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Under edit>machine settings>focus distance you can change your focal distance parameters

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Each tube should have a dedicated power supply. This means that each tube would have to have a dedicated mA meter at the neutral line. Just keep in mind that you’d need a 0-50 mA meter. My video shows a 0-30 mA. A 150w tubes maxes out north of 30 mA but under 50 mA.

OneLaser calibrates their laser tube power supplies perfectly so that you’re getting just about 22 mA at 100%. I did this same thing on my OMTech and it’s WAY off. I max out my tube at 85%.

@@EdmondsWoodshop That's great to know. I'm in the OmTech world still, so having to use a meter to make sure I'm not over driving the tube, annoys me so much. :)

Great video Cam just thinking about Lightburn and the line power test. In printing, a typical operation when dialing color in is to use a linearizarion routine to get the colors to image at a baseline density. Often times, you will see “dot gain” that doesn’t not yield a linear response. An algorithm is applied to the baseline values to make it more predicable. Does b have any such test? For example, if your power starts imbuing at 11% and maxes out at 85%, a compensation curve of sorts could be made to calibrate it. This way you out in 50% power and get and expected result. 100% power in LB actually equates to 85% at the cutter. Just curious on your thoughts? Also, I like the box, is the file shared?

Metro Detroit area

Absolutely. My way is just “a way” of showing how to shim. If it makes sense to do it another way and it works better for you, then absolutely do it. I like that idea.

Yes absolutely. Manually focusing simply works with placing a gauge between the nozzle and the workpiece to set the distance. I prefer this method because I don’t trust OMTechs autofocus

Check out my new alignment video. I did a better job explaining how and when to make the adjustments Laser Mirror Alignment | How To Guide | CO2 ruclips.net/video/GyOKzy-riLE/видео.html

Without being able to see how it was wired, it’s hard to troubleshoot through text, but this is what I would do. I’d double check to make sure my strip is in fact 24v. I’ve had Chinese suppliers send me 12v in a 24v package. If all is good, I would disconnect the two wires for the LED strip from my terminal block and see if my control panel is still flashing. If it is, then it’s something other than the LED strip. If it stops flashing, then it’s the LED strip. Again, After confirm it is 24v you can try to wire it directly into the 24v power supply to see if that’s a better location. I chose not to wire there because of all the hot glue the manufacturer laid down over those wires.

@@EdmondsWoodshop thanks. The lights are 24 volt and i did disconnect and panel was good. i purchased a 24 volt converter and wired directly into it. thank you for your response.

Yes. It’s recommended to be in a dedicated circuit. The in-line fan and the air assist are plugged into the back of the pronto and I run the pronto on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. My chiller is on a separate circuit.

@EdmondsWoodshop i have run a dedicated plug for my pronto 40. Did you also put in a dedicated 8' ground rod within 5' of the machine.

Check out my newer alignment video. It’s a much better process. Laser Mirror Alignment | How To Guide | CO2 ruclips.net/video/GyOKzy-riLE/видео.html If you don’t like it, I challenge you to make your own video. 🧐

Then you’re not aligned from mirror 2 to 3. Get yourself aligned using the adjustment screws even if it’s not hitting the laser head. You may have to make your target bigger to see where it’s hitting. Then shim the tube.

@@EdmondsWoodshop I am at the stage to align 2 to 3 where you say at 18:55 make sure the laser is hitting the target. It’s not from the far position and out of the circle at the near position.

@@EdmondsWoodshopI asked in the fb group too but it won’t let me tag you

They really don’t. I’m guessing they do that to keep cost down. Who knows.

Glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!

You’ll double the voltage for the system which will cause excessive heat and ruin your unit

Join our polar community linked in the description and ask for help there. There can be a few reasons why it’s not firing. For example, if your min and max power don’t match and your min power is too low, then it won’t fire. If you have a water drop with an X on it on the digital screen then you could have a water sensor issue.

2/3rds full. If your unit didn’t come with a manual then you can go to OMTech’s website and and get the electronic manual

Hell yea. Glad you found it helpful

Glad you find it helpful. That’s why we create them because they sure as hell won’t.

Yea....just turn those suckers off in the vendor settings.

The XT is the glass model. You either need the riser base or build a custom base so you can adjust the height of the rotary. The riser base is an additional $500

Do not cut fake leather or vinyl products that contain PVC as part of their chemical makeup. Laser cutting PVC releases toxic fumes that are not only harmful to the body but corrosive to your laser…..no matter how well your ventilation is. The leather that I’m using is a leatherette from JDS specifically made for lasering.

The first batch is going out in Jan. Yes mine was a test unit. They made modifications to the production line up based off our feedback. For example: the XRF will have beam expanders, the laser head weight will be reduced by 30%, the has been software updates to allow a more enjoyable user interface

@EdmondsWoodshop I have been trying to decide between the polar+ and the creality 60w... this wasn't on my radar but now is... seemed like you preferred this to the omtech... does this one have any stand alone capability or is it only software based? And what's the avatar of the RF model? Thanks!

You need the software to drive the laser i.e. apply settings etc but you can load them to the controller (it’ll have limited memory though). The RF version is called the XRF.

@@EdmondsWoodshop sorry autocorrect strikes again, I was asking what the advantage is to the rf model? Thanks

There’s actually quite a few: - faster firing capabilities. This translates to faster speeds - smaller beam spot size which enables finer and more detailed engravings - the RF tube is air cooled rather than liquid cooled making maintenance a lot easier - the metal tube can be refilled unlike glass tubes - average three times the lifespan Disadvantage is the $1000 cost to upgrade, but when you compare cost to overall value, the better choice is the RF Unfortunately, OneLasers prices go up after the new year. The only way to lock in the prices is to put down a $100 deposit or purchase before 12/31 If you go that route please consider plugging in our referral code: LASERGUYS

I don’t have a filter

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Although I haven’t had an issue with this small vacuum, I want to further validate your comment because on my CNC I actually had to wrapper copper wire around my dust collection system and ground it other wise the static discharge would shut down my system. Thank you for bringing this up.

