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Thank you for the video references, In your rip chain video it sounds like you will end up with a chain that looks Similar to the Granberg rip chain.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm Yes indeed. I use to make my own chains. Cheaper. Also. I had to put shims where the mill connects to the bar by the motor. Then the tip of the bar would be at the same distance from the mill frame as the base of the bar. Got a more square cut that way. Solid bars seemed to work better than the spot welded ones did. Flip the bar around after each log so it doesn't try and cut down. Also square up the place where the chain rides and the bar with a file.

Thanks for the info I'm replacing the carb cilinder, and pistion, I'll try the break in procedure you sugested to get down 40:1 and see how it works out. When you say light cuts, do you mean cutting rounds?

​@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm not necessarily just cutting rounds but it needs to be worked for it to bed in properly. I am working mine with a 24" bar for clearing blown down trees. I also do quite a bit of noodling as the stringy chips come in handy for all kinds of things so I make bag loads of them. It'll take me another three or four days to get it to the point where I'll be ready to mill but I will start on the smaller trees and rest the saw a little every foot or three depending on the type of wood. One or two days of that and it should be a saw with a useful lifespan. With care and not too much abuse I hope to get many good years of regular use out of it. Just as an aside I nearly bought the Stihl g660 clone but I actually like the husky clone better. Maybe if there are bigger trees coming down in the storms expected this year I'll think about it again. Clone 372 spares are cheap at the mo so I'm putting a box together for future proofing.

@biomechanique6874 Thanks for the info. This saw was used by a friend of mine first who has a lot more experience with saws than I, it ran fine for him. I fairly fond of the husky clone myself, I've not decided how I want to rebuild both this clone, and the OEM 372Xp power head I was given. (it was in a fire and most of the plastics are gone). the 394 clone looks interesting. I've not found a 120CC husky clone yet.

There are only a few clone saw sizes to choose from but it's enough for getting stuff done on a budget. What I have chosen is all I really need for now, that's 8 saws from 37cc to 71cc. Three of those are in the 50cc class which is what I use most plus 3 bigger machines, the 372 being the latest addition. All can be repaired easily so that's enough now. I have a colleague with some big vintage saws that come out to play when big beasts are needed.👍👍

@biomechanique6874. The 50 cc saws seem to be the sweet spot for power and weight. I really like the John cutter that’s in some of the shots I’m this video it is a solid runner always starts up. The only gatcha is that it’s how I found out that there are different husky bar mount designs I originally had a Bar meant for the 372 on it took me a minute before I figured out why the chain was not getting oil. It takes the same bar as the husky 340 and 355 I have.

Good Catch!.. Thank you for pointing that out.. I'll fix that.

For me they last 2-3 months.

In order for the non WIFI Govee sensors to provide you with Live data when you are not within bluetooth range of of the sensor: 1. have sensor on and configured in govee app. 2 have govee wifi gateway with active internet connection within range of sensor. 3. have the sensor assigned to gateway in govee app I hope that helps

Thats a crappy place to be. I hope you found something helpful.

@WhisperingWildMarketFarm my dad fixed it.. But thank you and sorry for the hate I was just scared and panicking 😭😅🥲

@@X...Enmu..Kibutsuji...X Thats great! Sounds like your in a better place. Glad your Dad was able to fix it.

I just tested this with the dual plug model. I set a timer then turned my phone off. the timer still functioned.

Your welcome! glad its charging now!

It was running on heating oil that gets delivered to the house same diesel that I run in my tractors. The replacements still running fine. The new unit does shut off when it idles down. This unit would idle down low and never shut off. It all started when it ran out of fuel over night when it was below zero F and would not start up. Never ran right after that. I’m thinking maybe the atomizer screen is fouled…?

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm i have the same issue... running heating oil. I think the burn chamber needs replacing, mine seemed to happen all at once and no matter how many times i clean it it goes back to the same. There is a replaceable gauze screen that sits around the glowplug, but there is another gauze (non replaceable ) inside the burn chamber. my theory is that this gives up after some time, but you cant replace it or clean it well. i have ordered a new burn chamber for £16 and i will test my theory!

@@barneskite28 Interesting I though I saw a 2nd screen, I've kept this unit around thinking someday I'd figure out whats up with it. Let me know how your new burn chamber works out!

