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Thank you. Informative. Will there be a video about the EasySolar work? Many people have solar panels now. What is better and more reliable EasySolar or MultiPlus II GX+MC4 controler?

Great video for specialists! I didn't quite understand. If there's excess solar power through the MC4 controller, the battery charge is set, does the AC2 port switch and power this line? And does the AC port remain connected and then disconnect?

Does this also work with a non Victron battery(getting the SOC from the smartshunt)?

Hi! I have Victron Multiplus II 48V - 5000VA - 70A + Cerbo GX. Please advise how can I use gasoline 6 kWt generator. Once battery is low and blackout, how can I charge battery with generator? Do I have to change battery settings (SoC, DoD etc) every single time I want to charge lifepo3 battery with generator?

When I configure the inverter with VEconfig do I need to disconnect other devices such as the charge controller and GX device? Thx.

Thanks. Very helpful.

Great video, I configured mine to start at 96% but increased the “dead zone” to 80%. This is way better since the batteries can suddenly drop by 2% when handling a high load before the MPPT has analyzed the power requirement and adjusts the state from float to bulk charging. This will cause the relay to switch on and off far too many times as the SoC changes and this will cause excessive wear.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Very informative.

Thanks to your video I could setup my multiplus to use the AC OUT 2 as I wish ! Great additionnal use to m'y solar setup ! 👌

amazing videos that are really needed for victron users. cannot believe you dont have more subscribers

Really great video. This comprehensive overview of the settings and the effect on the system is what I need! Thank you so much!

Hi. Great videos. Have subd. I have a question. I have a Multiplus2 on my boat. Connected to a generator but NO shore power AC connected to it. When drawing AC power through inverter, if we draw to higher load (over 3000w) the inverter does not seem to shut down and overheats until it blows a 300a fuse to batteries. Is there any way to change configuration to get inverter to shut down. Thanks in advance.

Good video. One big point, though on low SoC alarms. On my system, the SmartShunt has an alarm rule parameter called "Low state-of-charge alarm" which works identically to the regular SoC alarm, but only has the low alarms, as you wanted. A downside to this alarm is that there aren't any definitions for what constitutes a "warning" or "alarm" state in VRM, as this is set in the VictronConnect app for the Shunt. So it might not be perfect because you can't set this in VRM but it does allow another option for your "low only SoC" alarm. Another downside might be that this solution requires you to have a Shunt, which not every Victron system has (though they all should!). HtH.

Thanks so much for doing this. I can imagine the amount of work that went i to this

Very detailed explanation, thanks! I have been running ESS for over a year powering my home and it’s amazing. I am just wondering, am I listening to an AI generated voice in this video?

A quick and very important addition to this video that I didn’t mention. In default mode (with no relays setup), the AC-OUT-1 is where you must connect your essential (important) loads, as this will continue to be active, when the grid drops, and the inverter powers the loads in UPS mode. At the same time the AC-OUT-2 automatically disconnects, removing the AC-OUT-2 loads, which are your non-essential (heavy loads) such as air-con, geyser etc. HOWEVER - Once you setup and enable the two programmable relays on the AC-OUT-2, you are overriding this default. It will therefore no longer automatically disconnect, and continue to remain active just like AC-OUT-1. This is why you can use this setup to change its programming, to do whatever the relay tells it. In this case it will now only disconnect when the battery SoC reaches the “lower than” % value specified in the relay. For this reason, you will for example be able to power your geyser, as long as you have enough excess solar, even if the grid drops. This also answers the questions as to how this differs from an ESS setup. This can be used in an off-grid situation, whereas ESS always requires a grid tied system to work. Also note that there are no current sensors built into the AC-OUT-2, so it effectively never knows what loads are connected to it. The AC-OUT-2 is actually just a branch of AC-OUT-1, which operates on a switch basis, that can be programmed (as we doing in this video) Because it is a branch of AC-OUT-1, you must therefore make sure to not exceed the inverter’s total max output(W), as per your MultiPlus-II data sheet. Combined, both AC-OUT-1 and AC-OUT-2, must not exceed the limit You can find the MP-II data sheet here: www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-II-inverter-charger-EN.pdf For example with the 5kVA model, the max load at optimal 25°C is 4000W. Therefore your TOTAL load split between both AC-OUT 1 & 2 must not exceed 4000W when inverting. If you have the “inverter output voltage” set to 230V in the VEConfig “inverter settings” tab ruclips.net/video/7Z-O8NGAOfY/видео.html, then this will work out to: 4000W / 230V = 17.39A (across both AC-OUT 1 & 2) In passthrough mode (when not inverting and the loads are powered from the grid) this changes to 50A as per the “Max AC input current rating” on the spec sheet. (Obviously doesn’t apply to off-grid systems - unless using a generator): 50A x 230V = 11,500W

