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Thank you! I agree with the extended oil change intervals and poor quality oil being the biggest cause. I don’t think I myself would use the oil additive. A good quality oil will remove deposits slowly with a good filter. If you’re not hearing any timing chain noise and not getting any engine codes, you should be good. This LR4 had about 142,000 miles on it with no noises. We only started getting the timing codes when the weather turned cold. My daughters has 200,000 miles and no codes and no sludging, but I could hear slight chain noise.

@@adv_addict Yes you can replace just the bushings. You can replace them with polyurethane as well but I’ve heard they wear out just as fast as the rubber in some cases. It is a lot cutting and pressing but it’s doable. I chose replacing the entire control arm as it comes with a lifetime warranty which covers the bushings and ball joint. Much faster job as well.

Great suggestion, I'll put it on my list for a future video. Which may be fairly soon as I might have to pull another engine out of one.

Thank You!

Glad to hear it went well. I agree it is surprisingly easy, can’t imagine what a LR shop would charge. Definitely good idea with the multiple WD40 hits, especially if it’s in a rust prone area. Thanks for the comment!

Yes it is 4wd with low range. We’ve actually sold it to a friend, it was just too small for us.

Thank you for your kind words!

Thank You.

Glad you like them! Thanks for watching!

I understand they are rebranded, but Land Rover themselves marketed and sold the Discovery 3 & Discovery 4 as the LR3 & LR4 in North America, not our decision. This includes badging on the vehicles. We often refer to them as both in our family. Thanks for the comment!

Northwestern Nevada... Wellington NV. Thanks for watching!

Sorry to hear about your LR4. I looked on car-part.com which is place for salvage yards to list. I looked into a few of the companies and chose Benzeen Auto Parts since they provided a 1 year warranty and their price was good and they delivered it to me. No one sponsored me. I will say, I am suspicious about the actual mileage that is on the engine I received due to various things like spark plug wear and more. But so far it's been running good, but it is a risk buying anything used. I looked up an engine for a 2012 Jaguar XF natural aspirated. I may be doing another swap as I just picked up another LR4 that overheated and blew the head gaskets.

@@mountainviewsgarage thanks so much! you must enjoy the punishment! It is doable though, I almost wonder if I should get a whole car on auction, shows the history a little better and is probably about the same. I am also not ready paying 10k for a rebuild engine! that is as much as the whole car is worth now.... did you do ok with the bay tools? British Atlantic ask 1600$ for the tool set, that seems excessive... well we are only 4 hours apart, in the worst case I can always swing by ;-) thanks so much for the awesome videos!

We looked at the auctions, and actually bid on a few but they went higher than I could justify. Without a license we were limited on what vehicles we could bid on without going through a 3rd party. I purchased my tools on Amazon. I’ll post the links to the items I purchased. They worked fine, but I did have to modify some of them which caused a delay for us. But it was still worth it. Maybe I’ll do a short video on the tools and what I had to do to them.

@@mountainviewsgarage that would be helpful, some people spread these horror stories, then the tools from British Atlantic look exactly the same as the bay/amazon stuff... makes you wonder! I think you probably had to modify the lock insert, right?

Wow, yeah I think oil quality and change intervals are a big contributor to these engines issues. From what I could find 12-15psi at hot idle is within spec, but I was expecting to might have to replace bearings. Thanks for watching and the comment!

It's a Leon 490B Loader.

Sorry to hear you're having trouble. It is a pain to install, just take your time and don't force anything. Make sure the injector wiring harnesses aren't getting in the way. Once it sits down on top, it typically has to move to the left when looking at the engine, just by shifting it around until it falls into place (may have to lift the left side a bit). Getting the lower injector rail lined up was always the biggest challenge for me.

Also, it's really cool that your wife helped. I wish mine would help me, but forget about it.

Great to hear, I'm glad it helped you out. That's my oldest daughter, fortunately all my kids enjoy helping out in the shop, the wife not so much....Good luck on your project!

You're welcome.

We decided to get an F350 instead and haven’t looked back.

That’s exactly what we decided to do.

Awesome awesome work and mountain views... I can almost guarantee you made your money back and more... I'll continue to watch... I have a 2007 Volkswagen Touareg clean everything... for a low price... my goal for it was a Ls2 swap... but I'm still unsure

We had to remove the valve covers and disconnect the heater hoses where they connect to the fire wall.

You may also need to have a jack under the transmission or transfer case to get the best angle to clear the oil pan. I also lifted the front of the LR4 just to get the right angle and it cleared. Good luck!

