Thanks,I have been looking on Amazon & that's where I found the $220 kits but they have conflicting info for the same kit & with no contact info,I didn't want to take the chance when it's coming from China. I also bought the Polaris service manual for all Rangers built in 2005-2006 but they don't list a single part number except for fluids! So I couldn't double check any numbers that way. LOL I live in the boony's so don't have any place I can carry parts to compare.I understand why u wouldn't want to indorse any one parts house but I do thank you so much for any info you could send to us out here where access is limited to say the least.I did searches on the net as well but came up empty.On a different note I see your name as Blazer guy 1971! I restored my 1969 Blazer CST,love that body style! Thanks again! Love to see your truck!
Thanks for your latest reply,You have a good point there leaving the SKF bearing seals in place as extra protection for the bearing in the event the outer seal fails. Good call,I didn't think of it from that point of view. I have always done my own work but am always open to learn more! I watched all your videos on the front diff & if mine is the same diff as yours, your video's gave my a lot of info I don't have to figure out myself so thank you again & keep the video's coming!
Did you get it back in? Did it work correctly? I ask because I have the same machine, and it likes to stick into awd (it does come out by going forward/reverse a few times). I’ve taken the diff out twice, it looks brand new in there. Clean, no corrosion and the cage is not cracked or broken. The axel bearings have slight in/out play, but no side to side play. Maybe that is the cause? Do your axel drums go in/out slightly? Ps, your videos are great, thank you!
Yes, it worked after it all went back together. I have been using the quad since I did that last winter. Twice? Ugh, getting that diff out is such a pain. I have no play in anything on the diff now, but it was a sloppy mess before. I did drain the fluid and top it up twice since then. First time was a month after the rebuild to flush out anything from the rebuild, 2nd time was just before Christmas. All good so far. I have heard of some of the Polaris with sticking AWD, which I read in a forum was a magnetized armature plate (Keeping residual magnetism) from the electro-magnet. You are welcome, and thanks, glad you like them.
@@blazerguy1971 I also hear about keeping the residual magnetism, so I bench tested it and when power is cut to it, the armature plate does release. One last question, when you flick the awd switch on, does it provide a constant 12v? Mine seems to float from 12v to 4v. Maybe my switch is playing games? Cheers
@@scottmurray9706 it should be a constant 12V. It might be the wiring around the connector being broken inside the outer insulation or a bad ground (Grey wire). It sounds like your diff is actually fine. Stick your meter on a solid ground, like a bolt head, and test for constant 12v at the connector. Have a look at the wiring where it goes into the diff to see if it is crushed or frayed. I had to put liquid tape on mine by the diff casing because the wires were missing insulation.
@Scott Murray, have you done anything to yours? Mine is doing the same thing, and I’m about to tear it open. I have a new carrier and bearings. Hopefully that will fix it.
I have two concerns after watching your video,when you replaced your diff bearings with the SKF bearings you did not remove the seals in the bearings,by not removing those seals the diff fluid that normally would flow through the bearing to lube the outer seals can not reach those seals. Those outer seals are then running dry & will burn out making them useless! I also would lubricate all parts with diff fluid during assembly. Other than those couple of concerns I really liked your video! One question,is the Sportsmans diff the same as the 2006 500 Ranger front diff? Thank you.
I actually had the same concerns, but the bearing rep told me that the bearings were factory lubricated with grease and meant to run in a dry environment, not necessarily in an oil bath. They are not liquid tight, so the diff fluid can still get around them to the outer seals. I actually had the diff apart again recently to upgrade my factory nylon/plastic sprague with an aluminum one and an armature plate off Amazon. After about 350 miles on the front diff since the rebuild last year, all of the bearings and seals are like the day i installed them. No play whatsoever and no leaks. I will be uploading the aluminum sprague video in the future once I get some more miles on the bike to fully test it out. Thanks for the comments.
To the 2nd part of your comment. I am unsure if the 500 ranger is the same, but this diff was used in many models in the Polaris lineup and all operate the same way. Some had an additional component, called active decent control or ADC. I haven't had one of those apart. I cant be certain if the bearings and seals are interchangeable without looking at a cross reference of some sort. As I stated in the videos from time to time, I am not a professional mechanic. I just put these vids up to hopefully help someone figure out a problem and save a few dollars. Have a great day!
