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If you have fuel overflowing all the time the the float and needle is stuck. Take it back apart and make sure the little needle is properly in the little forks and that the needle is easy to move and the tip is not swollen.

@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Hi again, thanks for the reply. I did check that the float was going up and down perfectly. If you mean the needle in the middle,unscrewed it and cleaned the little hole. Or do you mean another needle? somewhere.

@@swedishkev No I meant the float needle at 10:50 Thats mainly how fuel overfills

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Hi again, so l have taken the float away and the pointed needle,did you say that was rubber, the pointed blaćk end. I could not see anything wrong and lm soaking that in brake cleaner, is that ok, or do l ruin that pointed rubber bit. Was hard to see, and was not sure if there was a little hole in that because you called it a needle seat, that's why lm soaking it. If l still have the problem tomorrow, when l reassemble, then l might as well order a new carb.They are as cheap as 40 dollars on Amazon.

Just an update, put all back together, float and needle seat looked fine, no blockages,and primed the bulb hard and now it just pisses out petrol, from that overflow nozzle, that has no pipe on it. Time to give up and order new carb. Best now for peace of mind. Could not trust that carb now. Thanks for helping.

Still prefect. I expect the seal to last many many years. This particular access panel was chosen because it is rated to be below the fuel level. Keep in mind many large vessels have access port on the sides of tanks. And aircraft has dozens of access panels n the BOTTOM of tanks.

If the temp dips low enough to shut off the charge mosfet (32) it has to rise above 41f for a bit before the charge mosfet will turn on again.

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Thanks. It's charging now but not sure why the heaters never came on.

@rkdrury1 no problem! I made the video because I know what it's like to figure this stuff out. Not simple!

Yes, I am always amazed when I look at other places in the PNW and other high tidal areas like the bay of Fundy. The infrastructure and the huge pilings and catwalks on wheels are crazy..lol. Typically we have 2 to 3 foot tides. Floating docks are a rare luxury here.

Yes, they cut power when the water gets to the dock level. For my old lead acid batteries I would have wanted to keep power on as long as possible for having full batteries just prior to power being cut. I always imaging a scenario where water comes in and the bilge pumps have to run continuous. How long could they run? On my old lead acid...not long. 4,5,6,7 hours? On the new Epochs I am sure they could run for a few days. So in the future I will disconnect shore power at last prep.

Well thank you. My goal is always just to share my own experiences. I dont share them to focus on me...but share them in the hopes that others, especially newer boaters, might gain just a bit of information that may help in the future or make boating more accessible to them. There is so much to learn in this boating world..lol.

I am glad you enjoy the videos. I try not to make it about me. Just details of boat ownership...lol. Thanks for watching!

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 I think it is a perfect balance. If I wanted just technical information I could read the manuals. Your personality makes it interesting. You have an impressive set of skills and experience. Your easy going practical and friendly personality makes your content (for me) a joy to watch. Were about the same age, like you I have decades of experience in aviation (not the maintenance side, although I do have an A&P but never used it). When I am notified of a new MV Intrigue- Trawler DIY video I look forward to the content. Take care! - Respectfully

No...but that sounds like a great idea. I cant remember what AME was but it was aviation IIRC. I was a Marine Crew Chief on CH-46E helos from 87-93 and have worked in aviation ever since.

These were pulled chord hand flares.

Yeah..None of the pull cord ones i tried worked. 100% failure. I would definately dispose of those.

They were all locked. But there are procedures to undo all of it. All of this stuff is up and running in my boat now for some time and working great. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks brother. You wont need any of it since you have that fancy new diesel with 15 hours on it..lol.

Big thing for this is to diagnose the smoke type. But if the smoke is unburnt diesel usually its poor injector performance or the exhaust elbow near the injector nozzle that is caked up with carbon to the point it restricts exhaust flow. In addition..look to ensure the intake is not blocked.

I guess it really depends on the injector. These bosch style are very easy and its covered well in the Westerbeke manual.

I like my tools and gadgets 😁

In this case I am running the AC right from the generator. But it gets fed through the Victron Multiplus2 since the Victron unit is a "passthrough" inverter charger. But its all AC all the way. Yes I can run the AC off the battery no problem. I can run the AC and the microwave as long as they dont start at exactly the same time. With the 2 Epoch 460AH (920AH total) I can run the AC unit anywhere from 5 to 9 hours depending on settings and cycling. You could almost certainly get through the night. Problem is you have to put it all back in. That could mean 5 hours of gen run time. I am working to add additional charger capacity right now. DC to DC charger as well as Solar. Id like to be able to reduce charge time from nearly empty to full in less than 4 hours. That would mean a continuous 200-250 amps of charging. Ill have that soon and will cover it here.

The needle valve attached to the float should be free moving. Of its snug that will cause flooding for sure.

