Видео

Well, Bud, I did say that it was on sale at Knifecenter, but you would have had to slog through a full 1 minute and 8 seconds to get that information. Also mentioned that it was a Black Friday sale, and I believe it ended yesterday. On the other hand, it's still a good deal at $142.

It runs around $830 US and they're exclusively available from the maker on his Facebook page (by lotto).

I think all of the machines are essentially the same, but sold under different names. I didn't make any alterations to mine, other than adding the magnetic plate to the platen.

Hmm, I don't know about that. I think it's pretty soulful.

I used the original formula. It's always worked well for me. If you haven't used it, be aware that it expands as it dries, so you generally want to use it sparingly.

A burr is produced either way, but it's minimized with edge leading, which makes it easier to deburr. Edge trailing tends to produce a feather burr.

@BladeLabMiami , I imagine that makes sense. If you are not pushing light enough you can push material to the other side rather than removing it. I had to think about that for a bit. I tend to use my Wicked Edge for sharpening, while shaping I will sharpen with edge trailing to create the burr. But when getting past 800 or 1000 grit I will sharpen edge leading with ever lighter strokes. And with the nature of the Wicked Edge it’s almost always switching sides with each stroke. In this manner sharpening edge leading only on the finer grits, and always switching sides, with ever lighter pressure, I never detect a burr.

@@profesonalantagonist You're always pushing some material to the other side. It's just that, at a certain point, it's too small to feel or detect without serious microscopy. If you haven't seen it, you should check out scienceofsharp.com. The author has access to a scanning electron microscope and provides lots of amazing images at micron scale.

I disagree on the edge angle. Even on lower-end knives, a lower edge angle generally provides better edge retention, provided it's not so low that the edge rolls easily. I think most kitchen knives dull from wear, rather than rolling or chipping, although chipping obviously happens. The edge bevel is basically a triangle. The narrower the triangle is, the less blunt it becomes when you abrade material from the apex. Vadim, of Knife Grinders AU, had a regular business sharpening for a poultry processing plant. They used Victorinox knives. After much experimentation, they actually concluded that they were getting the longest service from knives sharpened at TWELVE degrees per side.

@ I have tried many of the things Vadim preached for years and can say he did things that many others couldn’t replicate including myself. He definitely knew a lot but I do not worship at the church of Dr Vadim and don’t really want to be disrespectful since he’s no longer with us but having spoken to many people in the Tormek Groups I found out the hard way after spending money on things that did not give me better results (For example Rock Hard Felt ) I have had inexpensive knives roll their edge at under 15 and having serviced many restaurants for years I would never give one an angle any where between 12-16. On a western knife that’s really low the blade would be dull in 1 week.In my experience western knives for restaurants if its prep cooks 18-19 degrees is great. When I gave them 17 they would come back in horrible condition and super dull so I upped the angle till I saw knives returning after a month that were still a little sharp. Now the head chef’s and others who often have nicer knives those I would do at lower angles depending on the knife. That’s just what I do and I’ve been doing this professionally since 2019 and we all kind of find our own way and what works for us in the crazy world of sharpening so if that works for you and your customers then that’s great but it’s outside of the norm from what I know and have taught others who get into the sharpening game.

@@ALXSHARPEN Yes, agree that some of Vadim's methods are difficult to replicate, but I definitely learned a lot from him and have improved my results with some of his advice. In particular, I think his deburring method is excellent, and I also think it accounts for getting good results with low angles and lesser steels, since he recommended deburring those steels at 2+° higher than the sharpening angle, which in effect creates a steeper micro-bevel. So, when I'm sharpening Victorinox knives, I'm doing them at 15 dps, but then the first deburring step is on a leather belt with 1 micron diamond at a little under 17°. That's creating a bit of convexity and changing the abolute edge angle to closer to 17, even if edge bevel itself is 15°.

Unfortunately I lost half of the video I already shot ... the part where I actually figured out how to put it back together. 😂 I'll try to redo it soon.

I guess it depends on how you intend to use it, and how comfortable you are with stropping and sharpening. If it's a work knife where it's going to get heavy use, I'd personally go with the s35vn. On the other hand, if it's just EDC carry, with the occasional package opening and whatnot, you'd be fine with the Damascus.

Ended up going with the Damascus version, went ahead and put a hair whittling edge on it. Definitely more of an edc showing off knife, especially because it's my first Damascus blade.

Totally agree. As it stands, it just feels flimsy and unbalanced.

It's sold on Amazon and Ebay under a bunch of different names. I would just search Amazon for 1x30 sander or grinder and you'll see them come up.

@ thank you for your reply.

Yes, you have to have a *really* sharp mirror edge to cut paper towel well. Possible, but not easy. I'm also generally stopping at 600 grit these days, which leaves enough tooth for a lot of stropping before it gets too slick.

I think their idea was that people would mount them under a work table. Not possible with my current setup, though.

Correct! Someone already pointed that out to me and I added that correction to the description below the video.

I'm really thinking that (epoxy) bonded diamond stones may be the way to go with ceramic blades. Will update as soon as I have a chance to try them out.

@@BladeLabMiami I agree, I have the diamonds and epoxy resin and I'm gonna try making my own before I have to resort to selling a kidney to buy a set.

I think you're going to love it.

Waiting for mine in the mail. Can't wait.

Those are pretty much my thoughts exactly. I'd like it to be a little bigger, and I'd prefer a frame lock, but it's kind of uniquely beautiful. If a Swiss watch was a knife, it would be this one.

I actually have some Tormek content, but I'd be happy to do more. What would be most useful for you?

@@BladeLabMiami I'd like to know more about the differences I'm likely to notice (at the edge level) coming from freehand. I've watched tons of tormek content, but haven't really seen that talked about. I know in a properly thin edge the difference probably isn't gonna be noticeable, but in the 20 to 30 thou BTE range that 95% of production knives fall into, im expecting to see a difference.

@@CNYKnifeNut I could do that, but basically it comes down to the Tormek edge bevel being very slightly hollow, versus a freehand bevel which will be slightly convex.

I've actually gotten some budget knives that were ground quite thin. Of course they're wearing budget steels that aren't run particularly hard, so you can't take full advantage.

You definitely need to use something hard, since ceramic is so hard. I was using a CBN wheel. CBN is short for Cubic Boron Nitride, which is the second hardest material on earth -- just behind diamond. For knife sharpening, including ceramics, there's no real difference between diamond and CBN. The only time CBN vs diamond really matters is in high-speed grinding applications, where CBN is the far better choice due to its superior inertness at high temperatures.

@@BladeLabMiami i was def thinking that maybe the cbn was not quite hard enough or something like that but hearing this im wondering if heat is the key? i would love to see inside one of the factorys and see what they use and how they put that factory edge on there

@@uPimppi I'd be really interested in to see how the factories sharpen these things, too.

No, that's not really how it works. If you think of it like an airplane, the angle guide is locking in the pitch of the blade. Changing the roll angle, which is necessary to bring the belly into contact with the stone, does not affect the pitch, and thus it doesn't affect the edge angle. The same is true of the yaw angle. If you move the blade perpendicular to the stone the edge angle is the same as it would be if you moved the blade diagonally. I have confirmed this with a laser goniometer.

I wear a L glove size -- probably have average-sized hands for a guy. If you're an XL I think this one might be too tight for you, because it's a very locked-in grip and it fits my hand very well.

@@BladeLabMiami thank you.

I ordered a spare wheel for a Grizzly 1x30, plus an appropriate bearing, but I'd recommend buying one from Curry Custom Cutlery if you want one.