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@@russelllarue1583 if you have non-pressed rotors on the front, you might be able to do them without pulling the hubs.

@murphysgarage The rear will be no problem. The front is iffy if I can do it without removing the hub. I need to pull one of each so I can order the correct ones. I'm told they are ram 3500 studs, but newer ones are 14mm. Mine are 9/16" like older dodge's. The shoulders vary also.

New tires will be here tuesday.

@@russelllarue1583 I am having issues with tire companies at the moment. Should have it straightened out next week.

Nope, was in good shape and wasn’t doing a full rebuild.

If it shifted smooth and easy by hand on the bench, the first thing I would look at is the ramp on the shifter. You can kind of do a test without taking it back out. If you remove the detent ball and spring externally and then see if it goes in and out easy, you know it is the ramp on the shifter. If it makes no change, it may be in the slide assembly, shift collar etcetera. then you would have to open it back up.

Thank you ill check that this afternoon.

@@allanwagner4570 thank you

@@nwyoda8792 thank you

@@davidcraft4909 1410

@@kensnyder2340 probably never, I’m just hoping this crawler works well.

@@murphysgarage , I think it is well thought out.

@@robradican1121 I believe, 63” but I only ran them the first year and then went coil. The mounting points on the front kept hitting things.

@@murphysgarage thanks for the info! It’s fun to see a rig progress. Thanks for the video.

@@robradican1121 I actually like using Wagoneer springs, they are long on one side and you can get a few inches of stretch out of them.

@@Jayfab79 TCI 221201, it was labeled with engine braking. I will know for sure in about 6 months when I finish the buggy. Thanks for watching.

@murphysgarage interesting. Might check the directions. I can email you the two different TCI instructions I have. 1 is with, and one is without engine braking. Is that a Jimmy's chassis?

@@Jayfab79 the one I am doing a build out on is a Jimmy’s RW-1. The one I am building for myself is not.

@@carllafong9368 absolutely, don’t install the crush sleeve until your final assembly. Just snug up the pinion without the crush sleeve until the pinion bearings are seated with some preload. Once you get the depth set correctly, then install the crush sleeve and torque to the preload spec.

@@murphysgarage Thank you so much for the quick reply. I’m rebuilding a Dana 30 and when I took it apart there were no shims on the pinion. This had me concerned because I’m not sure if this is common or not? When I reassemble I want to make sure my pinion depth is correct and I wasn’t sure if you could do so without installing the crush sleeve. Thank you again.

@@carllafong9368 you are correct, set it up first. By the way, there may be a shim behind the pinion bearing or behind the inner race. I also have a Dana 30 video that might give you some additional information. It is hard to do a thorough video on this subject in a reasonable amount of time.

@@murphysgarage Thank you I’ll search for you Dana 30 video. There were no shims on the pinion underneath the bearing or behind the race. That’s what concerned me that someone had been in there before and took out the factory shims and never put them back? The pinion also had Japanese bearings while the carrier had Timken’s leading me to believe it had been rebuilt before. Thank you.

@@carllafong9368 interesting, I would out it together and run a pattern, go from there.

@@kensnyder2340 thanks, I can’t believe how many I have done so far.

@@bluelinemajor1499 thanks! You are correct, some of the forks don’t have them.

@@paolofogaccia9455 if the seals have the red coating or the raised glue looking stuff on the metal side, then you don’t need to use anything but if they are bare metal, then I would.

@@DependableAutoTruck The owner wanted it left mostly because this stand alone engine harness requires it for their warranty, even though I doubt they would since I did some reworking.

Fusible links have no mechanical joints for corrosion to creep in, more reliable. Only drawback is when they fail, now you are cutting and splicing wires.

@@benjaminreinhardt259 exactly correct.

@@DependableAutoTruck so you can use the dash switch for controlling the winch as a suck down winch.

@@kevin43324332 just clamped it to the head.

@@mjo326 I guess when you don’t show people doing ridiculous things it takes a while. Thanks for watching.

@@mjo326 that and I’m not real exciting to watch.

@@murphysgarage , you could put on a speedo and weld in some sandals, LOL! 😁

@@sheldonkepley4585 I usually use the cheapest 80-90 I can buy unless the axle calls for a specific oil. Some of the E lockers will call for synthetic oil so they will release correctly.

@@kensnyder2340 thanks, I just need more viewing hours.

@@OldMcDonald-j1u the snap-ring pliers are off the Snap-on truck.

@@benl227 if the surfaces are real clean, it shouldn’t leak, if you have to use any sealant, you need to recheck depth and might have to remove a thousandth to compensate.

@@murphysgarage no worries, will do. Was just going to put a very thin layer of ultrablack on the surfaces to fill any small imperfections

Ok, let me see if I can answer this so it makes sense. The pinion depth controls the contact pattern with the ring gear, the backlash controls the distance between the ring teeth and the pinion teeth. When you are adjusting the pinion depth, you only need to be close to the backlash to see the depth pattern and any change in the pinion depth will alter the distance in backlash. Once I get an acceptable pattern, then I can do a final assembly on the pinion gear with the seal, crush sleeve etcetera. Once the pinion depth is complete, I can dial in the backlash to the exact or close to exact as I want and set the preload on the side bearings at the same time. If you set your backlash first, and then go after an acceptable pattern, you will have more assembly and disassembly along with the problem, if you change the pinion depth at all, the backlash will also change. This may be a good one for one of my Q&A videos I am planning. Thanks.

@@kensnyder2340 yeah, I don’t like them enough to do them often but I wanted the TCI kit in this one and didn’t want to spend 4k on it.

@@brotherjesus4246 I didn’t.

@@matthiasfreihube5610 I have looked at fab bumpers, check out Flyin’ Iron out of Denver. Just like building stuff so that keeps me from doing prefabricated stuff.

@@matthiasfreihube5610 the frame is Rustolium reforming primer in spots and Rustolium flat black.

@@cyarn I know if there is to much slop you can have issues with wear and can cause early failure, I seem to see it in the low range shift collar. I look at the snap rings on the main shafts real close ever since I discovered there are some thicker snap rings which won’t fully seat and then come off when shifting in and out of gear. When this happens, it won’t go in 4wd and will eventually cause a real problem.

I purchased a bunch of parts from East Coast gear supply and quick performance as well.

@@murphysgarage Thanks for your response

One ton 4 wheel disc under a big bore hydro-boost stops on a dime.

Yes it is. Sorry, I didn’t focus a bunch on the baffle, some differentials don’t have them and some do. Unfortunately I usually damage them when I remove the inner race and replace them with new ones on final assembly. Measure and use shims to substitute in place of the baffle until finally assembly then swap the shims out for the baffle.

I wouldn’t change any shims, reinstall everything the same, new bearings shouldn’t change the preload or backlash if it was set up correctly originally. You don’t want to adjust it due to a wear pattern. I would check the backlash and preload just to be sure and definitely don’t change the depth shims on used gears, that will not change. Don’t try to do a contact pattern either, it won’t read right on used gears.

When you say preload, are you referring to the carrier bearings or pinion preload? Sorry for the dumb questions

Both, first make sure the pinion is good and then the carrier. Just doing bearings though, you shouldn’t have to change anything.

@@murphysgarage Thankyou!

I haven’t done much with the Dodge front AAM, it is basically a Dodge 9.25 converted to a steer axle. They do compete with the Dana 60 ball joint axle but there is not near the parts and upgrade availability as a 60. The unit bearings can be upgrades with a hub kit from Dynatrac along with ball joints. I have met a couple guys that did a complete chassis change on an army truck with 40’s and it is holding up ok.