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Most of it should work except maybe the ducting, but if you have most of your factory components, "Original Air Group" or "Classic Auto Air" sells parts to make the factory stuff work. You would install a new compressor, condenser, lines, and preferably evaporator (for best performance) and you would switch to 134A refrigerant. Thanks for watching and I wish you the best of luck with your project!

Thanks! I'll let him know! Hope everything went great, I forgot to include unplugging the turn signals in the bumper in this video, hope you caught that. Thanks for watching!

Sorry to take so long, I meant to reply earlier. Vintage Air has moved onto their generation V kit now, which is available with or without the compressor and bracketry. Here is the complete kit: vintageair.com/1982-88-oldsmobile-cutlass-with-factory-air-gen-5-magnum-max-surefit-complete-kit/ They also have kits available without the compressor if you already have one included with an aftermarket pulley system or something. Thanks for watching! A company called "Affordable Street Rods" stocks their systems and is where I bought mine. Thanks again!

Thank you, I appreciate it!

It's for the power antenna (the radio has an accessory power wire that triggers this relay if I remember correctly), and it might also power an amplifier optionally. I think the Pink one comes from the radio, and Orange is typically positive 12V on GM stuff. I can't remember what the side of the relay with the green and gray wire is for, possibly also for the stereo or lighting. Thanks for watching!

@@keefershotrodshop thank you

Haha, thanks! Thanks for watching!

Thank you, Glad the video is helpful. I had a friend machine them from a pair of cylindrical ones that come with the Mittler Brother's kit which were intended for a MoPar bearing size application. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Thanks for watching.

Thanks again!

Thanks! I appreciate it and thanks for watching!

I have a lot of projects going on at once, but sometimes I do get to clean up a bit (Check out 2:33 ). As I get projects together and out, I should be able to establish a little more clear space. Thanks for watching!

I get it, I go until all tools are our and all cords are in knots...then I stop and regroup. Your talent is over the top as is the sheer perfection of your work.

@@bobkillion9681 That's the way! haha. Thank you, I appreciate it. Thanks again for watching and chiming in.

I have done a little bit of math in my Chevelle Part 4 video and touch on some in my Part 5 video. I've been wanting to do more, but most people skip that part of the videos and it's hard to explain and boring as well. I might try to put a dedicated video up, though. The way I do everything is to design the center line of each tube using straight lines and hard corners and then calculate the span of each bend using trigonometry, angle, and bend center-line-radius. I figure out how much length the bends occupy (not take-up, that requires material properties and something called the "k factor" of the material; I measure from each bend after I make it), and using the span of the bends, I can figure straight length between bends too. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks! I appreciate it. You can do it! Good luck and thanks again for watching!

I am so impressed by your math skills. The ones that you use to calculate those bend angles. I feel like I’m taking the easy road by using Bend Tech Software. I could not do that math I see on your pages. Also your forethought in deciding where to route the bars. Going through the end of the dash on that 69 is much harder than the 70 which is removable. But the tight roof and windshield angles are very impressive. Thanks

Haha, Thanks! I love El Caminos and especially Caballeros. Enjoy the A/C! Thanks for watching and commenting. Good to hear from a fellow hair farmer!

@@keefershotrodshop have had long hair my whole life. 50 now n I have donated it to locks of love which takes ur hair n they make wigs for kids with illnesses. Hair farmer lol.. We have 3 el caminos and a 82 cutlass. I was ready to install a heat only system from a base model el camino but I wanted atleast one of my old cars to have everything it came with and so my wife would drive it. Great video

Haha, yeah, I hate to throw a bar away just because I bent it the wrong way. It's tough when you know the angle, but have to figure out which way to angle it, and it's almost always upside down and backwards when in the bender. Thanks for tuning in!

It's surprising how much things can move when you start putting heat into them. Thanks for noticing, I try to put a lot of thought and care into everything, but sometimes materials can surprise you. Thanks for watching!

Thanks, I appreciate that. A good, tight fitment helps a ton with avoiding having the tubes move around when they are welded together. I always use a pedal with the welder. Thanks for watching and chiming in!

Thanks, I appreciate you noticing. I definitely like to fit everything tight. Tubes move a lot with even the slightest gap. When the weld cools, it can really load the structure and warp things quickly. Thanks for watching and chiming in!

@@keefershotrodshop you're welcome! I subscribed as well.

