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Hello I have a C126 5.6L and the engine won't start. I press the KE-Jetronic sensor plate slightly with my finger and the engine starts. Can you give me some advice on what could be causing this?

5.4 is bether? Less gas mileage?

Oh Boy....... Thought about doing this too but I dont drive mine enough and going back with rubber instead of a poly irks me

Hi there ,what is an alternative measuring device to measure on off ratio counter ,the Bosch tester is no where to be found , would give me a hint?

Nice job! I did it on mine and it takes time but finally not complex ! You can also change motor mounts and many other parts while you are here ! They are not easily accessible with subframe in place.

Nice! Where did you get the straps with the metal hooks at the end?

That’s the way to do it. Happy holidays

I wish someone could make an intake manifold and updated fuel injection to do away with the fuel system nonsense on these cars.

Great video, I would never in a million years attempt to take that apart...so many parts to refit exactly right. Also, was your fuel pump making a whining noise when the car was running? If so, do you notice a difference now? Thanks for sharing.

I recently acquired a 1981 380sl for free. It had been sitting in my neighbor's driveway for 15 years. ruclips.net/video/OXuDYs3dCOQ/видео.html To get to the point, I can not get the car to run. OK, I can get it started, but it will not accelerate but it idles smoothly. I do not know much about Mercedes, I am learning on line. Thanks for the videos by the way. When it is idling, I push down on the pedal and the engine bogs down or dies. If I gently push down on the air flow plate it speeds up. I have checked the Idle control valve and the WUR. Seem to be working. If this was a British car I would be looking for a vacuum leak. One other thing, the Tach does not work and there is no power to several fuses in the fuse box. My problem is, I don't know where to look for the problem on this car. Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks. Bob

I think you should clean those oil pipes also, and replace plastic tubes, check hydraulic compensators, and adjust rocker arm clerance with thicker washers. Nice work with intake manifold.

what's the name of the part behind the fuel injection?

Fantastic tutorial - thanks for sharing! Starting overhaul of the WUR on my 85 380SL and this is incredibly helpful. Did manage to carefully work my screens out (patience and a pick/tiny screwdriver) and soak them in acetone. They don't seem too dirty but I really do wonder if they are necessary.

Could you please link the M12x1.5 barbed hose connectors?

Very nice tanks for this class,

is there a part 2?

I also want to overhaul my WUR. it is the same as theirs. Can you write me the spare part number?

Nice work. I envy the easily accessible adjusters that the 8 cylinder fuel distributor has. On my 4 cylinder distributor, the adjusters are on the bottom. . After a couple of times of unbolting the thing to access the adjusters I finally just started using a clamp to push in the control plunger. Then a few months later I swapped in a HFM m104, and have been happily k-jetronic free ever since.

Very hard work, I have to do the in my 300 E 24. Thanks.

Does the car run well when filling at 100cc/min? Our specialists usually set it to 160-170

Espectacular!!! A velocidad normal estaría mejor, para mi gusto. Muchas gracias

Awesome video! When you took out those clogged little filters, did you put them back in, or did you just leave them out.

Thank you for the great video. I checked my fuel installation and have the following questions: 1. How to increase the fuel pressure in the pressure regulator to 5-5.6 bar, I have 4.8 bar. (closed valve)? 2. Fuel flows through the WUR but the pressure is only 1 bar instead of 1.8-2.2 bar (valve open). WUR to be repaired?

This video was one of the best I have seen yet about this subject. No dialogue is good; it is well-lit and very informative about the disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling of the parts. You're the man. Thank you 👍👍👍

Are the parts the same for a Mercedes 500 SEL??

Ganda Garage, thanks so much for investing your time into these videos! I bought a family member's Euro 500sl this spring, and I'm looking forward to bringing it back to life. These videos will help!

What a brilliant and very helpful video. Thank you.

Hi, how much do you need to unscrew the screws to get 100 ml per minute?

sehr gutes VIDEO!!!! BRAVO!!!

3.0 should be without vacuum, 3.8 with it.

Man, this is exactly what I need to get my customer's vehicle running proper! Thanks for vid!

Why do you need that stupid music ?

prehistoric

Hi, great video resource, i am curious about the timing and the new advance, did find out the issue..?

Hi, did you ever made a video for timing and the advance you installed?

I need to get to where the vacuum advance (distributor) line plugs into the throttle valve housing as it has been disconnected at the housing. Does everything in your video need to be removed to gain access? Any alternatives? Thanks

so are you saying that part number 158 A1265407045 only fits years after 83?

Man that background music was doing my head in. Good DIY setup and i am going to follow your path on my 3 x 560 300hp Euro engines.

Is there like any manuals or in depth instructions and tools needed to remove the air flow sensor I've been looking like crazy and i cant seem to find nothing anything helps i got a 500 sel

Great videos. Nicely lit, in focus, and no blah blah blah. Thanks for creating this valuable resource for the community.

Go to a junk yard and buy old cis lines .

i need a new tank

the one mistake MB did....fuel should go past the filter then the pump,this set up is the opposite

How can I get the video in slow motion 😂

Love your videos! I have an 85 380SL for a while now and it has never been running for years. Fuel system was shot and have to replace many parts including sending out fuel manifold to CIS Flow Tech to get it rebuild. I brought the car to mechanic who specializes in SL and got it running but not to the point that I can test drive on the road, and I have to move to other state. The car started fine and idle at 700 rpm but if I rep it up, it will bog and die right away so I wait several minutes till it warmed up before step on gas, it got to 1800 RPM then bogged down. The WUR was also rebuild few times and the latest rebuild, follow your video. I disassembled WUR and changed some adjustment with tapping the bi-metal pin back up flush to the surface but no change there except making the idle worse and control and system pressure still very high. I tapped it back down from the top and still no change in fuel pressure. I have rigged the fuel pressure test kit exactly like yours and follow steps the same way. When pump is turned on, Initial Control pressure test with fuel shutoff OFF, the gage reads 7.2 bar. System pressure also reads 8.2. When engine started, the gage reads 8.2 bar. I let it run for several minutes and monitored WUR temp rise, but gage still read at 8.2. I also loosen the return line on top WUR and fuel squirt right out so no clog there. I test resistant on bi-metal on WUR and power to it and it seemed to be working fine. I thought the fuel pump is bad so bought and installed new Bosh pump and now control and system pressure is way up to around 10 bar. Any suggestion is kindly appreciated.

Great resource, thanks for taking the time to make the video. What an improvement and job well done! I have my 84 380sl on stands, about to tackle this same job.

At 17:59 you show the plunger being held in by a bent clip. Ive seen other videos set the plunger low position. How would the plunger's lowest position be set on this distributor?

My fuel pump goes noisy and the car jerks after 15mins driving. I suspect the fuel pressure valve is not working and the high pressure strains the pump. The valve (on left at 0:47) looks like its adjustable. I cant turn the allen key. Is it adjustable?

What are the fittings at the distributor? Thanks