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Good stuff - glad it was useful, and thanks for watching!

Great question, and yes - though the process is slightly different for seats. I’m not an expert, but have previously looked up what you need to do for another subscriber… try this - you need to do each step in the exact order and the direction and time is really important to set the steering limit stop position in a Seat: (With the Engine running) Center steering wheel (±10°) and hold it centered for 5 seconds. Turn steering wheel completely to the left and hold it there for 10 seconds. Turn steering wheel completely to the right and hold it there for 10 seconds. Center steering wheel (±10°). Switch OFF engine and ignition. Switch ON ignition. Wait 5 seconds. Steering Assist Warning Lamp should turn OFF. If it doesn't, perform a short test drive. Let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim Thanks for the quick reply - will try it out this evening!

Cool - I have not done that myself, so very interested how it works for you! Those are the procedures from a couple of workshop sources for an older seat Ibiza…

In a word, yes… steam as a way to power cars is not as daft an idea as it may appear - just out of fashion. Check out the Stanley steamer… 127mph in 1906 was not to be sniffed at!

Hi! It is the second… each manufacturer will have a slightly different approach. Bottom line, there are a couple of things that need to be in place for the hum cancelling to work - the north up / south up magnetic orientation, and the direction of the windings themselves. The core design of a humbucker is basically two separate coils placed close together within the pickup body; how those pickups are connected in the control circuitry doesn’t matter so much… it is the physical winding direction and magnetic orientation that gives the hum cancelling effect. In a normal humbucking pup one coil has its magnets oriented north-up, while the other has them south-up, creating opposing magnetic fields. When the signals from both coils are combined, the electrical noise picked up by each coil is out of phase, effectively canceling each other out - as long as the signals both land in the same circuit… If you sent each signal to a different amp, it wouldn’t hum cancel - they need to be combined into one signal for the destructive interference effect to do its magic. Given that the magnetic polarity and windings will be the same in each scenario, if it worked in series it will work in parallel and vice versa. The coil split will however be subject to hum, as the second coil which would provide the necessary reversed signal to cancel out the background interference is absent… hope that helps!

@@bigtalltim I think so.. just to confirm, is it fair to say that the hum picked up by a (single) coil is the same no matter which direction the current is running through the windings?

From an audible (when amplified) perspective, yes… from an electrical perspective, it is the mirror image of the sine wave if the winding is reversed - so, it would make a difference which of the coils you isolate if you are running with this switch for each of a pair of humbuckers, and when using both pickups together. Out of phase, the two single coils would hum cancel… in phase, normal single coil service would be restored!

@@bigtalltim thanks for taking the time to explain

Not usually - although esp (which can be abs related) sometimes triggers it. Electronic Power Control issues are usually as a result of a dodgy engine speed sensor, brake light switch, maf sensor, cruise control switch or throttle system… definitely one to plug in to a diagnostic computer - that will spell it out!

@ so EPC steering symbol warning what might be the issue in most cases.

The diagnostic computer will tell you exactly what the issue is… better to not just load the parts cannon! in my limited experience, it was the brake light switch both times…

Great to hear it was useful, and thanks for watching!

Glad I could help - Have a great day!

Nicely done - and thanks for the write up… hugely appreciated! Glad this vid was useful, and thanks for watching!

Cheers - great to hear it was useful, and that the format hit the spot!! Thanks for watching!

You are very welcome - and thank you for watching!

Good stuff - glad it was useful, and fair play for getting it done yourself! Jobs like this are often daunting, but when you get into it, never as terrifying as they first appear! Thanks for watching!

Yes - it sounds like the gearing in your winder motor has failed… if the old regulator had fully seized, it may have broken some teeth from a cog… that would mean that the electrical bit spins, but can’t transfer the energy to the mechanism that holds the glass

It is - it machines like a super hard hard wood

I used a rattlecan of hammerite smooth blue I think… there are some good enamel sprays also that get close

Exactly - yes. Those materials are refined to ensure that they dry - something we definitely want here, as road dust sticking to the plastic would look terrible!

@bigtalltim thanks, and I assume when they dry, it's safe to use car shampoo during carwash?

@ absolutely - this is not a cover up product… it actually restores the surface of the plastic

@@bigtalltim thanks man, it's a big help.

Weird! Did you clear out the DTCs relating to the ABS? The electronic brake force distribution on later models will likely be connected...

No, i didn't my volvo is xc90 2005 ​@@bigtalltim

Cool - then clearing those DTCs should clear both lights! Any aftermarket diagnostic computer will be able to do that… fingers crossed!

My pleasure - glad you got sorted!

Hi - not sure to be honest! This process is for VWs, but I’ll bet there is a similar method for seats… my advice is to get on the owners forums and do a search for steering angle calibration

@bigtalltim i tried this and dont work for Seat Leon

Ok - not giving up hope... I've done some digging and there is an alternative procedure - you need to do each step in the exact order and the direction and time is really important to set the steering limit stop position in a Seat: (With the Engine running) Center steering wheel (±10°) and hold it centered for 5 seconds. Turn steering wheel completely to the left and hold it there for 10 seconds. Turn steering wheel completely to the right and hold it there for 10 seconds. Center steering wheel (±10°). Switch OFF engine and ignition. Switch ON ignition. Wait 5 seconds. Steering Assist Warning Lamp should turn OFF. If it doesn't, perform a short test drive. Let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim but does it solve my problem or just will of the llamp ?

