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No, we manufacture plastisol screen printing inks. However, I do believe that the color communication principles apply to waterbase systems as well

​@@ICCINKYou're mixing plastisol? What's the benefit of that verse buying a ready mixed color? Just matching a specific color?

@@DSDCustoms Correct. Many companies, sports teams, brands, etc. often request their logo to be printed with their exact PMS colors. Color communication is crucial in assuring that the PMS color the requestor is requesting matches with the same color the printer is using and that we have the formulation for.

@ICCINK Send me link to the system. How does you ink compare to One Stroke?

@@DSDCustoms Hi, Kieth Stevens here. I believe that our color matching system is better than pretty much anything out there. There are simply so many variables to consider, but... when considering all the factors that make a great ink, the UltraMix 7500 series hits all the best of the best. Clean and accurate colors, low to no buildup. low cure. consistent quality. and USA made at a fair price, there simply isn't another that hits all the attributes the same as our 7500 series does. screenprinting.iccink.com/screen-printing-inks-by-series/7500-ultramix-pantone/

Which country are you from? (De quel pays êtes-vous ?)

Hi, the inks used on this print are regular plastisol inks and do not dry on the screen. They can be used on both, automatic or manual print presses.

Yes, we do

No, this was regular Water-base Discharge. We no longer carry this product, though

Hi Dan, it's a bit like comparing apples to oranges...The Paramount does have a bit better bleed resistance than the Cool White. Both have good hand feel as well

Oops, forgot to mention that in the video. All the colors were mesh 250, the Optilux Reflective 507 was printed using 150 mesh

Hi, we don't sell direct, so each distributor's pricing is slightly different. However, the suggested pricing for a gallon is around $80

I like street fighter 2 better,I use for everything poly and blends

@@brianrolins5411 Blaze was formulated specifically for cotton fabrics. So if you are using an ink that is made for poly or low-bleed printing, please be sure to take the necessary steps to prevent ghosting from happening after curing. Certain cotton dyes may react with poly inks and cause ghosting.

thank you🫶

The coating thickness and OEM is dependent on a number of things. The most important thing is that there is enough emulsion. Must feel it. There are measuring devices that people like Saati and Murakimi sell. I usually do a 2 on the shirt side and 2 on the ink side to force the thicker coating through the mesh and thus a thicker coating is achieved on the shirt side (dry the emulsion with the shirt side down). This can all depend on the type and viscosity of the emulsion. If a 2/1 coating gives you the desired thickness, then stick with that. Doing a face coat on the shirt side after first drying a previously coated screen can help a little with the quality of the coating but it adds very little additional thickness, but it does fill the voids and helps with edge definition. Do check with the emulsion manufacturer on what they recommend as well.

Our seps are done by Vizion, vizionct@gmail.com

Here's the reply from Kieth - MDF will work. I like to find broken Formica counter tops at Home Depot or Lowes. They may give you a fair price if it is chipped. The Formica is easy to clean and has a decent durable surface.

Noted. Have passed on your comments to our product manager.

Thank you! FX Gel Gloss Clear 3809

no, son tintas de serigrafía

It depends...Go ahead and try using the 900 series without the catalyst. After curing, be sure to wait a couple hours and then do a scratch test. In most cases, we've found that the 900 worked without catalyst. If you print a light (white) color on a dark neoprene color (red, blue, black for example), and dye migration issues develop, consider using our Guardian Gray 7043 as an underbase. This video we did about printing on neoprene can coolers, has more tips: ruclips.net/video/ot5WcuO1gIk/видео.html. It's using our Cool White instead of the 900, but the 900 will work great.

@@ICCINK Thank you very much. Wait couple to Scratch test, is a very practical info for me. It could be the same on cotton, poliéster,etc (with 7500, 700 or 7600 series)?

@@NW-uc9ew yes. Ideally you should actually wait overnight before doing a scratch test. That way it gives the ink time to fully cure. Same with dye migration... sometimes the dye migration happens hours or days later...

On cotton, blends, and poly, you can also do a stretch test once the fabric is cooled down. If the ink cracks, it means the ink is not fully cured. Plastisol ink has certain stretch properties. So if the ink is not fully cured and cracks when stretched, it means the components were not able to fuse properly from a lack of heat. The ink may also come off during washing

@@RefirementForSuccess Thank you very much. Precious information🙏

Hi Shannon, yes, it can seem like a lot and it's not for every printer. Transfers are great for the team sports market or tourist markets as well as online sales. The image can be printed in multiple sizes all "ganged" on a sheet and include multiple images as well (such as for full front, left chest, tagless labels, etc...). The transfers can then be applied to various sized garments or styles of garments in seconds and to order; that way the shop doesn't get stuck with hard-to-sell sizes or garments that have already been printed. Transfers are ideal for the team sports market as direct screen printing 25 different numbers/names, 25 different teams and all of these teams having different colorways can take a lot longer to produce then to produce transfers. It’s all about what process works best for your shop and clientele and whether you can make a profit on either direct printing or printing transfers.

Hi Jon, that is the magic question. There is no exact answer as many variables play in to this. For example, how tight the mesh is, how big the image size is, or even the viscosity of the ink. For example a Poly white may require additional off contact. A thicker substrate may also require more off-contact. The main point is that the screen should lift off IMMEDIATELY after the squeegee passes. When the mesh is very tight, you can even hear a "pop" sound as the squeegee passes over the substrate.

We are based in Cerritos CA! Our address is 166th Street, Cerritos, CA :)

Thank you for your kind comment!

Yes, I checked with our separator, and he did do a 4-color process

@@ICCINK Ahhh, thank you!

@@celticmandoplayer we used the three fluorescent colors for this "atom" print as well ruclips.net/video/zD45c2We7WM/видео.html

@@ICCINK Thanks again! I forgot about that video (yes, did watch it way back when). You've got my mind buzzing with ideas!

Yes. Starting at approximately the 7:40 minute mark, you'll see how we first print it via 110 mesh screen, then flash, then flattening screen, and then we printed the design again through a 160 mesh screen

Since we do not manufacture water-base inks at this time, we can't really advise you on this subject. We have not done any testing with a water base product on poly. Sorry.

Gracias por preguntar. Pronto prepararemos un video más detallado cubriendo el "matt down screen"

el nuevo video esta listo: ruclips.net/video/h-XyJgIpjYk/видео.html

Hola ,¿ el flash cure es de lámparas infrarojos de onda corte( infrared short wave) ? Muy bien por ICC por hacer videos en Español , saludos desde Argentina