Did not know I could do all this. Very helpful

So much great info, thank you!

Very well explained yet to a high level of details. Great work.

ok.. new subscriber here. I'm a Victron fan\user. 2 arrays: 1160 ground mount and tilted and 1200w on a dual axis tracker. 300Ah lithium 8' away from 12v 3000 MPII, CERBO with display, Lynx dist 1000, bmv 712smart. Batteries were in float and I manually turned on breaker for water heater.. I know how to setup the assistants for L2.. but how do I wire up from the MPII to the breaker panel to power it automatically..? I'm guess some romex 5' away. Just not sure how to tie into the breaker..?

Nice video. I did the same a few month ago for my easysolar and was looking for a video like this at the time. I have noticed that the BMS is often severely limiting the charge rate by the time batteries are up to 95 percent. My max mppt point is around 150V and I often see around 170V when up at 95 percent battery. So in order to avoid this potential waste I would tend to turn the hot water circuit on earlier, maybe 80 percent before the bms starts limiting the mppt charge current to the battery. I run it between 80 and 70 percent to save relay wear. My hot water is predominantly diesel boiler fueled with an auxiliary electric element which I use to save diesel. On the subject of turning stuff on and off, I have the diesel boiler on a timer and it only comes on (if needed) for half and hour after dark. The boiler man commented it was the cleanest he’s seen which I’d attribute to the boiler running only once, getting hot and switching off as opposed to doing lots of on off cycles. Like short trips in a car I guess. Anyhow. Thanks for the vid Sean

The aes system seems flawed, my easysolar 2 is pulling around 30-40w constant when everything is on standby. Both settings above are set to 99watts but low power mode hardly turns on and when it does it goes off nearly instantly any idea why this is? It is like the wattage read out isnt accurate at all i have literally given up on it at this point 😂

I came up with a nifty solution using a satellite battery. When my main 48V system fills up (56.8V) I have a bit of logic to turn on a DC-DC charger to transfer energy from the 48V system to a 24V battery (Just a DC-DC and a 100Ah 25.6V LiFePO4 battery). It turns it off if/when the 48V system drops to roughly 54V (the float). So it ends up cycling a bunch in the latter half of the day pushing the excess energy into the 24V battery. This way the solar just keeps pumping power out at full bore. I then dump essentially the entire energy content of the 24V battery daily, to whatever I want. I've tried dumping it to a cheap 120VAC micro-inverter to export it to the grid 4-9pm, I've tried having it run portable heat-pump (A/C or heating). I've tried a bunch of things. The advantage of having a satellite battery to hold excess energy is that you can dump the energy to the loads whenever you want... so for example it can run a small heater overnight if I want it to. I don't have to burn the energy on the spot (during the excess solar) which might not be the most opportune time to use that excess energy. -Matt

Are you making videos for the charger and other tabs?

Does the Soc values still work when charge and discharge happens in isolation to the Multiplus. Like in a van with dcdc rather then shore power charging.

