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Good job

Beautiful Tele for sure.🎸👍

Those gauges look quite good! I use coins (one old half penny's just right for the 17th fret of Fender guitars) but the single point of contact with the Manotick gauge might actually be an improvement.

Which bridge and tailpiece are compatible with this? I'm ordering the parts when I order my guitar and want to ensure I'm buying the correct parts. Thanks.

Intonation needed to be corrected after that truss rod adjustment. Strange he didn’t point that out.

Its almost as if you loosened the neck relief just to make a video... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Out of stock! I've been watching your channel for a long time, and I've always loved your convenient little guages. I always thought it was a 1 of 1 set that you made for yourself until I heard you say they're for sale in this video. I was excited until I got to the website and found they're sold out. Bummer. 😞

Color is great

I'd love to use my Manotick string height guages, but Canada Post are keeping them for now :(

you left your nut unattended

I have this exact guitar. I also have a G&L Asat Special Tribute and a G&L Classic Fullerton Bluesboy. They are excellent guitars. One point though with your vid I would never have left that grimy fret board like that. lol

This was perfect and is my exact guitar. Turns out, just needed a couple tweaks to the truss rod and plays like a champ again.

9:20 Correct me if I’m wrong but although you say “clockwise” at this mark, isn’t that actually counter-clockwise?

Yes it works!!

The bridges can be raised or lowered by two thumb wheels.

Great video, but audio is too quiet

10:25 How would you know the intonation looks pretty good when there are no strings on the guitar?

6 to 1

It would be so nice if we could hear what you’re saying!

It would just take one look at the headstock and the binding where the nut is and that’s enough to know it ain’t a Gibson. I get you need content and wanted to show up all the parts that show it to not be real Gibson , all people need to do is look at the nut and where the headstock binding ends and that’s always at the nut and never extends to the first fret beyond the nut. The same thing applies to a Standard with no headstock binding , the nut is always a dead giveaway

Interesting, and each to their own. The Fender HiMass bridge comes in brass and zinc saddle options. I prefer the brass saddles as they provide a warmer tone. Lately, they were selling on Amazon Australia for a third of what I buy them locally, so I bought three. I prefer to install a larger bridge when replacing the existing one, that way, you cover up the perimeter indent (as seen at 6:25 and again at 9:05), on the body from the old and smaller bridge. Further, when removing the strings, I add a thick business card right at the rear of the bridge to prevent scratching the body when removing strings. Especially, roundwounds.

Ucanbarlyhearu

the gfs xtrem is a way better than these Chinese Bigsby knockoffs...........i have 3 of their stud mount xtrems and they are even better than the Korean made licensed Bigsby b50......i have one real American made Bigsby b6 and the xtrems i have are nearly as good as it is at a much cheaper price..........

Never cared for how cheap the ferrule style tailpiece felt on even the Gibson versions.

Perhaps the noise the customer is hearing manifests when using distortion...

Hey I know that Flying V 😜 great setup … and yeah those locking Gotoh tuners were on sale at my local guitar parts shop, didn’t think about checking the string post height but these are the “MGT” tuners which have an 18mm post height on the shorter tuners… will watch out for this next time Cheers 🍻

I wouldn't replace the tunes. I would have figured the client would want the same bridge that comes on the custom. Those Pickups are hot, I back my bridge off just a little and max it out when I solo.

