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I appreciate the response. Yes common sense goes a long way, as does the ability to watch, listen, and learn from the mistakes of others or even yourself. I hope you managed to get some useful information at least. As I said in the video, around the 13 min mark, I hit the bearing race with the welder, not the shaft. The race expands with the heat and frees it from the shaft. The shaft was not touched, other than slag spatter, which cleaned up easily. The bearing was sloppy and it was -10 deg in my small workshop that day. I used what I had available, many people don't have a welder at home either. It was a quick and dirty way to get the job done. A torch would be preferred, as it would have helped with the rust, but I didn't have one. Since that video I have put over 2500 miles on the bike, in some pretty extreme conditions, and it is still working great. Zero issues since. As I stated in the video series on a few occasions, I am not a mechanic. My videos are not monitized. At that time, I just figured that I would do a rebuild video project to keep me busy during the lockdowns of the pandemic to keep my sanity and hopefully help a few people out in the process. :)

Yeah I'm having that problem I can not get the tensioner to free up and roll forward so the chain can tighten. Any advice?

In another video in this series I replaced the oem with an aluminum sprague. I ordered a Smadmoto kit from Amazon. It came with the aluminum Sprague, armature plate, bearings and clips. It was around $150 CAN. Well over 1000 miles on it and it is still running strong.

I have put over a thousand miles on mine since that rebuild. I have recently changed the fluid again and there is no sign of any contamination, dirt, water or metal. That being said, although mine was cruddy, the main components were not damaged. I am in Newfoundland, Canada and we have a lot of bog and mud. That red dirt sounds like sandpaper on components. If I was in your situation, I would probably try to get either a used unit or another parts quad. There is more cost to rebuilding yours with the coil shagged up and may cause you more trouble than its worth.

I am still around. I haven't had to do many repairs lately, but will soon do some maintenance videos. I absolutely recommend the SKF bearings instead of OEM or those cheap kits online. I am not sponsored in any way, but SKF is the bearing of choice in heavy industry and are known for long lasting, durable bearings. I recently changed the front diff fluid for maintenance, after about 700 miles, and it was almost as clear as the day I put it in. The front end is working amazing, especially after replacing the armature plate and an upgraded aluminum sprague (see my other video on that). If you are unsure if its the same bearings, my local SKF dealer matched up all of the old bearings and seals when I brought in the worn out ones.

@@blazerguy1971 I'm just replacing my Sprague, got it from moose. Curious where you got yours from?

MIne made some noise at first. I sprayed silicone lubricant around the base and top of the spring where they make contact and the noise stopped. it wasnt as bad as you described though, so that may not be your issue. the front strut basically just slides together, so as long as everything lines up you should be good as far as compression goes. Try some silicone spray, and give it some time to break in. They are quite a bit stiffer.

I am not certain of the translation, but the OEM chain Part Number is S40100RCA000 if that is any help. I used Google translate, but it did not translate properly. "the number on the string" . Sorry my friend.

I am glad it helped you out. It's pretty easy if you follow the steps and take your time. I recently did the rear springs as well. That's not for the faint of heart as the rear springs are under a lot of tension and require a spring compressor. Hoping to get that video up soon. Cheers!

Glad to hear you have another video coming, I'll be watching that too. Just bought my first 500 ho and mine has the same Bambi stance, the guy that sold it to me said it was normal. Yours looks sharp all squared up!

4x4 in reverse (on a Polaris) is only engaged by holding down the yellow override button on the left handgrip. This, according to Polaris, is a safety feature. If it still does not engage when holding down the button, but 4x4 works fine going forward, there could be an electrical problem with the button/harness itself. Make sure the wire harness at the base of the handgrip switch is fully connected by pushing and wiggling the connector and wires a bit.

@@blazerguy1971 Thank you very much for the answer. thanks to you I no longer sell polar fleece! I changed everything on it, to fit in the attic! Nobody told me I had to press the yellow button. today I did the test and it works! I hug you with love !!!

