Absolutely fantastic. Thanks so much for making this. I ordered everything for a Sweep Compact yesterday, I edited the CAD files to remove the curve at the top of the boards and changed the silk screen so there’s a pretty real chance I have broken everything already. PCBway have said it’s ok though! Controllers and keycaps arrived today so things are happening!
How is your build coming along. I hope you post a video describing your experience. Your Gergoplex video drove me to begin a Korne LP build (waiting on parts) depending on my experience I am already considering this build as my mobile key due to the more comfortable pinkie layout on a 3X5.
@@AlexChavezHome Really well thanks, first build went fine but then I saw nice!nanos come back it stock so grabbed those and changed the whole thing to fully wireless. Now I’ve removed the top pinkie keys as well which must be about the closest I can get to an ultra-low hand movement layout. Will be doing videos on the whole lot as well as my layout etc. Thanks again for making this one!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video! 2 months ago, I built my first Sweep following this very guide. This being my first time ever with a soldering iron and knowing next to nothing about electronics, it felt daunting at first, but once I got everything in my hands it was far easier than I expected. Watching your guide was the thing that gave me the confidence I could tackle this and build I keyboard for myself. I’m not sure how much of this is due to the “IKEA bias”, but I now love these keyboards (yes, plural, as I built a second Sweep with nice!nanos following your instructions on the wireless build as well).
Thank you for sharing this! My objective with this video was to show beginners that really it's not that hard, so seeing that it worked always makes me happy.
hey, this is something that helped me. Putting some solder on the tip and then applying it to the contact will allow heat the transfer more easily reducing the contact time you need with the actual component.
Nice video with good production values! I have a small gripe with the soldering quality. Most of the joints aren't flowing properly and while the keyboard will work just fine, it will eventually start having contact problems. The pcb via and the pin should be preheated slightly longer, and the molten solder kept molten just a short while more in order for the solder to actually form a metallic alloy with all the surfaces involved. I'm speaking about maybe half a second longer in both beginning and end. A good indicator for good heat is when you can push the solder wire into the unheated side of pin and it will melt nicely. Then pull out the wire, hold the iron in for about half to full second and pull the iron out. Also it is good to note that in the electronics manufacturing industry, soldering through hole components is considered a lot more difficult than surface mount components. This is mostly due to large part of the solder not being visible and also the longer preheat and postheat needed. I like it that you are not using excess heat, which is a common error for hobbyist soldering and often used to compensate soldering iron with bad heat transfer from iron to components.
Thanks for the tips. The method you described is what I usually do when I solder, in this case I was trying to go very fast to record everything with the same light; the whole build took me 1 hour. An important note is that this board is filled with a copper ground plane on both sides, this means that every ground pad is significantly harder to heat up than the rest. That being said I always went for the classic volcano shape on all pads and the keyboard still works today, and even if it didn't, it wouldn't be a big deal to resolder one or two pads.
@@KyekOfficial Yeah I can see the hurry! Your technicue looks pretty good and would be perfect with just a bit longer pre- and postheat :) As you say, the multilayer board needs quite a lot of heat and this is I think the main reason why SMD is considered a lot easier. Also the iron is surprisingly good for its price. Currently clearly the best bang for buck.
📋 EXTRA NOTES: 📌 If your version has jumper pads don't forget to solder those as well! (Only on the bottom side of each keyboard). See my Swoop video if you want to see how it's done. 📌I do not use a reset switch! I prefer to reset my keyboards using metal tweezers, so my guide does not instruct on how to add a reset switch. If you don't have a reset switch you can reset the board by shorting the two reset pads behind the TRRS jack, or you can short the GND and RST pads on the micro controller. 📋 WIRELESS ONLY: 📌If you want to go wireless, use HIGH PROFILE sockets for the micro-controller! If you use mill-max low profile sockets the battery will not fit under the nice!nano. 📌 If you want to avoid using a power switch, solder the red battery wire to BAT+ and the black battery wire to Bat-GND. Then bridge the two close together pads on the power switch footprint. (the two pads I'm referring to are on the south side of the footprint). This will simulate the "on" state of the power switch and your nice!nano will receive power. Good luck!
Thanks for making this video! I just built the ferris sweep, at first I was intimidated but it was actually pretty straightforward. I am typing this on the ferris.
@@KyekOfficial I fixed all problems I had (caused by my shitty soldering). It works beatifully. Having also a mouse/navigation layer has improved also my workflow. Who said you need 104/105 keys?
I think the soldering will be much easier and cleaner if you treat the contact surfaces with some flux before you solder each component. You can get a handy pen type applicator.
I recently bought all the parts and soldered them all together and ran into a few problems. I have tried it all with 3 different Pcs including a laptop. the left side of the Ferris sweep can be recognized after the reset of QMK toolbox but not as a pro micro ontroller but as a "microsoft serial usb device" and when I flash the whole thing, even with several hex files including the standard version, no buttons just work. The right side went with the flashing already from windows but was very rarely displayed in QMK toolbox, lets say 2 times out of 20 tries. But it seems like every part is working cleanly and correctly, even the pro micros. The last problem is also every time I connect one it is recognized by windows, but every time I connect both with the TRRs cable it is automatically not recognized by windows anymore. Not to mention that only one half recognizes key layouts. On the other hand it is also strange as I only get 1 line of code from QMK toolbox for each flash that the flash is ready and nothing more. I also bought 2 new Pro micros and came to the conclusion that maybe my QMK is wrong, because I also wanted to reset them and I'm really at a loss, because I haven't seen this problem with anyone so far and it's really a shame about the money, because I'm a bit younger and don't have that much money. Thanks for any help I can get.
Screwed up the right half. Wrong side up for pro micro. But... finished with new parts ;-) The real problem is, this is my first time for 34. Can't reprogram my muscles.
Good luck with your first build! If you need any help feel free to leave another comment or tag me in discord in the ferris channel. discord.gg/r2wmfbwqn2
I left it out on purpose because I don't think it's necessary to buy my same iron if you are soldering for the first time. I started with a cheap amazon kit myself. Anyways, i recommend these irons: - TS100 (the one I have) - TS80 - Pinecil If you get one of these install IronOS on them: github.com/Ralim/IronOS#readme The solder I am using is "Ø 0,56mm - Pb 38 Sn 60 Cu 2" (leaded solder with flux) The tool I use to cut the pins at the end is called "Flush cutter", I have a generic one from Aliexpress.
@@KyekOfficial I did it! I completed the right side of the keyboard and all 17 keys work. It took me about an hour and a half from pulling the soldering iron out of the box to loading the firmware and testing the keys. This is my first time soldering anything.
OK, where is the instruction video for the Ferris Sweep Bling MX? I'm sure I saw it somewhere, but can't find it now. I thought it was on Ben's website, but it's not there. In fact there's absolutely no description of the Sweep Bling MX anywhere that I can find. The problem is that the nomen clatures between these various keyboards in the same species are so close that the tendency is to swap one for the other... but the instructions are not the same. I recall that the first time I did this I closed the gaps on the wrong side of the keyboard because I watched the instruction video for the Ferris SWOOP MX! Not the same at all! I had a hell of a time desoldering that mess.
Some questions: -Are the sizes different between the different versions? (could I use a case made for a sweep v2.2 with a sweep high?) -What are the main differences between the Sweep High and the High M? -Could I use a cirque trackpad with this? Thank you in advance
The sizes are common between boards with choc spacing and boards with MX spacing. Boards that only support chocs are all the same size, boards that also/only support MX are slightly bigger. To answer directly; the SweepV2 case is not compatible with Sweep High. The Sweep High M is a reversible PCB, that's the main difference. You can't use the Cirque trackpad because the microcontroller pins are all in use. (Also, there isn't space where to put it).
