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Jonathan Harris at Worldwide Camera Exchange
Великобритания
Добавлен 5 июл 2021
Worldwide Camera Exchange is a UK-based photo dealer specialising in high quality used cameras and camera equipment.
We buy and sell Leica, Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Sony, Fuji, Panasonic, Zeiss, Voigtlander, Contax, Hasselblad, Bronica, Pentax, Schneider and other top-end marques.
To check out reviews from our customers please visit reviews.co.uk
We buy and sell Leica, Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Sony, Fuji, Panasonic, Zeiss, Voigtlander, Contax, Hasselblad, Bronica, Pentax, Schneider and other top-end marques.
To check out reviews from our customers please visit reviews.co.uk
Leica CL rangefinder film camera
Leica CL walkthrough. Jonathan discusses the camera's main features and highlights what to check when buying.
Просмотров: 402
Видео
Nikon F camera walkthrough. Describing the 1959 Nikon F camera's main features.
Просмотров 712Месяц назад
Jonathan walks through the main features of Nikon's first SLR camera - the Nikon F.
Leica 6 bit coding. Why and how to code Leica M fit lenses. And why you MUST if using an SL2 or SL3!
Просмотров 9472 месяца назад
Why and how to code your Leica, Zeiss, Voigtlander, TT Artisan, Thypoch, 7artisans and other M fitting lenses. Jonathan discusses the advantages of using 6 bit lenses with M digital cameras and the additional benefits when using the SL2 or SL3 with image stabilisation. Jon also explains how to convert you lenses, including using the Akara 6 bit conversion kit 00:00 Introduction 00:50 6 bit codi...
Canon EOS 5D Mark III camera
Просмотров 2,7 тыс.3 месяца назад
The 5D Mark III offers exceptional value for money. Far cheaper than the later Mark IV and pro spec mirrorless cameras.
Leica users - this is the one book you should own
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.4 месяца назад
The Leica pocket book is a valuable source of information for collectors and users alike. The 9th Edition is now available - updated to 2022
Leica R lenses: 1 cam, 2 cam, 3 cam, 3rd cam and ROM - what's the difference?
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.4 месяца назад
We explain the differences between the Leica SLR lens mounts - and how this affects use on Leica film and Leica, Nikon, Sony, Canon, Olympus, Panasonic mirrorless cameras.
Rolleiflex cameras - what to check when buying
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Jonathan runs through the checks to make when buying used Rolleiflex cameras.
Rolleiflex walkthrough - featuring Rolleiflex 3.5f camera
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Walkthrough describing the Rolleiflex's main features.
The pinnacle of camera design? A 1979 Nikon F2
Просмотров 3,2 тыс.7 месяцев назад
How can the Nikon F2 be a better camera than a modern digital Sony, Nikon or Canon? Modern equipment can give you too much with innovation marching ahead of what photographers actually need.
Hasselblad 500C or 500CM? Don't trust the name plate!
Просмотров 3,6 тыс.7 месяцев назад
It's a Hasselblad oddity. Some Hasselblad 500CM cameras are badged 500C! I explain how to tell them apart!
Contax G2 camera walkthrough
Просмотров 3,3 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Contax G2 camera - features and background. Also what to check when buying secondhand.
Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III. Fantastic value full-frame digital cameras.
Просмотров 9 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Beautifully made, professional spec. Canon digital cameras. But what do you look out for if buying secondhand? Jonathan runs through the primary checks if buying on the used market.
Leica (Leitz) IIIc screw rangefinder walkthrough
Просмотров 2,7 тыс.9 месяцев назад
I describe the Leica IIIC's main features and talk about essential pre-purchase checks.
Mamiya 645 Super, Pro and Pro TL cameras
Просмотров 7 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Main features and differences, the Mamiya 645 Super, Pro and Pro TL 645 medium format film cameras.
Hasselblad 500CM camera walkthrough
Просмотров 3,5 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Hasselblad 500CM camera walkthrough
Nikon D850 digital SLR camera - buying secondhand
Просмотров 11 тыс.Год назад
Nikon D850 digital SLR camera - buying secondhand
Buying Leica M cameras - M3, M2, M4, M4-2, M4-P
Просмотров 7 тыс.Год назад
Buying Leica M cameras - M3, M2, M4, M4-2, M4-P
Hasselblad 501CM camera walkthrough - 501CM body, A12 back, waist level finder and 80mm CFE lens.
