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I had to break off the 2 metal studs

Ok, this thing is damn hard to get out. What did you use to break the studs? Thanks for your help

I hope it works for you

@@nixfix2981 Update on my end. It was the ABS sensors being over tightened that caused mine to actually bend slightly and not sit exactly flush. My "hand tight" was much more than the OEM 8.0Nm. So everyone... follow the torq specs lol.

Yes, you have to take the tan cover off

I don’t have a video of that but you can buy a new lock band. You hammer it back in and bend the end so you can grab it next time

performanceproadhesives.com/product-category/adhesive/ This was the adhesive that I used and I loved it. No issues at all. As far as sealant I just used white 100% silicone. I think thank the least amount of cutting is best. Sounds like your on the right track.

@@nixfix2981 thx now I’m needing do a skim coat of FeatherSet mortar over waterproofing. No biggie just want this job done. Bonding SPC panels to the motors shan’t have any issues using a few different adhesives available.would get this stuff but want start like yesterday

Witch carb can you please send me the name or link ?? How you made it pull gas ?

@@user-wj1xe4nr8m Is just a carb for 1993 to 2000 Honda, four trax 300. Gas is just gravity flow. The company was ATracy no part. Nunmber..has 763 ratings at this time.... but alot like this on amazon.. Im sure its made in china... but it fit bolted right up. Was 37 dollars. Now i will clean mine an have a spare i guess.

Did you have little metal flakes on the sensors when you pulled them out?

@@nixfix2981 yeah it did only the passenger side, I cleaned well again and it fixed the noise.. maybe my wheel bearing need to be replaced or something.

@@heberlara6079 as the wheel bearing goes out it will mess with that sensor. Other vehicles are more sensitive than others. My tundra was very sensitive to metal/rust shavings. Almost wrecked multiple times before I had mine changed

I personally don’t change stuff until it breaks. Buttttt in a perfect world yes.

Glad it worked out for you.

How did you take the actuator out.

Great thinking! Thank you for the comment

@@nixfix2981 This turned out to be the problem, was that motor had gone bad on the lock module. I did not have to open up the lock module and fix the motor. I left it retracted and re-installed it with some new M8 bolts. Was real sure to plug every single plug back in including the airbags before connecting the battery, and when I connected the battery, the car started right up, no issues, as if nothing had gone wrong. No computer lights on the dash came on because I plugged in the air bag ahead of time. While the car was running I then went and pulled out the 10 amp Steering Lock Module Fuse thats on the hidden fuse panel behind your battery, and turned off the car. The car has ran fine now and I have started it a few times over the course of the day and so far, looks good.

I hope that helps.

I had seen something similar to what your saying, that probably would have been easier looking back now. But I’m still happy with the outcome

Make sure that your putting the right one in. Or it’s possible that the female threads are messed up?

Glad it worked for you too!

Im try it once im gone

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Yes, all 3 switches need to be pressed at the same time

Great! The cockpit lights when I press the button now! There is a progress when all 3 are pressed at the same time. Just cannot crank when I press the button again unfortunately...any ideas? The remote control locks and unlocks with ease but the car cannot start the engine even when the remote is touching the engine start button of the car.

@@nixfix2981 do you know any trick to make it crank? Now the dashboard lights up but cannot start the engine. The orange key lights up and stays.

@@nixfix2981 Hi. I am stuck :( The lights and the dashboard lights up but cannot turn the engine on. No crank of the engine after pressing the start/stop buton...

same exact problem here with my 09 g37 sedan i actually did this “bypass” a year ago back when there was no videos on it and i was just trying desperately to figure it out and get the car running again but it didnt work for me and i stayed with the same symptoms i originally had before tearing my actutor apart. i took my car to a shop here in phoenix arizona named infiniti motorsports and god what a waist of f*cking time and money that was, 400$ later still in the same shoe but i was basically charged 400 to pull my car out the shop and it ran for a day i noticed a water leak and i parked it and replaced the leaking coolant hose when i go to turn the car on to check if my coolant hose replacement did the job, my car wouldnt start again. went back to the shop got the run around and im contemplating taking it back and having the car held hostage again and be uncomfortable with the shops work or continue to sit on the car till i find a solution, so far ive replaced the ipdm, bypassed the ESCL , took apart the bcm inspected the motherboard and the sunroof drains everything is spic and span but im still getting the same issue, car goes into acc and on and will shut off on its own aswell but it will not cycle the engine.