As soon as you sat that guitar on the bench, I thought to myself I bet it would look better with Cosmo Black or black nickel or black Chrome hardware. I guess the owner thought the same thing. I’m sure someone makes a black chrome V plate to black out the hardware completely. I would have thought the Gotoh would’ve dropped in the tuners especially. Since I put locking tuners on my guitar I usually do two strings at once whatever strings are in the same pack or with dadarrio I would do the low e and a and work my way to the high e. I’m old school because I change strings on a Floyd Rose guitar one string at a time remove one and replace it, it’s the way I learned to be able to change strings on a floating trem without fighting it for hours to get it in tune. I used to could replace a set stretch them and lock it down in around 30 or so minutes doing it one string at a time. It might sound tedious but if your guitar is set up right and you don’t change brand or gauge strings it’s the most reliable way for anyone new to FR to replace their strings without losing their minds getting it in tune and at the correct zero point. Those Gotoh tuners come in staggered post lengths to make the break angle over the nut correct, but I guess they sell non staggered sets too but they only have three different post heights and I guess the overall thickness of the headstock could come into play. I’ve got two medium posts on my Kramer Beretta for the low end and a and 4 shot posts for the rest and I believe my Ibanez has three medium and three shorts or maybe medium and long anyway the posts on those Gotoh are supposed to be really low to the face of the headstock for the correct nut break angle since you can’t rely on wraps to get the angle right. I would’ve thought the Kramer and Epiphone headstock in that shape would be about the same ?

😊la classe !👍👌

Jamais essayé le pigtail :-)

I would’ve put some lapping compound on that broken string and ran it back and forth in the groove/ saddle slot to lower that string to keep it the right size. I envy you so much for getting to do this, much respect for your work.

Nice idea for heating! To the comment below about heating and re-fretting: You left out a key detail. He can try "compression" fretting the neck as well before tossing neck. Of course with the Squire, probably get one cheap, but if it's something custom and not available, could definitely try compression fretting in conjunction with heating as well and much more percentage of success in keeping neck from reverting back to previous bent position. This method is used on guitar necks all the time. Harpeth Guitar Restroration site has a great vid on compression fretting on a classical guitar and Dan Erlewine"s fret book has an example of using heat in conjunction with compression fretting. I'm going to try this on a custom fretless bass tomorrow and see what happens. I usually use a heat lamp. Interesting to compare.

The ESP Alexi V cases are even larger and heavier 😂

Kudos. Just found U. Just subscribed. This has got be be the best bass ( instrument ) educational repair channels on the net..... Thx.

Amazing work!

I bought a couple of telecaster style guitars and tremolos for them similar to the one you installed. I didn't pay much for the guitars or the tremolos so I don't want to pay the cost of a vibramate install bridge.Do you know of another brand of bridge I could order that would not have to be altered that would allow the strings to pass through? The current bridges have four screws in them. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Where’d you get the 4/64ths feeler gauge from?

What is the correct pick up height ? Was the pick up height Ok on this maintenance ?

I just put a tusq nut on my 2018 player telecaster and the guitar is briter. I set up the guitar and I was thinking about the bridge. I was looking at Wilkerson brass saddle bridge.... not sure, still researching.... what is your opinion on it ❓ or put a G&L ASAT bridge on it. Wilkerson has a adjustable compensated 3 brass saddle bridge

I wonder if I can use that bridge on my 2018 fender player telecaster

I bought a road series made in Mexico Martin, it is all wood not laminate so I got it, it is the worst guitar ever. action came high enough for goats to jump off. and sounds cheap .

A Vee, it's right on the outside of the case!!!

Shouldn't you be measuring in playing position?

I would have liked to hear it.

Thought it was going to be 2 Epiphones inverted or a 1275 double neck. Wrong and wrong again.

newbie here...when you adjusted the bridge pickup the screw was sticking way the heck out...how do you make that look like its supposed to (make the head of the screw sit flush with the pick guard)?

Would you have a video on slotting the bridge to get a better break angle of the strings. I lowered the saddle 1.5 mm and the break angle is too shallow now. Some buzzing on a few strings, which is annoying. The saddle was only lowered after the truss rod was adjusted. I do have gauged files and did a little bit of filing to achieve a better angle for each strings, but didn't want to file too deeply until I spoke with someone like yourself with more experience in doing a job like this. Thanks in advance and very well explained video. Phil

I don't like the B7C, I like the B6C looks much better and no silly roller bar

Love it

If it hasn't had a broken headstock repair it's not a real Gibson. 🤣