Просмотров 6 тыс.Год назад
Hasselblad 501CM camera walkthrough - 501CM body, A12 back, waist level finder and 80mm CFE lens.
Leica 35mm f2 Summicron M - the King of Bokeh
Просмотров 8 тыс.Год назад
Leica 35mm f2 Summicron M - the King of Bokeh
Nikon FM2 (and FM2n) camera walkthrough
Просмотров 8 тыс.Год назад
Nikon FM2 (and FM2n) camera walkthrough
Mamiya RB 67 Pro SD camera; walkthrough of the last RB 67 model
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.Год назад
Mamiya RB 67 Pro SD camera; walkthrough of the last RB 67 model
Leica Leitz IIIg (3g) camera walkthrough
Просмотров 6 тыс.Год назад
Leica Leitz IIIg (3g) camera walkthrough
Mamiya RZ 67 camera walkthrough (mostly covers Mamiya RZ II too!)
Просмотров 6 тыс.Год назад
Mamiya RZ 67 camera walkthrough (mostly covers Mamiya RZ II too!)
Rolleiflex T twin lens reflex camera walkthrough with essential buying tips.
Просмотров 14 тыс.Год назад
Rolleiflex T twin lens reflex camera walkthrough with essential buying tips.
Understanding Leica M Rangefinder Cameras. Essential viewing if you're buying a film or digital M
Просмотров 14 тыс.Год назад
Understanding Leica M Rangefinder Cameras. Essential viewing if you're buying a film or digital M
That was rather awkward. Get better organized before you start you session. Just forget it actually
Such a valuable channel, big thanks!
As a boy I bought a Minolta 303 in 1977. It worked great for many years. Like many Minolta enthusiasts, I was disappointed when the company decided to cut with the past by massively adopting electronics and modifying the mount of the new lenses (which Nikon did not do). Then I switched to digital; now I have a beautiful Fujifilm but do you know what I'll tell you? The enormous possibility of maneuvering the menu commands mostly confuses me and makes me lose the pleasure of the simplicity of the past. I am also aware of the possibility of an irreparable breakdown of the delicate electronic circuits. So, I returned to my dear Minolta and, surprise, after decades of inactivity locked in a drawer, it still works perfectly. I found a very well done manual on the internal construction on the internet and I discovered that the little electronics present are basically based on simple copper cables with traditional soldering at the ends, very easy to replace. The only "delicate" parts are the photocells integrated into the pentaprism, which I believe can be recovered. Another market philosophy, memory of a time when things were made to last and be easily repairable.
Hi, I enjoy your videos, no nonsense and no musical crap, exactly what I like. I like the look of this camera but think I would go for the Leicaflex SL2 although I would love a Minolta CLE, pricey though. I recently bought a Voigtlander Bessa L and I know you have done a review on a Voigtlander, but would love to see one on this particular camera, especially lens and hotshoe finder choices. The reviews I have seen look at 12 and 15mm lenses, which is pretty wide for my liking, and the Turnit finder I think is the better option? Interested to hear your views.
The modern Voigtlanders are fantastic. From a user’s perspective a better option than 50 year old Leicas! Ideally go for an M mount model so you have the option of M mount or screw mount lenses. Some of the M mount Voigtlander lenses are astonishingly good (eg 50mm Apo Lanthar).
Nice review. I inherited one of these about 25 years ago and the meter promptly went out. I sent in for repair and it has been reliable ever since. It’s a great little camera that easily fits in a coat pocket.
A lousy camera in either model, Leica or upgraded Minolta! Friends had them, all faulty..
Nice video….its a fun Leica to use
Thanks!
Great video. I had one mint in the box, the meter still worked great. I immediately sold it for close to what I paid. It just made me nervous that it would break.
There’s a good argument to buy them discounted with faulty meters. They’ll be cheap and still very usable!
I use a FM2n and a Zf. Both of them together has helped me greatly. The FM2n gives me full manual control, but the Zf gives me endless composition practice and the ability to see in black and white through the viewfinder and read in grey tones. The Zf in manual mode is not much different to my FM2n.
Both great cameras.
Hey so you know anything about cotswold cameras ? Is this a genuine website?
