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I have two way towers, could bass modules work with them? Would it cause time or phase issues having these on the side instead of on the bottom of the speakers?

Do you mind sharing which software you use to design speakers and crossovers?

At 1:48 - 2:10, shouldn't you add a little glue to the edge where the top meets the brace?

Looks amazing!

Great work. Would have picked a different color of stain, but that's what's great about making it yourself.

I love my 1TD-X speakers. That bass cab would be great, but I need a kit with a flat pack.

Port plus will not destroy your speakers. Ports will not destroy your speakers. Excessive volume and especially at bass frequencies might. Volume which is generally controlled by the user ;-) That said usually a sealed speaker will have its largest excursion points at a different frequency than a ported speaker, so you should simply test with sine waves etc at a sensible level. People should also consider limiting the maximum volume outputtable so that there is less chance of accidentally blasting the speakers

I want to make individual speaker enclosures and connections for the low, mid and high. That way i can easily change one of the drivers. With active crossovers being so popular i dont get why nobody tries this other than milliin dollar wilsons.

I want to make individual speaker enclosures and connections for the low, mid and high. That way i can easily change one of the drivers. With active crossovers being so popular i dont get why nobody tries this other than milliin dollar wilsons.

Looks absolutely awesome. Great stuff Dan

Wow, great video guys! Can't wait for Kerry's project!

Awesome idea, did you add high pass filter to TDX's in this setup?

Outstanding video, beneficial to many I'm sure. And, the end result turned out really nice.

Are there any shallow woofers that could be used to make that same bass module idea into a dual opposed woofer set to avoid any cabinet wobble? .... I've see a pair built something like this .. with front facing drivers and side firing radiators. ( or like the Gershman acoustics Black Swan .. with the top " bookshelf " built into a stand around the bass so it doesn't touch at all - no coupling ) I really like the idea of making bass separate for vibration control .. and still very analog to keep the transients as responsive across all freq ( without a sub DSP slowing them down ) Definitely following this one .. I like the idea =)

Would buy it right now! :)

I want a kit, sign me up.

Seriously considering the add on bass modules. Do they still utilize the crossovers in the 1TDX?

👍

I have a question. What are the disks under the 1TD-X? Would you recommend IsoAcoustics Gaia for this?

Fantastic. Looks a very interesting kit to add to the 1TD-X I built recently here in the UK. I actually wasn’t aware there was a bass module at all to add to what are already great speakers.

I'd like to see a taller version. I have built the 1TD-X with Bass module and have found it sounds better higher off the floor. My bass module is 37 in tall after adding a lift kit. I envision a tower with 2 (or 4), 7 in speakers sized to match 1 TD-x.

Definitely interested in a kit.

Plugging a ported speaker usually makes them sound crap

I saw the build video by "Sam" of the new 3TD-X, it was beautifully shot BTW. Is there any chance you'll be providing any acoustic measurements for them or possibly send a review sample out to someone who will? Erin Harding (Erin's Audio Corner) does a really great job covering both the subjective and objective data so I'm hoping he gets a pair. Thank you so much guys!

For those new to such antics foam pipe insulation or pool noodles are cheap and don't hurt anything.

I reckon not quite enough bass is good and just a bit too much is also good. But what I reckon is BAD is just the right bass level. The bass (for me) simply "disappears" with the right level and is so unengaging! I usuually go for just a bit too much bass (by one percent) so you can hear the bass. I build speakers as a serious hobby. When not quite enough bass, you can hear it more than the right level, and bass is tight and fast but won't rock thefloor (but way better than the right level). Good for chamber music. 😅 Crazy as it seems but this happens with all my speaker builds and it's like that with my B&W 706 reference speakers. I ran the woofers only and had an open FR driver on the med and treble and it was like one percent less output than the B&W tweeter, and I didn't realise how GOOD the bass is on the 706s, way more FUN to listen to the bass on those speakers (with one percent more bass level). And the bass was louder but didn't even sound louder, just way more "punchy", so it was louder. With my B&Ws original, though, the bass (being the right level) was so uninteresting and unengageing compared to my experiment bass level. 😅

That would be good. Also look into un box like cabinet shapes. Angled shapes there’s even a dude out there that makes clear acrylic? Cabinets. Also driver rings that cover the screws for a clean look. Options to install magnets on the inside baffle for magnetic grills. Strive to make the end product as UN DIY looking as possible.