@@KyekOfficial One more question: When I loaded the Gerber file for the Sweep High M into JLCPCB, the only mounting holes I saw were for the tenting puck. Is this correct or should there be other holes for the plates?
Thanks for this video. Quick question, in the intro you mentioned that this keyboard is wireless, but you didn't solder a battery to either of the microcontrollers. Does the Elite C have a built-in battery?
Thank you so much for this video! I almost chickened out and bought a pre built keyboard... Now that you have gained more experience building keyboards, do you have any tips for better soldering?
The only things I would change of this video are: buy HASL finish PCB instead of ENIG, and socket your micro controller. (Don't use the included headers)
Hey! Thanks a lot for the video. If I get a hold of soldering tools I want to make one too. My question is about the process of uploading software to the microcontroler. Do you need to do that? To get the most of the flexibility of making it yourself.
Hey, I know this video is quite old but I have a few questions: - How do I change some placements of keys if I want a little different layout? - How do I interface the keyboard with the computer and what software do I use to create something like custom/multiple layers? Ty in advance. I always wanted to build a keyboard from scratch but at the moment I'm too inexperienced to know anything about this so is there any more technical explanation on this subject or related?
1) Do you mean physical layout or software layout? 2) It depends on what micro-controller you decide to use. The main firmware choices are: QMK, ZMK, KMK, Vial, VIA. If you're looking to learn how to make a keyboard PCB I recommend ai03's keyboard PCB guide.
@@emanueledepaoli3377 You're welcome. You might be interested in Ergogen as well, some people like to use it to make PCBs via code. I never used it, personally but you might prefer that workflow.
Just got my order in. Super excited to get this and build it. I do have a question though. Is there any convenient place to build a case for this to rest in? Perhaps a company that 3d prints cases based on your board?
do you think this is something that some one that has basically 0 soldering experience can do ? with a shitty iron from amazon? im trying to gauge whether or not this is actually doable for me
0 soldering experience yes, just watch a quick how to solder video to avoid the most basic mistakes and you're good to go. Regarding the tools, it's important to have something that works, Amazon's 20$ irons can be a bit of a dice roll. If it works it's fine but I'd recommend getting a pinecil, ts100 or ts80 instead. It will last you for your whole life and you can rely on it.
Hey mate, can you confirm the PCB option "different design" should be 1 or 2? Github is telling me 2, but it's referencing your video, where you've put 1. Thanks.
I have decided to not make it because I had some issues and made some mistakes and I don't want people to copy me. Unfortunately I don't have the materials to make another one and film it. Sorry.
Thanks for this video. I order the PCB and all the components. Now I am ready to flash using QMK. The flashing process ask me to reset the keyboard. How do I do that?
Hey, Thanks for the great guide! I was inspired by yours and Ben Vallack’s videos and I am currently waiting for my parts. I noticed that on his keyboard the elite-c on the RHS is flipped. How did you get yours to be the same way around on both sides?
A nice prebuilt alternative, btw, would be the Keyboardio Atreus. 44 keys, not fully split but split "enough", small and comes with a carrying case. Hot-swappable. Gets a UI for it's firmware called Chrysalis. A bit less than $200 which is great for what it is. I love the thing. My only complaint is the "pinky column" isn't staggered low enough.
You can use MX switches on the original Ferris by Pierre. The version in the video is only compatible with choc V1. See more info on GitHub. The rubber comes with adhesive on it. I just push it on the PCB and it sticks.
Advantages of the Kyria: + Has more keys (better if you are not sure how many you need) + Supports fancy stuff like Oleds, RGB Underglow, Encoders + The PCB Design is more refined and supports more types of switches + Easy to get if you are in Europe + Has two official case options and can support other cases like 3d printed or metal Advantages of the Ferris: + Smaller, lighter, more portable + Minimalistic, has what you need and nothing more + Easy to get from anywhere in the world + Has choc spacing (Choc switches look nicer on this board) + Easier to build + Much cheaper + Open source (you can customize the PCB if you know how to do it)
@@KyekOfficial I think I can get used to the 34 keys regardless of having to use Cyrillic on a daily basis. Also find the idea of choc switches closer to my laptop experience. But from ergonomic and typing perspective do one suits you better, or it is more a matter of portability and aesthetics?
@@miroslavbazitov183 I like both honestly. I don't feel one has a significant ergonomic advantage over the other. Except for the fact that the Ferris makes you move your pinky less. I enjoy typing on both devices. I am also in your same situation because I type italian and german, so I need quite a lot of accents! I access my accent layer by pressing and holding both thumb buttons on the right side at the same time.
@@KyekOfficial I'm curious to try these layouts the-t-34-keyboard-layout(googlable) & obosob (github user) keymap, with proper choc switches, spacing and keycaps. currently have left my Anne Pro 2 with just 34 keys, using qmk+kmonad, but my left wrist is in a huge pain - like never before. may try to print the Kyria template, but I'm also waiting for a Corne... have to resist further purchases
I was also inspired to build a 34 key-board by a layout article. In my case it was "seniply layout". I use a variation of this layout using qwerty and an extra symbol layer. If your problem is in the wrist you should focus more on tenting than anything else, the layout changes the position of the fingers, not that of the wrists. In my case the wrists are perfectly fine, I just have a little bit of pain in both pinky fingers. I hope you can get better soon, hand/wrist pain is very annoying to deal with. If you want you can print a layout tester for almost any ergo keyboard using this page: compare.splitkb.com/
There isn't a set price because it depends if you sell your extra pcbs to recoup cost or if you buy just one kit from somebody else, also depends on the stuff you already have and the type of build that you want. For a build like mine it breaks down like this: Keycaps - 19,19€ TRRS Jack x2 - 1,23€ EliteC x2 - 39,91€ Choc Switches - 24,45€ PCB Kits x5 - 9,98€ ----- Total: 94€ + Shipping If you go wireless it will be much more expensive. If you go with Pro-Micro instead of Elite-C and buy cheaper keycaps it will be much less expensive.
how much would it cost to make one of these (how much did the components cost in total?) I'm seeing prebuilt Ferris' on Etsy but the cost £90, but the build seems to be possible in around £60?
I wanted to modify the pcb according to my need, but am unable to do so. Moreover I use Easyeda and I think the files are of Kikad. I tried to to import the files but it isn't working at all. U have any solution brother?
That's a bit too generic for me to provide any help. My tip for now is join the low profile discord and ask there in the #help or #design channels. We will be able to help you better with a live chat
I'm trying to understand what parts to buy to make a wireless version I was hoping to find a "buy parts page" that lists all parts, and simply receive/put together. Even if some soldering is required. But regardless, are there any examples of how long the wireless battery versions last? I haven't seen any online
In the GitHub page there is a list of all the needed parts. In the discord server there is a channel called "where to buy parts" where there are plenty of links for all kinds of things. If you need a list of vendors you can find keyboard stores in kbd.news/vendors other parts can be bought from electronic stores like tme.eu mouser and digikey or from AliExpress. My wireless sweep lasts 1.5 weeks on the main side and 1 month on the peripheral side. You can use zmk power profiler to calculate battery duration for your usage.
Did you use lead free solder to put up this keyboard? I am considering this build but I am not experienced with soldering so I am not sure if I should use lead-free solder or not
@@adolhunter I prefer solder with lead. But if you use this type of solder then don't eat while you are working on the keyboard as the lead from the soldering can stick to your hands.
@@KyekOfficial I am definitely not gonna eat while I am soldering this keyboard and will be very catious; I am speaking to after I built it, I may occasionly have some snacks during a typing session on this keyboard. Should I be concerned?
Hi! Is it possible to change switches in this keyboard? I bought it already soldered with red pro switches 35g, and I think that I don't like them. Thinking about blue ones. How do you think If it make really differece in low profile keyboards?
