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Moore Jason Martin Timothy Miller Steven

Thompson Margaret Brown Michelle Walker Maria

you forgot via 4 in 1 v 4.35. it enables AGP 8X on VGA. Took me years to realize it and I made it work yesterday with same Thin Client

Will Basiliski II run on an intel mac with the Ventura OS? Sheepshaver crashes on launch, although it runs fine on the previous OS: Monterey. Thanks.

Wow, look how nice the studio is. And the quality of the footage is 🤌, makes me want to bust out my Digital laptop.

Can i use this to emulate macos 9?

Thanks so much for doing this! Man this brings back some memories. I remember doing this SO many times 😂.

I forgot how terrible that Digital wallpaper was! I think it was a similar restore process with some of the Digital PC's I used to work on. Fortunately NT4.0 workstation wasn't too far away and most customers ended up with that instead.

Ne vous excusez pas ! Merci pour cette vidéo qui va m'aider.

It looks so good! I'm jealous!

Can you do this on Windows XP?

Crap, I just spent fortune on one of those.... If it doesn't work (sold as "mint / almost new") then... one person less on the planet .... :/

Looks so good Rich! I’ve totally got studio envy. Camera giving a great image too.

That's a great little setup. You've done a super job on it

Oh❤❤❤

Looks great!! I'm very jealous of the space!! Looking forward to see what you film in there next!

I know it was loads of work, looks like it came out great!

I love what you've done with the place. You've created a proper room! Seems to be the right way to turn one of those prefab sheds into a nice isolated room that has no issues with moisture and dampness that would invariably be the case without insulation. Looks very good. You might want to make sure temps don't go below freezing in Winter (not sure if it does in your neck of the woods) as electronics don't always fair well with freezing temps. There's great UV protective foil that you can put on the windows if you're worried about UV / light damage - I've done so on my gameroom windows.

looks really good bud, glad your finally in.

Always good to get that first studio video out of the door, looking good! Agreed that controlling lighting is key, the sun is hardly reliable in this country so best to take it out of the equation 😁

It looks great Rich - nice and clean (reminds me I should repaint my loft at some point!!)

please continue with next versions! good video!

Super duper helpful, thank you for the video.

What a collection you got there!! I had a Cassiopeia.. This video reminded me that I even had one. I can't even remember using it because it was so bad. Battery life seemed awful - there's no way that it was 20 hours. Plus, it took AA's and there didn't seem a good way of recharging it like any rechargeable device - so I never recharged it, I used new batteries every time. It quickly got expensive and boring. At first, seeing windows on a big screen (it was a big screen!) was really mesmerising.. but usability, speed, storage, connectivity and software just made it virtually useless. There were loads of other negatives too.. but you get the idea. Wow, I can't believe I forgot that I actually owned one. I also had an Dell X51, which was slightly better, but PLAGUED with memory issues (if it ran out of power, you lost all your data, so it had to be backed up constantly and kept charged)

Thank you, this is really useful. A long time ago, when I owned an Amiga computer, I used Shapeshifter for emulating a 68k Macintosh, but now I would be totally lost without your guide when trying to use the Basilisk II emulator in my Apple Sillicon Mac.

so is it ok to run basilisk without disk jockey?

I got a Drakware adapter and, while I love it for keyboards (especially since it's got a useful remapping program and seems to have acceptable latency for at least typing), it definitely leaves far too much to be desired on the mouse front. The lack of daisy-chained simultaneous KB+M support is a bummer, and (at least on my Windows computer) you have to unplug the adapter itself from the PC or USB cable first if you want to switch BETWEEN using a mouse or keeb. Plus the mouse cursor is DREADFULLY slow by default (again, could be a Windows thing). I'm still gonna consider mine a partial win for giving my orange-switch AEK1 life on modern hardware. It's never gonna be a gaming keyboard due to low key rollover, but my GOD is it a treat for typing.

To be perfect, just sand it and paint.

That is a suer cool project!