Hi there. Do you know if it’s possible to change the 1/4inch thread on the 503cx to a 3/8inch thread? So I can put a pistol grip on? Cheers :)
Not easily. Far easier to buy a pistol grip with the correct fitting.
Hello Jonathan, would you also be prepared to talk about some of the features of this camera?
Thanks Jonathan, Your video is very helpful. I have 500C and can not take of the lens. Followed your instructions about winding the screw but when I opened bottom door it looks that there is 2 silver screws. I do not know which one to wind? Thanks
The screw in line with the lens cocking mechanism. If you have any doubts you should contact a Hasselblad repairer.
Super useful - thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks very much for this. Very clear and concise. Finally I know the model I have! 🙂
Glad it was useful
Dear Jonathan, thanks for this very clear video. My 500cm is currently jammed, and unfortunately your method did not solve my problem. When I turn the screw, I can only rotate it some 180° after which it jumps back (as if there was a spring behind). I did not force too much, so the camera still remains blocked. Any suggestion?
You’ll need to get it checked by a Hasselblad repair specialist. I expect the camera and/or the lens will need a service.
5:35 But why is this method more convenient? Personally, I have never had to deal with such an invention - I only saw it as a historical exhibit, I looked into the viewfinder, but it was too short to assess the comfort of use. Sometimes I tilted my camera's LCD screen to aim this way. But this was rarely useful. Actually, only when I wanted to put the camera on the table for better stabilization and it was difficult to keep my head so low. However, this is the second time I have heard that this method of aiming with such an antique camera was cool and I am curious about more detailed explanations. Was this particular type of viewfinder somehow better at this viewing angle, or... what exactly is going on? :)
Some people love the handling, others hate it. It’s personal.
@ I've heard that in this type of viewfinder, "left is right and right is left". What if I put on a penta prism? Then the picture is normal? Meaning, I assume there is a roof pentaprism used there?
Yes. A prism will correct.
@ And please tell me: since in this camera the upper lens is used specifically only for aiming and, of course, focusing, is this upper lens somehow... specifically adapted to this task? Better for aiming? Better for focusing? Does it differ significantly from the "bottom" one? I guess that the lower lens should be particularly "bright", in the upper one it probably doesn't matter, but are there any other differences?
You might try a rangefinder folding camera, the french ones are still affordable and have super HQ Tessar clones as lens, try the Royer Royal or Lumiere Lumirex III or the Telka III both make pictures as good as a Rolleiflex. You can still find them for very low money.
Hi Jonathan, Apologies for the late comment and many thanks for this very clear and informative video. I have ordered a LeicaR6 (not the R6.2) and I’m trying to work out the appropriate batteries for it. You mention 10 L14, but I don’t seem to be able to find these online anywhere. Would a replacement be LR 44 and/or SR 44. Or something else? I’d be very grateful if you would comment. Many thanks.
10L14 is the same as the SR44
That’s great, many thanks
thank you so much for the video! i’m wondering if you had any experience with the shutter being stuck. mine won’t depress all the way as if the lock is on.
It’s not an issue I’ve encountered. Probably best to have a Mamiya repairer check it over.
great video, thank you!
Thanks - glad it’s useful
Key to dating Hasselblad cameras, magazines and accessories (but not lenses): VHPICTURES, where V=1, H=2, P=3, and so on. Serial numbers begin with two of these letters and they are the last two numbers of the year of manufacture.
Buying Hasselblad? We explain how to decipher Hasselblad date codes to identify year of manufacture ruclips.net/video/bRS-W_vxpDk/видео.html
Key to dating Hasselblad cameras, magazines and accessories (but not lenses): VHPICTURES, where V=1, H=2, P=3, and so on. Serial numbers begin with two of these letters and they are the last two numbers of the year of manufacture.
Thanks for commenting
Hello! Great video thanks. Why are there two wind-on dials on the right hand side of the camera? The larger one with pull out crank is for winding on after each shot, right? What's the one at the bottom towards the back for? Thanks!
The dial on the back is used to load film when the back’s off the camera.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange oh right! So I don't need to touch it when shooting?
No, the main crank will do all the work
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks for the response!
I just purchased a Leica M6 before Christmas on the strength of your videos and I am now watching you over again dropping golden nuggets on my next purchase a Hasselblad 503 CX or CXi from a fan in Spain thank you for your stellar work.