To change switches you need to desolder them and replace with new ones. I would do this with an SS-02 Engineer solder sucker. Be careful because every switch has one ground pin which will be much more difficult to melt than the other pin. It will take a few hours to do but it's possible.
Can I use normal QMK configuration?? I have my corne with qmk and home row mod. I really like this keyboard, but I will have to get used to using 8 less keys, I have my layout very learned, but this will force me to modify it to have everything I need haha
hello, sorry for posting this so late, but do you know what the difference is between the SMD and TH TRRS jacks, im having trouble figuring out which one i need to buy for this keyboard build. thanks.
Have a question, and not sure opening a github issue for it is appropriate. Trying to order the sweep high PCB from JLCPCB and they said " the minimum width of plated slot need to be 0.5mm or more, could we enlarge the width of 0.3mm and 0.4mm slots to 0.5mm?" If I tell them yes would that cause issues with the board?
When building the Sweep with nice!nano should I solder the battery to the boards Gnd and Batt+ soldering points or should I solder them to the pinout Gnd and Raw pins. Note I am using sockets and have not installed on/of switch and only get the nano led to light when I connect via USB. I have tested the batteries and they both show 3.94v
The switch is needed to close the connection between BAT+ and RAW. To assemble the board without a power switch you can either: • Solder the red wire to BAT+ and the black wire to Bat-GND. Then bridge the two close together pads on the power switch footprint. (the two pads I'm referring to are on the south side of the footprint) • Solder the red wire to RAW and the black wire to GND on the micro-controller. • Solder the red wire to RAW on the micro-controller, and the black wire to Bat-GND.
Hi I got someone to build this keyboard for me, looks exactly the same! Have a qn: how do you reset this into boot loader mode? I was told to use a paper clip and short the ground and the reset node, but I can't seem to find it.
You can touch the two solder pads close to the TRRS Port, or check the labels on the micro controller. You should see the "RST" and "GND" labels near the top left corner.
hey, i gotta ask a question? If i buy a pcb from let's say little keyboards will it already have the open source code in it or would i have to install it into the pcb? As i am trying to make a corne keyboard but i don't really understand how to do the code part, i am fine with all the soldering parts.
The firmware is stored on the micro-controller. If the micro-controller you are using supports QMK you can configure it using "qmk configurator" (online tool) and you can flash it on the micro controller using qmk toolbox. No coding needed. You will need to write the firmware with code only if you need very advanced features. I don't know if littlekeyboards will flash a firmware for you, but even if they do, it's not common to use the default firmware. So you should want to flash your own firmware anyway.
@@KyekOfficial eh, oh man making the corne is gonna melt my brain. So erm like how would you do that xD, could you send me a link or smth i don't really mind cuz i am relatively new to the split/ergo keyboard community
Good question! The PCB you see in the video is HASL finish. As you can see, the contact points have a silver colour. If you order the gerber file from github there is a crab on the right side of the board made of exposed copper. If you order in HASL that crab will also be silver. Enig-Rohs is a bit more "premium" finish, and both the contact points and the copper crab will look gold. I suggest Enig-Rohs because the copper crab is "meant" to be gold. But if you don't mind the silver finish feel free to downgrade. Good luck!
The Pro-Micro is an arduino, the elite-c and nice!nano are replacement versions meant for diy keyboards, not sure if they can use arduino IDE. The sweep doesn't allow for displays but you can install them on the swoop (a fork of sweep) github.com/jimmerricks/swoop
@@KyekOfficial ty so much man, I am hooked on the small display even tho it is useless, but i still love it. Can I use arduino pro micros?, i saw a guy using them and i can get them cheaper where i live. if I wanted to build a corne, where can i get the backplate built? i couldn't find the schematics (didn't looked hard enough) can I like DIY it?
It depends on the PCB finish that you pick. Mine is HASL finish which is silver, if you want it in gold you need to pick ENIG finish. I regret recommending ENIG in the video, I think HASL makes more sense since it's much cheaper.
@@KyekOfficial thanks for the fast reply, I was hoping I will get one. So this does not depend on the scheme in the gerber file, but the print type material? I am planning to build one with millmaxes and this is why I wanna choose the proper mill max plating. Tin on tin contacts is better than tin on gold for example. Threeshort questions, any point using the much more expensive pcbway instead of jlcpcb, what about thickness of 2 instead of 1.6, any other options? For HASL, there is also leadfree, but I guess it is the same in function with no lead.
@@karthusrop1635 ENIG is a more premium finish I don't think you need to worry about the contact surface for millmax pins. By the way, if you want hotswap why don't you go for the kailh sockets? For the factory just use the cheaper one, results are great from both. HASL lead free is the same without lead like you figured out.
@@KyekOfficial I guess you raise a good point, maybe in some end built case I can go for a mill max option otherwise no point in spenidng more. Why do so many people go with pcbway though, jlc is ends cheaper?
Hello, can you help me with my build? I don't have any experience in soldering. But with a lot of difficult i did it. After flashing pro micros, my wired version don't works. Just the master side can send input. How i can debug the problem? Any idea?
jlcpcb doesn't show the preview and doesn't detect the dimensions, I wonder what i did wrong edit: the dimensions are specified in the file name so I just used those. still no preview though
I don't offer build services as I don't have time for it, but you can join the discord server in the description and ask S'mores #6844 to build one for you
Hey could you explain the differences between the v2 pcb and v2.1 pcb? I see that the sides are swapped on the kicad file? Also how would i go about adding oleds ontop of the microcontrollers? Im planning a wireless build with nicenanos!
The 2.0 is just an older version, get the 2.1 since it has a few improvements on it. I've never used oleds so I can't help you about that but I think you can't add them on a sweep unless you change the pcb in kicad or do some hand wiring.
I followed the directions in this video and used JLCPCB to purchase but ran into issues. After I submitted my order they told me it couldn’t be printed because as follows: “the clearance trace/pads to copper grids is too narrow, smaller than minimum requirement 0.2mm”. Does anyone know what I’m doing wrong here? I didn’t edit the gerber file at all, just used the one under sweepv2.
@@KyekOfficial They responded to me this morning and said there was a mistake in sending me that email. It sounds like they mixed me up with another customer. There was also an issue at the beginning of the process because they said this was technically '2 designs' and not one, which required an upcharge that I had to pay a supplement for. This was through jlcpcb. It was a bit frustrating, but as long as I get them as described within a week or two I'll be very happy. Thanks for the help!
@@MicCheckOneTwo12 This is correct, the V2 PCB includes two designs. This was reported in the GitHub readme file of the v2 board. Glad you got it sorted with JLC
@@KyekOfficial Thanks for the quick response. I was afraid I needed to setup the QMK build environment but found out that I could use the QMK Toolbox to configure the EEPROM. And now it works fine!
Hey! Thanks for the guide, in having issues with my build, after flashing qmk the orientation of the keys on the right half are flipped, e.g. when I press what should be 'h' I instead get 'l' and vice versa, any idea what's going on?
You need to flash each side with this command: qmk flash -kb -km default -bl avrdude-split-left qmk flash -kb -km default -bl avrdude-split-right Doing this writes handedness to the bootloader and each side will forever know which way it's flipped. You will also be able to plug USB on the right side or use the right side alone.
@@KyekOfficial ah ok cool, thought it could be something like that, will definitely join the discord just in case I run into any issues, thanks for the quick reply!
The advantage of the Elite C is just the USB-C port and the fact that it's black, so it matches the board better. Feel free to use Pro Micro's instead. If you want you can even use one pro micro and one elite-c.
In addition, the USB port on the Elite-Cs are mid-mounted on the board, hence stronger. Pro Micros are top-mounted so they may break when you plug in the cable. There are ways to make the Pro Micro port stronger like adding epoxy, ask on Discord for tricks to do that.