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 well I ended up buying another carburetor and I'm going to install it this weekend. I thought the needle valve was moving pretty freely but I just bit the bullet and hopefully this resolves my issue.

@@jza80king Im sure it will. How much was the carb? Dont forget about the spacer warning in the video!

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 yep I will make sure to put the spacer on. It was $60 from southmarineparts. I sent them the model number to confirm the carb.

@@jza80king you really cant beat that...lol. If you are cruising away from home it may be wise to even have a spare..lol.

Haha..caught me too and im a 40 year mechanic! Glad to help!

@tonyrollin402 apologies..being from Florida I don't have any experience with snowblowers. Hope you find your answer.

I will. I have been slacking lately. But I will have more of an overview of the system as a whole soon. Thanks.

I just amended my opinion in the comments. Its terrible..lol. Thanks for reminding me!

I used this for years and it held up great!

Your planned battery doesn’t have this full charge protection warning/charge disconnect. The parameters are mentioned at about 6 mins. Edit: I amend my statement to “I don’t think your planned battery has this…” (if @mvintrigue isn’t sure, neither am I! 😉)

As Jim Duke mentioned the full charge protection parameters are greater than 14.0 volts, less than 3.6 amps, for more than 10 seconds. You can charge to 14.2 but you will enter into full charge protection. Again if you have a single battery not an issue but with multiple batteries you would need to clear the FCP. I dont believe the Essentials or the Dual purpose have full charge protection

Good info - thanks !

@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101The 300AH Essentials will open the charge FET at 14.70 battery voltage or 3.70 cell voltage. The SOC counter will reset at 14.20 so there is need charge to the protection level. Also, the 300AH Essentials calculate SOC strictly on AHs withdrawn and like the 460AH its not very accurate.

@@ErnieBueno-gq4dg yes it does! Thanks a bunch.

@andrazsulic1992 double check...but I believe you can only use the G3 vision charts. But they are very good too.

Both of those would be great too. But the epoxy coated wood was very stiff and I had all materials on hand. IMO the PVC sheets and Starboard aren't quite as rigid for the same thickness. I have used starboard a bunch and I love it. Started using PVC recently and for some stuff that works great too. For my battery trays I used 1/2 birch that had several layers of Biaxial fiberglass and those came out super strong.

I wish I knew too..lol. I paid a ton of money for those Dakotas. BTW the Epoch is still perfect.

Apologies Ross. I am in Yellowstone and cell coverage is spotty. You absolutely need the smart shunt. What I have discovered about Epoch and most built in bluetooth soc meters is the parameters for reset to 100 are set very high and of course can not be changed. This SOC data from the Epoch BMS is what is exported to the cerbo. The ability to set the smart shunts up for full charge detection makes them much more reliable, especially since the 460 Marine does not like to be charged above 13.9. Also the onboard shunt does not detect amps in or out of less than 1 amp. So even at float when the MP drops into float after a full charge the Epoch shunt does not detect the .2 or .3 volt momentary up and voltage fluctuations as lights and other items go off and on. This results in the Epoch soc being off over time. But the victron shunt is still 99.x%. I actually ended up not using comms for charge control. I use the standard MP2 programming and smart shunt for control. The comms work, but will result in charging the voltage to the voltage set in dvcc in limit charged voltage, which you have to set to 13.9v it will reach 13.9 and stay there and not drop to float. Similar to some other simpler batteries that import data to dvcc right now my boat is sitting on SP most of the time so I want to float it. I have watched your channel many times. I suppose you may be doing something with these soon. If that's the case, when I get back from Yellowstone Tuesday if you need to chat about some particulars let me know. There are a few other must know point such as FCP or full charge protection that the Epoch and newest Litime and others are begining to use. If not set right can result in uneven discharge by huge margins.

Probably. As long as the tach is adjustable. The need for the other thingy is because the alernator signal is not even close to what a typical motor is.

This video is now somewhat old. Epoch now includes the cables on thier harness when they ship all batteries. If you didnt get one...just call them and they will send it out. Dont leave a message...just keep calling until someone picks up.

Actually I think that probably fine. If you draw a decent sized load just look at the app and make sure amps relatively equal in thier load sharing. They will never be perfect...but if they are close thats good enough. For instance one batt pulling 60 amps and the other 61 amps...close enough.

TY, One other question if you don't mind. I am full-time and will be swapping these out for my existing batteries. The manual says do not connect them to my system until they are fully charged. Is this really necessary or as long as I stay on shore power until they are full charged I should be fine? (minimal 12 VDC draw) I have 2 multiplus and 2100 watts of solar and thought they would do the best job bringing them up to charge especially connected to the Cerbo. Thoughts?

@@rjoustra1150 If your in parallel its not all that critical. Series it is super critical. If you can turn the charge amps down a bit to say....20 amps per batt for the last 5% that would be good. But as long as you use the 13.9 absorb and 13.5 float you will be ok.