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One forward two back is still better than just two back.

Your doing a great job and it will soon be coming together 👍🏻😊, I'm looking forward to the engine going back in, all the bits like brakes, suspension etc, and one day an mot and drive etc 👍🏻😊

I can't believe the Renault 5 turbo was an ohv engine, live and learn.

😢

Wondered what Gareth Southgate was upto now. Nice content pal and well edited

Good effort, you would of had to of taken the head bolts out again anyway as you forgot to put the WASHERS back under them!!. And put the rocker arm on first, loosen all the tappets and their nuts off as far as you can before they want to come out, smear a bit of oil under the head of each bolt before you put the washers on then bolt all 10 head bolts down at the same time, then you can put the rods in afterwards and adjust down the tappets to spec.

Hey. Sadly that's the problem with working on cars, especially 'previously enjoyed' ones. You are a step forward - you'll be more comfortable putting it together a second time. 😉

You wont ever adjust your timing once the engines in.. dial in some timing now, or just bang on the standard pulley if you're leaving it OE. If you regret my advice later on and wanted to adjust it, swap it then.. To adjust the timing in the engine bay is a nightmare, screwdrivers down spark plug holes, can't see fk all, it's never gonna happen.. on top of that, you aren't fitting a modified timing cover to get access to leave the rest sealed.. the full cam cover is a nightmare to seal after the engines chucked oil.. fit it, seal it, leave it.. If you do leave adjustable pulley on, you will most likely have to beat some clearance into the cover as the pulley bolt hits it.. it did on mine, so perhaps dont get attached to the fresh paint, youre about to ruin it..

Excellent work dude… nearly there and it looks amazing!!

Stick at it! Having the same issue with a central locking issue but at some point your progress will go forward again! Remember it’s worth it and you’re getting to know everything about your car better!

Advice for the future: For something like using a wire wheel/wire brush (or de-rusting with a multimaster or angle grinder) an FFP2-Mask (which most people have sitting around from covid) protects enough, and should be easier to "make work" on a smaller head/face than an adult breathing mask. (Also, running a vacuum (maybe not the one you're using in the house, just get some cheap one for the garage) near/next to what you're spray painting reduces fogging (and thus also overspray on stuff that you don't want painted)

The first experiments are the most difficult! Plating any metal is very sensitive to preparation plus voltage and current. You're probably ok voltage wise but a bit low current...you can overcome that to an extent by leaving it longer. Prep is a different story as you might need acid or alkaline pickling (not sure for nickel) and clean water rinse. Its a bit of a black art!

CHEERS from AUSTRALIA

Hi Gregg and Imogen. Just found your channel, binged all the videos and subscribed! I really love the father/daughter vibe. I am 72 now and on my last project I think (1998 BMW 840Ci). I have tried to get my son, (42 now), interested, but he does not want to know, so you are really lucky. Back in 1988, I had an Escort RS Turbo (REALLY wish I had kept that!) and my best friend had a Renault 5 GT turbo. We both had our cars up-rated by Turbo Technics in Newcastle, and they did a great job. I can probably give you bits of good advice, I've been tinkering for over 50 years and restoring for about 12 years, but the problem with RUclips as I see it is that every commenter is an expert, so you need to be careful who you take notice of. Anyway, good luck with the project, and remember it is normal to lack motivation every now and then and get totally fed up with it.

Im guessing thats actual matt black engine paint and not just a can of matt black? Engine paint is rated for temperature and chemical spills..

such a sweeeet video!

Hi really like the videos.Well done both of you. I think the problem with the plate is contamination. I'm not an expert on plating, but from what I've seen there's usually a couple of cleaning/acid dip process before going to the plating bath as they need to be spotless. The other thought is that the marks look like where you rubbed your finger after the first round in the plating bath. Keep going, it's all a learning curve. ;-)

Reds ok, but if you ever get damage, it's a pig to colour match.. gordini or 182 racing blue is nice, but phase 1 electric blue with a black or textured phase 1 kit and grill is superior..

Sorry forgot to put the link to the blog - www.cmoist.com/zinc-plating-on-the-cheap/

A different video this week. Hope you enjoyed!

For the future: Saw Dust is a decent (and cheap) material to soak up oil, coolant, or whatever else might leak onto the garage floor. Other people swear on kitty litter.

