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I am supposed to go to ONKYO RZ50.. I need a av receiver who does justice for all kinds of music sources and Movie sources via PC.. I Hope this will work out... Any compatible speakers.. ... Do i need to buy #DIREC LIVE CORRECTION.. o audyssey only built in #audyssey for the configuration.. Please do advice bro...

Спасибо! This is the only detailed review of these speakers!

Your review was great. Easy to understand, covers everything I wondered about.

Why are these new AVRs so damn complicated, notably in the video passthrough section, compared to older ones? In my old Onkyo 605, there was ONE video passthrough setting - HDMI MONITOR YES or NO. That was it. The Denon video passthrough settings are so confusing - and I'm not even SENDING the video from my Panasonic UHD Blu-ray player through the AVR-X2800....

Is it comparable with the Marantz Cinema 60?

one of the best explianed videos about anything ever on RUclips. Awesome 👍

Great video! For home theater do you put the f200 equal apart then from sitting distance?

Sir thank you i have subscribed

I feel 2.1 is perfect for me. Denon x4700h powerful enough to drive 4 ohm Magnepan lrs? If yes, then I am happy. Any spec on current?

Why is it upside down?

All you need is $20000 subwoofer cable, and a $10000 power cable! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Hi thank you for the review. I would really like to hear your thoughts, how would you compare these with Polk R700, I understand they may be completely different league but so many great reviews on Polk even by Andrew. And is it even possible for you to hear one and give your honest opinion. I heard couple videos on you tube of both of them and ML sound way better Thank you

This is completely not true. You use a y at your output so that both your subwoofers can have a left and right input. And so can your amplifier for your Tower speakers or surround sound? Your subwoofer will perform significantly better with a left and a right compared to an LFE channel.

I have 2 amp`s ROTEL RB-991 that I have conneted to 2 Cerwin Vega XLS 215. 1 per speaker and I have been thinking about selling the 2 Rotels, but they are a classic amps soo I really dont want to.. I was looking at Crown amps XLS 2002 and 2502.. Would anyone here have sold 2 twin Rotel RB991 if they had them.``??? When I play on my Amp, you can here that the CERWIN VEGA speakers need ALOT more power.. Thanks for every answer I can get

I recently purchased the 3800 for $1,271. It's perfect with pre outs for 11 channels and 4 subs !. I have 7 external amp channels and drive 4 Atmos speakers 1 sub and Buttkickers with this unit. I didn't need to spend $3,000 for 150w per channel which is limiting headroom. Inexpensive upgrade for 4-8k and Dolby Atmos, my main objective.

The XLS Crown amps are great class D amps. Their largest attribute is the massive amount of dynamic range that they add to a system. I do agree that they do not color the sound, so they are application-sensitive. They have three variable band pass filters, they sound precise, they’re very adjustable and is easy to use, they’re efficient and very powerful, and I’ve never heard their fan or any other unwanted noises. I am using pair of mono-blocked Crown XLS 2502s @ 4Ωs 2400 watts each, to drive a set of Skar DDX15-D2, 1000-watt RMS sub woofers in my home theater. I do recommend that the subwoofer amp that you use, is rated higher than the max power your subwoofer speaker is rated for. I also own two Crown SLX 1002s which are also used as sub drivers. If you use the RCA inputs on these Crown amps, even at the .775volt sensitivity level, the amps will only run at about 60% of their rated power. If you need them to run at full power, use an unbalanced to balanced converter. I run an ART Cleanbox Pro between my theater amp and the two Crowns. Using a cleanbox is simple. After you connect it and adjust its gain, it's just part of the connective wiring. But this converter is often not needed, as these Crown XLS amps @ 60% power, have more than enough power to drive most conventional speakers.

You're not doubling anything. You're splitting a signal, both channels will retain the same voltage. The only reason it might solve that issue is both channels on the sub are now loaded. Meaning that the auto function requires both source channels to be active in order to turn on. Don't speak on things you dont understand. You'll get people more confused than you are.