Has anyone tried to add an analog stick to this? Edit: I've been looking into this board but wanted to have a analog stick as a solution to playing games that involve many key binds. I've considered altering the PCB myself but my lack of experience makes that task daunting.
@@MatthewHilbertsBaritone I don't know of any keyboard like that except for the Keychron K1 which is a prebuilt. For a custom you might have better luck asking in the discord linked in the description
Hello, I want to make this board with cherry mx switches so I uploaded the sweep high file but it finds some errors with some of the gerber files such as "Gerber and Drill Layers do not align". The swieev2 file is totally fine. Can I build my keyboard with cherry switches with the sweepv2?
No, the SweepV2 is Choc v1 only as you can see from the compatibility chart in GitHub. The Ferris High is quite new, if you have problems with it I recommend creating a new issue in the GitHub page so the developer can help you.
@@KyekOfficial I have 2 question. 1. Since the pcb is not reversible... with nice!nano is it possible to get the usb port on both side of the kb to face outwards (away from the board)? 2. Did you remove the trrs jack when you upgraded to wireless? I have read about trrs jack might cause some damage to the board or the batteries but couldnt find a solid explanation to not use it if on/off switch is present.
The price can vary a lot depending on how much you are willing to wait on shipping, component choice, and your location. I would say in general you can expect to spend around 70€ or 80$
@@KyekOfficial I have one question: I've just tried to look at your keymap, but am not very goot at reading .keymap text file. Is there any way to look at the keymap in more graphical form? (something like vial or qmk online configurator)?
@@KyekOfficial yea just tried it with the default firmware based on your suggestion but still get the same result right side not registering key presses
![How to make a SWOOP keyboard [MX]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pvvNYPsMyz4/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely fantastic. Thanks so much for making this. I ordered everything for a Sweep Compact yesterday, I edited the CAD files to remove the curve at the top of the boards and changed the silk screen so there’s a pretty real chance I have broken everything already. PCBway have said it’s ok though! Controllers and keycaps arrived today so things are happening!
Looking forward to seeing it on your channel, good luck!
Eyy, i know you
Ended up here from your gergoplex videos. Think I’ll be building this instead
How is your build coming along. I hope you post a video describing your experience. Your Gergoplex video drove me to begin a Korne LP build (waiting on parts) depending on my experience I am already considering this build as my mobile key due to the more comfortable pinkie layout on a 3X5.
@@AlexChavezHome Really well thanks, first build went fine but then I saw nice!nanos come back it stock so grabbed those and changed the whole thing to fully wireless. Now I’ve removed the top pinkie keys as well which must be about the closest I can get to an ultra-low hand movement layout. Will be doing videos on the whole lot as well as my layout etc. Thanks again for making this one!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video!
2 months ago, I built my first Sweep following this very guide.
This being my first time ever with a soldering iron and knowing next to nothing about electronics, it felt daunting at first, but once I got everything in my hands it was far easier than I expected.
Watching your guide was the thing that gave me the confidence I could tackle this and build I keyboard for myself.
I’m not sure how much of this is due to the “IKEA bias”, but I now love these keyboards (yes, plural, as I built a second Sweep with nice!nanos following your instructions on the wireless build as well).
Thank you for sharing this! My objective with this video was to show beginners that really it's not that hard, so seeing that it worked always makes me happy.
hey, this is something that helped me. Putting some solder on the tip and then applying it to the contact will allow heat the transfer more easily reducing the contact time you need with the actual component.
Nice video with good production values!
I have a small gripe with the soldering quality. Most of the joints aren't flowing properly and while the keyboard will work just fine, it will eventually start having contact problems. The pcb via and the pin should be preheated slightly longer, and the molten solder kept molten just a short while more in order for the solder to actually form a metallic alloy with all the surfaces involved. I'm speaking about maybe half a second longer in both beginning and end. A good indicator for good heat is when you can push the solder wire into the unheated side of pin and it will melt nicely. Then pull out the wire, hold the iron in for about half to full second and pull the iron out.
Also it is good to note that in the electronics manufacturing industry, soldering through hole components is considered a lot more difficult than surface mount components. This is mostly due to large part of the solder not being visible and also the longer preheat and postheat needed.
I like it that you are not using excess heat, which is a common error for hobbyist soldering and often used to compensate soldering iron with bad heat transfer from iron to components.
Thanks for the tips. The method you described is what I usually do when I solder, in this case I was trying to go very fast to record everything with the same light; the whole build took me 1 hour.
An important note is that this board is filled with a copper ground plane on both sides, this means that every ground pad is significantly harder to heat up than the rest.
That being said I always went for the classic volcano shape on all pads and the keyboard still works today, and even if it didn't, it wouldn't be a big deal to resolder one or two pads.
@@KyekOfficial Yeah I can see the hurry! Your technicue looks pretty good and would be perfect with just a bit longer pre- and postheat :)
As you say, the multilayer board needs quite a lot of heat and this is I think the main reason why SMD is considered a lot easier.
Also the iron is surprisingly good for its price. Currently clearly the best bang for buck.
@@KyekOfficial What soldering Iron is that?
@@AX-fx7ng ts100
📋 EXTRA NOTES:
📌 If your version has jumper pads don't forget to solder those as well! (Only on the bottom side of each keyboard). See my Swoop video if you want to see how it's done.
📌I do not use a reset switch!
I prefer to reset my keyboards using metal tweezers, so my guide does not instruct on how to add a reset switch.
If you don't have a reset switch you can reset the board by shorting the two reset pads behind the TRRS jack, or you can short the GND and RST pads on the micro controller.
📋 WIRELESS ONLY:
📌If you want to go wireless, use HIGH PROFILE sockets for the micro-controller!
If you use mill-max low profile sockets the battery will not fit under the nice!nano.
📌 If you want to avoid using a power switch, solder the red battery wire to BAT+ and the black battery wire to Bat-GND. Then bridge the two close together pads on the power switch footprint. (the two pads I'm referring to are on the south side of the footprint). This will simulate the "on" state of the power switch and your nice!nano will receive power.
Good luck!
For wireless, do we go with Sweepv2 or Sweep compact BLE? It's a bit unclear which one to choose as the BLE seems specific for wireless.
@@idankk Sweep V2!
As a heads up, I've got a working keyboard with Choc reds and 0305-2 mill max sockets. As far as I'm aware, there aren't any compatibility issues
I have just experienced that Mill max sockets 7305 wont fit in a Ferris Sweep 2.1 board. Should have read the comments here i guess :)
@@Remko1981nl I guess it's time to build another board to justify buying them :')
Thanks for making this video! I just built the ferris sweep, at first I was intimidated but it was actually pretty straightforward. I am typing this on the ferris.
Nice, enjoy it!
I'm thinking about building one, can you tell me how much the parts cost?
@@thepaulcraft957 I ordered most of the small parts from AliExpress. Overall, I estimate it costed me around 50 - 60 Euros.
@@Cyberducky thank u very much
what was the total cost for parts?
Thanks dude. I just built one. And while my hands are confused. My maker heart is pleased as punch.
Happy typing!
I seen you on ergo keyboard subreddits and your video inspired me to build a ferris sweep.
Great example. And great soldering technique too.
Thanks for this guide. Build mine some days ago and I realized I completely suck at soldering :D.
@@MarcoDesiderati You gotta start from something! I hope it works though
@@KyekOfficial I fixed all problems I had (caused by my shitty soldering). It works beatifully. Having also a mouse/navigation layer has improved also my workflow. Who said you need 104/105 keys?
I think the soldering will be much easier and cleaner if you treat the contact surfaces with some flux before you solder each component.
You can get a handy pen type applicator.