@@jeffallen3382 Thank you very much!

Thank you! Sorry to take ages to get this one posted, I have another one filmed and I just need to set aside the time to edit it and post it. Thanks for watching!

@@keefershotrodshop no need to apologise Mate! I really enjoy your videos and you have great skills, and I’m looking to the next one 😎

My experience is with Creo Parametric. CAD software is nearly pointless without CNC equipment to carry out the operations. You can use it for modeling complicated stuff, but without a CNC bender or rotary cutter, I would still have to make the actual parts by hand, and without a 3D scanner, I would still have to measure all parameters manually. I'm hoping to shift into CAD CAM and CNC stuff in the next year or so, not necessarily with tubing, but with other parts I'm wanting to make. I'll be sure to keep everyone posted with that stuff. Thanks for watching!

@keefershotrodshop I have no experience using cad for tube work....but seems modeling wit cad...then using measure tool in cad would be useful...what do I know....for tube work I usually just wing it ...have some scrapped parts at times but I get er done

@@jaythorne5208 It'd probably help, especially if i was really sufficient with it and quick with modeling. There'll always be mistakes and redos, but everyone has their methods for sure. Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment!

It's certainly a complicated tube!

Haha Thanks! Glad it helped.

Is the engine and transmission offset to the passenger side like stock, or centered in the chassis/truck?

@@keefershotrodshop there is no engine and trans in it yet

@@cortezcrawford154 Sorry.. WILL the engine and transmission be offset to the passenger side like stock, or centered in the chassis/truck?

@@keefershotrodshop centered

​@@cortezcrawford154 Alright, I gotya. The first thing I would check, if the truck has an anti roll bar in it, is to see if that anti roll bar is adjusted such that it is loading the suspension to make it lean that way. If it doesn't have an anti roll bar in the truck or if it isn't hooked up, since it's on coilovers, I'd check to see if the spring adjusters on the shocks are set such that one side would sit higher than the other side. With the truck having nothing in it, it should sit pretty close to level with the spring adjusters set evenly side-to-side (maybe a tiny bit lower if the driver side does have a bit more weight). Once everything is in the truck, and it's ready to race, you will want to set the shocks up so that the truck sits level and the suspension will need to be preloaded to force the passenger/right rear tire down a bit more than the driver/left rear with the driver in the car. This is to counteract the reaction of the driveshaft and pinion reacting against the ring gear and axles/wheels/tires trying to force the driver/left side tire down when power is applied. This preload is tuned/adjusted to make the vehicle drive straight on the track under power. With a parallel 4 link, this preload will be done by adjusting the bars (typically tuned with the upper right/passenger bar) and then setting the anti roll bar neutral once adjusted. With ladder bars this preload will be made by adjusting the ladder bars to force the right/passenger rear tire down a little more and setting the anti roll bar neutral once adjusted, but with a triangulated 4 link, 3 link, or some leaf spring suspensions, the anti roll bar is used to establish this preload. Good luck with it, I hope you can figure out why it's doing that. You'll just have to start measuring everything to understand what is going on.

Thanks! I love building housings. The pucks and bar are a kit made by Mittler Brothers. It's a nice kit with pucks for a lot of different bearing sizes. The conical tapered ones are actually a pair of their pucks designed to fit in a mopar center section that I had a friend machine down from cylindrical to conical in shape. I am using 2 more of the pucks, that are included in the kit, in the setup 9 inch 3rd member in-place where the carrier bearings go in order to hold the bar in place. Thanks for watching!

@@keefershotrodshop thanks for the reply. I’ll look into that thanks, shipping to Australia will be the issue 😂 Keep up the cool videos 👍

@@benjamincrouch583 No problem, it's a heavy kit, and might cost a bit to get over there. I'll endeavor to keep the videos coming, I have started editing my next one. Good luck getting an alignment jig and thanks again for watching!

That's really cool! Thanks for checking out the video and sharing that awesome coincidence! I was down in Orlando at the drag strip last month for Sick Week. It's a small world! I love Fairmonts and 70's GM trucks a lot, the 79's are always cool to see with the unique headlight bezel.

@@keefershotrodshop I'm moving back to Titusville in November, next time your down there give me shout. Titusville is just 25 miles from Drag Strip, strait down Highway 50.

@@TheREALOC1972 Cool!

