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Hi and thanks for the sub. It wasn’t rejected for the end can but I believe (please feel free to fact check me) that rejecting only required if end can upgraded and air filter changed for something like k&n. I would change coolant and fluid for sure if it’s many years, but if only a few will be fine. Check the colour, if looks dark then change it. For the deep scratches, use that Big Boy plastic filler I used, easy to work with and finishes well. Unfortunately came off it again a few weeks back so need to do that panel again. Good luck though, glad I’ve inspired you!!

Haha, I’ll take the compliment on the caliper rebuild. I know organic pads aren’t as sharp but they have done me fine for road use.

Thanks for your comment - agreed, I absolutely love this bike, I’ve probably had it 17 years now.

Hi, yeah the TFT screen should be the same. If not, at least the procedure will be in Multiecuscan.

Haha, yeah great tip. Why didn’t I think of that?

Hi, it’s there or there abouts. Actual size on my socket is imperial 5/8

Haha, don’t think Carl would be too happy with that but made me laugh.

Agreed, our roads are in a shocking state. There’s even potholes on the M62 and a few other motorways.

Hi, the only parts I have are those I removed for binning. eBay are a pretty good source but parts are becoming harder to find at a decent price. What do you need?

Thank you - glad you liked and appreciate your comment.

It’s hard to say really if changing the filter made much of a noticeable difference. What did make a difference though was using Mechanic In A Bottle - I did a video on that.

@@bikenut Thank you! I’ll check it out

Thanks

No problem - hope it helps you!

Yes gutted, but it will be road ready again very soon.

Roger that! I can’t wait to get back on it

Thank you - yes it sure is a bit gutting, worse is when you pick it up off the floor and reveal the damage. I’ve replaced a front indicator before after I knocked it off when it was parked in my garage. I found that by submerging the firm rubber in hot water for a short time that it made it temporarily flexible enough to mount into the fairing.

@@bikenut I could of done with that piece of information a week ago as i tried and failed to get them into the fairing so i just opted for some flush fitted ones Glad you are planning on fixing it though rather than just writing it off its a beauty

Restoring this is my absolute intention. I’ve had the bike too long to give up on it. As long as the new subframe aligns then it’s game on!

@@bikenut GOOD MAN! I believe you can do it!

Thank you. Hopefully will be all good again soon.

Hi - thank you, yes I will spend a bit of time showing that for you on the next video.

Ha, did I not do that? I usually do haha.

@bikenut seemed like it was a little difficult to maneuver sorry if I'm wrong bud! Just trying to help make life easier

Hi, sorry about that - which tool are you referring to and I’ll let you know?

Haha, I know I know lol. I have noticed that myself when editing.

Thanks - yes same here, you can save a fortune. It’s a bottle jack, not really ideal for this as only just managed to fit under but all I had at the time.

Thanks for replying 👍🏼

Hi, sounds like an interesting project. Are you adding any videos of this to RUclips?

Ha, maybe I just got lucky? Not sure if I showed in the video or not but is there a washer that is folded against the nut that needs prising back first?

❤❤❤❤😂😂😂😂😂💯💯

What size of socket do I need? Struggling to find a socket that fits 😂

Mine was the same i slipped a 6foot scaffolding bar over my socket and say 12 inch extention bar and it to some doing. I taught some was going to break but it just opened.

Still using it, I started the bike last weekend for first time in about 5 months and it was fine, revs a little low for a few mins and a bit of stuttering but carbs soon cleared themselves and no stripping down. It really is good stuff.

Thank you - yes it’s harder than you think trying to video and work. I’m going to get back to it but so so busy recently. Thanks for the support!

Hi - just had a look at it says SK on the unit.

Thanks for your comment but I don’t think that is correct. With this carb, 1 and 2 are sync’d with the adjustment screw between them, the same then for 3 and 4. Once you have 1 sync’d with 2 and 3 sync’d with 4, you can then sync both pairs with the adjustment screw in the middle.

Entao estamos falando de configurações diferentes no mesmo modelo de motos,porque aqui no Brasil a zx6r tem apenas 3 parafusos de sincronismos nos carburadores que sao 4 carburadores,o numero um da esquerda ja vem calibrado de fabrica como referença para os outros 3 carburadores se vc possuir o vacuometro de 4 relógios vc vai ver que so consegue ajustar o 2 o 3 eo 4,tendo como referencia o numero 1, 34 anos trabalhando com motocicletas 21 anos em autorizada Honda

So that’s interesting to hear - I’ve no reason to doubt you and can not find any resources on specific Brazilian versions of the bike. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for noticing - it sounded even better in person.

Yes I should have done that and also the brake fluid ideally. Car was on about 34k miles.

Hi, have you retrofitted the TFT display? If so it may need other modules replacing. There is an excellent article on this here. forum.eurocompulsion.net/articles/installation-guides-tips/85-2015-tft-cluster-retrofit-guide

It is, or there about. Could do with alloys refurbed but it’s a little belter. Check out my other vids.

@@bikenut will do!! Thanks👍

That is exactly what they need - can you get that in the factory colour too? Which one did you use?

Just done mine look mint, I used deco colour satin gold spray paint, 9.99 and there's enough to do fronts and rears.

@@nicklee9590 thanks - looks like Amazon sell that so I’ll get a can. Cheers!

Hi Tony - glad you found it helpful. Yes, there is a copper crush washer which you should replace rather than reuse.

Thank you so much@@bikenut. Have ordered one off eBay now. Again, thanks for the advice.

Hi Nick, it just routes down wherever it naturally drops and does not attach to anything at the bottom.

@@bikenut thanks for this information…

So, you’ve never removed a continuous OEM chain then!

Oem chains dont have links

@@marcquirante2383 yeah, I already apologized to him.

@@bikenut does the link get damaged in process? Have to add a new link later?

Hi, the link is undamaged if you’re careful grinding the head off the pin. Only the pin should need replacing.

Have a look on the back of the carbs - if still on bike. What are you aiming to do?

@@bikenut Trying to see if my bike has gas in the carbs

Is it running poor or not at all? If running poor stick some “Mechanic in a bottle” in the tank (as in this video) which will help with cleaning the carbs. If not at all it could be the fuel pump - check your fuses and also have a look at the filter to make sure it’s not blocked.

Interested to hear more about the “ram air mod” - what is that?

Thanks for the comment and glad you’ve found my videos useful.

Thanks and good tip - sure, my method is a bit Heath Robinson and dodgy AF but it was well ventilated.

Nice one - I find it quite satisfying to do my own jobs now.

Владелец сам должен обслуживать и ремонтировать свой самокат 🤟😁

Hi, they are no longer made from what I can see but just had a quick search on eBay and found someone has a load of these new and they come with the removable baffle which I never had. Search for item number 254104325620

Hi Rishi, I’m sorry I haven’t got a clue. The exhaust came already on the bike. I will be doing a DynoJet upgrade soon though.

Hi Charlie, that was my plan but on attempted removal it just stretched out far too much. I think I may have used too much heat though. I’m going to get a piece of vinyl I think and trim to suit.

Cheers! I’m sure I’ll get my money back at least. Such a fun car to drive too.

Really good to hear that - my chain and sprockets were probably well overdue.