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I like this car stock but i would think there''s a little more angle to be had from the dangle than I'm achieving. Aftermarket gyro might be the ticket (Beaver's hobby has an awesome run down of the ones worth buying) I like being able to tune the controls but the old school part of me knows that patience will get you there eventually when it comes to the driving. These cars like very delicate steering control which is why I hope they add a duel rate knob to the next version of the radio

Thanks for your feed back...i wll drive it as is and see if i get better 45 mins of driving a 2w drift car is nothing..Plus its just fun and different...

Old projector screen turned over (on top of carpet). It's not bad but I added some cardboard sheets from the dollar store to smooth it out better

Posted a review a while back... it drives so different I was a little torn at first but it is definately better out of the box and that metal body is really nice. With a set of the rubber tires it is a totally different beast, but it's also a pound of steel hurtling at anything in it's way. Hat's off to LDRC, they're really doing something unique

It's about .2mm, probably too thin

@@drivetowrench2709 gotcha

Nope

LION, think it's in the specs

Proportional, runtime varies depending on which speed mode you're using (fast, faster, crazy fast), I'd say 10-15 minute minimum. Lots of short races on a charge, no problem. I don't recall what they claim off the top of my head but I did look at their numbers claim and it is believable.

Yeah, there's a fine line price wise. For me a lot of the high end stuff is a waste of cash but to each their own. Unfortunately it's not usually the bearings (not in these for sure), because that would be too easy. There are definately poor quality bearings out there but they usually just don't last very long (especially if you get them wet and/or don't clean them). I've seen quite a few out of spec drive shafts and some are just really really bad. Somewhat comically, the only ones I've ever gotten that were totally useless, the CVD pins were too short and they would come apart almost instantly and it's not easy to get pins for cheap. Unfortunately it's a bit of a crap shoot...

I did, there's a note - less weight, more twitchy gyro like the plastic cars, so I'm not sure the gyro is different. Might be that the servo is a little weak. The 1899 chassis is super stiff so it's hard to test without the body on. You need the stiffer springs/sway bars to run the heavy body, the plastic body springs are way too soft

Einfach Metall gewichte Einkleben ,fertig 🤷🏼‍♂️

Old projection screen flipped over

Thanks. Lowest speed mode is definitely a little more controllable. Silicone spray on the tires makes it even more drifty and it still seems to handle more or less the same for me. A little silicone spray on the suspension (apply with Q-tip) also solved one side that was a bit sticky (it's not oil and doesn't leave sticky residue)

@@drivetowrench2709 A little more steering angle would help but at that price you cant ask for more.

Nice! I'm pretty sure these are going to get very popular. Nice to hear that people are modding them

Can you show us how you added rear suspension? My next goal.

@@EidstaRC how I can? Telegram?

@@EidstaRC how I can? Telegram?

3D printed. There are a bunch of projects on my Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:4289498

@@drivetowrench2709 nice 👍

I guess we can share the misery :^( Gotta admit, I'm stubborn and haven't totally given up yet but hope is fading. I do love this thing in 4WD

I'm running it with diff locks... works fine

I don't know. They both look like stock AM32 as far as the GUI (check out the project to see the GUI you get with the code). I couldn't find a published project specifically for either ESC but I didn't look that hard. Hopefully they embrace in to the notion of community developement if they sell enough of these things

Rhino has a different ui but this uses AM32 open-source firmware. Basically the exact same programming as Holms Hobbies crawlmaster v3 and anything else that uses Am32

No it doesn't. I bricked mine after flashing Rhino's 80A ESC firmware on it thinking that it is the same firmware seeing that it is a clone of the Rhino. But it is also AM32 so I guess the parameters are the similar. I am still on the hunt for the firmware of this ESC so I revive mine.