I'm was interested to see your video because I am looking into ways to back feed power from my inverter to my home wiring so that no excess solar is lost. So far I have been looking at ESS. But I don't get this approach - lets say I use this to power a load from acout2 when there is excess solar power. Fine. But when there is no excess solar power what is powering that load? Well I assume nothing if the load is powered only by the output from acout2. Would you not need the load on some sort of separate Automatic Transfers switch which can switch between power sources (for example acout2 and the grid) to keep the it running? Why not use the ESS to power your home with the excess solar? If you do a video on that I would be very interested, esp. if you can discuss feeding excess solar into your home only (but not into the grid).

How will this interact with a normal ESS system, when there are loads and exporting of excess DC solar using the AC-In of a Multiplus II 230v unit ? I'd assume one would need to disable exporting excess DC solar, and that the AC-in ESS loads would be treated the same as the AC-Out 1 critical loads......? But I'd like to confirm this. I'm using the Victron Energy Meter ET-112 with it's current clamp on the grid input if that is a factor also.

Will this work with dess?

Great video....detail explanatory

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NOTE: At 10:40 I entered 48V as the DC input low shut-down voltage. However, as mentioned elsewhere, you should not run LiFePO4 lower than 20% SOC for optimal battery health. Therefore, it's best to increase this to around 51V to 51.5V in order for it to match 20% SOC, as 48V will be closer to 10% SOC. Again, all batteries and systems are different, so to get the most accurate measurement, test your system, and run it down to 20%, then take note of the Voltage and enter that in as your DC input low shut-down voltage. For example, you can easily find this LiFePO4 Battery Voltage table online: 12V: 14.6V (100% charging) 13.6V (100% resting) 13.4V (99%) 13.3V (90%) 13.2V (70%) 13.1V (40%) 13.0V (30%) 12.9V (20%) 12.8V (17%) 12.5V (14%) 12.0V (9%) 10.0V (0%) 24V: 29.2V (100% charging) 27.2V (100% resting) 26.8V (99%) 26.6V (90%) 26.4V (70%) 26.2V (40%) 26.0V (30%) 25.8V (20%) 25.6V (17%) 25.0V (14%) 24.0V (9%) 20.0V (0%) 48V: 58.4V (100% charging) 54.4V (100% resting) 53.6V (99%) 53.2V (90%) 52.8V (70%) 52.4V (40%) 52.0V (30%) 51.6V (20%) 51.2V (17%) 50.0V (14%) 48.0V (9%) 40.0V (0%) However, this is just a general guideline, because in my system test, it was at 52V at 40% SOC, while this table shows 51.6V as 40% SOC. I have yet to test my system’s voltage at 20% SOC, so for now, I am estimating around 51V to 51.5V, based on the 40% SOC voltage measurement. Naturally adjust your restart and alarm voltages accordingly, as shown in the video.

Hi, How can I get onto a Victron solar panel course? Who can I contact?

Love the content, keep it coming

Amazing info! thanks you so much. Its been terribly difficult to get my head around all this as a beginner and no where else have I found such precise and easy to understand explanations of it all. you are the best :D

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At 53:46 I can see, that at the "GRID" the "L1" is negative. Does it means, that the Victron supply back energy to the grid system? Is it possible to limit the the supplied energy to the grid to zero?

Great insight !

Would u be able to do a video of how to switch on ac 2 and off if batteries drop below a certain battery percentage

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Very clear explanations

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Saving setting will not save the assistant file. Assistant have to be saved separately under Assistants tab. Reloading the settings will only amend settings within General, Grid, Inverter, Charger and VS tab.

Great Video. Thanks for sharing

Re bonding: According to SANS all exposed metal parts of an installation have to be connected to the Consumer Earth. The connections are referred to as Protective Earth, as it is supposed to be independently connected not relying on the Earth from the Utility. Wiki says: The conductor that connects the exposed metallic parts of the consumer's electrical installation is called protective earth (PE; see also: Ground)

It's all fine and professional, but what really bothers me is the missing D from the word "hardware" in the thumbnail...