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm You cant see the screen, it is behind the washer/baffle right at the back where the glow plug is. I have been trying to clean mine out for the past few days - every time it starts of ok, and then gets worse . I had a spare heater that went through the same problem, so i cut open the burn chamber to see. The wool+mesh around the inner diameter was hard baked carbon crust - so stopping the normal operation and giving an unstable flame. My latest solution was oven cleaning gel.... filled the back with it and let it sit for an hour or so, washed off with a hosepipe and then dried with a blowtorch. Working nicely for an hour so far - lets see!

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm When i looked at the inner mesh, it was not bad condition other than being blocked. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, I think put the chamber in a bag of oven cleaning solution and sqeeze all the extra air out of the bag, then put the bag in an ultrasonic cleaner for a bit. The problem is there is no access to clean this mesh without cutting it open. Maybe some room for a re-designed burner better for cleaning and service. For most people at the moment it would mean throwing it away and buy a new one. i have some ideas i might try.

Govee automation supports adding multiple then clauses. So you can set an automation. If button one is pressed then turn on switch one, and turn on switch two, switch 3 etc…. So yes you can trigger multiple devices with one button. I don’t have Govee lights to test this with so I can’t comment on the lights.

That’s a good question. For the real time temp and humidity numbers to show up in the app the can work ok up around 250 ish feet line of sight. But the historical data doesn’t get to the cloud app reliably at that range and I end up waking out to them every so often to download the data. If you want good history I’d say 50 -75 feet from the gateway

@@kerbsidemotors9249 we just had to replace the fuel filter on the replacement unit this week it would not stay running I believe it was throwing an e1 error.

@@kyler1954 Lisle Coil-On Plug Spark Tester

None of these, to my knowledge, are officially rated for outdoor use. I have had some success using the h5100 outdoors, by drilling a small hole in the bottom for water to drain out and painting the board (except for the sensor and battery connectors) with nail polish. I have one outside hanging off my hoop house right now thats been outside for over a year. Without the modifications water tends to build up and corrode the circuit boards. InkBird makes sensors that are more robust but their software ecosystem seems fractured and less evolved.

@@MycSailor that’s odd When I go into the distributes gateway it show the h5075. I figured once setup they talked to each other directly. I’ve not tried to use them without the Wi-Fi on. You may be able to get away with just having a Wi-Fi access point with no internet setup if you do end up needing Wi-Fi. It’s not something I’ve tested.

Ive not opened the bottom end of this up.

There is nothing technically stopping You from doing that. look up the amperage/wattage limit for the smart plug you are using and keep your total load below that. If it’s only in amps you can convert using the formula volts x amps = watts. Typical household voltage is about 120 volts. In general id recommend keeping the total load under 750w for smart plugs though they often say they can handle 1000 to 1500 watts. You can also just use multiple smart plugs

If the lights are hard wired you would need a smart home compatible light switch installed. Before you could trigger them with this sort of sensor. I do not believe Govee makes hard wired switches. I use casa switches if you used a casa switch that is matter compatible you may be able to then use this sensor to trigger a matter compatible smart home via Govee automation. It’s not something I’ve tested. This would also require a matter compatible smart home to be setup

Intresting problem the app does not seem to be setup well for this sort of time line. You potentially could segment the portions of the day into different automations. Else you may want to consider moving to a home automation platform like home assistant or matter

It it’s a dumb humidifier that turns on and off when it’s plugged in / unplugged then it should be possible. If it has an on button that has to be pressed each time it’s plugged in then it should there would be some custom mods that would need to be made to the humidifier.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm i just dont know how to set humidity level as a trigger from my govee wifi hygrometer

@@robertlevasseur8896 From the home screen select automation at the top then click the + sign select your sensor and under the IF clause you can select the humidity of your sensor. I've several video's on it for different sensors if you want to see the walk though.

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm for some reason the sensor doesnt show up even though its connected and appears in the devices. It's an H5051

@@robertlevasseur8896 not all Govee sensors work with automation. It’s unfortunate that this information is not more available. I don’t have that particular model to test but Govee support is usually somewhat responsive if you contact them from inside the Govee app. I asked them a while back which ones support automation and did some videos on those ones.

lol yup. Hardened Cutters are also nice. Some pliers have replaceable hardened / harder alloys too. Those seem pretty cool but I’ve not played with them.

I have the Doyle. I bought mine for similar projects but I was a little disappointed that the jaws didn't open big enough for my task but the next size bigger was perfect. Everything I have managed to fit in the hard managed to be cut. The small one is a great alternative if I don't want to risk my diagonal cutters.