My solder has a flux core, but yes I should try a flux pen.
@@KyekOfficial Also, I forgot to say thanks for the video; great help for people trying to find out about all the keyboard options.
I recently bought all the parts and soldered them all together and ran into a few problems. I have tried it all with 3 different Pcs including a laptop. the left side of the Ferris sweep can be recognized after the reset of QMK toolbox but not as a pro micro ontroller but as a "microsoft serial usb device" and when I flash the whole thing, even with several hex files including the standard version, no buttons just work. The right side went with the flashing already from windows but was very rarely displayed in QMK toolbox, lets say 2 times out of 20 tries. But it seems like every part is working cleanly and correctly, even the pro micros. The last problem is also every time I connect one it is recognized by windows, but every time I connect both with the TRRs cable it is automatically not recognized by windows anymore. Not to mention that only one half recognizes key layouts. On the other hand it is also strange as I only get 1 line of code from QMK toolbox for each flash that the flash is ready and nothing more. I also bought 2 new Pro micros and came to the conclusion that maybe my QMK is wrong, because I also wanted to reset them and I'm really at a loss, because I haven't seen this problem with anyone so far and it's really a shame about the money, because I'm a bit younger and don't have that much money.
Thanks for any help I can get.
This is an absolutely amazing video!!
That soldering iron looks so sleek!
What a beautiful keyboard, I hope to do it soon, it is very cool!
How much does it cost you? Mind to tell a number? Thanks
Done the left half today. One down one to go!!!
Screwed up the right half. Wrong side up for pro micro. But... finished with new parts ;-)
The real problem is, this is my first time for 34. Can't reprogram my muscles.
Hi thanks for the video! Newbie question: I suppose you have to install the firmware after completing the build?
Yes, there are a few options for firmware
Thanks for the video I’m looking to build my first keyboard and this is exactly what I’m after!
Good luck with your first build! If you need any help feel free to leave another comment or tag me in discord in the ferris channel.
discord.gg/r2wmfbwqn2
This link is outdated. Can you make a new one plz :)
This is great! Thank you! Could you point us to the soldering iron, solder and other equipment you're using here?
I left it out on purpose because I don't think it's necessary to buy my same iron if you are soldering for the first time. I started with a cheap amazon kit myself.
Anyways, i recommend these irons:
- TS100 (the one I have)
- TS80
- Pinecil
If you get one of these install IronOS on them: github.com/Ralim/IronOS#readme
The solder I am using is "Ø 0,56mm - Pb 38 Sn 60 Cu 2" (leaded solder with flux)
The tool I use to cut the pins at the end is called "Flush cutter", I have a generic one from Aliexpress.
@@KyekOfficial I did it! I completed the right side of the keyboard and all 17 keys work. It took me about an hour and a half from pulling the soldering iron out of the box to loading the firmware and testing the keys. This is my first time soldering anything.
@@chrchr002 GOOD JOB!!! 🎉🎉🎉 Make sure you don't rush it and have fun with it!
Beautiful! How much does this build cost?
OK, where is the instruction video for the Ferris Sweep Bling MX? I'm sure I saw it somewhere, but can't find it now. I thought it was on Ben's website, but it's not there. In fact there's absolutely no description of the Sweep Bling MX anywhere that I can find. The problem is that the nomen clatures between these various keyboards in the same species are so close that the tendency is to swap one for the other... but the instructions are not the same. I recall that the first time I did this I closed the gaps on the wrong side of the keyboard because I watched the instruction video for the Ferris SWOOP MX! Not the same at all! I had a hell of a time desoldering that mess.
Great video! Thanks!! Do you need power button for the wired build? Since you're linking to it
No, power switch is only for wireless
Some questions:
-Are the sizes different between the different versions? (could I use a case made for a sweep v2.2 with a sweep high?)
-What are the main differences between the Sweep High and the High M?
-Could I use a cirque trackpad with this?
Thank you in advance
The sizes are common between boards with choc spacing and boards with MX spacing. Boards that only support chocs are all the same size, boards that also/only support MX are slightly bigger.
To answer directly; the SweepV2 case is not compatible with Sweep High.
The Sweep High M is a reversible PCB, that's the main difference.
You can't use the Cirque trackpad because the microcontroller pins are all in use. (Also, there isn't space where to put it).
@@KyekOfficial Awesome. Thank you so much for the almost instantaneous reply
@@KyekOfficial One more question: When I loaded the Gerber file for the Sweep High M into JLCPCB, the only mounting holes I saw were for the tenting puck. Is this correct or should there be other holes for the plates?
@@nbredia The plate is held in place by the switches, there is no need to add additional screws for it.
@@KyekOfficial I was talking about a bottom plate
Thanks for this video. Quick question, in the intro you mentioned that this keyboard is wireless, but you didn't solder a battery to either of the microcontrollers. Does the Elite C have a built-in battery?
Nope. If you want wireless you need a nice!nano instead.
Thank you so much for this video! I almost chickened out and bought a pre built keyboard... Now that you have gained more experience building keyboards, do you have any tips for better soldering?
The only things I would change of this video are: buy HASL finish PCB instead of ENIG, and socket your micro controller. (Don't use the included headers)
@@KyekOfficial Thank you!
AFAIK ferris is mascot of Rust programming language. So I expect firmware written in Rust but I can only find c firmware...
Hey! Thanks a lot for the video. If I get a hold of soldering tools I want to make one too.
My question is about the process of uploading software to the microcontroler. Do you need to do that?
To get the most of the flexibility of making it yourself.
Yes you will need to do that. The most common way is to use qmk for wired or zmk for wireless.
@@KyekOfficial Thanks for the fast reply!
I find it interesting that you use two microcontrolers. I guess I'll understand why when I research a bit.
@@KyekOfficial is there limitations on how many keys can be hold?
@@nicolasmagee1780 no
Hey, I know this video is quite old but I have a few questions:
- How do I change some placements of keys if I want a little different layout?
- How do I interface the keyboard with the computer and what software do I use to create something like custom/multiple layers?
Ty in advance. I always wanted to build a keyboard from scratch but at the moment I'm too inexperienced to know anything about this so is there any more technical explanation on this subject or related?
1) Do you mean physical layout or software layout?
2) It depends on what micro-controller you decide to use. The main firmware choices are: QMK, ZMK, KMK, Vial, VIA.
If you're looking to learn how to make a keyboard PCB I recommend ai03's keyboard PCB guide.
@@KyekOfficial I meant both physical and software and thanks for the info on firmware and PCB guide
@@emanueledepaoli3377 You're welcome. You might be interested in Ergogen as well, some people like to use it to make PCBs via code. I never used it, personally but you might prefer that workflow.
Useful video. Thank you.
is it possible to add the little lcd panels on top of the microcontroller to show things like the current layer, etc? awesome build by the way!
Thanks!
It's not possible, but you could look at the swoop instead.
Got my parts ordered and just waiting on the pcbs from jlc
Sick track btw
Hi, i have some cuestions about the High specs on the website. Thanks for your time
So nice ❤️
Keep it up
Just got my order in. Super excited to get this and build it. I do have a question though. Is there any convenient place to build a case for this to rest in? Perhaps a company that 3d prints cases based on your board?
I think there is already a case for it on thingiverse
@@KyekOfficial awesome thank you
I'd pump the heat on the iron up - your solder joints look almost cold.
do you think this is something that some one that has basically 0 soldering experience can do ? with a shitty iron from amazon? im trying to gauge whether or not this is actually doable for me
0 soldering experience yes, just watch a quick how to solder video to avoid the most basic mistakes and you're good to go.
Regarding the tools, it's important to have something that works, Amazon's 20$ irons can be a bit of a dice roll. If it works it's fine but I'd recommend getting a pinecil, ts100 or ts80 instead. It will last you for your whole life and you can rely on it.