Unfortunately I will not be making anymore content for OMTech until they figure out their business with us.

@@EdmondsWoodshop thanks man, kept making great videos

@@EdmondsWoodshop that's perfect and thanks for the reply, but i have a quick question, is it possible to use the auto focus when using a rotary, i just bought the machine and should be on the way and like to be ready, i actually used the discount code you provided, please help

You need to manually focus with the rotary. They provide focus gauge to set the distance

After installing your tube, it’s worth looking and possibly going through the alignment process How to install your CO2 Laser Tube UPDATED ruclips.net/video/0JPcG7gvKLs/видео.html

I'm glad it helped, it can be a real pain when you can't get things aligned!

Unfortunately if the limit switch is not working then you’ll have to reach out to OMTech for replacements

Dewaxed shellac for the sealer Older shapeoko XXL. If I were to do it again I’d get a onefinity cnc

Which laser do you have? Some of the lasers have grill covers over the ventilation port . Those grills can get clogged if they're not wiped down or scrubbed clean. Some of the grills have to be cleaned on the inside as well.

@ omtech 24/35 it’s brand new just got it few days ago first time cut noticed the smoke wasn’t leaving that much

I misspoke. It’s the Atomstack R1 and yes it plugs directly into the port of the polar 350. I currently use it on my polar 350

@ thanks, that allows me to give away my xtool!!

@ no plug modification??

Nope

In terms of your charring, are you still using the stock lens. In my opinion, that lens needs to be changed out. There are a few makers out there that sell upgrade laser nozzles. I did a video on it. You should be cutting 3mm material like butter. That’s frustrating. I’m sorry you have to deal with that. The camera works. It’ll be accurate within a few mm. My buddy Brandt from BeardedBuildsCo did a camera setup video on the OneLaser desktop.

@ Thanks, I do have the Fiore nozzle and magnetic AP lens.

Me too, the tube in my polar is not lasting very well,

I believe OneLaser will still quote you if you’re in another region. It may be worth an email to sales@1laser.com In regard to diodes, because of their low wattage and beam diameter they can get nice dark and detailed engraving. With the RF tube you can get similar detailing with exceptionally faster speeds, but in my opinion you need the higher wattage RF’s to utilize the faster speeds and darker engravings. For example, I can run a 38w RF at 1200 mm/s and 90% power but the engraving will be light on Baltic birch material. If I had a higher wattage RF then I could get more output at higher speeds. Needless to say I agree with your statement about the 60w RF

I believe they ship to the EU as well, based on a statement from a forum post.

@@EdmondsWoodshop Thanks for your super detailed reply! And thanks for making such practical content!

@@MakerDaddy Guess I’ll message them! 😅

Thanks for watching! I believe they were looking into shipping to APO addresses for you. I remember you asking the question in the OneLaser FB group. I’ll see if I can find out well. You can definitely use with 220. It’s just needs a 220 power supply. I’m trying to get to where you’re at 17 years in the service right now. Currently MSG/E8

​@@EdmondsWoodshop thanks for serving - retirement is close bro, hang in there. The APO shipping is limited to 70 lbs if I'm not mistaken so probably have to deliver via DHL or similar. OneLaser is checking on shipping to Korea as we speak. They did say they would switch to 220v which is nice. I'm really looking forward to getting a nice laser. As for the camera, do you use that much or rely more on jigs, or both? How is the clarity?

Nice meeting you today at great lakes crossing. Steve from Hidden Hills Enterprise

Hahaha I laughed as I said this too. I swear I have maturity of a 6th grader. In regards to the settings, Keep in mind I tried to mildly increase the acceleration just to see if it could be pushed, but it couldn’t before jerking around. 😂

@@EdmondsWoodshopi didnt even know XT is cable of 1200mm/s at full 3G, website says 800mm/s with 3G, thats incredible how their glass tube can perform at that ultra high speed, hows the noise during engraving?

Yeah I was surprised too. You can see me running 1200 on the leatherette towards the end of the video. However, due to the acceleration, it actually took a few seconds longer at 1200 mm/s then it did at 1100 mm/s. The sound was super quiet. Nothing was triggering any concerns

@@EdmondsWoodshop i had the xrf ordered hope they ship it fast

The XRF is the better value for the money in my opinion. I'm actually buying an external air compressor soon and will do a video on it. It should be a relatively easy upgrade as they already have the hook ups for it. I just want to add a solenoid for a water catch first.

Thank you so much. Just wanted to let the facts speak for themselves so people can make an educated decision

Thank you so much for the feedback. It means a lot!

It's nice to have options, my thoughts are the same as your. Thanks for the comment brother!

Yea maintenance was a bit frustrating. Having a quick access nozzle and an enclosed workspace away from the electronics is nice.

@@EdmondsWoodshop Sometimes, I find it difficult to close the lid; the table on which you set the polar needs to be completely level, or the machine will wobble, causing the glass lid to hit the machine's edge. If you put your checkbook under one of its feet, you will see. The internal support structure of the machine and the external frame are not the same piece, and the cable management is terrible, almost seems like that polar was made from whatever scraps you can gather to piece it all together. I was about to go with Mira and then I found Onelaser, perfect solution.