@@larryblackmon2341 hum I’d not seen the Parker ones I’ll have to check them out I’ve found a few things where I wish the jaws open a bit more.

@dalewedell Tap to run is set up on the main home screen by clicking the little two oval hamburger icon in the upper right corner, these tap to run automations allow you to create buttons that do group actions, these can also be linked to your home automation / voice command, Siri etc... using the import option allows you to automate these. you can setup normal if / then automations by clicking the + to the right of the import commands.

Hum are you talking about the sensor tolerances or is this something you have observed. I don’t have a NIST traceable humidity sensor as the inexpensive ones I’ve found seem to have 8% margin of error. Which doesn’t seem that useful for testing…

If you think the CPS is getting distroyed so quickly, it could be a bad voltage regulator, though I believe those are in the CPM housing so that would require the CPM to be replaced. Try checking the voltage with a volt meter I belive those are on the 5v buss but I'm not 100% on that. Else I would look for wire shorts and grounding issues. I've seen bad grounds cause voltage to flow in really odd ways though a vehicle.

Glad it was useful

Great to hear it was successful

@@stevenmorgan8085 the h5151 it comes in a 3pack of sensors.

Your welcome glad it worked out out for you

My guess is that it’s a combination of where the sensors are located (inside the case) the materials the sensors are attached to and surrounded by and the limited air flow through the case. Until the materials around the sensors acclimate to the ambient air temperature they will be influencing the readings.

The dealer also could not successfully keep a connection to the old computer in the Jeep in this video. Since the other devices are working it seems like it could be the connection at the computer. Those are known to develop corrosion and what I ultimately think the issue was with the old computer I had. There are a few RUclipsrs that have videos on diagnosing and fixing those connections. The bigger issue is getting the potting compound off so you can reflow the solder joints . If you’re not getting voltage at the sensors it could also be the voltage regulator ( also in the pcm if I remember correctly correctly) I’d still recommend checking though everything especially the grounds. Bad grounds cause really odd symptoms

Well, mark here, one ask forum said check the crank position sensor. It took a while to get the small cover on the trans tunnel by the foot duct.. then try to unplug the cps lead and it was dam near impossible but the connection was restored and the problem was solved. Key light gone. Engine started and stayd running.

@@Mark-xo9sn that’s great news!! Glad it’s working now and thank you for adding your knowledge to the posts.

@@igliumagallanes7238 thats frustrating that it’s still not starting. As long as your skim was was never plugged into the new computer then I would think that you would be fine as far as the computer goes. Perhaps give a computer resource a call and confirm the skim delete. Check the basics fuel spark air ground straps.

@@randyabbonizio6216 Thanks! Yes I used a 10mm on the battery terminals

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm Thx sir!

@@justinpeterson9734 thanks for the feedback I’ll be getting into ash trees in the not to distant future. I’d like to find a Husky 395 or maybe a clone but if I get another clone say the g888 looks interesting. Not sure that will be this year though.

Ya I still need to rebuild that one and get it on the saw. Do you have a link to the one that’s working for you?

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm You tube won't let you post outside links. I went and checked what I bought on Amazon though and it was a Motoall for a 372xp.

@@kraftzion Thank you!

I appreciate the comment I may just do that. from what I can find online this is from the saw getting too hot and running to lean or air leaks. Thankfully pats for these saws are abundant and inexpensive.

Parts are abundant. Buy from reputable after market sources. The cheapest parts are junk ie ebay, amazon from no name suppliers but there is a lot suppliers in the middle of the after market that are good. Get a IPL for the saw so you can find part # numbers. Helps you find the right parts. Group your parts to save on shipping as it really adds up on these projects.

@@FiddleMaker63 ive been watching a lot of @tinmanssaws seems like highway and meteor are decent. I’m think of putting the blue saw back together with the husky top end and perhaps ordering one of the 52mm top ends for the spare. Looks like I will need to buy case splitting tool though. I’m still iffy on the carbs though. May have to do some more learning on those.

@@PoeLemic thanks! Glad the were helpful.

It was around 300$ if I recall correctly

@@WhisperingWildMarketFarm I just figured out my problem .. it's my crankshaft sensor is shorted out and causing a short in my 5 volt circuit, so I haft to replace that . But thanks for the video and info

@@chuckrogers2581 Glad to hear you found a straight forward solution.