I have the same diffs in a one-of-a-kind ATV in both the front and the rear--made by Hilliard. The front one shifts in and out electrically and mostly stays in neutral. The rear is always in and there is no control for that. I have had problems with it and have replaced the bearings and seals and it did run fine for several months. Now, however there is a thumping sound when I try to accelerate too fast or use engine braking--and it seems to be getting worse. It runs fine, but it makes that thumping sounds when I gets too much torque on it. Maybe add some limited-slip diff oil additive??
These diffs are very finicky when it comes to additives or the wrong fluid. It doesn't take much to make them stop working or start slipping. I would usually associate a thumping sound to a bad universal joint. If it is definitely coming from the diff for certain, it is more than likely the sprague cage. There would have to be a lot of wear for the ring and pinion to slip and thump, but a cracked sprague cage would cause it as it is what actually engages to lock the axles. Unfortunately the only way to really know is to open it up.
Thanks for the quick reply.Did the gear lube actually get through the SKF bearing/seal to the outer seal making it "wet"? I need to do the same rebuild to my front Diff on my 2006 Ranger 500.Did replacing those bearings stop the noise? Thanks again!
Yes, when I recently had the diff apart again for the aluminum sprague upgrade, the diff lube was on the seal side of the bearings. Of course, the option is to remove the seal if you don't feel comfortable with it, but I assure you, the fluid does get through. My train of thought was that the bearing seals will keep the gritty mud out of the bearing if the outer seals failed again. I just got home from a 20 mile ride in wet snow covered trails with AWD constantly engaged and it worked great. No noises. My AWD didn't work at all before and used to make creaking or cracking sounds. If you are familiar with the setup then you know the magnet is what locks the diff. If there is any contamination, including the wrong fluid, water, dirt etc, the magnet will slip causing AWD to not engage. The video before this one shows how full of mud and water my diff had inside. Good luck with it!
Sorry to bother u again but I have not been able to locate any rebuild kit for my Ranger front diff. except one made in China for $220 thru Amazon with NO contact info. All Polaris dealers tell me they don't make a rebuild kit.Could u please list where you were able to find rebuild kits?
Hey, no problem. They are available on Amazon. I can't put the link here but, if you search Polaris ranger front diff, you will find a kit. I just did a quick search and there are kits based out of the US and Canada from All Balls Racing. For example: All Balls.# 25-2065. Please check for your specific machine. They are a generic ATV parts company that our local dealer and many ATV parts websites sell. I don't promote or support any specific brand, but know of that company. I used SKF industrial bearings that were matched from the original's dimensions when I brought them to the bearing supplier's store. Way less costly than Polaris originals, but slightly more than the All Balls Racing kit. Good luck.
2x for CV Outputs) SKF Explorer 6008--2RS1/C3, (1x for pinion shaft) SKF Explorer 6306-2Z/C3, (1x Between the 2 CV Outputs) KOYA NTA-815;PA:L125, DMR Oil Seal 40527-DL DAE, the other oil seal I don't have the number in front of me. BTW these are sealed bearings and I left the seals on them, but they can be removed.
Hi, I have a similar bike (2006 Sportsman X2) and I noticed on the weekend that the pinion shaft bearing was gone (destroyed), so thanks for your videos! We're going to do the full work that you show and rebuild the differential. I'm ordering the same bearings you describe, but should I buy the seal kit for the rest or use the seals you list (noting that 1 is missing). I'd like to make sure I put on quality parts, so interested in what you think of buying the Polaris seal kit...
@@blazerguy1971 I cannot thank you enough for your detailed videos and considerate responses to people in the comments sections! I'm planning on buying the SKF bearings that you mentioned here, as my diff is also very sad after I cracked it open, thanks to your video. Do you still have a link to the kit that you bought? My guess would be to get this kit but it doesn't have the o-ring gaskets that I think I need to replace as well: www.quad-logic.com/shop/sportsman-500/front-differential/sportsman-500-front-differential-seal-kit-2/ I'm curious to learn what you decided upon since you clearly know your stuff!
