Видео

Thanks for this video, very clear, did the job and saved me $, much appreciated

Thank you so much.. orderer the piece from amazon 9euro.. hard to dissemble and reassemble but very very well explained and showed. Be gentle and sort every screw different from the other. Thanks for saving me 200euro:)

This worked on my v12, exact same oroblem, thank you so much, now to dind a new screen...

Great video👌 Thanks 🙏🙏 Unfortunately in V6 it is impossible to clean , because there is no screw only some metal pin. There is no way to disassemble it.

Brilliant - saved me having to bother with getting it shipped for repair. Hope I won't have to do it again in a few months though! Thanks for the guide.

Howdy! I have a problem with my V7. It runs perfectly in normal mode. Something like mins. If i put it into MAX Mode it directly quits running. Even if the battery was full charged. I also changed the battery, but same mistake... I think there must be an issue on the PCB. Where should I look? Or maybe do you know which part of the PCB I should replace..? I would be very thankfull if you could give me any help

thank you!

V15 detect with similar issue. Display reads fine but machine stops after a second on all modes until after 6-8 attempts and then runs fine on Eco and Auto, but no good on Boost. Bought a new head unit but will try and disconnect the display and see if it cures this one, can always use if for upstairs 🤞🏻 Great video, many thanks, new subscription 👍

That connector is a btch, broke mine and can't find any spare parts unless I chop one off from another accesory. Terrible design and service.

I think the short is in the PCB in my case. When I do a continuity test on the two metal prongs of the pcb I get the beep. I think there may have been water contact inside. Should I let it dry or? The battery is fine and the leads connecting the battery to the pcb also looks fine.

Thanks! My switch wasn’t broken or cracked but apparently just flimsy enough to not always work. Bought a replacement switch that was much stronger plastic and now it works as soon as you start to pull the trigger rather than after squeezing it all the way down and still not working sometimes

Thank you so much!!!

Ty bro

My water tank stop working, how to fix?

Thank u sir 4Life i was just about to give up on mines and its brand new 😅❤💪🏾💯🙏🏾⚠️🏆🇺🇸🏆🇺🇸🏆🥂

Great video! I'm sure I can do this...if I can get that black connector out! I've watched you do it many times with full screen and slowed down...and I just can't figure out how you do it. I'm afraid I'm going to break something! If you were to imagine a tool that would release that connector...what would it look like?

Nice work! Good to study something

Thanks you sir, I'm gonna fix it now.

Thanks for your videos! Do you have instagram also?

Thanks to your video I have fixed my Dyson

Thank you - very helpful

This is exactly whats happening with my anycubic Chiron, glad i found your video.

I was printing at 60mm/s infill speed on Anycubic Mega S with TMC2208 driver on all steppers, and I got this problem. I systematically did the bending wires while printing. Also checked all the terminals and controller boards solders... could not find anything and ran out of options. Then, I tuned printing infill speed down to 50mm/s and now it is fine. 60mm/s works fine on Ender 3, but on Anycubic Mega S in practice is goes like twice as fast and looks like really pushing it. Maybe some termal protection kicks in somewhere in the circuit when pushing it too much, and then indeed this random full stop somewhere in a print. Thanks for this great vid, as something to start with. And then useful comments, as a checklist to scan to isolate the problem. Hereby another option added to the list. Goodluck!

MERCI !!!!!!!!!!🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰

When removing the trigger switch, a black rubber band came out. Idk where it's supposed to go :/ halp please (very good tutorial nevertheless)

Спасибо за лучший ролик,из тех кого просмотрел ваш самый лучший.

same like dyson 12. i had to replace the knob because it was broken in half after 2 years and out if warranty. need to peel down the stupid silicone down from two spots on the logic board. because there are two connection you have to disconnect. one for the sensing 3 pin thin wires and the two wires for the battery. i was very painfull. the dyson 10 has no silicone on the logic board. why they made them so? for moneeey!!! i will never buy anymore a dyson crap!

How to take out the trigger switch (video 5:48)..it's hard to pull it..

Super.work, Genesis❤

I need you help pleaseeeee!

This was so helpful! Thanks for putting it together.

Repaired mine with glue but followed your steps. Nice soundtrack as well. Thanks a bunch. I owe u one bro

Not me following the tutorial till 0.19 and stopping cause my drill couldn’t reach there 😂 amazing video

Excellent video. I don’t have patience but am inspired by your video.

it feels so good to bring something back from the dead, thank you so much for this!! ❤

I didn’t have that problem on mine but it worked again!

Отличное видео. Всё понятно. Спасибо!

Worked for me as well - thank you - stopped working after a few months now good to go

.. stuck at 4:57 min - no suitable screwdriver available. Again, thx Dyson. Beside the fact I have to find someone 3D printing me switches....

Thank You soooo much!!! Muy Dyson v10 is working again and I saved a lot of money!!!

3:20 are those screws still T8? Cause I can’t seem to be able to remove them with that, and i saw you changing screwdriver… can you help? :)

Very useful! And you have such a sweet voice :)

I also have the same problem. The Dyson suddenly stops working, even when the battery is fully charged. When I take the battery out and put it back in, it works again.

Saved me a price of a new Dyson! Thank you

Hi! After disassembling few v12, for me the best way is to remove the power button and unplug the wires. So you don’t have to cut the wires.

Mine doesnt spin. After i push like 10 minutes all time the power it start to spin. Could it be the brush itself or the pcb?

you deserve a big like, thx

Thank you buddy, going to do this over coming weekend :-) heh removing connectors is part that scares me the most, will try big of oil as you suggested.fingers crossed 😅

Nice video! I see you also failed to split the actual cyclone unit thanks to the moulded in wires 😡 Makes stripping them for the full wash they need after 2 or 3 years impossible as you can't get to the hidden parts inside.

Thanks for this! Even though ours is a different model - I'd originally watched a heap of other videos from other channels about possible causes and fixes - but none worked. After watching all of those and trying every suggestion, I came to the conclusion that the motor had burned out or died somehow. But after stumbling upon your video, I decided to work out how to completely dismantle the head (I'd only gone half-way previously, as I couldn't work out how to get some of the sections apart... yet) and follow the red and black wires. Sure enough, I traced them down to a hidden section behind where the head and stick bend, where the red wire was in fact broken. So my next step will be to solder it back together and hopefully - thanks to your video - it will be working again!