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Wow can't believe how some simple cleaning made so much difference, it is very encouraging, Thanks for sharing this 😀😀✔✔⭐⭐⭐⭐have a nice day

Nice video :) Those steam locos do look amazing. I've captured a few on camera as well. And a nice bonus train at the end.

Lovely train and rain. Excellent ❤👍

Great video thanks for sharing, lovely little Triang locos, J

Great to see you back.

👍 great video thanks for sharing, what year did you have these DMU's I've got a couple with no lighting in so i guess mine are early Triang, J

Another great video, looks like we're both enjoying getting model railways running around again, love the channel, thanks for sharing J

Great video thanks for sharing, I love messing around with these old Triang/Hornby items, keep it going Ktf J

Another great video, it's fun getting these old Triang/Hornby locos running again after years of storage, really enjoy your videos and thanks for sharing, John

Great video thanks for sharing, J

Bought one in 1978. Still going. Nice loco. Always need a noisy one

Thoroughly enjoyed your video and no-nonsense commentary. Sorry to hear you've been ill and hope you are on the road to full recovery. If you found a source for the tender's traction tyres, please do share. You have a good bargain. I'm awaiting delivery of my Ebay Royal Scot and your step-by-step video has been a great eye-opener for what to look out for. Thank you!

Be careful with the break fluid it destroys some plastics regards Sam Woodward

Im so happy, PAD HAS RETURNED

Bless you! 😊

Nice to see you back!

No your all wrong it's a CHOO CHOO..

No, its an EMU not achoo achoo! ; > )

Love these Class 31's I've got 4 Hornby ones, they all run okay, I've also got a Lima and 2 Airfix 31's they run quitier than the Hornby ones, but model railways are fun, J

Welcome back, Padshaw. 😀

The GW box van in this set is very rare. You normally see this set with an Arnold sands open wagon but the inclusion of this van is odd. Great video!

Welcome back! I hope you’re on the mend!

Pad! Youre back! I was watching one of your videos a few minutes ago wondering if youd post again! I even used your old lima 08 repair video to repair a 5 quid bargain from a carboot sale! I hope youre feeling okay buddy, and its great to hear that youre back home and recovering - get well soon man!

Padshaw your back! :D i was worried you'd never come back.

Pad are you alright

You could try a bit of plasticard behind the buffer beam and then fit a new buffer

Hi there ,, I bought 1 of these on the weekend unboxed locally and the guy said it was goer. Haha. Far from it as it siezed solid when i pulled it down there was a staple in it and unknown chunk of steel and both drive axles were chockablock full of cotton thread as to why i it didnt go. So i done exactly what you did and pulled it all down and cleaned it all out and reassembled it. Boy oh boy ,, what a dilema getting the armature in with the 2 solid chunks of steel in. It was the first time I have pulled one of these to bits and the most trouble i had was lining up the plastic bearings and put it all back together. I tried it with a 9v battery and the armature moved a tiny bit then stopped. I tried a few other point of contact to get it going and nup no go... So I pulled it all apart again and checked it for continuity between the commutator segments with a multimeter and 2 segment were ok but the 3rd 1 nup no good & a no go ,, so i know have the same issue as you do where I have to buy 1 or fix the broken wire that has come of the segment. I looked on line too and there is 1 and here in Australia too but its 60 bucks pludps 11 bucks postage. No description if there is continuity between segments oh and they want an exchange too. I suppose if im going to have to do an exchange armature I may as well fix my own 1 for free as the second hand can fizz out at the drop of a hat and in the same boat. I was also thinking outside the square and putting 2 small can motors and put them back to back and try to get them to line up with the drive cogs and just make sure they fit onto the drive cogs properly. As im typing this i just remebered that you can buy double ended can motors quite similar to what is in the Athearn Loco motors that run on the rubber bands that go down to the drive wheels. I suppose its a thought hey. Cheers from john in Australia.