@@jakedowns2882 Thanks for your kind words. I am glad the videos are able to help you, and others. I always say the hardest part of an unfamiliar task is getting the nerve to start it. I did not buy a kit as my local dealer was pretty useless. Instead, I went to a local bearing shop and had them match up all of the bearings and seals. By bringing them in the old ones they measured and matched everything. I don't see any issue with a seal kit like the one you linked. I figured if I was getting industrial bearings, it was just as well to get the industrial type seals at the same shop.
I know this video is a year old but I'm hoping you respond I'm planning on doing the differential in my 2004 sportsman with the bearings that you recommended because the differentials are the same as far as I can tell I was wondering if you still suggest going with those bearings did they hold up and work for you because if so that's definitely the way I'm going to go.
I am still around. I haven't had to do many repairs lately, but will soon do some maintenance videos. I absolutely recommend the SKF bearings instead of OEM or those cheap kits online. I am not sponsored in any way, but SKF is the bearing of choice in heavy industry and are known for long lasting, durable bearings. I recently changed the front diff fluid for maintenance, after about 700 miles, and it was almost as clear as the day I put it in. The front end is working amazing, especially after replacing the armature plate and an upgraded aluminum sprague (see my other video on that). If you are unsure if its the same bearings, my local SKF dealer matched up all of the old bearings and seals when I brought in the worn out ones.
$70 Canadian was the cheapest I found, and that was on Amazon. That would be about $ 45 US. 1 and 2 star ratings poor quality product reviews. Dealer had bearings but they were generic and cost more than the SKF. I live on an Island in the North Atlantic, so locally everything costs more.
Thanks again for all your help,I will be watching for your next video!
Thanks,I have been looking on Amazon & that's where I found the $220 kits but they have conflicting info for the same kit & with no contact info,I didn't want to take the chance when it's coming from China. I also bought the Polaris service manual for all Rangers built in 2005-2006 but they don't list a single part number except for fluids! So I couldn't double check any numbers that way. LOL I live in the boony's so don't have any place I can carry parts to compare.I understand why u wouldn't want to indorse any one parts house but I do thank you so much for any info you could send to us out here where access is limited to say the least.I did searches on the net as well but came up empty.On a different note I see your name as Blazer guy 1971! I restored my 1969 Blazer CST,love that body style! Thanks again! Love to see your truck!
Thanks for your latest reply,You have a good point there leaving the SKF bearing seals in place as extra protection for the bearing in the event the outer seal fails. Good call,I didn't think of it from that point of view. I have always done my own work but am always open to learn more! I watched all your videos on the front diff & if mine is the same diff as yours, your video's gave my a lot of info I don't have to figure out myself so thank you again & keep the video's coming!
Did you get it back in? Did it work correctly? I ask because I have the same machine, and it likes to stick into awd (it does come out by going forward/reverse a few times). I’ve taken the diff out twice, it looks brand new in there. Clean, no corrosion and the cage is not cracked or broken. The axel bearings have slight in/out play, but no side to side play. Maybe that is the cause? Do your axel drums go in/out slightly? Ps, your videos are great, thank you!
Yes, it worked after it all went back together. I have been using the quad since I did that last winter. Twice? Ugh, getting that diff out is such a pain. I have no play in anything on the diff now, but it was a sloppy mess before. I did drain the fluid and top it up twice since then. First time was a month after the rebuild to flush out anything from the rebuild, 2nd time was just before Christmas. All good so far. I have heard of some of the Polaris with sticking AWD, which I read in a forum was a magnetized armature plate (Keeping residual magnetism) from the electro-magnet. You are welcome, and thanks, glad you like them.
