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Hello, great video! Does the brake lever need to be disconnected from the line to replace the blade?

thank you for the video! getting the spring in wasn't that hard - i also had the lever off the bike, maybe that makes it much easier.

This is a correct cable routing www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/1x-mtb-mechanical-derailleurs-user-manual.pdf

No it was correct in the first iteration, this method not working for XO1 and GX deraulers.. your video is misleading

Um, I get that a bike shop would remove the crank that way but nfw is that safe for frame or shock.

Was looking for some sort of trick to lock the double nut. I will try your needle nose plier method. A trick I found for placing the bearings is to put the spindle/shaft in first, then you can slopily drop the balls into the greased tracks. Make sure they're secure then carefully remove the spindle to reinstall in the proper direction. As I type this, I suppose you can use some sort of rod if you happen to have one that's the same size. Came up with this method after dropping the balls inside the hub when rebuilding the cones. Was a nightmare to get out the greasy trapped balls. Never again, I swore to myself. haha.

shit tuto... nothing work!

Great video, but i have a query on the bearings. Mine are fitted with 687 bearings, which are different dimensions to the ones you say. Also, any tips on getting the outer race out after the bearing has disintegrated?

No where do you say where the spring has to align. Is the circular part of the spring supposed to line up with the pivot?

Hi, huge thanks from the government-oppressed Russia for the video! Have any ideas how to extract a brake lever? Really wanna spice up my old bike design and paint the shifter (right and the only one) red cus you know, if only left brake lever will be red and the other black that'll be bit too atrocious for an unprepared witness :D

Thank you for the guidance. I'm glad that you didn't use the bearing press.

Good video but there was a tiny little washer that was on the table one minute then it was gone…

Thanks, a really helpful review. And yes, "antimicrobial" is a tough word to pronounce. lol.

Very helpful ,thank you very much.

Just buy dynabolt

Super man

Am am am am am…

This was a great video. I found for me it was easiest to push the pin fully in without the spring. It was easier to shift the lever blade up to make room for the spring when there was no tension on the lever. Then I used a hex bit to carefully push the pin back out until the gap was clear for the spring. Again this was easier when there wasn't tension on the lever. I compressed the lever, inserted the spring and used a pick from the bottom to align the spring and clear the hole and gently tapped the pin fully home.

Very helpfull thanks

Thank you so much!!!

Poor pedal. Poor conception . Hard to service compared to others . Expensive and not grippy. Stay away from this brand .

This is exactly the construction of Wellgo M-21 pedals I have. Thanks for posting! Mine were not tightening up at the jam nut, so I had to completely degrease the threads, then wrap tape around threads on spindle. Insert spindle and then remove tape. Next, apply Lock-Tite to threads. What also worked was a flat toothpick to apply grease to races, and then this also worked as a tool to set each BB in place.

I think better swap a lever blade, than to buy a whole new lever assy. Doesn't matter if you had a serious, high speed crash, or the bike just fell over on a trail from a stopped position. If the lever get a specific amount of force from bottom/top of the lever blade, it will bend. Also from the shape of it, it's obvious that's meant to happen like this. Cheers!

Great video! I have a vintage bike and the hub is completely stuck. I am waiting for my tools to arrive then hopefully I can do the same thing.

Noooooooo

Never knew this way to tighten it up. Always had problems getting it right. Will try it. Thanks

Alright dude, I haven't needed this yet but I'm giving you a preliminary thanks. Amazingly your videos cover a lot of my bike's parts which are seemingly quaint otherwise. So, thanks for the continued great vids dude Ride safe!

Good video,I’ve decided to rebuild my old mk5’s,seems to be my inner(bigger)bushing that develops play on mine

Thanks super useful tips 👍🏻

Hi, what if I have EF-50 and the least tense gear is the highest one in the changing part, is it ok?

What BB tool model # do I need to remove the Cinch ring? Thanks

Bearings are so cheap it’s best to replace them during a service unless it’s a fresh hub that’s a warranty rebuild or something. Might as well know you’re getting fresh round bearing that aren’t pitted and haven’t been heated and cooled many times. Just a thought. Good job on the video though. Very nice and clean work.

This is the same hub I have, but mine is Syncros branded. Super helpful. How long did the grease last on the ball bearings once you replaced everything? I am considering buying the 14mm Hex to do the same service. Mine currently sounds like a washing machine in the bike stand, but no play in the freehub body yet.

appreciate the knowledge transfer but honestly folks that effing spring is nearly impossible to line up with the thru bolt and holes. I wasted a good hour attempting this fix. The thru bolt finally went in, not worth the time and frustration. take it in to your lbs or better yet, shop for new brake lever

what size are the bearings?

Thanks for the vid! A little bit of lighting from the camera angle even a bike flashlight would help a great deal in seeing the screws, spring and whatnot, but still helpful thanks!

I think you just showed us “how NOT to do it”.

Ele é 20mm ?

hammering on that marble or granite can end badly.

Great video. Very easy to follow. These levers are rubbish - I’ve snapped 2 in the past year. First time I replaced the whole lever unit but have ordered just a lever this time and will follow these instructions. Thanks!

You should get a torque wrench and take the guesswork out of it.

Hi, did you know that to make it easier access for the tightening nuts, the 2 that tighten up against each other should by on the brake side!!!

Beautiful product,I hope those who take it will be uplifted.👍👍

What’s the difference between those 2 bearing kits you have in the description? Great video btw!

Why do they call it a hi lo hub ?

Can you please help me? I dont know the size of my bearings... Trek Powerfly 5FS 2018, all original and the rear hub shakes like nothing else and it crunches... can you send me a link to the bearings? I think its the same wheel.. please help.

Hello. How do you remove the thru axle from the body? I need to change the body bearings. Thank you.

Thanks for showing how to do it without the expensive tool kit.

Great video, very helpful. Thanks!

Bravo You :)