4:40 I am an electrical engineer student. I noticed your soldering iron is set to 300C. When soldering smaller electronic components that you are struggling with, you want it set from 320C to about 400C. I usually go 320C for any through-hole soldering and 360C or 370C for surface-mount soldering. I have the pin finally melt the solder after raising the temperature by 1-5 degrees. Also, the tip of the iron will continuously keep oxidizing when exposed to air which will disrupt the heat transfer from the tip of the iron. To fix this, keep a small wire brush on hand and before each solder you should give the tip a quick clean to remove any oxidization, then you should tin the tip. Tinning refers to applying a small amount of solder to the tip (not enough to make a blob but enough to visually cover the tip). Then you can apply it to the pin and apply the solder. Ps. A tip for recording any benchwork is to do a top-down view. It shows the most. You can usually DIY a top-down gantry using a clothing rail or something similar.

I still use my old Antec / RS Components soldering iron from my Field Service Days - it's only 25 watts, but for most use cases it's fine. Only issue tends to be with big lumps (on a heat sink etc) - but I tend not to have to replace things like too much.

For soldering I recommend a T12 soldering iron(any brand will be fine, the small box type) or a Pinecil, it's good enough for the job. For soldering I use thin rosin core solder wires, flux syringes from mg chemicals (chipquik also works), and a tip scrubber for cleaning up tips (the wire ball type). Small tip for the headers: it's easier to just lay it on the table and solder the first pin, heat it up to set it in place properly, then solder the opposite corner, then finishing the rest.

I’ve experienced problems with a Chinese soldering iron: inappropriate mains fuse and poor earthing were the most concerning. Aside from the safety issues I was also baffled by its inability to make a decent solder joint on anything other than the smallest components. The cause turned out to be an air gap between the ceramic heater and the bit itself - without a good thermal path between the two there is no way it can actually deliver the claimed amount of heat. I made a copper shim to improve conduction and this helped to some extent, but couldn’t get a very good fit without it becoming so tight that changing the bit would risk breakage of the ceramic core. I don’t know whether this is the problem with the Kaiweets iron you have, but it sounds similar so I’d take a good look at its construction. If the job you’re trying to solder has enough thermal mass to drain the iron’s tip faster than the heater can get energy to it then you’ll find yourself trying to compensate by turning the temperature control up. Not only does it make for a miserable experience, but will shorten the lifetime of bits (because of the wider temperature cycle and running hotter when idle).

I think I've found my next project - does Mr Wolf offer a Case Printing service?

Nice video - what a lovely fun project. A few tips for soldering you may find helpful. 0) That solder appeared to be rosin-core. That means its already got the flux inside it. Rosin is derived from the sap of pine trees. It contains acrylic acid which helps clean the surface. For the most part, the action is to exclude oxygen and prevent any (further) oxides forming. Blocks of rosin used for violin bows work wonderfully if you'd like more flux. Plumber's solder is very different. It contains a chloride salt which is too aggressive and ends up ruining the plating on the iron's tip. 1) Couldn't quite see the tip you were using, but it looked like a fairly fine conical tip. I only find them useful for very small things. For stuff like pin headers, I'd always want something stumpier. I usually use a K12-K (knife-edge) or a K12-C4 as shown in the following fleabay listing. www.ebay.com.au/itm/175633642904 Manufacturing videos showing hand-soldering being done in factories typically sees the use of _much_ bigger irons and tips, loaded to the hilt with solder before touching the pins. I'd imagine some would solder that header in two single passes of a few seconds each!!

Thanks mate.

How long do you think this wonderful clean look will last until it get yellow again?

Thank you for the video! I wanted to know if the keyboard had a mouse. I really enjoyed the video and learned whole lot of new things about the good old iPAQ, can’t wait to try out doom.

Great guide Rich - I'd forgotten most of this so it''ll be handy for when I get round to sorting my Classic Mac II/Blue Scsi image.

Really comprehensive! Thanks

This video was exactly what I was looking for, clear end to end instructions, well done and thank you.

The weird thing about Digital for me was that I never owned one of their systems, but I live within about an hour's drive of where they were designed. One would think that I would have some experience with them. I had a TI-99, which would have been from Texas. I've had Apple computers (CA). But I didn't have anything from the area where I live. I even own a server that might have been designed in the IBM Poughkeepsie, NY location, which I've driven by.

I appreciated the video up to the point that the music starts drowning out your voice.