This is 💯%NOT TRUE !!IT Makes my subwoofer I have SVS and I have Klipsch Subwoofers both produce more sound so what you're saying is not true my friend I hate to tell you but using a splitter will give that amplifier on the back of the subwoofer more input which in turn will give more output guys trust me I have been doing this for over 30 years I have no reason to Lie !!

I have 4 AURA bass shakers in my sofa , I use 2 external plate subwoofer amp from Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier , with parallel connection and all of then is connected with a Y splitter to my Denon 3800H transducer sub output , i use the plate sub amplifier so I can control the frequency without using a mini dsp

got this receiver a year ago , upgrade form Pioneer Elite LX505 , before had previous Denon models also but this receiver (3800H) have everything you wish in a receiver for a good excellent price without sell your kidney . I have it in preamp mode with 11.4 speaker set up and is amazing how is sound. You want to sound even better , safe yourself a big money and buy the Audyssey app for 20.00 dollars and get for free the EVO A1 script , I will assure you don't regret to use this free calibration tool vs paid a expensive dirac live license

I'm saving up to get the Marantz Cinema 30 and be one and done with it for years to come.

Excellent review man. Subed.

Schlub a dub dub...

Roon gives you a bunch of metadata, not the actual track.

Best sound and disk is my favourite, Eagles farewell one tour

One of the honest reviews. Thanks mate, orderd one today. Coming from 1700 H.

I’m using a 20yo Pioneer Elite avr rated at 140wpc, 8ohm running 2 channels, 20hz-20khz. Driving a pair of Polk ES20 bookshelf speakers, plenty of power on tap. Loads of analog and digital inputs including Phono and hdmi, plus sub and preouts and bass management. Great burr-brown dacs too. I don’t know why avrs get such a bum rap for stereo.

Your suggestions work fine for multichannel set up, not so much for true hi fi 2.2 two channel set up. For those of us who are true hifi two channel first enthusiast, the old fashion sub integration for music is also necessary. In my case, I have a Hegel h390 Integrated amp driving the main channels. The receiver does the processing and drivies the remaining channels (HT set up). I do my cross over at 110hz for movies, and at 60hz for multichannel concerts. However, the Hegel is also used for two channel duties and my subs are fed a seperate line out ( subs receive LFE from receiver for multichannel set up, and also line in from the Hegel h390). In the 2.2 set up, the main speakers receive full range frequencies as do the subs, but I set the sub internal low pass to 110 hz, and the gain on the subs is a good 15 dbs lower than the HT set up. Please note that this 2.2 sub integration is the way subs have been integrated for two channels for 50 years. Hey, I'm 64, and into the hifi addiction since 19. Thanks for your contribution to the community.

That's right you need to go out and get your KY-Cable... Lol

Thanks for this great review. I know it's the f200's we're reviewing here, but I have to ask - Do you or anyone here have experience with, or a qualified guess on how the Anthem MRX 1140 Receiver would handle the f100's for 2ch and 5.1ch. The 1140 is amazing and have a lot of power for a receiver and works really good on my 8ohm Polk ES60 2.1 and 5.1 setup, but I worry a little bit about how it would handle the 4ohm f100's speakers, specially in a 5.1 setup and if I were to get Martin Logans Center and surround speakers as well.

I have powerful 2 channel amps and formidable full range speakers to go with them. They basically qualify as end game systems for music. But, I also like 2.1 or 2.2 for music and an AVR is the best way to affordably get over 100 WPC/8Ohms, plus sub outs with comprehensive bass management. Even pre HDMI AVRs are good for this purpose, with many of them built like tanks and able to drive 2Ohm loads. The old one I have can even be bridged. I have 2 AVRs just for 2 channel music. I use them more than anything else.

Thanks. I've been looking to make additions to my bedroom setup that will still work with my exiting ML XTi series. Not identical, but the previous series has gone out of stock.

