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You're very welcome! I'm always happy if my videos are useful to somebody.

The largest "whales" in the area are about 20kg and harpooning is not allowed 😅

Next week the temperatures should be down to a manageable 25°C. So I'm optimistic. The last few days it was 30°C or more, which amongst other things led to a thermal shutdown of my studio lighting (and my brain) - my lair is under the roof.

Пожалуйста! Что с тобой не так? И как ты это исправил?

@@robertssmorgasbord в моем случае при сборке повредили компоненты на плате. Я починил. Мой прибор немного отличается от вашего.

@@Aaa-mx4ft Благодарю вас за информацию!

Well, that explains why it doesn't behave in all respects like an original FTDI chip (like shown in the video) 🙂

As usb- c displayport alt mode doesn't support dual mode, usb-c to dvi adapters actually have protocol conversion built in.

Thanks for the info! I'm to hung up on the electrical side of those things (level shifting etc.) to deep dive into the higher protocol layers 😅 So, thanks again for providing that info!

@@varno Again, thanks for the info! USB C isn't even on my radar as a display interface 😅 But of course it's one of its functions.

Thank you very much!

RS422 is a physical specification for transmitting/receiving asynchronous serial data (differential signaling, signal levels etc.). RS422 doesn't care about the logical format of the serial data transmitted (e.g. 7 data bits, no parity bits two stop bits - or - 8 data bits, parity bit, one stop bit). You could transfer the same serial data via RS232, RS422, etc.. Hope that clarifies things.

​@@robertssmorgasbord Sorry just another question, if I have a signal A that can be 0v or 5v, with RS422 I will have for A=5V -> A+=5V and A-=0V and for A=0V -> A+=0V and A-=5V or if A=5V -> A+=2.5V and A-=-2.5V and for A=0V -> A+=0.epsilon V and A-=-0.epsilon. Or they could be both good solution? Thank you.

@@LucaniaRobotics As far as I can tell your first example (0V/5V) is well within the RS422 specification. However, +/- 0.epsilon V wouldn't work (e.g. +/- 0.9V), because the minimum differential voltage (Vod) under load is +/-2V. +/-1V is in that case the minimum on the signal lines under load.

To be honest, I have no idea what's going wrong. BTW it's not my code 😅 if you want to have a look at my code have a look at "The Details" videos about that chip (first one here ruclips.net/video/NTDS2Vmnr-4/видео.htmlsi=hib-w7Kg9msAigIU ).

You're probably experience a problem related to the shorting issue I discussed in the video ( ruclips.net/video/qub3yzqEwek/видео.html ). I guess in your case the power supply of your microcontroller and MAX6675 has some (albeit small) potential to the housing / the stainless steel of your machine. This causes a current loop through the sensor into the MAX6675 which messes up the measurements. There are three possible solutions for that problem: 1) Make sure your MCU and MAX6675 are galvanically isolated from the housing of the machine. 2) Use an isolated thermocouple. 3) Galvanically isolate the MAX667 (see ruclips.net/video/6rEJh4yPekg/видео.htmlsi=7D7Fo1dMdy6NBIwd ).

Thanks for the praise! And you're very welcome!

Thanks!

Well what I did to the drive certainly destroyed it. What exactly is wrong with your drive? It doesn't spin up anymore? The computer doesn't recognize it anymore?

I just uploaded a little teardown, because I need(ed) some time to think how to tackle that chip. But I think I've go a basic idea now.

Yeah! We're back to interesting chips and coding 🙂

Again, no such thing as a silly question 😉 In that video I connected the oscilloscope probes just across the load (see red arrows here: ruclips.net/video/rLpFtSayZ3Q/видео.htmlsi=H_jZpEFONajM_lWA&t=1988 ). It doesn't matter which way around, since we're measuring AC. WARNING: You're oscilloscope ground is usually connected to the AC mains ground. So without galvanically isolation your circuit (I'm using a transformer here), you might create a short and create a big bang!

There's no thing like a stupid question 😉 All probes were referenced (ground connect to) MT1.