Lisle 37160 Disconnect Pliers a.co/d/cx9pX4E

You need to flip the glove box down

@@nixfix2981 I still can’t find it can you make a little video of where is it at. Please

Blower motor resistor

A tiny flat head screw driver

I finally got it mine was in there good but got bike up n running real nice thx for video !

I dropped the pump when removing it. I flipped that switch and it has been running great for a month now. Should I still change the diaphragm?

@@nixfix2981 if it's working, don't replace just yet, but they will eventually wear out; start shopping to try to get a good deal on a replacement diaphram set so you're not out $400+ for a new pump when they do finally go out!

@garyr.8116 you were right. Just had to do a rebuild. Works a lot better now

@@nixfix2981 Glad it worked out for you. These pumps only stay happy when the diaphragms/valves on both sides are working 100% - learned myself the hard way!

Easy to change out. Part wasn’t that expensive from Oriellys.

Counter clockwise increases the fuel. Clockwise leans out the fuel. Usually what I do is back it out to 2.5 turns then set my idle. Turn the screw clock until the rpm’s start to climb, the. Back off 1/4-1/2 turn. Seems to work well for me but none of my stuff has working choke cables. Salt water sucks.

It made me nervous because of the gun powder leaking out too.

What’s happening? It goes down to idle and then dies after or rpm’s keep climbing?

Good point! I’ll post soon. Thank you

ruclips.net/user/shortsDitX2GCcjGQ?feature=share Check out this video of the finished product! Let me know what you think.

Yea but mark the coolant level from hot to cold. If the level goes up when engine temperature goes from hot to cold then you have an air bubble trapped in the system somewhere. There are multiple methods for removing air bubbles but it is important that no air is left in the system because it can overheat.

@NixFix I had to change the main hose too, broke at hard fitting at y connector. I filled it to the cool cold fill line. Running now with burp funnel. Engine temp at normal range but still no hot air. I barely see bubbles in over tube, level never changed

Thanks for the comment! I will try to make a video of it next time I run it. She’s out of commission right now, the rear axle seals went out and I got water all up in the rear diff. I hope to do a video on that project soon.

This is just an 18v battery from my ridged power tools.

It lets too much fuel through the carb. Too rich of fuel= loss in power

​@@nixfix2981that's not a mikuni carb, is it?

@@DeepSouthBayouDieselmight be tbh

It will cause you ro say the F word alot!!!

I am almost positive that it is PN: KH570 mastercraft part number and Oriellys carries it too. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/motorcraft/motorcraft-heater-hose-assembly/mot0/kh570/v/a/118906/automotive-truck-2012-ford-f-150?q=Heater+core+hose&pos=0

@@nixfix2981 that is correct, just happened to me yesterday and that's that part number for the hose i bought at o'reilly's

Great idea!!

I did this too & lasted for about a few months & is now leaking again, figured I’d just change the hose (they seem to last about 10yrs/150,000 miles

I loved this bike. So easy to work on just didn’t want to spend the time and money to add breaks to it. The 2x4 models are a pain. If I have an opportunity to get a 4x4 version like this one, it will be hard to pass up

It has o-ring on the inside of the fitting make sure the o-ring didn’t come out of its grove. Other than that, make sure you push it on straight, mine wasn’t terribly hard to put on.

Sounds like a similar issue

Do you still have the problem? I have this same issue with 07 Sequoia.

@@shawnm5955 yes

If you go to a shop or know someone with a nice OBD2 scanner some of them can actually see each wheels speed sensor individually and you can troubleshoot this issue the same way. Removing the sensors, inspecting, and cleaning is not a terribly hard task either

@@nixfix2981 thank you I will do that