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Back when I was a kid, I used a borrowed rifle. Then, when I started making my own money, I saved up for a rifle/scope that could be built out as I could afford it. I chose a common cartridge that was cheap to shoot. .270 win. Saved up for a great scope. Saved up for a sweet stock. Met some dudes at the range who taught me reloading. Bought dies and components. Dialed my set-up in to .78 inch with 5 shots at 100 yards. Took hundreds of critters and punched a ton of paper with great fun. You guys talking about beginners getting rifles chambered for cartridges that cost $60+ a box is a horrible thing to teach a rookie. Good ballistics can be had for a whole lot less. I take a newbie to the ammo isle first. Research drop-in stocks, scopes before looking at some semi custom $2K rifle that he's just going to loss at the pawnshop when he gets laid off. I've only known one newbie that dropped $3k at the gun shop for his first set-up, but he was in his mid thirties. Most of us are under twenty one and have to carpool to go hunting.

308 is perfect for moose ,elk, and bears of all sizes.

I will stick with Lead thank you good examples Swift A-Frame or Nosler Partition.

This video remains a benchmark over the years !

How did you prevent fuel from freezing up, tanking pressure? I think canister testing should be done in 2 ways. First, the canisters are going to be pretty close in construction, so weigh each and see which ones differ from what boils down to gas weight + can weight. Is one consistently low/high? Regarding temperature testing, chill canisters down to around 40 degrees F and do boiling tests. Can you get a good high flame? Low flame? Then lower canister to freezing 32 degrees F and repeat test. Finally chill canisters to 10 degrees F and repeat boil tests. Do the boiling times vary much with the same stove? Do the canisters work when chilled to 10F? In my opinion, You'd need a different cylinder for each temperature, to prevent issues from pressure loss of the canister being used. That means you'd need 3 canisters of each fuel.

Burn time per gram of full tank would have been a good metric

Your old man's 'stache and your young voice totally mess up my ability to process the information. But still - thanks for the comparison!

Outstanding video! Like the editing and the PowerPoint data. Exactly what I was searching for. Subscribed :) 👍🏻

Lead have been around for years and I have never seen anyone die from lead and I know someone who had a lead bullet in him and never killed him from it yet and it’s over 40 years ago!! So the government has no clue what will kill you!! It’s just what they do

I say solid copper. By my own experience copper jackets do 3 things 1) FAIL 2) Peel 3) Shed all just lead to gun failure

So if you're extremely cheap and looking for long burn times, get the Coleman.

Or you can refill your canisters from your 5 gal/20 lb propane tank at $3+ per gallon... 😁 Slightly more energy than 'isobutane'...

30-06. Got my first one when I was 15. And although I have bought a couple of more powerful cartridges since I will never go without a 30-06 in my gun cabinet. It’s just too versatile.

cool

I like the 30-06 Springfield and the 300 Win mag

Can't go wrong with the 270

What this guy talks about is fine and dandy. When it comes down to it choosing the right caliber is personal preference. No matter what gun/caliber you choose make sure you harvest the animal ethically. Also practice, practice, practice shooting your gun. Don't go out and buy the calibers for whatever gun because someone puts a video online. Ask many people at ranges, gun stores, hunting stores what calibers they recommend. Also, buy a great reputable, reliable and accurate gun. Not the caliber but the gun must be accurate. Spend your hard earned money on a great gun. I can use a trap door rifle 45/70 if I practiced at 300 yards.

If you Hollow out the base of the bullets a little it will keep them nose heavy, that should keep them from tumbling when interning the target, the resistance makes the rear heavy end of the bullet flip over and lead the way through the target,

If you can’t afford a box of 60 $ you shouldn’t be hunting

I just picked up a 6.8 western

I just picked up a 6.8 western

Out of interest in your tests to determine temperature and total time to exhaustion how did you standardise the burner setting? I’d have thought even a small variation in setting would have a big influence on the overall burn time?

I went hunting in the Czech Republic in the 90s with a Ruger No. 1 with Mannlicher stock and 20" barrel and caliber 7x57mm. I shot a roe buck there at 180 m. 7x57 is a good hunting cartridge. I also had a pre-war Mauser in 7x57 (1937) and an FN Mauser in 9.3x62 caliber. I am a German from Franconia and now live in Thailand.