@@napstersgear3696 At minimum, always make sure the processor is the same before you flash the firmware and if you can't ID the processor, I would never recommend flashing. The screenshots I've seen show the exact same version number of BL32 for the Rhino which (to me) means no reason to flash it unless you change the code in some way for better performance. When I same the same version, that does not mean the processor on this ESC isn't a different version or a different processor entirely. When you build firmware you specify the processor and potentially things like pin assignments and if you get anything wrong the board will not function or become bricked or go up in smoke. It's important to make sure you figure out the details if you're going to flash a board. Hope this helps.

They are standard crawler width approx 200mm and identical to TRX4 (which I believe the 1001 is a clone of, right?). The other factor is wheel offset. No promises, but I wouldn't expect problems

@@drivetowrench2709 Thanks, I have wheels with 0 offset. When I used wheels with negative offset, the rubbing was very bad. Thanks again for reply.

Pretty much nothing fits. Arms, diff case width etc all different

@@drivetowrench2709 copy.

I don't have a mini-z but I believe the diffs are essentially the same width as a Mini-Q/Wltoys (bearing to bearing) which is too wide. The bodies should fit if you have the right wheelbase and fat/thin tire setup and are capable of installing magnetic mounts (some DIY probably required). Got a video coming on the kit with the Mini Cooper body, which I believe is intended for Mini-Z. The other issue is wheel openings, meaning suspension travel and caster adjustment can create rubbing, so if you play with the setup of the car, the body fit may suffer. Got a video coming on the kit with the Mini Cooper body, which I believe is intended for Mini-Z that covers all this

Thank you for your help!

Very cool. Keep an eye out for deals on Enders. My opinion, when it starts to get old a new one makes a lot of sense and then use the old one for spare parts. I consider myself pretty patient and I rarely give up trying to fix things, but 3D printers are one of the most finicky things I have experienced and there are people who preach all kinds of crazy time wasting, bordering on cult ritual type stuff. I bought a Kingroon KP3S cheap and have done literally nothing to it and have had so much fewer problems than my old Ender that it made me question hundreds of hours of effing around... of course, the biggest issue by far is inconsistent fillament quality

@@drivetowrench2709 it's definitely irritating when you hit that print button and it gives you turds! 😒🥴😅 This thing has been threatened to be dragged down the road in my truck so many times now! Kinda crazy, but, I stuck a q-tip underneath the belt to tighten it up yesterday and it's working! 🤷😅

Yup, but it's almost double the price (or more cdn)... Seems hard to justify a gyro that costs as much as the car unless you're going to use it in something else too (for most people)

Its like 25 bucks to US, but absolutely worth it. The driving is that much smoother. ​@drivetowrench2709 but i do know you guys get hit with unnecessary taxes on imports.

Probably... not all tire bead size is the same (annoying) it's hard to predict without owning every single type of tire. These type of wheel usually can be made to work but install can be a bit of a pain. Use a longer screw to get started and if the bead is too thick, be prepared to leave a little gap in the middle between the two wheel halves (not ideal but functional)

@@drivetowrench2709 oh wow, I thought I was the only one with this issues as the back piece didn't was to sit flush with the middle brass piece..ok I'll see what I'll do..thanks!!!

Yeah, when you order from the other side of the world an unfortunate part of the equation is that support isn't really an option. People ask me to sell stuff I make all the time and there just isn't any money in it if you're not in China. One of these LDRC cars would have to cost at least 50% more if you wanted to get proper support, probably more considering how many come out of the factory needing a little tweaking. The other way to look at it is that we get stuff cheap and the community is the support, we just need to avoid over paying ;^)

Old projector screen flipped over. Concrete is like sand paper. Not the end of the world but drift tires are more finicky than you might think...

Yep i agree with that man i also just did the gyro on a few of mine and that alone is a huge upgrade

I was almost feeling like I was crazy because it's a piece of spring steel, how off can it be? Yeah, I've got some shocks I'm going to put on... should be much better

@@drivetowrench2709 if its the ldrc comp shocks use grease and cut a few rings of the springs

@drivetowrench2709 yeah one caused the back right to be floppy and not hold up at all and the same effect with the front one