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My plays were: 1.) 22/16, 4/1 2.) 12/7, 6/4* 3.) 13/7*, 7/3* 4.) 6/5(2), 8/7(2) 5.) 6/5, 5/1 6.) 24/18, 5/4 7.) 6/1*, 13/9 8.) 23/18 9.) 13/9, 8/3 10.) 24/18*, 7/5

The more I play the more I love backgammon & the more I learn the more I need to learn! How did such a simple game get so complex & deep?

is there a video of FAQ that explains how to use the app? How often are "bonus" rounds offered?

It’s about looking ahead more than just the next play. Playing to win rather than playing not to lose. Well presented.

Just discovered your channel. Only two videos in but really great content.

Dan a really good video with expert analysis from Will Snelling and yourself. you mentioned that you have the written explanations available any chance of you sending me a copy please. Thanks in advance

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7:10 double 6s don't help Green at all, he'll be stuck on the bar

He doesn't hold back.

I think the trickiest too good to spot by far is whenever back game strategies are involved, either playing against the back game (this is probably more often "no double" not "too good", or a mix of the 2 in a way) or after the back game player has successfully hit with a strong home board and starts mobilising the back checkers. It's very tempting to cash out when the game finally swings in your favour after so long hoping on the back game, good to remember that when the back game pays off it pays off spectacularly!

Fascinating to learn how the cube concepts influence checker play, as a beginner/intermediate it's so tempting to think of them as 2 separate halves of the game but this holistic perspective is very valuable and eye opening, thank you. I think how I rephrased the lesson to make the most sense to me personally was that leaving things up to chance in the long term (random fluctuations over the course of close long races) benefits the cube owner, so you need a more aggressive game plan, taking measured risks to create a bigger lead to carry through to the end.

I think the discussion at 4:23 slightly misses why 8/4* 5/4 is so much better than 8/4* 6/5. After calculating through the shots I came up with slightly different numbers to the ones quoted in the video and the truth is a bit more complicated than better coverage of the home board blot thanks to the direct 6, it seems to be more to do with the flexibility to use some of the rolls that don't cover to reposition the blot and make a different home board point. There is no single reason why it's better, the rolls just work out in quite frankly a beautiful way ❤in a way, although the direct 6 coverage is good, if you compare the positions you have the same number of direct builders but 1 fewer indirect builders so the gains aren't as big as you might expect intuitively for simple coverage. If we are only interested in rolls that cover the home board blot where it is currently, using direct and indirect shots from each of the points, then for 8/4* 5/4 there are 31 (all except 54, 52, and 55) and for 8/4* 6/5 there are 30 (all except 65, 53, 66 and 55) so not much of a difference in terms of simple coverage. However if we extend the rolls to include ways to keep the blot safe on a lower point then the 54 and 52 can be used to make the 1 and 3 points respectively for the 8/4* 5/4 scenario, whereas only the 53 can be used to make the 1 point for the 8/4* 6/5 scenario. After taking this into account, for the 8/4* 5/4 scenario 35 out of 36 rolls are safe whereas for the 8/4* 6/5 scenario 32 out of 36 are safe. A somewhat general principle that underpins this is that the higher blot had more mobility options to make use of the higher rolls and make the lower points.

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Thank you Dan. Well done, easy to remember brief summary of very important match play concepts.

Great video. Also with the 10 point to clear, 64 works. With the 11 point to clear, no non-doublets work.

Thank you for another great video.

Thank you for another great video Dan. One thing I think about in such positions is as follows: After hitting, green's ones play well. How do they play after not hitting?

Thanks Dan. This reminds me of the importance of looking at BOTH my whole board AND my opponent's entire board before making my move. The fact that opponent is so inflexible is critical to this play.

Do you have a Patreon page?

Someone should think, your channel should have more views, since you are already presenting in a very good understandable and structured english to a wide audience. Thank you very much for your work, was and still is quite helpful for my game.

Why is clearing the four point correct with a 4+1, put wrong with a 3+1? They both leave only two shots, and they're both the same risk for long-term safety

Great content. Have you made any videos when you talk about the volatility of a position? Under Analysis and 'Dice distribution' at the bottom you can see the value displayed.

This is really a great video. There is so much here so many rules of thumb that can simplify things over the board. Thanks!

Excellent video/info as usual… thanks, Dan!

That's so interesting.thank you Dan. Now the 4pt HG and the 18 pt hg are next ?😊❤

So basically almost every time we got to double there :)

Thanks, Dan! Very appreciate... Im looking forward 18pt holding game references😊

Another great video as usual do hou have instagram somi can reach to you and ask som positions

Another great video

Hi Dan, a request please: can you please make more use of filling the entire screen with the presentation? Currently, it is too small as there is too much 'white space' on the screen. For example, since the two boards are exactly the same, show only one board and then below it the two XG valuation squares, one on the left and one on the right. This will make viewability better. Thanks for considering and thanks for the videos.

nice

it's maybe worth explaining why this is "always" a cube for white even if clearing the 6-away point is such a headache. the thing is we have 5 big market losers (11 through 55) and then also market loss when we're forced off our 11 point but then our opponent misses (half of 61 62 63 64, so the equivalent of 4 rolls). So even if our advantage is not that clear, we need to cube this as soon as we can. The only exception is some sort of terribly crunched board and/or an even race (opp can just win the race)

In the example on the 10 point, 55 also leaves a shot

Another good concept to think about, thanks Dan.

Excellent video I'm glad you learn something everytime we play

Thanks Dan I appreciate you taking time to explain all these backgammon concepts. Do you have a video on holding game cubes? 115/15 120/,20 etc...

Danke…appreciate the info/your videos!

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This is a fantastic video for learning backgammon! The explanation is clear, concise, and covers everything you need to know.

Great tips thanks

Great, thanks Dan

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Have very much enjoyed all the lessons. In fact, I have gone through the first 50 and intend to go through the rest. I did notice that the vast majority pertain to checker play and not cube play. It would be very helpful to have more videos on the cube.

Excellent Video

Great videos. The volume is so much better.

Awesome as always Dan. all the best - salsaguy

Very important lesson! Thanks a lot, Dan❤

That holding game cube was so instructive! I need to look at these. It looks like an easy take at any score. :o

Thank you for another outstanding video

Hi Dan. thanks for upload video