@@blazerguy1971 Hello! I come to you with another request! I have another problem with polaris. It does not indicate on board when it is in stage P (parking) nor when it is in R. Sometimes only R appears to me in reverse, when the lever is pulled on P parking, and when it is in P it does not show anything. I checked the sensor and it's ok. I also checked the resistor module by putting, making a bridge directly and it still doesn't show on my watch. I mention that H-L and N work. Is it possible that the clock is faulty? How can I make it work? Thank you in advance!

The front suspension is definitely stiffer. It took some getting used to as it isn't nearly as soft. The first ride I thought I made a bad decision, it was springy, but after a few trail rides the suspension settled a bit, or I got more used to it. The winch adds weight for sure, but the brush guard on mine must weigh at least 25 - 30 lbs. I think it was a good investment to get rid of the sag and get back some ground clearance, just be prepared to lose the cushy ride on a trail.

@@blazerguy1971 thanks for the reply. I forgot i have a pretty heavy duty brush guard as well. I figured it's going to be a lot stiffer. I'm surprised about the springy. I'm changing the oem shocks at the same time with the race-driven ones. See how it goes. I also have the 700 sportsman so its heavier to begin with.

These diffs are very finicky when it comes to additives or the wrong fluid. It doesn't take much to make them stop working or start slipping. I would usually associate a thumping sound to a bad universal joint. If it is definitely coming from the diff for certain, it is more than likely the sprague cage. There would have to be a lot of wear for the ring and pinion to slip and thump, but a cracked sprague cage would cause it as it is what actually engages to lock the axles. Unfortunately the only way to really know is to open it up.

It can be popped (forced) back in place with a screwdriver or flat bar and some dish liquid. It acts as a bump stop so the shock doesn't bottom out. After some bumpy riding it would get forced back in place eventually, but I would recommend trying to get it in place first.

@@blazerguy1971 Much Thanks your video has helped me alot!

There were a few things that happened prior to me tearing the diff apart. I noticed that when in AWD in mud or snow, the front end used to slip, or engage and disengage. I thought it was electrical at first. Then eventually one side would grab and the other would not do anything, with a lot of creaking noises. I drained the diff fluid and found a lot of dirt and water... and that led to tearing it apart and doing the rebuild. Bearings and seals were shot, and as I found out after, so was the armature plate and the sprague.

Hey, no problem. They are available on Amazon. I can't put the link here but, if you search Polaris ranger front diff, you will find a kit. I just did a quick search and there are kits based out of the US and Canada from All Balls Racing. For example: All Balls.# 25-2065. Please check for your specific machine. They are a generic ATV parts company that our local dealer and many ATV parts websites sell. I don't promote or support any specific brand, but know of that company. I used SKF industrial bearings that were matched from the original's dimensions when I brought them to the bearing supplier's store. Way less costly than Polaris originals, but slightly more than the All Balls Racing kit. Good luck.

Yes, when I recently had the diff apart again for the aluminum sprague upgrade, the diff lube was on the seal side of the bearings. Of course, the option is to remove the seal if you don't feel comfortable with it, but I assure you, the fluid does get through. My train of thought was that the bearing seals will keep the gritty mud out of the bearing if the outer seals failed again. I just got home from a 20 mile ride in wet snow covered trails with AWD constantly engaged and it worked great. No noises. My AWD didn't work at all before and used to make creaking or cracking sounds. If you are familiar with the setup then you know the magnet is what locks the diff. If there is any contamination, including the wrong fluid, water, dirt etc, the magnet will slip causing AWD to not engage. The video before this one shows how full of mud and water my diff had inside. Good luck with it!

I actually had the same concerns, but the bearing rep told me that the bearings were factory lubricated with grease and meant to run in a dry environment, not necessarily in an oil bath. They are not liquid tight, so the diff fluid can still get around them to the outer seals. I actually had the diff apart again recently to upgrade my factory nylon/plastic sprague with an aluminum one and an armature plate off Amazon. After about 350 miles on the front diff since the rebuild last year, all of the bearings and seals are like the day i installed them. No play whatsoever and no leaks. I will be uploading the aluminum sprague video in the future once I get some more miles on the bike to fully test it out. Thanks for the comments.