That post I made yesterday that didn't seem to post, still hasn't. I can see it, but if I open a private window, I can see that it's not visible. I'm not going to write the whole thing out again, but I'll simply state, based on my experiences back in those days, the reason old BIOS' show lower capacities than windows was because old BIOS's used to calculate hard drive capacities based on certain hardware specifications, such as the number of cylinders and heads an HDD had. I don't know what CF used to calculate capacities. I've never worked with it. But there came a point where the cylinder and head counts stopped increasing and capacities transitioned to being calculated based on what they called "max readable sectors". The thing was, in order for you to see the full capacity of the drive, you needed a partition manager that supported it. DiskPart didn't support it and would always show you what the BIOS calculated your drive's capacity to be. But Windows XP's partition manager did and would show you drive's full capacity. This is also why when you installed big hard drives in older computers, (like when I installed a 20GB Western Digital HDD in an old Pentium 1 HP PC I had, the BIOS wouldn't detect the drive. But once I manually configured the BIOS for the number of cylinders and heads, the BIOS would calculate the drive with a really low capacity. Even Diskpart detected it as a much lower capacity. But Windows XP detected the full capacity. The thing is, if you didn't configure the drives cylinders and heads, the drive wouldn't work at all. But once you did, you had to use a Windows installer to partition the drive to achieve the full capacity. And if I remember right, I'm pretty sure Windows 98 SE did too. I don't remember for sure when it comes to the installer, but I distinctly remember running Windows 98 SE on that PC with that 20GB HDD. But I also installed a 60GB Maxtor HDD on a friend's similarly old PC with the same BIOS restrictions. I hope this one posts.

For the optical drive issue where you can hear the rotor slip. That's often caused by the wearing down of the rubber or felt grips on the rotor. The bottom one. The top one is more of free floating stabilizer than it is any kind of real grip. I've often been able to fix that rotor slip issue by either opening the drive and putting some electrical tape on the rotor plate, or if I wasn't comfortable with that, adding the tape to the inner most clear ring of the disc. That's usually enough to help the rotor better grip the disc and stop the slippage.

I've seen the issue with storage capacity mismatches between windows and BIOS on older systems. If I remember right, it had something to do with a change that happened around the 2000, XP era where hard drives transitioned from a hardware determined max capacity to instead use what was called "max readable sectors". Bare in mind this is now well over 20 years ago and haven't had to be aware of this in a long time. In short, I've slept since then. So my memory is not perfect by any stretch. Now while I never saw this relationship with CF, honestly I've never worked with CF before, but I did see this effect with mechanical hard drives. Back in those days (late 90s), you would configure the BIOS to determine the capacity of your hard drive by setting the number of cylinders and heads your hard drive had and your BIOS would calculate the hard drives capacity based on those numbers. Obviously some BIOS were better at autodetecting than others, but once configured, you would use Diskpart.exe in DOS to partition the drive. But as mentioned, this changed around the 2000, XP era. There came a point where cylinder and head counts stopped increasing and capacity started being determined by the max number of readable sectors instead. This became really important when installing something like a 64GB IDE HDD in a really old computer with a really old BIOS that simply didn't know how to quantify that big of a number. And these old BIOS were so attached to those cylinder and head counts that they simply wouldn't work with newer hard drives unless you put those numbers in manually yourself. I remember installing a 64GB Maxtor IDE HDD in a friends old computer with this issue and it wouldn't detect the hard drive. I ended up fixing it by simply configuring the cylinder and head counts manually (which I got from the Hard Drive's specification sheet), which the BIOS then calculated as a really low capacity. Can't remember the exact number, but nowhere near the drives actual capacity. And if you went into Diskpart, it would state the same low capacity the BIOS determined. But if you instead used Windows XP's installer to partition your drive, Windows XP's partition manager would detect the full capacity of the hard drive. It was because of that experience, I figured out how to install higher capacity hard drives on older hardware that were never intended to use drives of those capacities. I myself ran a 32GB Western Digital IDE HDD on an old HP computer that ran a 200Mhz Pentium 1 processor (the first computer I ever bought. Bought it used for a hundred bucks at a convention in Dallas because I couldn't afford to buy a new computer and I used that computer to teach myself how to build computers). When I bought it, it originally only had a 2 or 3GB hard drive on it. I hope this helps.