Видео

Optical illusion, that's a downhill street meeting a level street

Nope, just a flat road, rolling slow in second to a stop sign. Happens often but doesn't seem to be a problem. Just weird.

I think part of it is the bell crank, drag link, and pitman arm. I don't know what they're from but it's not a Willys Jeep. The bell crank doesn't have the ball on the end, it has a ball joint. Early on, I thought my steering box was worn the heck out, Turns out, there's 3 inches of extra movement in the drag link because of that ball joint. But it's well greased and works for now? (Eventually I'll find a good replacement and get it done right.)

Glad to hear that it's "normal" after my rebuilds, even with some Omix parts. Not a lot of vintage Jeepers around here for comparison. I'm a lot closer to bolting on the skid plate and finding some local dirt to go play in.

Way ahead of you. I did that today for a sanity check. Backed it off a few degrees and it seems to still be running ok.

I keep hearing things about the reliability of points yet even really high end ones have given me trouble. I'm really thinking about installing an electronic ignition because it would set the stage for an EFI conversion...

@@SunkCostGarage screw points. I own a lot of vehicles that were built with points. I've converted most over to electronic (pertronx). Never looked back. The jeep in particular starts easier and runs way smoother. Plus you can always go back to points if you so wish. No permanent modifications required

I would love to do it for a comparison, but I actually messed up the Joe's carb in the process of putting it back together. I think I bent the float by either dropping it or setting something on it, because it's set to the correct height but it absolutely does not close the needle and the carb just floods like crazy now.

@@SunkCostGarage The metering rod adjustment is critical.I bought the adjusting tool for mine and it made a world of difference

@@timfagan1289 I used the tools to "fix" the JMP carb and it made it worse.

That's good feedback to hear, because it has never sounded "right" to me until recently. I've seen plenty of other videos of people driving L heads and mine never quite sounded the same. If I can get out there with a vacuum gauge and get the idle down to between 600 and 700 RPMS, I think I can finally consider it "dialed in".

@@SunkCostGarage Good stuff Bradley!

Fortunately I spent way too much time and effort rebuilding a spare Dana 41 to swap in. I just need to find the time to get it swapped in. The current one is likely rebuildable, the bearings are just shot. It has fresh oil for now at least. And I figured that the points block was a wear item, but 50 miles to lose .020 of gap? That's a little too soon.

Very much so.

I was about to suggest a vacuum gauge to start doing some more diagnostics. Glad you found it. I'm always glad I made the change over to the Pertronix Electronic Ignition. It's not "right" for that time frame but it makes life so much easier.

Really glad to hear you found the problem, did the rubbing block of the points wear off like last time? It's a simple thing to fix, yet it's very important to determine why would it do such thing, so it doesn't happen again and that's where the challenge lies. Really looking forward to the follow up video!

@@ginacoronel6872 There was some wear on the rubbing block but it wasn't totally gone. (Been there, done that, oops, lesson learned.)

@@jeepinbanditrider I'm still gonna dust off the vacuum gauge and re-check the ignition timing. It's still idling too high and I don't suspect a vacuum leak (but will be looking for one all the same).

@@SunkCostGarage I have such a hard time seeing the timing marks with a light that I've been setting it with the vacuum gauge when I'm doing tuneups and have been really happy with it. Advance to maximum vacuum, then retard one inch of vacuum.

I thought the timing might be slightly too advanced. The vacuum gauge made me set it there and I confirmed 13 degrees with a timing light, but that was with the other carb and before the valve adjustment. (And the vacuum gauge was generic off Amazon, so the quality/accuracy could easily be in question.) The plugs weren't gapped right before (they are now) but they all give a good strong blue spark. Wires are new and should be good, I wouldn't think one would be bad but I do have a spare set that I could swap on for science. The coil definitely tested good on a meter during that exhaustive troubleshooting video awhile back. The only other wild card is the alternator. It's putting out 14+ volts, which is good though it might be a little high. I haven't messed with it because it "works" but my dad did buy a rebuild kit for it early on in the project. We just haven't tried to do it.

I definitely thought about it. There's not much paint on the front half. But I'm also thinking about learning how to weld and do some of the metal work it needs to make it right. Then it would get the usual sealer, body filler, and real paint (which is another thing I'd love to learn).

Condenser tested good, it's a Blue Streak which is about the best you can get these days. I don't have a known good "old" one to try, unfortunately.

This fuel pump was one of the non-rebuildable types. (Or at least, not easily rebuildable.) The diaphragm came out fine, etc. but it was the check valves that didn't come out. The rebuildable ones have a little retainer that unscrews and the check valves fall right out. This one had them pressed in with the metal around them upset to hold them in place. You would have to drill them out carefully, install new ones, then upset the metal again to hold them in place.

It can't even make a coffee run right now. Though it was cool to start it up with no carburetor on since the intake was full of gas :/

A replacement Solex is under $150. I know it is not original, but it is worth the price of alleviated frustration. That is, if you believe the problem still lies in the carburetor

I have questions about the alternator myself. It's putting out 14.5V now according to the gauge. Could be overcharging. I know from driving several Hondas that electrical issues can cause weird stuff. A single corroded ground can wreak havoc on sensors, causing the computer to throw codes that make no sense. Even on this jeep where there are no computers, weird stuff can still happen on the ignition side.

@@SunkCostGarage mine puts out 15/16v and runs fine it’s a bit high but haven’t had any issues. I’m running a gm style 1 wire. If your problem was electrical I would think you wouldn’t even get it to run. You technically can run it for a while on just the battery without the alternator since the only thing that needs juice is the coil once it’s started. Are you getting 12v to the coil consistently? You can test this easily by just discounting the alternator (leave the belt in place just unplug the wire and see if it runs better)

I'll have to get the meter out and confirm that tomorrow.

I almost bought that high temp permatex. If it fails again, that'll be the cheap fix. The fuel pump is relatively new and seems strong. There's always fuel in the glass bowl and you can see it moving. I haven't put a fitting on it to test fuel pressure but it looks like it's doing the job.

@@SunkCostGarage yea I was having some issues with my solex and it was fuel pressure related - the Carter w/o solved it for me .. one other thought are you running an oil bath or cartridge air filter? Could be why your carb was all gummed up if it’s sucking in oil. I got rid of the oil bath element and replaced with a wix cartridge within the OE air cleaner assembly - it breathes much better. Assuming your pcv valve is new/working?

Oh one thing I forgot to mention is that I ended up returning my joes motor pool w/o Carter and had my original one rebuilt by Peter debella. I could never get the joes motor pool one dialed in properly. I watched the g503 videos to try and adjust but made it worse .. Peter debella is a good source for good quality Willy’s parts, lots of NoS stuff as well. FWIW

PCV is new and working, not gummed up. Still running the oil bath air cleaner. It's a Donaldson style so you can't remove the element without destroying it, apparently.

I am thinking about sending my original WO to Sal at Vintage Jeeper to see if he can bring it back to life. I tried throwing a rebuild kit at it but it didn't work out.