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What a sweet comment! Thanks, and glad it was helpful.- LT

You're so welcome!

Thanks for your kind comment. Glad you found this practical! Smile.

You are most welcome!

Thank you, Virginia! You are generous to take the time to reach out. I'm glad this was helpful for you. - Lizabeth

I have had to throw away many bits ive made ..im using a fine guage machine... omg I just managed to use a crotchet hook to close the top now I have to fix the bottom cos its also not closed. And i started a new peice got really far was so pleased then tried to make the neck and made a huge mess. I just keep telling myself that eventually it will become easy. Maybe it will take a year but then it will be super easy in the end.

You are most welcome!! I'm delighted this little video helped you save your scarf -- and especially your sanity! Smile. You were wise to use smaller needles to pick up the live stitches. That's usually faster and often helps prevent splitting the yarn. Have a great day! - Lizabeth

Hello, thanks for asking. Good question! Even when knitting left-handed, the right leg is forward on the needle, so left-handed knitters will still remount the stitches with the right leg forward. Knitting is a many-splendored craft, so there's more than one way to do it. Because I'm living in the US, I'm using the Western mount and am teaching knitters how to do it that way. However, there is also an Eastern mount, in which the left leg is forward. It's important to be consistent and if you're using a Western mount, have the right leg forward on both the right side and wrong side of your work. If you're using the Eastern mount, have the left leg forward on both the right side and the wrong side of your work. If you have the right leg forward on one side, and the left leg forward on the other side, you will end up with twisted stitches. (Twisted stitches are sometimes used as a design feature, but in general, you're not wanting twisted stitches.) Now, what I say next is just my opinion and there are some knitters out there who will not agree. But my opinion is this: If you're just learning to knit, and have the challenge of knitting both left-handed and using the Eastern mount, it will be more difficult for you to find/follow/figure out directions when performing a technical maneuver such as some increases, decreases, or special textured stitches. Because of that, it may be worth your while to remove at least one of the obstacles, like learning to knit with the mount that is most commonly used in your country or else giving right-handed knitting a try. In the end, knitting should be fun, and I hope you find the way that is most delightful for you! - Lizabeth

​@@GoodyTwoSticksKnitsthank you so much for your response, this is very helpful!! Greetings from the Netherlands ❤🇳🇱

@@joya3468 I'm glad it was helpful. How very nice to have you greet me from the Netherlands! Greetings to you from Minnesota, where the long, cold winters encourage us to knit a lot! Smile! - Liz

Thanks for your kind comment. Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks for your kind encouragement! Have a beautiful day! - Lizabeth

Hi Fernando, thanks for your good question. When I want to join I-cord, I usually just Kitchener stitch them together. Do you have any ideas of your own? Liz

@@GoodyTwoSticksKnits I did 2 square swatches, each with I-cord all around and then joined the 2 pieces but used mattress stitch. It looks good.

@@winningnumbers Oh, so sorry, Fernanado! I misunderstood your question, and was answering how I'd join two ENDS of I-cord. But of course, mattress stitch is an elegant solution to joining two separate I-cord projects. It sounds perfect and beautiful, and yes, that's probably how I would join two separate pieces as well! Good work!

Hello, Anine, thank you for reaching out. Gauge is determined by several factors, the size of the knitting needles, (or as you say, knitting pins) the weight of the yarn, your own personal tension, and can even be affected by the fiber content of the yarn. What I do know about your situation is that the size of pins you're using is too small. What I don't know is what weight yarn is being used, its fiber content, or if you tend to be a tight, average, or loose knitter. My guess, since you're trying to achieve a gauge of 20 stitches per 10 cm, is that you're using a worsted weight yarn. If that is the case, I would venture another guess that moving to a size 4.5 mm pin would get you pretty close to gauge. However, if you're using a finer weight yarn, especially sport or fingering, to use a large enough pin to reach gauge, you would end up with a very loose and drapey fabric. (There are some patterns designed that way, though.) I would suggest continuing to swatch, going up a pin size, then another pin size, and still another pin size, working a purl ridge row to mark where you changed sizes each time. Then block the swatch the way you will block the finished item, allow it to dry, and count the stitches. Does that help? Feel free to contact me again if you have more questions -- especially if the yarn being used is a finer weight. Hope it goes well for you! Oh, you probably realize this by now, but usually our gauge is not the same when working in the round as when working flat. Your swatch should be worked in whichever manner your project will be worked. Have a good day! Lizabeth

I agree! It’s such a happy baby sweater! - L.

I miss you too, Gwen! - All of you! In the meantime, I’m so thankful for each one of you dear Knitters! - Liz

Leslie, thanks. You’re encouraging and kind. And you’re “one of us” now, so I hope to keep hearing from you! Have a healthy and blessed day! - Liz

Thanks again, Cindy. Well, this was YOUR idea! You stay well and safe, too, Friendie. Love and gentle hugs. - Liz