Yes P0016 and P0018 are for both intake camshafts. I'm in the process of doing my daughters and had a similar issue, where no codes prior to timing job, no signs of sludge but I did clean all the variators. But still had a P0016 code after putting it back together. I'm in the process of replacing the variator as I've tested everything else. Good luck!

@@mountainviewsgarage Thanks for the input!

Interesting, we did find some sludge in the oil pan, but nothing alarming. Thanks for watching & the comment!

I'm actually regularly surprised each time I work on these Land Rovers. Quite a contrast from the VW's. Thanks for watching!

Thanks 👍

We didn’t have to reprogram anything but did reset the transmission adaptation which is recommended after any service even just an oil change. Our LR4 wouldn’t start either, after checking codes and running some tests it was due to communication issues between the ECM & TCM. Yes any TCM from a LR3 or in our case an LR4 will work. Just can’t use one from say a Range Rover.

ok

Agreed, there were some nasty rocks. I've been really impressed with the tires so far. My son is planning an update review of them soon. Thanks for watching!

Great to hear!

Thanks for watching!

I have not had to remove the oil pump yet. But you would have to separate the engine and transmission as the oil pump is driven by the timing chain.

You should be able to push the airline in and then press the orange plastic ring in, at the same time pull back on the airline and it should come out. Some times debris builds up around the airline so spraying something like WD40 will loosen things up a bit. Good luck!

@@mountainviewsgarage thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately I crimped the line and had to cut it. Not only that but the Selonoid was bad. After replacing the Selonoid both Airbags started to come up but both stopped getting air not sure if I caused a short. Compressor is running. All connections are connected. Airbags are holding air. After much research I am thinking I need to replace the Suspension Control Module which is located behind the glove box on my 99 Mercury Grand Marquis. Once again thanks for the quick response really appreciate the help.

Western Nevada... Wellington.

Correct, for additional fees.

Thanks for the comment! No I haven’t had any issues with the climate control.

I hope it helps. Thanks for the comment.

Often it's the locking pin that gets stuck and make them rattle at a cold start. It's more rare for oil to leak between both sides, but often also has different behavior but easy to see with a scan tool you then say the actual timing jumping all over the place compared to the commanded timing.

I was surprised that we had one faulty one. I’m going to tear it apart and try to figure out where it’s failing. The pin on the VW variator was obviously worn, but these didn’t seem have any signs of wear just sludging. I just did another timing job where the plastic guide on top of the spring was worn down to just about nothing.

I think the failure on these after cleaning has to do with how easily the parts move around during reassembly. Even with them sitting on the camshaft in a vertical position it was difficult for me to feel confident the plates where centered properly. I couldn't find torque specs for the 6 bolts either.

I’m sorry to hear that. You can email us and we can see how we can help you. You can find our email in our channel page.

Thank you!

Thanks for your comment, I'll pass them onto my daughters as they helped with the recording. Definitely good idea's you have about disassembly. I've done the front & rear crossover pipes on both my daughters and my wife's LR4's, those video's will be coming out shortly. Thanks for watching & the comment!

​@@mountainviewsgarage - just saw the follow-up video, I'm looking forward to watching it and learning more. Also, I'm excited to watch the crossover pipe videos in due-course. Thank you.

18" rims. Tire's are Yokohama Geolander M/T's 275/65/18. I have good memories of Edmonton when I visited there almost 30 years ago, I'm sure it's changed quite a bit. I'll actually be Calgary next week. Thanks for watching!

Actually I don't use the decompression lever. The starter I purchased is a gear reduction unit. Even in the cold winter, I just let the "glow plugs" go for 30 seconds and she always fires up. So I haven't had to mess with the decompression. Is it possible something got bent somewhere that is binding it up? Good luck!

I purchased mine off amazon, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09WW66HPP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

You are correct, I must have pulled that code from another project I'm working on. Thanks for pointing it out, I've corrected the title and details. Sorry about that.

Well, we ended up replacing all the timing components including the camshaft adjuster/variator due to wear. We also had to replace the valve tappets as we had 2 or 3 that were collapsed.

With a correlation code on variable valve timing, it typically points to timing chain stretch or variator issue. The Jaguar/Land Rover 5.0 also had a design flaw where the steel tensioner would wear on the aluminum guide. So it’s best to update the parts as well.

Do they make a steel guide to replace the aluminum guide as well?

new part has a steel button in place of the aluminum one that wore off