Hey mate, can you confirm the PCB option "different design" should be 1 or 2? Github is telling me 2, but it's referencing your video, where you've put 1. Thanks.
Choose 2 designs
@@KyekOfficialoh dear... hopefully the printer figures it out? Thought they were flippable so identical, so put 1.
any update on the blutetooth version tutorial? been waiting for that vid,thanks!
I have decided to not make it because I had some issues and made some mistakes and I don't want people to copy me. Unfortunately I don't have the materials to make another one and film it. Sorry.
How much did this project cost?
Thanks for this video. I order the PCB and all the components. Now I am ready to flash using QMK. The flashing process ask me to reset the keyboard. How do I do that?
Short GND and RST for half a second or press the reset button if you have one
Hey, Thanks for the great guide! I was inspired by yours and Ben Vallack’s videos and I am currently waiting for my parts. I noticed that on his keyboard the elite-c on the RHS is flipped. How did you get yours to be the same way around on both sides?
Which Sweep version did you order?
@@KyekOfficial I used Ben’s version without the top curve. I think he modified Sweep Compact.
@@zhulienzhelezchev7016 That version does not allow to have same orientation of micro-controllers
@@KyekOfficial Ah I see. Thanks! I probably should have done a bit more research before I started ordering stuff 😅. Oh well, next time …
@@zhulienzhelezchev7016 Don't worry, it's not that big of a deal, and if the LED is annoying you can cover it up with some electrical tape :)
A nice prebuilt alternative, btw, would be the Keyboardio Atreus. 44 keys, not fully split but split "enough", small and comes with a carrying case. Hot-swappable. Gets a UI for it's firmware called Chrysalis. A bit less than $200 which is great for what it is. I love the thing. My only complaint is the "pinky column" isn't staggered low enough.
too many keys, these ones are for boomers
im jealous lol
2 question,
1. Can i use MX switch on Ferris keyboard?
2. How you Stick that Rubber?
(Sorry if i too many asking)
You can use MX switches on the original Ferris by Pierre. The version in the video is only compatible with choc V1.
See more info on GitHub.
The rubber comes with adhesive on it. I just push it on the PCB and it sticks.
And btw what do you prefer, tent keyboard vs untent keyboard
I like tenting on my keyboard. But if you have tenting it ruins portability a bit.
This keyboard without tenting can fit in your pocket.
Thank you for making this guide, would be quite helpful for me. How do you find this keyboard compared to the Kyria?
Advantages of the Kyria:
+ Has more keys (better if you are not sure how many you need)
+ Supports fancy stuff like Oleds, RGB Underglow, Encoders
+ The PCB Design is more refined and supports more types of switches
+ Easy to get if you are in Europe
+ Has two official case options and can support other cases like 3d printed or metal
Advantages of the Ferris:
+ Smaller, lighter, more portable
+ Minimalistic, has what you need and nothing more
+ Easy to get from anywhere in the world
+ Has choc spacing (Choc switches look nicer on this board)
+ Easier to build
+ Much cheaper
+ Open source (you can customize the PCB if you know how to do it)
@@KyekOfficial I think I can get used to the 34 keys regardless of having to use Cyrillic on a daily basis. Also find the idea of choc switches closer to my laptop experience. But from ergonomic and typing perspective do one suits you better, or it is more a matter of portability and aesthetics?
@@miroslavbazitov183 I like both honestly. I don't feel one has a significant ergonomic advantage over the other. Except for the fact that the Ferris makes you move your pinky less. I enjoy typing on both devices.
I am also in your same situation because I type italian and german, so I need quite a lot of accents! I access my accent layer by pressing and holding both thumb buttons on the right side at the same time.
@@KyekOfficial I'm curious to try these layouts the-t-34-keyboard-layout(googlable) & obosob (github user) keymap, with proper choc switches, spacing and keycaps. currently have left my Anne Pro 2 with just 34 keys, using qmk+kmonad, but my left wrist is in a huge pain - like never before. may try to print the Kyria template, but I'm also waiting for a Corne... have to resist further purchases
I was also inspired to build a 34 key-board by a layout article. In my case it was "seniply layout". I use a variation of this layout using qwerty and an extra symbol layer.
If your problem is in the wrist you should focus more on tenting than anything else, the layout changes the position of the fingers, not that of the wrists.
In my case the wrists are perfectly fine, I just have a little bit of pain in both pinky fingers. I hope you can get better soon, hand/wrist pain is very annoying to deal with.
If you want you can print a layout tester for almost any ergo keyboard using this page: compare.splitkb.com/
what it is your opinion about the chocofi? still debating between that and the ferris
I like the look and case option of the chocofi but I prefer to have just 34 keys
hey, great vid !
I have remarks : how much does it cost in total (around 100€ +50€ for the pcb ) ?
your discord link is dead
Thank you, I updated the discord invite. It should work now.
The price question was already asked before, I will copy and paste my answer here
There isn't a set price because it depends if you sell your extra pcbs to recoup cost or if you buy just one kit from somebody else, also depends on the stuff you already have and the type of build that you want.
For a build like mine it breaks down like this:
Keycaps - 19,19€
TRRS Jack x2 - 1,23€
EliteC x2 - 39,91€
Choc Switches - 24,45€
PCB Kits x5 - 9,98€
-----
Total: 94€ + Shipping
If you go wireless it will be much more expensive. If you go with Pro-Micro instead of Elite-C and buy cheaper keycaps it will be much less expensive.
@@KyekOfficial thx for your answer ! I'll check the discord
how much would it cost to make one of these (how much did the components cost in total?) I'm seeing prebuilt Ferris' on Etsy but the cost £90, but the build seems to be possible in around £60?
hey @Keyk, what should ne the temperature of the soldering iron? is it 295?
350°C
I wanted to modify the pcb according to my need, but am unable to do so. Moreover I use Easyeda and I think the files are of Kikad. I tried to to import the files but it isn't working at all. U have any solution brother?
That's a bit too generic for me to provide any help. My tip for now is join the low profile discord and ask there in the #help or #design channels. We will be able to help you better with a live chat
I'm trying to understand what parts to buy to make a wireless version
I was hoping to find a "buy parts page" that lists all parts, and simply receive/put together. Even if some soldering is required. But regardless, are there any examples of how long the wireless battery versions last? I haven't seen any online
In the GitHub page there is a list of all the needed parts. In the discord server there is a channel called "where to buy parts" where there are plenty of links for all kinds of things. If you need a list of vendors you can find keyboard stores in kbd.news/vendors other parts can be bought from electronic stores like tme.eu mouser and digikey or from AliExpress.
My wireless sweep lasts 1.5 weeks on the main side and 1 month on the peripheral side. You can use zmk power profiler to calculate battery duration for your usage.
Did you use lead free solder to put up this keyboard? I am considering this build but I am not experienced with soldering so I am not sure if I should use lead-free solder or not
I am a little concerned because sometimes I eat some snacks at my desk. Any advice?
@@adolhunter I prefer solder with lead. But if you use this type of solder then don't eat while you are working on the keyboard as the lead from the soldering can stick to your hands.
@@KyekOfficial I am definitely not gonna eat while I am soldering this keyboard and will be very catious; I am speaking to after I built it, I may occasionly have some snacks during a typing session on this keyboard. Should I be concerned?
@@adolhunter It will not be a problem
@@KyekOfficial Thank you very much! Love your videos!
it seem you use a zmk config but on the discord they said that with elite-c you can only use gmk config ? did you use zmk in the end ?
I upgraded my sweep to wireless with nice!nano and ZMK.
It's correct that Elite-C must use QMK
Hi! Is it possible to change switches in this keyboard? I bought it already soldered with red pro switches 35g, and I think that I don't like them. Thinking about blue ones. How do you think If it make really differece in low profile keyboards?