Thank you very much 🙂

Well, that RUclipsr you mentioned might be on to something. 647 contains butyl acetate, ethyl cellulose, acetone, butyl alcohol and toluene. It seems to be a secret what's in the density spray. 400ml of the density spray are about 10€, 5l of 647 are about 15€, so there's that. However, 647 seems not to be available in Germany (too toxic?).

You're welcome! There is the theory that western digital makes direct USB hard drives, so they can sell the SATA version at a higher price. But then, maybe they really just want to build their external drives as small as possible. Who knows.

@@robertssmorgasbord stands to reason either way. there's probably an intermediary circuit that converts to sata out there (or will be) not sure what it would be called as searching hasn't turned up anything.

@@amiga12001 I've searched high and low for an adapter/bridge that would connect a USB disk to a SATA port on a mainboard, but I was never able to find one 🙁

I can assure you we are two different persons 😅 But we're both Germans, so it must be the accent 🤣

@@robertssmorgasbord Its the intonations too. I mean yes, i saw that you dont look like him, but you sound so similar its funny. Maybe that really is just how Germans tend to speak, i dont know

@@karyjas1 Well, not all Germans have that intonation. It depends on the area. That guy currently resides in Essen and has probably been raised in that area. I was born in Düsseldorf, just 30km from Essen.

OK, when to use a thermocouple or a thermistor basically comes down to the temperature range you want to measure. Since you're talking about 2.5m under water, I guess you're measuring "normal" water temperatures between 0°C and a few dozen °C. Thermocouples a great for measuring very high temperatures (hundreds °C), but that's not really necessary in your application. So I would go with a thermistor. Anyway, if it fits your application you should consider using a digital sensor like the DS18B20/DS18S20 ( ruclips.net/video/XUm9RPWRBx8/видео.htmlsi=rNz_LZVcwO_D3_HV ). Here I'm using one to measure the temperature of a water bath: ruclips.net/video/EP1Lc-g3uY0/видео.htmlsi=2YE7tQAADdcGYFHu .

Thanks! The spring is contained in the cylindrical housing beside the large black knob (left in the screen here: ruclips.net/video/dGyBfAovh6o/видео.htmlsi=slgBMNotiL8JY2wg&t=1325 ). It's just a long flat piece of spring steel rolled up in that housing. To be honest, I didn't dare to open it up, because the spring is rolled up in there with some force. I guess you could increase the spring force by rolling it up some more, respectively, reduce the spring force by unrolling it.

⁠thank for your answer best regards iller

@@illergiuliotti1896 You're welcome!

I used copper because I had a roll of thin copper sheet at hand. In this application the material, as long as it is a reasonably good conductor, really doesn't matter. You could use a carbon/graphite film if you wanted.

Thanks for the praise! I'm happy if my videos are actually helpful to somebody.

Already answered to your highlighted comment 😉

The diode in line with the pull up resistor is just there so you can detect the parasitic power delivery by the master to the slaves. It doesn't help you detecting if the master or a slave is transmitting. It's the 100 Ohm resistors in line with the slaves' bus pins that help to differentiate between the master or the slaves transmitting ( ruclips.net/video/UIx8R1LV6HM/видео.html ). That's all coming to my mind right now. Hope it helps!

Thanks! And sorry, I haven't worked with fire detectors (neither smoke, nor heat, nor gasses like CO2) so far. So I can't really recommend any sensors.

Thanks for the praise! Doing a FFT on the output signal is definitely the way to go if you want to get the most out of these modules. Please let me know how using additional modules as transmitters works out for you. I think the challenge will be to make sense of the signal output of the single mixer, since the oscillators are not in sync (maybe close enough in frequency, but definitely out of phase). And greetings from Germany!

@@robertssmorgasbord What you say about ECWL-0516 is very interesting. From what I can understand, the device is basically a super-regenerative receiver. This puts the system at times in transmission and at times in reception. This change is given randomly over time. This randomness manifests itself as white noise, which is emitted in the form of RF with the frequency of the tank circuit between the printed circuit and the distributed capacities. The work changes are altered by a secondary antenna that increases the emitted power. It also affects the time it remains in the reception state. I also tried modulating the RF output with audio and it seems to work. More tests would have to be done. It's very interesting.

