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It’s a good 4 in or more, but I used a very good quality concrete. I’m hoping for the best. Worst case scenario, if the whole house starts vibrating, I’ll move the machine and install a new slab. Fingers crossed! 🤞🏻

@@BlaiseBarrette I didn’t think about the house vibrating haha. Guess I should’ve thought about all that before buying the machine. Thanks for responding! Love your videos!

Thank you for checking up on me @thomasmitretta3309 ! I haven’t worked much on the Fadal since. I had a bug in the software. A corrupted file. I got discouraged a bit and started to work on other projects. I guess I was tired more than I realized and needed a break! I promise I’ll get back to it. Eventually! Don’t give up on me yet! Merry Christmas and happy new year!

@@BlaiseBarrette don't let it get you down, your videos have helped me more than you know and I'm sure there are others that feel the same. I'm going to tear down my 4020 this year and your videos are an excellent resource for everyone tempting to undertake this project. Best wishes and will catch up on your progress soon.

I bought them at Bearings Canada www.bearingscanada.com The exact balls I ordered: www.bearingscanada.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Kit12743

@@BlaiseBarrette thank you! Is there a reason you went with stainless? I'm guessing stainless would be softer then most other alloys but still pretty tough? From things I read online it says they should wear quicker then the screw. Just picked up a 6030 and the X axes oil line seems to have been broke for a while, 5 thou backlash but it has the same backlash threw the same length. I'm more of a hobbyist like yourself. If I can just tighten it up and get it back Down to a thou it would be great! Priced a new screw and the cheapest option was about 2,000 Canadian shipped plus what ever duties we get dinged. One last question. Did you order the thrust bearings from a fadal parts place or source them? I saw the video on 60 degree bearings being better then the original 40 degree. Would love to upgrade it while It's apart. Great videos! Helped a lot so far

I couldn’t find any info on bearings type so I took a guess with stainless. Here are the thrust bearings I ordered: www.bearingscanada.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2-Contact-7304B-20x52x15

@@BlaiseBarrette thank you, I'll give them a ring Monday. In some videos I see the bearings are for sure magnetic, in other videos it's hard to tell.

www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003000517374.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.31d31802YozsIx

Hey! I’m fine! Thanks for asking! I have been working on other projects lately but I’ll eventually get back to it. 😊

@BlaiseBarrette thank you for your response sir.

Thank you for taking all of this time writing such an exhaustive procedure! I will look into it. Research further. There is so much to know! I tried to get help from the bearing sales people with no luck. They told me they are preloaded and are simply installed face to face. That’s all I could get from them. Again, thank you for bringing this to my attention. - Blaise

@@BlaiseBarrette yes if your using a single row bearing then you need 2 bearing for 2 direction. Another option is 1 double row bearing. I think your on the right track with using 2 for higher load. I agree it is a lot. I dont know all of it either. You can message me and i can try and answer your question.

@@ryanturner9958 Thanks Ryan!

Glad you found this trick useful! I use it in a few setups at the shop! As for the Fadal, I started working on other projects and it’s been collecting dust ever since! I feel bad about this. I’ll get back to it eventually.

Madness seems a little harsh! Hahaha!!! Glad to see my videos are helping! Pest of luck with your machine!

Glad this was useful! Good luck with your machine! ;)

Thanks! :)

Thanks! 🤪

This was the test run. It’s been speed up quite a lot since then.

Your opinion sux

I'm interested you know why you think that?

@@astrobot3000 ? Too much to drink yesterday probably

It's water soluble cutting oil 🛢️

@@matthewspry4217 AKA Delicious, nutritious milk.

Thanks! ;)

That adds another operation. If you are doing production, this is better.

​@@ArclightZRO nah, if you're doing actual production with a significant qty this is almost never better. A horizontal bandsaw will do it *_far_* more quickly & efficiently & then allow for actually running a decently sized end mill with a far better aspect ratio in a climb cut "around the box" far more aggressively than full slotting with the 3/8" x 2" long (or whatever it is) end mill that's on there right now. Also, efficiently programmed rapids & maybe a slightly stiffer setup. The mix of conventional & climb cutting, bit of room for improvement on setup, lack of judicious use of well planned rapids, and the wasted time of fit farting around with "scrap pullers" just screams "making do" and/or a prototype and/or very low qty run. Still, it's a neat solution & nothing wrong with it if it works. *_If_* one has the equipment available, the major determining factors here would be the remaining cycle time for these parts, the qty required, and whether or not he & the machine have anything else to do. If the cycle is long enough to be able to load a stack of these in the bandsaw, cut, flip, and cut, the qty is great enough to warrant putting the setup time in the bandsaw op, and other jobs are waiting, that would likely be the best way to do it. Using spindle time in an expensive mill to perform work that can be done more quickly on a cheap bandsaw while the mill is still chugging away just usually isn't making the best use of the mill if it can be avoided. Better yet would be getting rid of the need to lop off that material if possible by cutting close to length before bending or having the material come through the door already formed & cut close to length if the qty is sufficient enough to not get killed by the supplier. Basically, there are rarely absolutes in this biz. :)

I take it you're not a machinist.

@@PhoSooGood Reiwas has welder brain.

@@theofficialczex1708, as a toolmaker, that is hilariously true!

I could do this with a hacksaw.

If you still need to face after the bandsaw, then you have added another step in the process.

We used to cut them first on the bandsaw. This is faster or at least as fast and one less manipulation.

So far so good!

Yess! Agreed. Some suggested surgical tubing.

If you look closer, you’ll see that I did a first pass with a larger cutter. The 1/4 in end mill only cuts about .05 in thick.

As a moldbuilder who machines tool steel mostly, when we mill aluminum, we shout “Ludicrous Speed!” (from Spaceballs😆)

​@@filster1934 they've gone to plaid!!

@@Iceberg86300, “Stop this thing!! Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.”

@@filster1934 1-2-3-4-5? That's something an idiot would have as the combo on his luggage! -Remind me too change the combination on my luggage. 🤣🤣 SUCH a good movie!!