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Hi Mat - yep… It is frankly a miracle that it still runs! Need to blast it through with a hose to clear out the rust and sludge, and refil with a rust inhibiting coolant! Have changed that rad cap btw… totally shot!

My pleasure - glad it was useful, and thanks for watching!

Cheers man - this is going to be a pretty special guitar!

You are very welcome! be careful when checking what type you have - I have had stuff shipped as 2 that was actually 1, and vice versa... always check! The pin out diagrams in this vid are shown from the bottom (looking at the legs) so an easy thing to check with a multimeter; The video shows the type 2 layouts... if you have a type 1, just take a screen shot and flip it on the horizontal - the wiring is exact mirror image! Hope that helps and good luck - this is a lovely little mod!

The perfect optical illusion - never gets old!!

Cheers! They are a known weak spot - even from their first mots, they were faulty… basically because we don’t use them regularly enough and they seize! This is (as far as I know) still the only vid on RUclips that shows the full overhaul start to finish… I reckon most folks must only do this job in a scrape and probably the day before an mot, so just don’t have time… thanks for watching!

You are very welcome - and welcome aboard! Check out the XC90 playlist... she was a real wreck when I picked her up, so just about everything has been done and documented!! Wheel bearing replacement adding in the next few hours! BTT

It might help but I think it is more likely it will be a problem with the bridge rectifier in the power amp section… there are some great resources on that in the Marshall forums (was a common problem)

Hi Gerry - it does look a lot worse than it is… structurally, there was one major failing in the last annual inspection - the front cross brace. I cut that out and welded a new one on - as you can imagine, the inspector then went boogaloo with the fine tooth comb looking for anything else, and had to concede that whilst it doesn’t look great (perhaps the understatement of the year!) it is structurally sound… I wouldn’t let my son drive it else! The exhaust also looks terrible, but is mostly surface rust. On the repair, these clamps are more common on motorcycle exhausts I believe (because of the low profile). On the diag computer, I have been very happy with the CR-max… versatile, easy to use, and pretty cheap. Thanks for watching!

It really does! - as soon as you get over the thought that it must be really hard, it is basically just big boy Meccano! Aftermarket sensors are fairly cheap by the way - problem with breaker yard ones is that you don’t know what condition they are in… for a few quid more than the breaker would charge you get a perfect one with a warranty! Definitely give the fix a go though!

Yep - with so much info out there it is all to easy to forget that we all started somewhere - wish I'd been shown this years earlier! Thanks for watching!

Great question - it will be one of two things… either your tube is faulty, or it will be the bridge rectifier - I’d open with changing out the tube, and if that doesn’t fix it, switch out the BR (they were a known issue with some Marshall amps)

A great shout! One way to do this is to draw the outline of the door on a piece of card, and push the bolts through one by one as you remove them… that way you know exactly where they came from!

Hi Scott! It is an original mamod safety release valve; I made a new socket for it, but that is an original part straight from eBay… they go for about 12 to 14 pounds

@@bigtalltim wonderful! I want to try to make one with a condenser on the leaving side of the turbine. Thought that would be cool.

Great question and yes - to stop them falling off!… to explain: if they work loose the fuel delivery to that cylinder is cut off (remember that it is the injector that allows the fuel to squirt in from your high pressure diesel line… no power, no fuel, and you are running on 3 cylinders. A clip is built in so as to be sure that this doesn’t happen!

No worries and that is easy done… as an aside, after market colour matches are better than ever, so you may not need to get OEM paint 😉

@@bigtalltim i think its not oem paint in the first place. I scoured all my documents and they all say LC9Z not C9Z. C9Z isn't even a VW color. It's a seat color lol.... My painter must have used the wrong color code then told me it's the original. He said something like "it's C9Z, the original color of your car" so when all I found was LC9Z I just assumed he misspoke...big mistake i guess Grrr

Do you know the error code? That would suggest that either one of the sensors is dodgy and misreporting the pressure differential so it thinks it is always blocked, or your dpf is full of ash… either way, burning off isn’t going to help, but the ECU doesn’t know any better

@@bigtalltim There's no error code. Dpf is not blocked. Must be a sensor but they can't say which one. What do you think it is.