I always like scouring ebay for retired cheap hornby models cause alot of them go for about £30 to £80 plus alot of them are boxed

That contact cleaner is excellent for cleaning motors etc. I use it all of the time. I first saw it being used on 00Bill ‘s RUclips channel. I also use those little jam pots. I put a little amount of meths in one for cleaning wheels etc with cotton buds.

Hello. You seem to be on the same "journey" as myself! After decades of doing other things, I too recently returned to the hobby and opened my suitcase full of unused Triang/Hornby model trains. Like you, I have examples of the class 31, 37 & 35. All of mine were slightly older than yours, as none had rear bogie pickups and all had the type of motor you found in your Hymek. Sadly, the Hymek was beyond repair, but I used various parts from it to serivce the 31 & 37.l, both of which are now running well. Being a GWR/BR Western Region fan, I decided to buy a used Hymek, this time a later example in two-tone green, with a Ringfield motor. It cost less than £30 and as far as I can see, it has never been run and in perfect cosmetic condtion: makes a change from some of the dross I've bought 2nd hand! As this video is a year or so old, I'm sure you're familiar with OOBill's channel, and that silicone grease seems to be the modellers' favourite. I've now subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more of your retro-OO adventures! PS: I also salvaged the buffers off the 35, which were made of brass...

Another very enjoyable video happy new year 🎉👍

I forgot to say that when I got this loco 40 years ago, the front bogie would not negotiate 2nd radius/small Hornby points well. So I removed the spring under the bogie and it has not given any trouble ever since. I don't know if this might help others.

That does look the same as my Pannier with smoke. The smoke unit takes the place of the weight (from what I can recall) and uses another gear locked on top of the drive gear to operate the piston that pumps the smoke out, I think.

The Lima always looked better than the Hornby as it had the correct coupling rods.

I have the pannier tank with a smoke unit. Maybe it was your intention to put that into yours?

Great video and one of my favourite hornby trains nice to hear emu s running in background 😊 excellent presentation 👍

It's a shame that the plastic on Airfix products particularly has gone brittle. I have had one of these since the mid 80s but it has only run for about 6 years in total. The keeper plate also cracked on mine and I have superglued it with a piece of plastic with success. Mine is hard wired to DCC and I have yet to summon the courage to service the motor. But it runs remarkably well and it's slow speed running is perfect for such an old model, so I am going to leave it until it starts to misbehave. It also has good pulling power.. Mine isn't quiet either. Anyway, thanks for a great video. Really thorough and helpful

Well presented and filmed with lots of close-ups, I enjoyed the content as many of us try to keep the older models running, thankyou

A 1 A is wheel arrangement. A = powered wheelset.... 1= not powered . CO CO all wheelsets have motors 1 CO CO1 Peak class 45 1 pony truck Early to mid 1970's model . All Hornby stuff made in China now

Airfix bases do crack from age and over-tightening perhaps I use the existing base as a template for a thin styrene re-enforcement over the whole base to hopefully prevent any more cracks developing (plus super glue in the existing cracks).

Looks great, Pad - amazing work! I, too, am in fact trying to fix a royal scot/patriot class by mainline, but the motor magnets have failed! Once again, lovely work!

A tip for you and others, when refitting screws into plastic, turn the screw anti-clockwise until you feel or hear a click (this means you have found the thread in the plastic) and then screw in clockwise. This stops you cutting another thread which will weaken the plastic in time.

Those printed plastic buildings are worth keeping ... for your new garden railway!!!

Good find Pad. Look forward to seeing them on the layout!

I think possibly the black vents on your engine shed belong on the goods shed. I own the goods shed and the engine shed you have without the roof and they have those black vents

i love a bargain will keep you busy over winter

That is a wonderful box of goodies. looking to forward to see how you repair and use them.

Very useful box of bits! I'd recommend using revell contact glue to stick the glazing back in as super glue will cloud it up and make it look frosty, you could use PVA too if you havent got any revell glue

Excellent video

Something about that vintage 0-6-0 really appeals.