Thanks, I just like to take my time and plan everything as well as I can. I appreciate the compliment and thanks for watching!

Thanks! Will do. I'll be putting more up on the Chevelle build in the next few weeks. Thanks for watching!

Thanks, glad it helped. I'm going to need those! Thanks for watching

Thanks! Glad it helped.

Thank you! It's important that the harnesses are angled and positioned properly. The seat can be moved in relation to the harness bar if necessary, but it's nice to be able to position those tubes to where they need to be with the driver positioned where he/she wants to be in the car. The Kirkey seats are simple and light, which makes them popular, but something like a Racetech containment seat can add safety for more serious setups at additional cost and are a little trickier to fit. Thanks again for watching!

More to come on the Chevelle soon!

Thanks! Thanks for watching, John!

Thank you! It takes a lot of planning for sure! Thanks for watching.

@@keefershotrodshop I just finished up my 1st cage and it was 8.50 certified last weekend.

@@Moparmaga-1 Very cool! Good job!

'67 Novas are awesome! Unfortunately I have no way of building and shipping anything like a full floor structure for that car at this time. If you plan to do a tube front (Are you referring to a strut-type front end, or perhaps you mean one that bolts on like factory?), and a 4 link with big slicks, you, in essence, would have a full tube chassis car. A floor structure like the one in the video is for cars (generally) going quicker than an 8.50 ET in the quarter mile. If you have an appropriate roll cage to go quicker than an 8.50 ET, the car will be required to have a floor structure similar to this. If you only intend to run an 8.50 ET or slower, the floor structure can be of a more simple design in some ways, but some kind of strong connection between your front and rear frame rails/structures is highly recommended. A structure like a 25.5 or 25.3 floor structure would be a great choice for any build, or, for something slower than an 8.50, simple rectangular or round tube subframe connector type tubes would suffice. What kind of racing and/or ET are you looking to do/achieve? Thanks for watching!

Cool! Thanks, I hope the video helps!

I hear you! 8 second cars are really cool and plenty fast! 7's are pretty serious, but obtainable with the right investment these days. Good luck with your project and have fun with it! Another thing to consider is the different NHRA license levels and safety requirements. Once you get faster than 7.50, you need things like a driveshaft tube, and a more serious NHRA license that requires health physicals and stuff like that if you want to do NHRA events. Plenty to consider. Thanks again.

Haha, I definitely want to make it as safe as possible! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the compliment! I feel like I still have a lot to learn and a lot of experience to gain, but I just try to make sure everything is clean and set up right, and it's also important not to overheat the metal (especially with chromoly). Using the gas lens tends to make the welds a lot cleaner, and I run the Argon in the mid 20's CFH. It's good to weld with the amperage set as high as possible without the arc blowing through the metal so that you can move along the weld joint quickly which helps keep overall heat down in the part. Setting up so that you're comfortable while welding and so that you can clearly see what you are welding helps a lot too, mainly with consistency and weld placement. Thanks again, and thanks for watching!

Thanks for your comment

@@carrolpatterson776 No problem, good luck with your projects!

Thanks. Out of curiosity, what kind of cage are you building? It might not hurt to get a little more 1 5/8 .083 if you're doing a 25.5 or something. Main hoop is 12 or 13 feet typically, door bars are about 10 feet (25.5 can use 1 1/2 passenger side), if you need rocker bars (depending on frame style and how much stock body you have left), those use about 9 feet, Roof and A pillar stuff uses almost 20 feet, rear main hoop support bars typically use 4 or 5 feet each, in a 25.5, there are a few funny car bars that are 1 5/8 too. 25.5's use a good amount of 1 1/2 .065; . The funny car bars are mostly made of 1 1/2 and depending on how you do them, the #15 main hoop cross bar either needs to be 1 5/8 or 1 1/2, and it's a little over 4 feet long typically. A lot depends on how everything is done. The other thing is when mistakes are made, which does happen. Sorry to go on forever, just wanted to give you an idea of how much the cage style can change how much of which size tubing you need. Thanks again.