@@bigtalltim Any advice would be appreciated. I have been told I can remap ECU and disable the regen but not sure tbh.

@ozhoneybadger I suspect that you are backed up with ash… you could do worse than to try a can of the stuff that dissolves it. Certainly with the cost of diesel, you don’t want to be leaving a smoke screen behind you everywhere you go! Ps. Not sure where you are, but in some locations a dpf delete is illegal and an immediate annual inspection fail

@@bigtalltim The DPF has been cleaned out via regen the soot went from 99% to 5% so its not that.

Hi - this is hard solder (I believe 4% silver) so low grade silver solder, but is not “normal” solder… basically, it is fine as long as you don’t burn dry and I wouldn’t fancy using it over a more aggressive heating element than the meths burner - like a gas burner for instance. Usually I braze boilers using map gas and hard brazing sticks as you’ll see a few of my vids which is certainly recommended

@@bigtalltim Great! Thanks for the response and the video

It’s a great question, but that is something I can’t really tell you - reach out to a local auto parts specialist and they should be able to advise options… worth checking the dealership also… will be more expensive, but will at least give you an idea

My pleasure - thanks for watching!

You are very welcome - and thanks for watching!

My pleasure- thank you for watching!

Great question - so… yes, this will be the same with the tdi. The esp light probably indicates a bad abs sensor (by far the most likely cause) and will stop calibration from working. the lack of calibration in turn will light up the steering wheel warning light without any noticeable difference in steering response. You need to fix the esp issue, then do this procedure to clear both warning lights. Thanks for watching!

Hi - this has been a common question. It is a solvent - it is distilled turpentine, and refined linseed oil used by artists to thin oil paint. I do not know of a substitute that will be safe on plastic and importantly, that will dry - it is very important that this dries, or road dust will stick to your bumper which would be a big mess. Just go to an art store and they should be able to sort you out no bother

yep - I had the same in my 04 S60... just a part of the stereo system - should be held in place with 3 pegs as I recall... watch out - they can get pretty brittle over time!

You are very welcome - thanks for watching!

Cheers - and yes… the only time you need to touch the door card for a window related issue is to change the motor if it has failed. Thanks for watching!

You are very welcome - thanks for watching!

Thank you - and you are very welcome… I’m really glad it was useful!

You are very welcome - it’s a tricky little sucker to find that part!

You are very welcome - thanks for watching! It was the 163 (2.4 D5)

You will need to fix the abs issue - most likely a sensor has failed… as with many of these calibrations, they only work if the system is in a good state of health

My pleasure and many thanks! Yes… low voltage can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins - great to hear you got sorted, and thanks for watching!

First guess would be fuel starvation. Check that the fuel lines are very well sealed and that the fuel return lines are connected. After that, check the electrical connection is firmly clicked in place - it can’t be much else!

Hi - not in so far as I am aware… as it is a basic safety feature, I can’t think of any standard equipment that would achieve that result; a tuning shop may be able to assist, but it is a fairly bad idea on safety grounds so they may not want to assist - steering and brakes are two things that you don’t want to take any chances with!

Great question, and in my case no. The crazy temperature was reported on the data stream in my diagnostic computer; the dash showed approximately the correct temperature.

I believe that the sensor clip can be accessed in the xc90 in the same way as the v70 - check this out: ruclips.net/video/xzyTvZTU9_Y/видео.htmlsi=3paJENEZHVUOXtT8 You definitely do not need to drop the fuel tank!

You are very welcome - let us know how it goes!

They really are - hang on to that thing… they are coming back in popularity so won’t lose value, and they really do sound superb - very much the sound of the 90s!!

All cars light the dashboard warning lights for a short time when you turn the ignition on - to let you know that they work! If you keep the ignition on, they don’t go out - until the engine turns on… I think your battery/starting issue was not connected to this light in your dash - I’m not an expert on Suzuki’s but what I will say, is that all makes and models of cars are different and you can’t really compare them… the age is important too - bottom line, issues in a elderly VW will be very different to a fairly young Suzi!