@@blazerguy1971 I also hear about keeping the residual magnetism, so I bench tested it and when power is cut to it, the armature plate does release. One last question, when you flick the awd switch on, does it provide a constant 12v? Mine seems to float from 12v to 4v. Maybe my switch is playing games? Cheers
@@scottmurray9706 it should be a constant 12V. It might be the wiring around the connector being broken inside the outer insulation or a bad ground (Grey wire). It sounds like your diff is actually fine. Stick your meter on a solid ground, like a bolt head, and test for constant 12v at the connector. Have a look at the wiring where it goes into the diff to see if it is crushed or frayed. I had to put liquid tape on mine by the diff casing because the wires were missing insulation.
@Scott Murray, have you done anything to yours? Mine is doing the same thing, and I’m about to tear it open. I have a new carrier and bearings. Hopefully that will fix it.
I have two concerns after watching your video,when you replaced your diff bearings with the SKF bearings you did not remove the seals in the bearings,by not removing those seals the diff fluid that normally would flow through the bearing to lube the outer seals can not reach those seals. Those outer seals are then running dry & will burn out making them useless! I also would lubricate all parts with diff fluid during assembly. Other than those couple of concerns I really liked your video! One question,is the Sportsmans diff the same as the 2006 500 Ranger front diff? Thank you.
I actually had the same concerns, but the bearing rep told me that the bearings were factory lubricated with grease and meant to run in a dry environment, not necessarily in an oil bath. They are not liquid tight, so the diff fluid can still get around them to the outer seals. I actually had the diff apart again recently to upgrade my factory nylon/plastic sprague with an aluminum one and an armature plate off Amazon. After about 350 miles on the front diff since the rebuild last year, all of the bearings and seals are like the day i installed them. No play whatsoever and no leaks. I will be uploading the aluminum sprague video in the future once I get some more miles on the bike to fully test it out. Thanks for the comments.
To the 2nd part of your comment. I am unsure if the 500 ranger is the same, but this diff was used in many models in the Polaris lineup and all operate the same way. Some had an additional component, called active decent control or ADC. I haven't had one of those apart. I cant be certain if the bearings and seals are interchangeable without looking at a cross reference of some sort. As I stated in the videos from time to time, I am not a professional mechanic. I just put these vids up to hopefully help someone figure out a problem and save a few dollars. Have a great day!
I have the same diffs in a one-of-a-kind ATV in both the front and the rear--made by Hilliard. The front one shifts in and out electrically and mostly stays in neutral. The rear is always in and there is no control for that. I have had problems with it and have replaced the bearings and seals and it did run fine for several months. Now, however there is a thumping sound when I try to accelerate too fast or use engine braking--and it seems to be getting worse. It runs fine, but it makes that thumping sounds when I gets too much torque on it. Maybe add some limited-slip diff oil additive??
These diffs are very finicky when it comes to additives or the wrong fluid. It doesn't take much to make them stop working or start slipping. I would usually associate a thumping sound to a bad universal joint. If it is definitely coming from the diff for certain, it is more than likely the sprague cage. There would have to be a lot of wear for the ring and pinion to slip and thump, but a cracked sprague cage would cause it as it is what actually engages to lock the axles. Unfortunately the only way to really know is to open it up.
Thanks for the quick reply.Did the gear lube actually get through the SKF bearing/seal to the outer seal making it "wet"? I need to do the same rebuild to my front Diff on my 2006 Ranger 500.Did replacing those bearings stop the noise? Thanks again!
Yes, when I recently had the diff apart again for the aluminum sprague upgrade, the diff lube was on the seal side of the bearings. Of course, the option is to remove the seal if you don't feel comfortable with it, but I assure you, the fluid does get through. My train of thought was that the bearing seals will keep the gritty mud out of the bearing if the outer seals failed again. I just got home from a 20 mile ride in wet snow covered trails with AWD constantly engaged and it worked great. No noises. My AWD didn't work at all before and used to make creaking or cracking sounds. If you are familiar with the setup then you know the magnet is what locks the diff. If there is any contamination, including the wrong fluid, water, dirt etc, the magnet will slip causing AWD to not engage. The video before this one shows how full of mud and water my diff had inside. Good luck with it!
Sorry to bother u again but I have not been able to locate any rebuild kit for my Ranger front diff. except one made in China for $220 thru Amazon with NO contact info. All Polaris dealers tell me they don't make a rebuild kit.Could u please list where you were able to find rebuild kits?