This is by far the best video I have found on setting up base shakers/tactile transducers. No one seems to mention that these things need to be tuned, especially if running from the LFA on your receiver. So, thank you for putting this together! I am hitting the exact problem you are describing. System fully tuned and timed using Audyssey One (A1 EVO) (it's amazing, by the way Google it if you have not heard it ) on my Marantz SR6014 receiver. I currently have two independent subwoofer outputs, each connected to its own subwoofer. I recently purchased four Dayton Audio BST-300EX. One for my chair, and three for the couch, with an individual amplifier for each shaker. So, power is not my problem. When I run the sub output from my headphone amplifier into the shaker’s amplifiers, I get amazing power. Can barely turn it past three. When I run the LFE out from my receiver, using the Audyssey One corrected LFE corrected output, virtually zero sound unless I crank the shaker amplifiers about three quarters of the way up. I do have two miniDSP 2 x 4 HDs. Sounds like what you are saying is I could split the LFE output from the sub 2 output, and run one straight to the subwoofer, and run the other into one of the mini DSPs. Then I can boost the gain and adjust the EQ to add back whatever Audyssey removed from the receiver's LFE’s output? Is that possible? I watched another video where I downloaded an app for my android phone, called Accelerometer. I can place in my actual sitting position and measure the variance in the vibration in 5 Hz increments from 5Hz up to about 60 Hz, where I would cross over. I can do this just using simple test-tone videos on RUclips. So, basically use the accelerometer instead of a microphone to get the measurements to boost or subtract certain frequencies. Would this work? Anyone else have any input? All input appreciated. This has been making my head ache for a month now! Either way, I hope you come out with that new video soon! Sorry to be so verbose. Typed this too fast!

I only have a 3.1 setup, i don't need to pre amp a huge amount of speakers

I just have svs bookshelf speakers svs center channel and sb 1000 subwoofer for this 3800h

Have this BLU-RAY disc and love it too. How about reviewing JOHN WILLIAMS LIVE IN VIENNA ?!? Got this disc from Germany thru a friend of mine that lives there. My best regards from BRAZIL !!! 😊

Are these harsh at loud listening sessions, treble wise?

Your conpression issues on the Arendals must be a bad tweeter or something else. The arendals are thx certified and measured by tons of reviewers and are know to perform at high spl. I own the 1723s towers and have no problems whatsoever. Watched dune 2 at reference and it was great. That soundtrack true hd is no joke. 😂

I have a Yamaha AVR with one sub-out. I connected a splitter to connect a Sony Sub but the sound was to low vs. the same Yamaha Sub that is both connected to AVR sub out with splitter. I tested the Sony Sub in Sony AVR and its load. Any thoughts on this?

Actually, I am a recording and mixing engineer and we just filter out at 60Hz with third oder filter and around 18 kHz so I think there's no contents that has data on that low end and high end area. Why do you wanna pay more for that area?

How do they compere to the New svs elevetion ultra, or kilipsch rp 800 mii?

Wasn’t worth it to me when you can pick up a pair of 60TXi’s on close out for 2 grand. The F200’s are great but at $2749.99 each my decision was an easy one. The 60TXi’s look great in Red Oak too! 👍

Bought the splitter in my case it didn't make any changes compared to single mono RCA in the red port

Very interesting review. Im struggeling between the 5 x Monitors of the non S and the 2 towers and 3 monitors in a 24qm living room with an 9 qm dining room extension. With what is said the 5x monitors are better with a 60hz crossover in home theater?

Seems like a lot of RUclipsrs are getting into sound demos of their systems playing particular clips which won’t restricted such as that infamous Ready Player One scene. Have you considered doing a video where you demo that racing scene on your Martin Logan’s? Could also be a nice cutaway while you review the whole system as an ML system or simply an Anthem Receiver review? Just ideas… cheers

Me: Marantz AV 7005 pre, Yamaha M85, Marantz CD6006, SVS sb12, Sunfire D-10, Wharfedale EVO 4.2's, I haven't heard anything better yet, stay separates, stay gold pony boy!

Good video. Basic electrical. Ohms law.