Unfortunately I no longer have access to that vehicle so can’t check with a mutimeter, but yes I believe so

This is where you need to use the pliers and spanner to separate the two halves of the connector just in front of the spreader - 36:01 you really have to force it!

Muchas gracias!

Check for other trouble codes - it is most likely that you have an abs issue, or the fluid level is low… the yellow light does more than just lost callibration

Ok… you’ve got me intrigued! Weird set of symptoms, so I usually open with looking for electrical gremlins… maybe not condensation from cold, but have you driven through any water recently?

It is the right question! It was Sunday, and I didn’t have any in stock - replaced with new ones off camera

You are very welcome - an easy job once you’ve seen it done… just take your time, and let us know how it goes!

You are very welcome - an easy job once you’ve seen it done… just take your time, and let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim hi Tim I striped the brakes down today and loosened the adjuster I have also ordered some new shoes hopefully this will fix the hand brake

@damstv8717 if the cable is moving freely in the plastic sleeve, it really is that simple!… just remember to use it, or it will be just the same in a couple of years…

Great question… ok - 2 things. You say your battery is fine, but if it has a cell that is just about ok for now, but on the way out, the load under starting may be enough to tip the balance. Get it professionally tested - that’s the obvious one. On the error code, that relates to steering motor current. The rack itself rarely goes wrong on these cars, so it is probably the harness or “loom” - maybe a bad connector, that is further affected by morning condensation… I’d recommend going through the connectors one by one with some contact cleaner… if I was a betting man, I’d put my cash on it being the battery though

@@bigtalltim Thanks so much for your reply. I did get the battery tested, they said it was ok. I checked what I could re the power assist plug and wires coming in and out of them. I spoke to two mechanics, both of them said it was likely the steering rack, although as you said, these racks seldomly fail. My Mk5 has only done 142,000 k's. I'll ask the mechanics to test connectors and loom before doing the rack and hope that this is the issue. Thanks again for getting back to me. Much appreciated. PS:, The red wheel warning light came on two weeks ago. It was taken to a service centre. They said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They could see the error code in the log, but the problem had seemingly fixed itself. I drove the car for another one and a half weeks with no issues whatsoever. That would suggest that, as you say, it's not the steering rack, and more likely to be electrical? Aside from that and what you have mentioned, is there anything you think I need to say to the mechanic? Thanks again, I just subscribed!

@joshjoshspangler Hi - no worries! A side question: have you driven through any deep water? (Again, this would point towards electrical if so…) Regarding talking to a mechanic about it, just keep to the known issues and hard facts and don’t be offended if the mechanic takes it with a pinch of salt! it is always easier to run with the symptoms and facts and methodically work through the troubleshooting list double checking everything that has been “ruled out” by someone else anyway. That said… The racks *are* pretty much bullet proof, and the job is super easy so if they come in with a quote for more than a couple of hours, they either don’t know VWs or they are being overly cautious - neither of which would fill me with confidence! Tell them you’d prefer a reconditioned rack to save the cost of a brand new unit too - they so rarely go wrong that it’s a pretty safe bet. Good luck!

@@bigtalltim Hello Thank you again! No, I haven't driven through any water and the car is parked in a garage every night so morning condensation is not a problem. Plugs/connectors look clean and dry. Battery has a built in "Good, not so good and replace" gauge which is in the green. Having said that I've put the trickle charger on it just to completely rule out the battery as the problem. Fuse box and connections are corrosion free, dry and tight. I'm going to have to flat bed it into a mechanic so I'll let you know what they find. Thank you so much for your advice and getting back to me. Amazing. :-)

@joshjoshspangler my pleasure! By the way - the thing with batteries is that one cell of the bank of cells that make up the battery (there is usually 6 each of which produces 2.1v at full charge) can be on its way out, but still have enough juice to report that the battery is healthy (over 12v)… the issues come when that same battery is under really heavy load - like when it is turning the starter motor; at that point the voltage can drop to a level that causes electrical gremlins - I’d be really interested to know what they find!