Maybe consider getting a box of "single use" Nitrile gloves (they can be used several times). Just keeps your hands from getting quite that dirty. They come in boxes of 100 pairs or so and cost next to nothing. Just saves a lot of scrubbing (and some scratches)

Whatever you end up doing with it, once you got it stripped down as far as it'll be, get it a FluidFilm/PermaFilm treatment so it lasts. Especially if it'll see winters/rain/salt. It's best done with the car as apart as it can be for both access and cleaning.

If your keeping those liners and pistons, make sure that the pistons go back in the same liners they came out of as they wear together.

Excellent work 👍🏻 that engine will soon be rebuilt :-)

So impressive! I have a Renault Trafic Mk1 1.7 Petrol campervan and it's engine head had to be rebuilt/skimmed (whatever the term is) back in March this year. SO SO so wish I had the knowledge to do things like this myself. Hats off to you both and the project is looking incredible. Cannot wait to see what is to come.

Crumbs, I wasn't doing things like that when I was eleven.

As tu remis les joints de queue de soupape ?

Another week, another video! Fingers crossed you enjoy this one… the next video should be a big one!! Hopefully the final engine video for a while!

It's a miracle that you finished that car with this stupidity.

Further down the line contact ignition advantages for one of his efi conversions it will be the best mod u do

Thats actually the wrong way to remove the bonnet.. removing the bonnet for maintenance is a regular occurrence, so you pop out the E clips that hold the bonnet hinges. Then hold the bonnet firmly, jerk it sideways or put pressure on to one side, and the hinge will pop out the pin.. then gently slide off the other pin and lift away.. everyone does it this way.. 😎 It's ok as you're gonna paint it, but you'd be trying to line up the bonnet gaps if you do every time you work on it. And the studs snap..

I hope you read this comment sooner than latter as from what i can see, you forgot the o-rings in the bottom of the cylinder liners. Without them all your hard work will go to waste once you start the engine as the oil and water will mix togheter. Best regards and i hope i didnt write too late in the process.

Rolls Royce Bentley beaujolais paintwork

Are you checking your clearances for the mains and big ends?

Huge respect for doing this yourself (and your dad). Keep it up. That first start attempt is gonna be terrifying.

Vidéo sympa mais un peu courte en terme de montage moteur, tu as gardé les bielles et le vilebrequin d'origine, qu'elle cote as tu pris pour les coussinets de bielles et de vilebrequin ? Ton montage tourne t'il sans contrainte? J'ai pas l'impression que tu es beaucoup lubrifié.. Pour les segments as tu bien twisté a 120°?

Are u usein anythin on the bearings an piston rings an the liners they don't want goin in dry 🤔when u first turn the engine over wants to be lubricated

I hope you enjoyed the video! What do you think? Hopefully not too many mistakes!!

Don't drill out the indicators on the wings as it looks better without, and most mot guys are normally happy with the fronts as they wrap around.

Great fun watching this build well done so far 👍 I would suggest converting to efi as an upgrade, this guy has designed a kit Best of luck with the rest of the project ruclips.net/video/2UeKeo1xtnA/видео.htmlsi=yt-voc9wk5D8JJhj

Get a timing disc for the crank, and a dti as you'll need to set the timing of cam. Specs will be supplied by piper. Port match head to manifolds, nice n easy to do. With that cam you will probably be able tonjust increase the 1st stage boost enrichment, but defo get a decent wide band afr. If the scorpion exhaust is in good condition, keep it as its decent enough for your power level. I always preferred a side exit purely for the noise😂. Take you time building the block, clean, clean and clean. And make sure you check liner protrusion. Not sure if you got the head checked, but we'll worth checking the oil passage up to the rocker shaft. They had a habit of cracking after a rebuild (seems to be the re torquing of headbolts causes it) and it will dump oil into the water. A decent engineering shop can line bore it and put a bronze sleeve in. Might be worth considering. Best of luck👌

1.00 what is this vanishing dog magic?

Good luck with your project 👍

Hope you enjoyed the video! Any other modification suggestions? For all your cam replacement needs: www.pipercams.co.uk/product-category/car/renault/renault-5-gt-turbo

When you say "cracked turbo", all I hear is "opportunity for upgraded turbo".

If that head didn't need skimming then it shouldn't have been! Unfortunately the C1J turbos are particularly sensitive to compression changes, something you will need to consider when rebuilding and fueling.

Look amazing Greg…. Shame about the turbo:-(

That's a job I must do with my Saab. It looks amazing!

Hope you enjoyed the video! Do we do any upgrades to the engine whilst it’s in this state?? For all your engine needs here are MJAs details: www.mja-engineering.co.uk/