To change switches you need to desolder them and replace with new ones. I would do this with an SS-02 Engineer solder sucker. Be careful because every switch has one ground pin which will be much more difficult to melt than the other pin.
It will take a few hours to do but it's possible.
@@KyekOfficial thanks for respond! Maybe you tried blue switches? Interesting if it make any difference on low profile keyboard.
@@arnold7stacevich I have never, I don't like clicky switches. But many others enjoy them.
Can I use normal QMK configuration?? I have my corne with qmk and home row mod.
I really like this keyboard, but I will have to get used to using 8 less keys, I have my layout very learned, but this will force me to modify it to have everything I need haha
Yes of course, you can find it here: config.qmk.fm/#/ferris/sweep/LAYOUT
@@KyekOfficial Thanks bro, I'll start ordering the parts!
Im quite new to this, is there a version that supports Gateron G Pro switches?
hello, sorry for posting this so late, but do you know what the difference is between the SMD and TH TRRS jacks, im having trouble figuring out which one i need to buy for this keyboard build. thanks.
You need a THT (though-hole) Jack
@@KyekOfficial ok, thank you for the very quick response!
@@lachlak no problem, good luck with the build!
Possible a dumb question, can you unplug the trrs cables while the keyboard is live (plugged in)? or will that fry the controller?
It can damage the controller. The TRRS plug is not meant to be plugged or unplugged while the device is powered.
@@KyekOfficial Thanks! Yeah, I made that mistake when I made an original Ergodox years ago, just wasn't sure if that's still the case.
If I want a hotswap, what need??
Have a question, and not sure opening a github issue for it is appropriate. Trying to order the sweep high PCB from JLCPCB and they said " the minimum width of plated slot need to be 0.5mm or more, could we enlarge the width of 0.3mm and 0.4mm slots to 0.5mm?" If I tell them yes would that cause issues with the board?
Please open an issue and post the screenshot that they sent you along with the message.
@@KyekOfficial will do. Thanks.
When building the Sweep with nice!nano should I solder the battery to the boards Gnd and Batt+ soldering points or should I solder them to the pinout Gnd and Raw pins. Note I am using sockets and have not installed on/of switch and only get the nano led to light when I connect via USB. I have tested the batteries and they both show 3.94v
The switch is needed to close the connection between BAT+ and RAW.
To assemble the board without a power switch you can either:
• Solder the red wire to BAT+ and the black wire to Bat-GND. Then bridge the two close together pads on the power switch footprint. (the two pads I'm referring to are on the south side of the footprint)
• Solder the red wire to RAW and the black wire to GND on the micro-controller.
• Solder the red wire to RAW on the micro-controller, and the black wire to Bat-GND.
@@KyekOfficial You were right on! That solved it. I now have the first half working, now onto the second half. Looking good so far!
Hi I got someone to build this keyboard for me, looks exactly the same! Have a qn: how do you reset this into boot loader mode? I was told to use a paper clip and short the ground and the reset node, but I can't seem to find it.
You can touch the two solder pads close to the TRRS Port, or check the labels on the micro controller. You should see the "RST" and "GND" labels near the top left corner.
hey, i gotta ask a question? If i buy a pcb from let's say little keyboards will it already have the open source code in it or would i have to install it into the pcb? As i am trying to make a corne keyboard but i don't really understand how to do the code part, i am fine with all the soldering parts.
The firmware is stored on the micro-controller. If the micro-controller you are using supports QMK you can configure it using "qmk configurator" (online tool) and you can flash it on the micro controller using qmk toolbox. No coding needed.
You will need to write the firmware with code only if you need very advanced features.
I don't know if littlekeyboards will flash a firmware for you, but even if they do, it's not common to use the default firmware. So you should want to flash your own firmware anyway.
@@KyekOfficial eh, oh man making the corne is gonna melt my brain. So erm like how would you do that xD, could you send me a link or smth i don't really mind cuz i am relatively new to the split/ergo keyboard community
Is it okay to order the pcb in hasl instead of enig-rohs?
Good question! The PCB you see in the video is HASL finish. As you can see, the contact points have a silver colour. If you order the gerber file from github there is a crab on the right side of the board made of exposed copper. If you order in HASL that crab will also be silver.
Enig-Rohs is a bit more "premium" finish, and both the contact points and the copper crab will look gold.
I suggest Enig-Rohs because the copper crab is "meant" to be gold. But if you don't mind the silver finish feel free to downgrade.
Good luck!
@@KyekOfficial thank you very much
can you add an analog joystick to these?
Bro I like how the crkbd has a display, can we put a display in here too?
and are the microcontrollers special? or are they just arduinos?
The Pro-Micro is an arduino, the elite-c and nice!nano are replacement versions meant for diy keyboards, not sure if they can use arduino IDE.
The sweep doesn't allow for displays but you can install them on the swoop (a fork of sweep) github.com/jimmerricks/swoop
@@KyekOfficial ty so much man, I am hooked on the small display even tho it is useless, but i still love it.
Can I use arduino pro micros?, i saw a guy using them and i can get them cheaper where i live.
if I wanted to build a corne, where can i get the backplate built? i couldn't find the schematics (didn't looked hard enough) can I like DIY it?
@@salman8562 Yes you can use the pro-micro. I have no idea about the corne though, sorry
@@KyekOfficial last question, are kailh robins (the light blue ones) more clickier than the whites?
@@salman8562 I don't know, I've only tried the silvers
Is the keyboard switch sockets that you then solder gold plated or tin plated? I can't recognize from the video if that is gold or silver
It depends on the PCB finish that you pick. Mine is HASL finish which is silver, if you want it in gold you need to pick ENIG finish.
I regret recommending ENIG in the video, I think HASL makes more sense since it's much cheaper.
@@KyekOfficial thanks for the fast reply, I was hoping I will get one. So this does not depend on the scheme in the gerber file, but the print type material?
I am planning to build one with millmaxes and this is why I wanna choose the proper mill max plating. Tin on tin contacts is better than tin on gold for example.
Threeshort questions, any point using the much more expensive pcbway instead of jlcpcb, what about thickness of 2 instead of 1.6, any other options?
For HASL, there is also leadfree, but I guess it is the same in function with no lead.
@@karthusrop1635 ENIG is a more premium finish I don't think you need to worry about the contact surface for millmax pins. By the way, if you want hotswap why don't you go for the kailh sockets?
For the factory just use the cheaper one, results are great from both.
HASL lead free is the same without lead like you figured out.
@@KyekOfficial I guess you raise a good point, maybe in some end built case I can go for a mill max option otherwise no point in spenidng more. Why do so many people go with pcbway though, jlc is ends cheaper?
I have 2 raspberry pi picos would these work aswell?
Hello, can you help me with my build? I don't have any experience in soldering. But with a lot of difficult i did it. After flashing pro micros, my wired version don't works. Just the master side can send input. How i can debug the problem? Any idea?
Can you join the discord chat?
jlcpcb doesn't show the preview and doesn't detect the dimensions, I wonder what i did wrong
edit: the dimensions are specified in the file name so I just used those. still no preview though
That is an issue with JLC's Gerber viewer. Don't worry, just put the dimensions manually and order
It is a beautiful keyboard. Do you perhaps provide a commission build and send it to around the world?
I don't offer build services as I don't have time for it, but you can join the discord server in the description and ask S'mores #6844 to build one for you
@@KyekOfficial I decided to build by myself. I hope it works well. Thank you for providing the guide.
@@m.fajarrakhmadi9629 good choice. Have fun!
@@KyekOfficial Hi there. Can this board use the Kailh Choc V2 (brown) switch? Or should we use the V1 instead?