⁠ No need to apologize. Details are always welcome. I’m torn between the 25.5 and 25.3. I’m not sure my heavy car will ever see 6.50 ETs. Your points are appreciated. You know the old A Bodies have a factory frame. I’m going to supplement that with additional bars for reinforcement. I’m trying to lighten but keep that factory frame under the car. I hope that isn’t a mistake. Building a completely new front suspension wasn’t in my plans. But would shave weight. I’ll compare notes with your suggestions and revise my tubing order accordingly. I’m certain your opinion matters, at least to me. Thanks, Mark

@@anetworkservice Sorry, I didn't remember you were working on an A body. The 25.3 uses slightly bigger door X secondary tubes, and has the extra inner rear funny car tube mandatory, but other than that, the main differences are in the roof area. 1 1/8" roof X and more gusseting in the roof and cowl area depending on how you build it (also no square tubing, MIG welds, or mild steel tubing allowed in the 25.3 chassis). With an A Body, the stock frame rails are below and outside of the driver, so they're definitely good to use as rocker bars with the proper boxing for the 6a and 6b front crossmember bars, the #1 rear cross member and #9 seat bar and stuff like that. If I recall SFI wants you to have stock rockers, cowl, and maybe even the hinge posts to use them (I'd have to look back through the book to check). The 25.2 spec requires tubular rocker bars, but that's the 3200 lb. 6.0 cert (Lighter car) as you probably know. It's hard to decide between a 25.5 and 25.3, because you don't want to have to add tubes later, but if you ever start running low 7's or into the 6's, you should have them. For a car weighing between 3200 and 3600 lbs, to get into the 6's takes close to 3000 hp depending on a few variables. You could probably go quicker than a 7.50 with about 2000 HP. What you could do is, build the 25.5 spec with all the correct tubing sizes for a 25.3 (maybe even do the entire roof X or just do a diagonal with 1 1/8" instead of 1"), and be able to add all of the 25.3 gussets later if you wanted, but you'd be really close to a 25.3 at that point. It just depends on what you want to do. A 25.5 keeps it relatively simple and light.

Thanks! Sometimes I, myself, feel like I talk too much in my videos, but I have a hard time editing it out, because I like to explain everything. Thank you for letting me know the commentary is appreciated! Thanks again for watching.

I second this. Love the explaining why. I built a 9in in college for my dad I guess I'm have to buy the stuff and make another one thankfully I saved my blue prints for it

@@ClumsyGamerGuy Very cool!

Looks amazing! I thought you’d need at least two passes on the ends. Great job!

Thanks! Welding the ends on can be a little tricky to keep them straight, but I had such a nice, flat, gapless fit between the ends and the tubes, they didn't tilt enough to even bind the setup bar during welding (I spin it periodically to make sure everything stays in-line), so it worked out really well. Three total passes (2 over the initial pass) was definitely the way to go, as only two would leave the joint a little thin. Thanks for watching! Also, the Chevelle cage is made of a few different sizes of tubing. I am still working on finishing it, but, off the top of my head, it'll probably end up being something like 3 or 4 20' sticks of 1 5/8 .083, a stick or 2 of 1 1/2 .065, then several feet of 1" .049 and 3/4" .049 for gussets and helmet bars. It'll also be getting most of a stick of 1 1/4 .058 for the door X's and dash bar, and maybe some more if it ends up getting floor diagonals. Thanks again for watching!

HAHA, lots of good lines for sure! Thanks!

It's definitely advantageous learning how to weld with both hands. The hardest thing for me is maintaining consistency in regards to bead length and travel speed hand to hand. Interestingly, the same goes for the foot pedal. I can use either foot, but I tend to favor my left. I used to switch feet more, but usually stick to the left unless I need to switch. I write left handed, but I do many things right handed, such as using scissors. At this point, the hand that holds the torch in the best position is the one that feels easiest to me, but if I could go either way, I think I'd be temped to choose my left hand. I would say practice with both hands according to which better suits the job you're doing. If you find one hand to be more stable, or consistent, sometimes you can setup the workpiece to accommodate using that hand to weld, but like anything, experience is the only way to gain proficiency. Thanks again for watching and commenting.

Thanks! I'd have to look in/at the unit to check on that. I don't know if there is a filter off the top of my mind. If not, you might be able to put something against the intake if you wanted. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I appreciate it! I like vegas, but I don't have one. Plenty of Fox Bodies around the shop, though. Hopefully I'll be building and racing one of my cars soon. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Yeah, sorry for not posting much recently. I have a ton filmed, but editing takes so much time. Thanks again!

I'm glad the videos help! It makes it worth doing knowing that they help. Thanks for watching!