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Without a pozzolan it’s 1mm a month !!

Especially after the cement mortar cracks.

I think the point he trying make is moisture in a building made of lime will escape through capillary and vapour. Cement will not permit this. Just look at the number of sandstone buildings pointed with lime that have been destroyed through freeze crack cycles. Not BS at all.

I don't think Hydrated Lime has any binding properties, it's used in the UK as a cement plasticiser. I think slaked quicklime (Putty) would be better.

Thank you for your question. Lime plaster is breathable, so it will allow moisture to pass through it and will not waterproof your walls. Traditional building methods that utilize lime mortar and lime plaster are designed to be breathable, allowing moisture to pass in and out. We do have other products more suited to waterproofing concrete and brick. Let us know if you want to know more.

@@stratacote6441 sure, I like to know more about concern for waterproofing of old wall made of bricks and cement, and want to learn about the construction of sustainable house about material mixing ratio, and material used for making a home of 2 storey.

You can add tallow to your limewash to improve waterproofinh

Lime (calcium hydroxide) can be made into two similar forms. One is a putty that is sometimes referred to as pit lime as it is stored in pits in the ground below the frost line. You can buy it in sealed tubs or barrels. The longer the putty ages in the pit or tub, the better it is and the more it will cost. A second form in which limes comes is a hydrated powder. It's made using an industrial autoclave. Both kinds of lime are slaked with water to make calcium hydroxide. However, hydrated lime is partially dried to make it a powder. You can buy this lime powder in big bags. Some folks mix the powder with water and let it soak for a bit to make a putty that looks similar to the pit lime putty, although it's not as good of a product and aging doesn't do as much for soaked powdered lime as it does for pit lime. Regardless of which putty you are using, you can mix it with sand to make lime plaster. If you have the choice between the two in the future, always buy the pit lime. It's significantly better.

​​Fantastic reply that describes - in rich detail, all you could need in order to proceed with lime. What a shame that person you replied to failed to even acknowledge your effort. Nevermind.....I found it mightily helpful; and interesting.

@@2icelollys1goat I gave it a thumbs up at the time although I know that doesn't count as an acknowledgement, I was grateful for the helpful reply. Anyway, with time and practice the experience does come and I did get the results I wanted so if you're new to it yourself, stick at it, it's worth the effort.

Non Hydraulic Lime Mortar was used for hundreds of years from the Roman occupation of Europe to the present day. Including construction using limestone blocks. Some buildings have lasted for centuries. So yes, lime mortar can be used for limestone, sandstone or granite block, and brickwork. Indeed, lime is better in some ways than modern cement as it is softer than the construction material, is self healing and moves as the building flexes. So its strength is in its flexibility. Regards, Mike Jackson, M.C.Jackson Plastering.

@@mcjacksonplastering1782 without repair though, non thermally expansion differance cycles w/o cracks right?

So, since this is an explanation of non-hydraljc lime, IE polazzonic cement, in your experience, will modern concrete s behave like polizzanic salt water curing cements, I'm all hecka confused now.

I'm about to start using lime in my house soon, as it's stone and lime , I need to replace much cement render,.. You need NHL lime and washed sand this is free of salt and some other shit, not sure exactly lol, but it needs to be washed sand I think, I was going to use normal building sharp sand , I'd rather use that sand its easier to buy, unless I'm wrong and we can use normal building sans ,, anyone?

If the repair you speak of to the wattle and daub is just to the plastering, then mix 3mm down angular sand to non hydraulic lime putty in the ratio 2.5 sand: 1 lime. Don't use hydraulic lime, even NHL2, as it is too hard for the earth substrate. Regards, Mike Jackson, M.C.Jackson Plastering.

@@mcjacksonplastering1782 Unfortunately some of the wall is fallen in, but for now the big beams have been holding it up, so it is a bit more work than just the plastering, ha ha. Thanks for your reply though =)

@@bblrip3690 Most earth buildings in Dorset are built with cob walls externally. Some older buildings have internal partition walls using wattle and daub. The external walls can be up to 3 feet thick to make the building structurally sound. Is your building cob. Wattle and daub is made of woven hazel or chestnut covered with mud and straw. The reason I'm asking is the repair methods are different.

@@mcjacksonplastering1782 Thanks for your reply =) The building is abroad and the walls are made with bamboo and mud & straw and various bits of wood and debris. Unfortunately I don't have any better pictures, but maybe these 3 will give you some idea... ruclips.net/video/mgUxwI1IFV0/видео.html