You are right on. On small cal. copper is a must as you have to have an exit hole in the South. Berns, brush honeysuckle etc. Need a blood trail. Shot deer with 243 lead and no exit hole sometimes. Copper always. griz

I just watched another burn time test using 100g canaster, this was done out in the open with out actually boiling water, the canaster lasted 30 minutes, i would think environments has a major effect on these burn times.

What about a stainless steel bullet head????

At 60 -70 ° F they may seem similiar ,at 0° F there is a hugh difference .

I just bought some Coleman….$5.99 + tax for 220g or $10.99 for the large 440g canisters at Walmart. Calling them “performance” is misleading at best and your tests prove it…pathetic! It’s 70% Butane and 30% propane but it works for non extreme cold and every Walmart in the USA has it. The only thing i like is that’s it’s made in France. If it was 70% isobutane they could proudly call it Performance. The GSI would be my choice based on specs for cold and/or high altitude use…..70% isobutane 20% propane and 5% butane. I live a at 5000 feet where pure butane performance is already starting to suffer. With all due respect the margins of aren’t “thin” when it comes to serous cold and or high altitude with canisters…the margins become huge!

My old .270 Weatherby has a slow twist rate and cannot stabilize long copper bullets. A jacketed round nose is extremely accurate but with monolithic copper I get key-holes and a huge pattern.

300 win mag for beginners if you don’t want them to hunt again

(noting that a new hunter is not necessarily a new shooter) maybe i'd recommend a 300 win mag or 300 wsm to a new hunter depending on shooting experience, but I certainly not a new shooter.

I'd love to see the same done with butane.

I carry a 16 foot trailer behind me and have 3 thousand knives myself, but heck you can’t have enough knives.

to be real, if one put nice artworks on it id just buy that one

Looks like oil camp

I use a 300wsm it's ausom

Damn, I used to carry lead pellets in my mouth while shooting my pellet rifle for years. Did the same thing with split shot while fishing. Don’t know how many I have swallowed over the years.

Nice explanation! Thank you!

As if you have a list of "beginner" cartridges and leave out the 7mm08 or .243, or even the 3030...but yet you include a not one but two 300 win mag chamberings ? What kind of wacky list is this ??

I own a Winchester Model 70 Super Grade in .270 Winchester and the only ammo I use these days is the Hornady Superformance SST 130 grain. With a 24" barrel, that ammo produces 3200 fps and is one of the flattest-trajectory calibers you can get, that even outperforms the 6.5 Creedmore in bullet-drop. The two reasons why famed Outdoor Life writer Jack O'Connor liked the .270 Winchester so much was he understood you don't need to create a bigger wound and cause more damage, you just need more accuracy and Jack considered the 130g .270 Winchester to be the realistic threshold of how small a bullet can be yet still be effective enough to hunt anything, anywhere AND reason Number 2, the SIGNIFICANTLY reduced recoil compared to the shoulder-slamming, larger calibers. 👍

I’ve been using Coleman for all those reasons. However I’m having trouble in the cold. Near freezing it has trouble, I’m assuming I burn all the propane off. Curious how these perform at near or below freezing conditions?

Use both like both. Biggest downside to copper is it’s very speed dependent. Too slow at impact and it won’t expand much. But great for busting bones. I never worry about shot angle with copper. Lead bullets give me more range since they can expand at lower speeds. Good video 👍🏻

I saw your movie from Iran ❤ and thank you for your good information ❤

Don't agree with some of your recommendations. 1. .300 Winch is NOT for new shooters. 2. If a 30/06 will kill moose, then so will a .308. 3. You completely skipped the best new hunter caliber. The 7/08 Remington

Thank you very much and best regards from Germany

Be sure to buy the Garmin insurance. It protects you from the cost of your rescue. Homemade Wonderlust was sure glad when she found out she had signed up for it 5 years earlier. As she used the SOS and the insurance covered most of her cost of rescue.

Moral of the story, buy the cheapest one you can get your hands on.

I wouldn’t recommend a 300 win mag for a new hunter cause they are expensive and can develop bad habits with flinching as it’s a hard hitting rd

The .308 Winchester due to manageable recoil, very good barrel life, and the huge variety of readily available factory loads from 110 grains to 220 grains. A 400 yard elk rifle with the right load, such as Hornady's 308 Win 165 gr SST Superformance (2,077 fps / 1,574 ft lbs).

The video, as it states, is for beginners. Simply the best cartridge is the one that YOU can shoot best with. As long as it meets the standards for velocity and bullet diameter established by local regulations. Do you own research based on availability of ammunition, rifle style, and the shooting distances involved.