probably left for an hour or so. Please keep in mind that when we are filming the instruction videos, a lot is happening, so it could take us an hour or so to move from step to step. It will also depend what you are making the models out of and the type of glue you are using. We know the some people use CA, superglue, and accelerator, so their joints are instant. Hope this helps.

Hi, glad you like it.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you for the kind comments.

qual a configuração você usa pra cortar o MDF 3mm? eu comprei uma mas ainda vai chegar

Hi, sorry, this is not a question we can answer. Every laser is different and uses different settings. Your laser supplier may be able to help you.

@@Zonatotal 100% potencia a 150 de velocidade na minha maquina

ok, obrigado por responder, eu só queria ter uma noção+-, pois a velocidade por exemplo é uma dúvida. com essa sua informação já tenho um norte de onde começar meus testes

@@Zonatotal testa tmb 350 em 3 passadas, força menos y em peças pequenas não quema muito, fica melhor acabado

There is a link on our website, FREELASERFILES.Com on the MATERIALS page.

Thank you.

Donde estan los archivos

FREELASERFILES.Com

You are welcome, enjoy.

Glad you like them!

Thank you so much!

Thank you

Glad you like it!

Hi, we use titebond 3 wood glue but you could use ant suitable glue.

Thank you for your kind comments.

Hi, the one in the video was cut from .125ins MDF, but you could use any 3mm or .125ins material. We made some out of 3mm baltic birch plywood and they worked well.

Hi, glad you like it. Enjoy your build.

Hi, thank you for your comments and we are glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you for your comments.

Hi, thank you for your comments. No, we are not doing a manual version of this one, but it would be easy for you to do one. I would recommend that you gear it down quite a bit. If you just put a hand crank on the small gear in the files, you may be tempted to run it too fast. Good luck and please send us a photo or video if you do one.

Hola, ¿por qué no puedes hacer este? Intentamos hacerlos para que todos puedan hacerlos.

Hi, no there is no reason why it can't be done in one glueing session. It was done in stages because if someone is using a Co2 laser with a larger kerf, the joints could be loose. The parts are flipped over several times during assembly and if the joints are loose, it could cause the pieces to move or fall out. Our files are used by some schools and assembled by quite young children. Can you imagine the confusion of several children round a table and pieces falling out. So we try to make it easy.

Hi, I have just checked the site and the files are there. Please let us know if you can't find them.

Hi, we like working with MDF. It cuts real easy, it is consistent, it glues well and it is really strong when it is fabricated. Glad you like the model, more coming soon.

Indeed, it's very versatile,@@freelaserfiles . I'm just starting to deal with it and already could see all those advantages! I'm curious about how strong are gears made of it, and how much gain we would obtain using gears relations.

Hi, we are glad that you like it.

Hi, the new spiral run is a new design, so it is different. It is not a copy of the old spiral, it is a new drawing. The spiral is bigger and stronger, so I thought it needed holding more securely. The design is just what came out of my head, it is my idea of how I wanted to make it. I did use some of the old design elements but changed them to suit the new design. Many people send us ideas of how things could be designed, and some people make changes to the designs and build them differently. We encourage new ideas and hope our designs stimulate people to design their own models. If you prefer the older design, change the drawing to use it. We include the original corel draw file so that people can make changes. There is no right or wrong way to make any model, so we encourage you to do it your way. If you do build it using the old design, or your own design, please send us a photo of how you changed it. I am not an expert at designing models and I know that there are more talented designers out there. I just like to share some of the designs which come out of my head. Please also remember that when I design a file to share, I have to keep in mind that people will be using different materials, which could have different thickness's, different lasers with different kerf thickness's, and have differing abilities from beginner to experts. I try to design each model to accommodate all these factors. When I designed models which I don't share and just build for myself, it is much easier. We hope this explain why the model is different and motivates you to do models your way.

@@freelaserfiles Thank you very much

Hi, sorry but we have no idea what a Luban with a Snapmaker Artisan 3n1. is. There are much more knowledgeable channels out there who could possibly help you, or maybe your software supplier could advice you We draw the files with three colors to define cutting line, score lines and etching areas. I can tell you that in all the files the cutting lines are black and the part numbers are shown in red. If you are seeing the part numbers in black, or not at all, it is a software issue. Hope this helps.

Hi, unfortunately I can't name upcoming projects. I am not being secretive or evasive, I just don't know what will come into my mind next. I have a lot of ideas, but sometimes it can take months to develop a design. The next in the modular marble run series will probably be a motorized three wheel lift, but we are also working on a run with a kinetic visual effect. It would be easy to just put out designs, but we like to take into account that the models are made by people with all levels of experience. So, like I said, I just don't know yet.

@@freelaserfiles It is completely understandable Thankful I need a tip: I made both of your marbles In the first version, the spiral only had clamps at the beginning and end But in the second version, the spiral has a holding clip for each round In my opinion, assembling the first version was much better and it worked properly I want to know why you changed it in the second version?

Thank you for your comments.

Hi, sorry but I haven't designed a car yet.

Thank you for your comments. We are glad you enjoyed it. More coming soon.

Hi, we use titebond 3 woodglue. There is a link in the Materials page on our website with more details.

Hi Tim, yes I messed up and uploaded an older file. I will go back and re-nest a new file. This will take quite a while to correct. In the mean time the correct part is "number 33" in the 'Parts Laid Out" file, if you want to grab it from there.

Perfect, thank you!

Hi, sorry, I missed the pins from the layouts. They have now been added to both layouts on sheet number one. We have also added a separate file called Locking Pins. Just a note, people were having problems with different kerf setting on our earlier files where we added kerf compensation. All our later files now have no kerf compensation. Slots are now drawn at 3.175mm or .125ins and are the same length as the matching tabs. Discs and holes are drawn at the same size. The tolerance is the kerf of your machine. The models shown in the instruction videos are now cut on a 20w Diode laser.

@@freelaserfilesthank you a lot. These files are great. Complex to assemble but they really look good.

Hope you enjoy it!

Hi Tim, thank you for spotting the errors. Part number 42 was omitted from the files by mistake. It has now been added to the download files, plus we have added a separate file just for this part. The miss numbering of the parts was caused by the file being redrawn so many times and unfortunately this caused mistakes while making the instruction video. We feel that the model can be made by watching the video and that changing the part number or video at this stage would cause more confusion for the hundreds of people who have already downloaded the file. Again thank you for letting us know about the errors.

That works, thank you!

You are welcome!

Thank you too!

Hi, as I mentioned, the marble run was designed several years ago, so I can't remember my design method. I have done so many designs since then. It wasn't designed as a file to offer free, but one we made for ourselves. The original runs were cut on our 150w Co2 laser before Diodes, with much smaller kerfs, became popular. I think I rounded the slot corners to accommodate different thickness of materials. Also most of the joints on this model are not glued, so I tried to get tighter joints without reducing the slots size. Several of our early models have joints with kerf compensation, because they were drawn to suit our Co2 laser. All our recent models are drawn with square corners and no kerf compensation. I have considered redrawing the marble run with no kerf compensation, but we know that this model is used in some schools as a project, so we think that if school children can build it, it must be ok. Hope this helps.

Hi, the balls are .5ins or 12.7mm. There is an Amazon link on the website for the ones we purchased.