Are you planning kits with these tweeters? I don’t see any on your website.

Honestly, the idea of ​​restricting the diameter of the resonance duct or even clogging it with certain acoustic materials to reduce the excess bass and sub-bass of an acoustic cabinet in certain environments seems stupid. That's what frequency band equalization is for. And regarding the idea that I saw someone mentioning, of using acoustic materials inside the duct to make the box have deeper bass, I wouldn't recommend it if you don't know the equipment you have well, as it can cause several inconveniences such as the blowing effect (the air moving at a very high speed inside the portico), moderate to drastic changes in the frequency response of the acoustic cabinet, etc. If you have a box that doesn't sound smooth and pleasant and doesn't have acoustic absorbent material inside, try using such materials. It doesn't need to be anything special, just take up the entire interior of the box without taking up too much of the cabinet's actual volume. I tested this using pillow stuffing - which resembles glass wool - and it worked so well in my speaker that it completely changed the frequency response for the better (it attenuated the unwanted bass frequency response from 120 Hz and above, and gave a boost in the performance of the sub-bass frequency response from 70 Hz to 30 Hz), compared to the factory model with no acoustic material inside.

I wondering about taking the square corners off a Corian baffle. Testing that might be worth your effort.

Some drivers are made for close, bass reflex, horn infinite speakers that’s it

Probably making the speaker lasts longer cause it doesnt extend as much. Like when you put a reg speaker in an infinite baffle and it over extends and breaks

Just found your channel and subscribed. You gave a competent and thorough answer. Thanks!

can i put a 2tdx kit into a cabinet with a front port? how does the sound different between front ported and rear ported?

Great!👏👏👏

The third type is a can of vienna sausages wrapped in a black sock.

Been rockin the dirty sock trick for years, finally built proper removable seal

I like what I hear from your speakers. U should make theater specific diy speakers

Built seals for full marty ports.

Useful vid, thanx.

Off-topic somewhat but when playing around with tuning ports using different length tubes I realised that tuning left and right speakers to different frequencies can actually work. (I am of course assuming that low bass is a mono signal on most recordings.) If you think of it it does have its advantages: You can tune to a wider frequency range rather than having to settle on a narrower one. There'll be less of a boost but a more uniform one. If you have to place your speakers asymmetrically putting one of them close to a boom-prone corner, you can put the longer port tube in that one, tuning it lower and providing more control over the mid-upper bass where things can more easily get out of hand. I don't think anyone else has tried that before, so you heard it here first :)

Implied but not said is the matter that below the port resonance air flows freely into and out of the port (hence the greater excursion) But it is out of phase with the woofer cone, which causes acoustic cancellation and a much sharper roll off in frequency response. Thus plugging the port usually results in a bit less but deeper bass. This is an easy test... turn off your subwoofer(s), now listen to some music with deep rumbling bass in it, at mid-loud levels... putting your hand over the port will usually result in less overall bass but more deep bass, since you've stopped the cancellation effect. Like all things audio, a little science helps, but the end result is usually a judgement call.

We can’t plug port in a amplifier subwoofer ?

What type of port plugs do you provide for the Torii bookshelf, are they 0% or 100% blocking or are they like the KEF ones where they're a two-piece design to provide some adjustability? Also, are they open or closed cell foam? Thanks!

Very good ideas and anything that isn't plain would be great.

Too much bass? NEVER!!!

So in essence, plugging the port actually prevents mechanical damage instead of causing it by dampening wild swings of the woofer-cone….

Sounds great, no pun intended, I would love to see the cherry.

Oh yes please. Im saving up for Criton 3, would be interested in corian flat black front baffle but I am good to veneer the rest

Absolutely follow through with this idea ❤