@@dbagnis Playing with microwave circuitry is fun for sure. I have to admit when it comes to the details, or more specifically, to make microwave circuitry exactly what you want it to do, I'm struggling. It's like black magic to me.

To be honest, I've switched to the A1335 (first video here: ruclips.net/video/b_1zqg0UZw0/видео.htmlsi=NmtvX_GhS9B3JnpM ). I'm using the internal correction table/mechanism of the A1335 nowadays ( ruclips.net/video/E37hL-k9jiY/видео.htmlsi=29HiJuzEU3BNqFS4 ).

I'm always happy if my videos are useful to somebody. And you're welcome!

You're very welcome!

I have to admit that I'm at a loss for words 🤔

Thanks for subscribing! BTW, the DOCSIS 4.0 spec (10GB/s down, 6GB/s up) is quite impressive.

Thanks! But that's too much praise 😅 There must be better videos out there and, more importantly, better processes.

Thanks! But that's too much praise 😅 There must be better videos out there and, more importantly, better processes.

@@robertssmorgasbord I have watched many, but lots of times parts of the process are left out. I think the PCB exposure setup could be improved. Some stray light always creeps in from the side. The light needs to be further away from the PCB.

@@jooch_exe You're right. When I came up with the idea for the exposure unit (basically reusing an old scanner) I limited the available distance between the UV sources (LEDs in this case) and the PCB.

Yes, indeed 🙂 In the good old days you would have used a ROM or a PROM.

It's a Proxxon BFW 40/E, BFB 2000, KT 150 Mill/Drill Combo. I picked it up used: ruclips.net/video/AKdBRVT9RWs/видео.htmlsi=o5tfuWR_liCQCfYE

You're welcome! Testing USB chargers is not really my forte. I don't have any of the required equipment (USB dummy loads, USB protocol emulators etc.). My nephew got that thing at Christmas in a Amazon surprise/return box. Since it was completely unusable in Germany (wrong plug, wrong mains AC voltage), it was destined to end up in my slaughterhouse 😅

Yes, I have still have sometimes trouble with the display. It seems to be a thermal thing that only occurs when it's cold in the room during the winter time. But that's just my unit. At that price point I still think you can't get a better linear PSU. However, if I had more money to spend back then I would have gone for the Rigol DP715 (about 350€).

@@robertssmorgasbord thank you! I will check that one up! I am also thinking of the Riden 6030W (60v 30A) controll unit about 100€ but then I need the transformer and rectifying bridge... Or use some Makita batteries in series 😂. I like the Riden since it has logging function through software and battery charging feature. Not sure about Owon and Rigol... Thank you!

@@catalinalb1722 You're welcome! But keep in mind, that the Riden is switch-mode PSU and not a linear PSU.

@@robertssmorgasbord I did ordered the Riden 6030W for 100€. Yes the controller is switched mode I guess that's the case with most of them. I will prepare an enclosure carrying 3 Makita Batteries, when done will release a video along with the 3D files for printing.

@@catalinalb1722 Looking forward to seeing that video 🙂

Yeah, it's too much hustle and too high a risk. Repairing/replacing the power supply is easy, but if something else is broken, things get tricky.

I literally don't know what to reply to that 🤔 But I like the sky and the palm trees where you live 🙂

Ah, you're welcome, I guess 🤔

Thanks for the praise! And you're very welcome!

Yeah, I probably should have 🙁 Anyway, thanks for pointing that out to me. But the damage is done now and so I won't reupload the video. In any case, that's just a window of my office space, so my privacy is hopefully still intact.

Yeah, live fast, hard and dangerous 🤣 But seriously, I would have preferred to get the second parallel out too, but it simply wouldn't budge.

it's always the details 😅 And you're very welcome!

You're welcome 🙂

Sorry, but I can't recommend specific 7-segment displays, because beyond those kits I've never used and. In general I can recommend basically all 7-segment displays that are sold by reputable distributors, e.g. DigiKey. Anything you get from eBay, Amazon, AliExpress etc. is always hit or miss.

@@robertssmorgasbord Thanks..

@@selimcanovur587 You're welcome!

Thanks! And you're very welcome!