Glad they’re useful - thanks
LOVING THIS VIDEO! It explains my Nikon 55mm 2.8 AI Manual focus lens in a very straightford manner..BIG THANKS! HG from Chicago
Thanks - glad it was useful!
No mention of the interchangeable back variants or how to remove the door. Do you cover this on another video, please? Thanks.
Thank you for your comment. Are you referring to the bulk film, scientific and Polaroid models? These are interesting from a collector’s perspective only. A topic for a future video but not relevant here.
@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you for your prompt response. I'm actually replacing the damaged standard door and can find no information in the downloaded manual as to how this is removed. It's quite a tome however, so I may have missed that particular section.
There’s a silver pin on the inside of the hinge which you need to pull down to remove the Nikon F2 back.
A very helpful and informative tutorial, thank you! The question I want to ask is did you ever use 135 back on Mamiya body? I understand how it works but before I'll dive in that pool just lookig for a bit more information and also to your knowledge is Katzeye focusing screen available for Super, Pro or Pro TL or they come with one originally? I used to have 645 1000s ages ago and it was by far one of my fav film bodies but my understanding is that 135 back made for the use with interchangeable back only...
Yes, Mamiya did make a 135 back but it only works with later cameras with interchangeable magazine.
@ thanks, I’m thinking Super, Pro or Pro TL for it, I’d love to have autofocus body but maybe later I’ll get one.
I love F2, with its A or AS viewfinder. it's a monster build like a tank but there's no need for it if you simply want the total control: a FM, FE or even a Nikkormat FT3 or ALMOST whatever other film reflex camera can do the same thou it's not maybe so good. I just found out a F3 HP in A+ condition. I've always wanted it since a was a kid and used to watch Nikon fliers with cameras and lenses like they showed some story that I periodically used to read from the start. I'm still considering buying it but I have 2 nikon F, 2 nikon F2, one Nikkormat ft3, one nikon EL 2, 2 FE and 2 FE 2, mostly left by my dad in perfect condition. I took in my hands the F2... it's fully mechanical but it has almost the same features of F3 and it feels bolder so I see no reason to buy the F3 having F2 if not just for collection. FE 2 reaches even 1/4000 has a synchro speed of 1/250 . So I gave up the idea.
I'll do some search but I wanted to understand if this camera has a depth of field preview button. Thank you I really like it thou it feels too plastic-ish. ETRSi looks bolder but I don't like it has some ackward and umconfortable mechanism and the normal lens is 75 rather than 80. Mamiya 645 system also feature a 35 that is what I would go for landscape. While ETRSi just stops at 45 unless you pick the fisheye. I'm still undecided between the two anyway, thou my preference is for Mamiya.
Спасибо.
Thanks a lot for the video 🎉
Thanks. Hope it was useful.
Don't need the 40 odd megapixels this camera offers . Each to their own . A D810 and D700 as backup work very well for my requirements .
I've got a few manual film cameras including a couple of F2's. They're big, bulky, heavy and slow compared to modern digital stuff, but I think they're way more involving to use. A degree of knowledge is required with fully manual film cameras which is mostly absent in digital cameras (manual settings accepted of course). The reality is that many people just use the 'auto' function and let the camera decide.
Don't rip us off then. Then, we wouldn't bother. The UK is known internationally as being very Mug rich. Cars, for example. Dealers KNOW, you WANT to pay MORE than your neighbour has for his POS. Manufacturers have also noticed. Dacia, once prided themselves on flogging sub 10K cars...until they noticed 'we' WANTED to pay more for their products. They're catching up, and on, fast. Skoda went the same way years ago. Stop making absolute Crocks' and slap them with a Premium notion; VAG (Skoda? Seat? Both notorious Crocks once upon a time, now, just as shite but no shite'r than ), Mercedes Benz, BM Trouble U? Discuss:- Mercedes Benz fine automobiles saturating the taxi ranks abroad? When we ditched the EU what happened to imports from America? The excuse, some time ago was, "They were imports from outside the EU", now? Some other excuse now no doubt...! Stop ripping us off! With everything. No-one expects a free ride, or minds paying for stuff...some of us mind like hell paying for stuff that's half the price abroad. Does it really cost so much more to transport stuff to Ripoff Britain than it does to take it to Lithuania? That little old Channel Crossing is it? Sail a couple of hundred more miles, after sailing thousands? Or is it just nice Ms Reeves cut?