To the 2nd part of your comment. I am unsure if the 500 ranger is the same, but this diff was used in many models in the Polaris lineup and all operate the same way. Some had an additional component, called active decent control or ADC. I haven't had one of those apart. I cant be certain if the bearings and seals are interchangeable without looking at a cross reference of some sort. As I stated in the videos from time to time, I am not a professional mechanic. I just put these vids up to hopefully help someone figure out a problem and save a few dollars. Have a great day!

2x for CV Outputs) SKF Explorer 6008--2RS1/C3, (1x for pinion shaft) SKF Explorer 6306-2Z/C3, (1x Between the 2 CV Outputs) KOYA NTA-815;PA:L125, DMR Oil Seal 40527-DL DAE, the other oil seal I don't have the number in front of me. BTW these are sealed bearings and I left the seals on them, but they can be removed.

@@blazerguy1971 Thank you so much for the information! You were a great help and the video's are awesome!

Hi, I have a similar bike (2006 Sportsman X2) and I noticed on the weekend that the pinion shaft bearing was gone (destroyed), so thanks for your videos! We're going to do the full work that you show and rebuild the differential. I'm ordering the same bearings you describe, but should I buy the seal kit for the rest or use the seals you list (noting that 1 is missing). I'd like to make sure I put on quality parts, so interested in what you think of buying the Polaris seal kit...

@@blazerguy1971 ​ I cannot thank you enough for your detailed videos and considerate responses to people in the comments sections! I'm planning on buying the SKF bearings that you mentioned here, as my diff is also very sad after I cracked it open, thanks to your video. Do you still have a link to the kit that you bought? My guess would be to get this kit but it doesn't have the o-ring gaskets that I think I need to replace as well: www.quad-logic.com/shop/sportsman-500/front-differential/sportsman-500-front-differential-seal-kit-2/ I'm curious to learn what you decided upon since you clearly know your stuff!

@@jakedowns2882 Thanks for your kind words. I am glad the videos are able to help you, and others. I always say the hardest part of an unfamiliar task is getting the nerve to start it. I did not buy a kit as my local dealer was pretty useless. Instead, I went to a local bearing shop and had them match up all of the bearings and seals. By bringing them in the old ones they measured and matched everything. I don't see any issue with a seal kit like the one you linked. I figured if I was getting industrial bearings, it was just as well to get the industrial type seals at the same shop.

Front Diff to frame mounting bolt torque: 30 ft .lbs. All housing bolts on the diff are 14 ft. lbs

Yes, it worked after it all went back together. I have been using the quad since I did that last winter. Twice? Ugh, getting that diff out is such a pain. I have no play in anything on the diff now, but it was a sloppy mess before. I did drain the fluid and top it up twice since then. First time was a month after the rebuild to flush out anything from the rebuild, 2nd time was just before Christmas. All good so far. I have heard of some of the Polaris with sticking AWD, which I read in a forum was a magnetized armature plate (Keeping residual magnetism) from the electro-magnet. You are welcome, and thanks, glad you like them.

@@blazerguy1971 I also hear about keeping the residual magnetism, so I bench tested it and when power is cut to it, the armature plate does release. One last question, when you flick the awd switch on, does it provide a constant 12v? Mine seems to float from 12v to 4v. Maybe my switch is playing games? Cheers

@@scottmurray9706 it should be a constant 12V. It might be the wiring around the connector being broken inside the outer insulation or a bad ground (Grey wire). It sounds like your diff is actually fine. Stick your meter on a solid ground, like a bolt head, and test for constant 12v at the connector. Have a look at the wiring where it goes into the diff to see if it is crushed or frayed. I had to put liquid tape on mine by the diff casing because the wires were missing insulation.

@Scott Murray, have you done anything to yours? Mine is doing the same thing, and I’m about to tear it open. I have a new carrier and bearings. Hopefully that will fix it.

Its possible that your chain is worn out. Check your front and rear sprockets for wear as well. Other factors could be worn swing-arm bushing or rear axle bearings. I tightened the bolts down pretty tight, there should be no movement of the bolts. Good Luck!! :)

$70 Canadian was the cheapest I found, and that was on Amazon. That would be about $ 45 US. 1 and 2 star ratings poor quality product reviews. Dealer had bearings but they were generic and cost more than the SKF. I live on an Island in the North Atlantic, so locally everything costs more.