@@m.fajarrakhmadi9629 V1 only
Edit: Actually, there is a new version (Sweep High) that supports Choc V2 switches. Check github for more details.
Is there any way to add a ThinkPad Trackpoint style pointer to one of the sides?
Do they make a wireless version?
Can I use a different switch rather than kalih choc, it's not available in my region
Yes, just get an MX PCB
Hey could you explain the differences between the v2 pcb and v2.1 pcb? I see that the sides are swapped on the kicad file? Also how would i go about adding oleds ontop of the microcontrollers? Im planning a wireless build with nicenanos!
The 2.0 is just an older version, get the 2.1 since it has a few improvements on it.
I've never used oleds so I can't help you about that but I think you can't add them on a sweep unless you change the pcb in kicad or do some hand wiring.
Have you build it with wireless?
@@ahmedrezk9208 hey, yeah I've since built it with nicenanos that work wirelessly over Bluetooth.
@@tomiem1386 Could we talk on discord please I wanna build my own.
Is this pcb compatible with Kailh Hotswap Sockets choc?
@@rnt-rds sweep bling LP
Do you have to use low profile switches?
There are other versions that use MX switches
how long did this take you?
Ferris doesn't have diodes, how is it possible?
Is the millmax 7305 compatible with the ferris sweep v2.2 and half swept(current version). Can someone point me in the right direction. Thanks a lot
Yes
@@KyekOfficial awesome thanks for the quick response. So I can kick of my order. Much appreciated
Hey complete beginner here does this board not require diodes?
Correct, it does not.
I followed the directions in this video and used JLCPCB to purchase but ran into issues. After I submitted my order they told me it couldn’t be printed because as follows: “the clearance trace/pads to copper grids is too narrow, smaller than minimum requirement 0.2mm”. Does anyone know what I’m doing wrong here? I didn’t edit the gerber file at all, just used the one under sweepv2.
Can you share the email screenshots on discord? I need to see where the problem is to fix it.
Btw this is the first time I've heard of this one.
@@KyekOfficial They responded to me this morning and said there was a mistake in sending me that email. It sounds like they mixed me up with another customer. There was also an issue at the beginning of the process because they said this was technically '2 designs' and not one, which required an upcharge that I had to pay a supplement for. This was through jlcpcb. It was a bit frustrating, but as long as I get them as described within a week or two I'll be very happy. Thanks for the help!
@@MicCheckOneTwo12 This is correct, the V2 PCB includes two designs. This was reported in the GitHub readme file of the v2 board. Glad you got it sorted with JLC
I have created the sweep and flashed the default QMK layout. The left hand is ok but the right hand is mirrored. What did I do wrong?
Nothing wrong. You just need to set handedness! Try searching it in the QMK docs
@@KyekOfficial Thanks for the quick response. I was afraid I needed to setup the QMK build environment but found out that I could use the QMK Toolbox to configure the EEPROM. And now it works fine!
Hey! Thanks for the guide, in having issues with my build, after flashing qmk the orientation of the keys on the right half are flipped, e.g. when I press what should be 'h' I instead get 'l' and vice versa, any idea what's going on?
You need to flash each side with this command:
qmk flash -kb -km default -bl avrdude-split-left
qmk flash -kb -km default -bl avrdude-split-right
Doing this writes handedness to the bootloader and each side will forever know which way it's flipped. You will also be able to plug USB on the right side or use the right side alone.
If you need further help tag me in the discord channel linked in the description
@@KyekOfficial ah ok cool, thought it could be something like that, will definitely join the discord just in case I run into any issues, thanks for the quick reply!
@@KyekOfficial thanks, I stumbled on this too. Also I found this easily done in QMK Toolbox under Tools/EEPROM
do you happen to know how to edit the board in CAD the way Ben vallack did ?
Yes, why?
@@KyekOfficial I wanted to remove the little crab logo although it's cute it's not really my thing and I like how Ben vallack got rid of the rounded
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Can I use regular pro mico, or does it have any advantage to use elite c?
The advantage of the Elite C is just the USB-C port and the fact that it's black, so it matches the board better.
Feel free to use Pro Micro's instead.
If you want you can even use one pro micro and one elite-c.
In addition, the USB port on the Elite-Cs are mid-mounted on the board, hence stronger. Pro Micros are top-mounted so they may break when you plug in the cable. There are ways to make the Pro Micro port stronger like adding epoxy, ask on Discord for tricks to do that.
Has anyone tried to add an analog stick to this?
Edit: I've been looking into this board but wanted to have a analog stick as a solution to playing games that involve many key binds. I've considered altering the PCB myself but my lack of experience makes that task daunting.
If you want to play games I would recommend something a little bit bigger like a Kyria
Any tips on finding a TKL low profile layout to make?
You mean a custom 80% LowPro Keyboard?
@@KyekOfficial I suppose.
@@MatthewHilbertsBaritone I don't know of any keyboard like that except for the Keychron K1 which is a prebuilt. For a custom you might have better luck asking in the discord linked in the description
@@KyekOfficial Thanks.
Hello, I want to make this board with cherry mx switches so I uploaded the sweep high file but it finds some errors with some of the gerber files such as "Gerber and Drill Layers do not align". The swieev2 file is totally fine. Can I build my keyboard with cherry switches with the sweepv2?
No, the SweepV2 is Choc v1 only as you can see from the compatibility chart in GitHub.
The Ferris High is quite new, if you have problems with it I recommend creating a new issue in the GitHub page so the developer can help you.
What silkscreen did you use on the pcb in the video?
It's a custom design that I made using an image of "ferris the rust mascot". I don't have it anymore.
Anyone in India built this keyboard and how much did it cost?
Did you add an on off switch as well? If so, where did you position it?
I added the on/off switch after upgrading to wireless. There is a space for it near where the USB port goes
@@KyekOfficial Oh cool, didn't notice the was a place for it. Is that on the v2? Can you post a picture?
@@idankk Here you go: i.imgur.com/JzFHuGu.jpg
@@KyekOfficial Thank you!
@@KyekOfficial I have 2 question.
1. Since the pcb is not reversible... with nice!nano is it possible to get the usb port on both side of the kb to face outwards (away from the board)?
2. Did you remove the trrs jack when you upgraded to wireless? I have read about trrs jack might cause some damage to the board or the batteries but couldnt find a solid explanation to not use it if on/off switch is present.
Heya! How much did this cost all in?
The price can vary a lot depending on how much you are willing to wait on shipping, component choice, and your location. I would say in general you can expect to spend around 70€ or 80$
Is it possible to get somewhere the PCBs? I can solder anything but have no experience in ordering custom PCBs :(
You can follow the video instructions to order it. It's super easy.
@@KyekOfficial Thank you! Have just ordered everything :) Thank you for the inspiration!
@@KyekOfficial I have one question: I've just tried to look at your keymap, but am not very goot at reading .keymap text file. Is there any way to look at the keymap in more graphical form? (something like vial or qmk online configurator)?
@@marcin.sobocinski i can make a graphical version but I'm not home at the moment. I'll make it tomorrow evening CEST
@@KyekOfficial Oh, that would be nice! Thank you! Let me know where I can get it once you have it ;)
dumb question but how do you get the right hand side of the keyboard working? Im plugged into the computer on the left hand side
Define "not working". Can you be more specific?
@@KyekOfficial the keys on the left hand side type as configured in QMK on the right hand side they don’t type anything when pressed
@@KyekOfficial seems as if the right hand side is not configured
@@jamieclarke321 did you try using the default firmware?
@@KyekOfficial yea just tried it with the default firmware based on your suggestion but still get the same result right side not registering key presses
Do you have to use choc switches?
There are other sweep versions that use other types of switches. I'm typing this reply on my Sweep Bling MX with NK Cream switches.
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