Two more usfull pieces of information: Nikon offered for some time conversion to AI, the ring with the prong was exchanged, unlike in user-"converted" lenses, where it was milled of filed. And, AI lenses work perfectly well with todays full-frame DSLRs.
I’ve recently got myself a beautiful Nikkormat FTN and even though the chap in the shop had explained the lens choices to me briefly, this explanation was so helpful! I now understand I can use any of the lenses that have the rabbit ears as they were all made to be compatible with earlier models. Great move Nikon. Thanks for the video and the info!
Glad it was useful. Enjoy your Nikon!
Finally a very technical and professional explanation of the difference between the Biogon and the Distagon. At the end of the day the optical difference is not so much (I have both and love them both), what completely change is the shooting approach: with the CM you can focus with the 40mm as using a normal DSRL, with the SWC/903 I prefer to shoot like with a 6X6 “small” large format camera using the glass adapter, I mean with that speed and time for reflection, instead of almost blinding shooting only using the viewfinder mocking a real TTL shot. Great to listen someone who really understand those wonderful gears! 👏👏👏
I've been shooting an M3 double-stroke with a 35mm Summicron for several years -- no goggles, no frame lines. I just use the full viewfinder window as my "approximate" field of view. It may not be 100% accurate, but I have never really noticed anything off in any of my shots. Generally speaking, the edges of the frame are not usually the most critical area of the composition, and if anything objectionable was to creep into the frame as a result of my lack of precise framing (which I don't remember ever happening to me with the M3) I could presumably get rid of it with a slight crop. All this to say, in my experience a 35mm lens works just fine without any special treatment, goggles, etc. And a 35mm on a Leica is a sweet thing!
Yes, with a bit of practice it’s a good way to avoid bulky specs and viewfinders. You can do the same with 28mm lenses on the M2 and M4 cameras.
you didn't mention the flimsy plastic battery compartment holding six aa's, otherwise great video thanks
Yes, you’re right. Very prone to corrosion from leaking batteries too. Should definitely be checked!
Great video. I have the 3.5 F but the aperture and shutter dials are linked so you’re getting the same exposure just different shutter speeds and aperture value as you turn them. How do you disengage the link between the aperture and shutter dial???
Change the setting on the left hand front dial between the two lenses. If you’re not sure you can buy/download user manuals online.
Jonathan - I keep buying old cameras and when I have to operate them all I find are your videos. Already happened with some hasselblad cameras, the RB67 and now this 😂
I'm thinking of planning a trip to where you are (I'm assuming somewhere in England), meet you in person and purchase some cameras from you.
This tutorial saved my trip in Venezia!!! Thank you brother, for such simple way to unlock the camera during my trip. The camera got stuck and I was losing my mind…. watched the video in a cafeteria and borrowed a screwdriver from a local camera store and unlocked it in 5 seconds. Huge thanks again
Glad it was useful!
Thanks for that informative video. I have a question regarding the AE prism finder; does it actually set the aperture in shutter mode or shutter in aperture mode, or is it strictly a meter requiring manual setting of both aperture and shutter based on the meter reading?
Super helpful video. Thank you!
Glad it was useful!
Have you done anything on hyperfocal focusing?
My two front dials are stuck and only rotate a little. What do I do?
You’ll need to send the camera to a Rollei specialist for servicing. It’s not an unusual problem.
Thank you very much!
Hope it was useful!
Hi Jonathan, I was gifted a Bronica ETR, the older ones with the one lever on the back rather than twin. That thing is a little pain but it does lock on and I can spool my film to 1. No problem using the main twisty dial on the back. I can also advance the film using that. However, I can’t get the film to advance properly using the hand crank. That hand crank is needed to open up to the back of the camera to prime it for shutter release, and that part works fine. But I can take a photo, crank one revolution until it stops me, take another, etc forever and it will never advance the number. I can hear the film rolling but I’m afraid to open the back. Where can I find a dummy roll? And do I need to service the hand crank or could I be doing something else wrong? Thanks so much for your videos I’m so happy I found your channel. Cheers. Happy new year.
You’ll need to get it checked and serviced by a Bronica repairer.
Is mirror locked up very expensive to fix
Impossible to say. It might just need servicing but could be something more serious.