Hey, no problem. They are available on Amazon. I can't put the link here but, if you search Polaris ranger front diff, you will find a kit. I just did a quick search and there are kits based out of the US and Canada from All Balls Racing. For example: All Balls.# 25-2065. Please check for your specific machine. They are a generic ATV parts company that our local dealer and many ATV parts websites sell. I don't promote or support any specific brand, but know of that company. I used SKF industrial bearings that were matched from the original's dimensions when I brought them to the bearing supplier's store. Way less costly than Polaris originals, but slightly more than the All Balls Racing kit. Good luck.
I did not find the part numbers for the bearings and seals you used. Did I miss it somewhere?
2x for CV Outputs) SKF Explorer 6008--2RS1/C3, (1x for pinion shaft) SKF Explorer 6306-2Z/C3, (1x Between the 2 CV Outputs) KOYA NTA-815;PA:L125, DMR Oil Seal 40527-DL DAE, the other oil seal I don't have the number in front of me.
BTW these are sealed bearings and I left the seals on them, but they can be removed.
@@blazerguy1971 Thank you so much for the information! You were a great help and the video's are awesome!
Hi, I have a similar bike (2006 Sportsman X2) and I noticed on the weekend that the pinion shaft bearing was gone (destroyed), so thanks for your videos! We're going to do the full work that you show and rebuild the differential. I'm ordering the same bearings you describe, but should I buy the seal kit for the rest or use the seals you list (noting that 1 is missing). I'd like to make sure I put on quality parts, so interested in what you think of buying the Polaris seal kit...
@@blazerguy1971 I cannot thank you enough for your detailed videos and considerate responses to people in the comments sections! I'm planning on buying the SKF bearings that you mentioned here, as my diff is also very sad after I cracked it open, thanks to your video. Do you still have a link to the kit that you bought? My guess would be to get this kit but it doesn't have the o-ring gaskets that I think I need to replace as well: www.quad-logic.com/shop/sportsman-500/front-differential/sportsman-500-front-differential-seal-kit-2/
I'm curious to learn what you decided upon since you clearly know your stuff!
@@jakedowns2882 Thanks for your kind words. I am glad the videos are able to help you, and others. I always say the hardest part of an unfamiliar task is getting the nerve to start it. I did not buy a kit as my local dealer was pretty useless. Instead, I went to a local bearing shop and had them match up all of the bearings and seals. By bringing them in the old ones they measured and matched everything. I don't see any issue with a seal kit like the one you linked. I figured if I was getting industrial bearings, it was just as well to get the industrial type seals at the same shop.
I know this video is a year old but I'm hoping you respond I'm planning on doing the differential in my 2004 sportsman with the bearings that you recommended because the differentials are the same as far as I can tell I was wondering if you still suggest going with those bearings did they hold up and work for you because if so that's definitely the way I'm going to go.
I am still around. I haven't had to do many repairs lately, but will soon do some maintenance videos. I absolutely recommend the SKF bearings instead of OEM or those cheap kits online. I am not sponsored in any way, but SKF is the bearing of choice in heavy industry and are known for long lasting, durable bearings. I recently changed the front diff fluid for maintenance, after about 700 miles, and it was almost as clear as the day I put it in. The front end is working amazing, especially after replacing the armature plate and an upgraded aluminum sprague (see my other video on that). If you are unsure if its the same bearings, my local SKF dealer matched up all of the old bearings and seals when I brought in the worn out ones.
@@blazerguy1971 I'm just replacing my Sprague, got it from moose. Curious where you got yours from?
Do you have torque specs for the four bolts that hold the front differential to the frame?
Front Diff to frame mounting bolt torque: 30 ft .lbs. All housing bolts on the diff are 14 ft. lbs
They are only $40 for the rebuilt kit
$70 Canadian was the cheapest I found, and that was on Amazon. That would be about $ 45 US. 1 and 2 star ratings poor quality product reviews. Dealer had bearings but they were generic and cost more than the SKF. I live on an Island in the North Atlantic, so locally everything costs more.