Видео

bruh, just copy paste, lol

Is this pcb compatible with Kailh Hotswap Sockets choc?

Hi thanks for the video! Newbie question: I suppose you have to install the firmware after completing the build?

i have a plan buy first split keyboard do you thinking about ferris sweep in 2024. i prefer to use Vial base on qmk becasue it is easy to use for newbie. and i did not know about coding or complie. my plan is enable every thing and setup in vial later 😂 😂

Incredibly helpful video! I think I spotted the Ferris Bling MX at 4:10 , which is what I am planning on building. I am slightly confused on the stacked design, what materials did you use for the switch and bottom plates? Was this also printed by a PCB manufacturer or printed somewhere else? Thank you!

Bought the parts to build one, just waiting for them to arrive at this point, thought I'd give myself a heads up and went hunting for the FW to get the Nice!Nano up and running, and let me tell you, going from knowing nothing and getting whiplash from page to page, wiki to wiki, was something else, I think I got there in the end, but the parts haven't even arrived yet. Funnily enough, ended up on a tutorial page written in English by a fellow countrymen, and that got me up and running with QMK MSYS, I think I got everything sorted, only thing left is getting the parts and building it (Wish me luck, I've used a soldering iron maybe a total of 3 times at this point).

Beautiful! How much does this build cost?

Wow, this is amazing! I almost lost all hope realizing there's literally zero options for lefties. I guess you just have to do it yourself. Although I'm complete noob in such topic I might actually try and make one for myself in the near future. Thanks for the idea and inspiration!

Do they make a wireless version?

how long did this take you?

Excuse me, do you have the kicad of the sofle v2.1 rgb wireless keyboard pcb? I can't find it, I've only found the wired versions

Very educational! ... Where would the kailh choc version be?

what if when bridging a col pin to a row pin should give a certain output but it doesnt, as if the col pin is dead

I recently bought a kit from Aliexpress, it was actually very cheap so i decided to buy it. When i recived it i realize that i comes without the battery, is there a way to test everything without a battery? (the solder work and stuff) If i connect directly the nano to the pc it will do something? Only while i wait til the battery arrives.

OK, where is the instruction video for the Ferris Sweep Bling MX? I'm sure I saw it somewhere, but can't find it now. I thought it was on Ben's website, but it's not there. In fact there's absolutely no description of the Sweep Bling MX anywhere that I can find. The problem is that the nomen clatures between these various keyboards in the same species are so close that the tendency is to swap one for the other... but the instructions are not the same. I recall that the first time I did this I closed the gaps on the wrong side of the keyboard because I watched the instruction video for the Ferris SWOOP MX! Not the same at all! I had a hell of a time desoldering that mess.

i can use the trrs cable with a nice!nano on battery mode? i`m afraid to short my nanos

Thanks for this guide. Build mine some days ago and I realized I completely suck at soldering :D.

Not beginner friendly sounds like a direction challenge.

@KyekOfficial could you please send me a discord link? I'm trying to assemble this KB

How do I solder trrs socket to pro micro if I dont use pcb?

This misses flashing the firmware. Which is the hardest part imo

Awesome vid! Is there a reason the nice nano website says not to solder headers to B+ and B-? Is it safer to solder the battery directly to the nano or something?

Great example. And great soldering technique too.

More then enough

What brand of solder iron did you use

what it is your opinion about the chocofi? still debating between that and the ferris

Thanks dude. I just built one. And while my hands are confused. My maker heart is pleased as punch.

I recently bought all the parts and soldered them all together and ran into a few problems. I have tried it all with 3 different Pcs including a laptop. the left side of the Ferris sweep can be recognized after the reset of QMK toolbox but not as a pro micro ontroller but as a "microsoft serial usb device" and when I flash the whole thing, even with several hex files including the standard version, no buttons just work. The right side went with the flashing already from windows but was very rarely displayed in QMK toolbox, lets say 2 times out of 20 tries. But it seems like every part is working cleanly and correctly, even the pro micros. The last problem is also every time I connect one it is recognized by windows, but every time I connect both with the TRRs cable it is automatically not recognized by windows anymore. Not to mention that only one half recognizes key layouts. On the other hand it is also strange as I only get 1 line of code from QMK toolbox for each flash that the flash is ready and nothing more. I also bought 2 new Pro micros and came to the conclusion that maybe my QMK is wrong, because I also wanted to reset them and I'm really at a loss, because I haven't seen this problem with anyone so far and it's really a shame about the money, because I'm a bit younger and don't have that much money. Thanks for any help I can get. <3

Take my money man.. sheeesh... this would solve so many problems... blahh... going to make this... wow... I have wanted a reversed keyboard for my games for so long.

WOW!... this is made by someone who understands... sheesh... this is exactly what I am looking for ...

hey Keyk, do you have this layout for qmk?

hey @Keyk, what should ne the temperature of the soldering iron? is it 295?

Heyy, so will you still be able to charge the battery when you turn off the switch?

the answer is yes

You didn't need diodes?!

I fount the switch plates on the github repository is no for MX but for choc, do your plates also come from the same github repo you provide in the description?

Which VS Code theme/font are you using? Also, can you play some Starcraft/Warcraft/AoE in a keyboard small as this?

Hey mate, can you confirm the PCB option "different design" should be 1 or 2? Github is telling me 2, but it's referencing your video, where you've put 1. Thanks.

Many thanks for your very detailed guide, Kyek! You have been my inspiration to build my first sweep. Now I’m looking to up the challenge to build this swoop! A stupid question please: if I want to add the optional EC11 encoder to the Swoop, do I have to make any changes to the PCB gerber files on the GitHub? Or are the PCB files already designed to be compatible with that? Thanks again.

where did you print the front and back plate from?

Does the direction of the choc hotswap sockets matter?

What would happen if i connected a double or triple or even bigger size battery with the same voltage output? Heard a lot about custom keyboard with leds or small displays having short battery life but since a lot of us 3D print the case of the keyboard, I don't get why the small batteries...🤔

can you add an analog joystick to these?

If I want a hotswap, what need??

I have no soldering experience at all so maybe I'm way off base here, but wouldn't it have made more sense to align the reset button without solder, tape one side down, and then solder the other side? Then you just remove the tape and solder that side and it's perfect, right?

Is there any version of south facing ? Thankyou

can you link the soldering iron / solder you use ? any other materials you recommend as well?

Do you solder the micro controller so it doesn’t fall off? Or are there any other reasons.

Can I test the microcontroller without taking it out or will that risk damaging the board? I socketed it with copper wire and it took me like 20 minutes to push it into place, so I'd like to avoid having to do that again if possible. Edit: as I was going to remove the microcontroller, I realised the pin had bent so badly it wasn't even in the socket at all🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. What happens when you use material that's too flexible ig.

For SMD components, I'd use flux and tweezers to place them, plus my aged eyes need a magnifying glass for SMD components! A lot of the SMD joints in the video look 'cold' as it doesn't look like the pads heated up enough for the solder to flow on to them properly. The through-hole soldering was much, much better. The reason I mention extra flux, is that once you've pre-soldered the pad, the flux in the solder will disappear, and this makes it much harder to melt the solder and transfer heat to the solder and thus pad/component. Anyway, lovely board and nice video!