Both - the method shown in this video is for VWs, but that alternative is for Seats. That should recalibrate your sensors, which will make the light go out

Ouch! Not as easy a fix as it seems! Yep - high temp (I think it is called “262”) loctite is a must as well as a new sleeve! Don’t forget the driver - basically a profiled punch to tap it in. When installed, the sleeve can be exposed to coolant in some vehicles… not using loctite in addition to the interference fit of the sleeve and/or not driving it in cleanly could result in a major coolant leak.

Thank you.will do. it too me 3 days to get the injector out. im also seeing other fatalist comments that say that if i didnt disconnect the battery prior to disconnecting the injectors then they wont work. also, im supposed to replace the yield torque threads that hold the injector in place. supposedly you cant restretch them so they will fail and cause leakage.i dont want to touch them as they look like brittle metal that will snap. Are those 2 points true?

With later models (mk6 onwards) it can be necessary to reintroduce components to the ECU, but with a mk5 or earlier you should be fine… on the injector restraining bolts, yes… they are stretch bolts and must be replaced each time - there is always the possibility that they will shear off in the head and be a pain to remove… not worth the risk for a few quid!

Thanks! Yes its a 2007 berlingo multispace . Ok ill risk it for a biscuit and leave the stretch bolts. I really appreciate your help.

No bother - not an expert on Citroens, but most diesels operate in a similar way… my advice is definitely to replace everything you can with fresh… there’s no economy to be found if you have to do the job twice! (And extracting sheared bolts from deep in the head is a hellish job!) good luck - let us know how it goes!

My pleasure - a little detail, but especially with single coils it makes a big difference! Thanks for watching!

Great question - I’ve just had a look at that diagram you mention… it is a slightly different way of achieving the same effect; whilst in mine the single coil sound is achieved by making the signal path for one of the two coils hit a dead end, theirs appears to isolate one of the coils by connecting both ends of that coil to ground. Either will work - as long as there is not a complete circuit, the signal cannot flow and only the other coil will work. Re switch type, bottom line as long as you know which of the four wires are which (the manufacturers colour list gives you that), the wiring is a straight mirror image from type one to type two… ps. for the record, my type is easier to wire - diagonal jumpers are a pain!!

Thank you for the clear explanation. Your way makes more sense to me from a flow path perspective so I’ll definitely do it your way when my components arrive.

Hi Michael! It is likely that the low battery state (even if not completely drained) will be responsible for the ECU forgetting the steering calibration which will result in this warning light. An easy fix using this procedure!

No worries! - thanks for watching!

Cheers - and no bother… easy when you know how! Thanks for watching!

The engine is on, but the car stationary while you go from lock to lock… the only time you actuallly move is at the end when you return the wheel to the middle and drive slowly in a straight line

Great question! In a word, yes… you need to get all old waxes or polishes that have been used off - give it a good scrub with dish soap and a bristle brush and you should be fine! If it has never had a product applied, you don’t need to but getting the road grime off will improve the penetration of the oil

@@bigtalltim Thanks Tim, yea I have read all the comments and no one asked this question lol, very appreciate your quick response mate, I have 07 VW transporter to dress up for sale, this will help heaps.

@@bigtalltim Hi Tim, I think I have one more question which can't find anyone has asked, can I use Mineral Turpentine since it is way cheapper, any down side of it, love to learn things. Thanks again!

Hi - this has been quite a regular theme in the comments… I can’t speak to using other ingredients because I never have; the purpose of the turps is to thin the oil so that it can penetrate the surface, and then to flash off… other solvents may be too aggressive and damage the surface and other oils may remain sticky - which would be a disaster with road dust sticking to it. Using other ingredients is not recommended, but if you experiment (and as you should with all products anyway) test in an inconspicuous area first - like the inside of the bumper. One final thought, is that you really don’t need much - a little goes a very long way, so a tiny bottle of the real stuff won’t break the bank!

Great question - yes it does; the power steering being active is important - and the driving in a straight line bit at the end is critical for older models

@hettdizzle - good old fashioned bristle brushes hold more of the oil in each pass so you spend less time dipping the jar, but not a bad shout on quicker coverage with a larger brush! Thanks for watching!

not sure on that, but I do know that (rather unexpectedly) you can in fact buy a replacement for just the sensor itself (without the plastic plate) from a well known online crafter marketplace! look for seller ABHNStore... they have loads listed for about a tenner. Not much of a saving compared to 17 quid for the OEM sensor mind you, so probably not really worth economising - the job to replace will be the same either way

My pleasure! I really must publish the other vids in this series…

Good stuff! I didn’t have the option of a longer belt due to limited aftermarket suppliers so had to make do with the cable tie trick… the belts do stretch marginally during their service life, so keep an eye on that tensioner being at its other extreme and the belt slipping in a few years (or if it gets wet) but you should be fine! Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful!

Not stupid at all - hats off to you for refusing to give up… and let’s do everything we can to keep her away from the scrap heap! Yes… it sounds very like the tensioner is not sufficiently separated - definitely start with that! Once you have the circlip reinstalled you really have to force the two halves apart in order to apply enough tension for the brake to work. Watch from 36:00 - it’s a weird mechanism!

I’m afraid I have no experience with seats, but from what you describe, those symptoms would definitely register a diagnostic trouble code on the engine control unit… a code reader will spell out for you what is wrong - and they really aren’t very expensive

I have read it out it says rear wheel sensors and for the steering comes dasboard cluster

Ok… I don’t think the 2 things are connected. A bit of research on seat steering issues has revealed that there is a known issue with the electrical steering pumps - if water gets in, you can get intermittent problems. Often though, fixing this issue is as simple as changing the fuse that supplies the power steering pump! Sometimes fuses fracture etc, and low voltage can cause all sorts of weird issues. On the ABS, if you have any issues with one or more sensors, the whole system will fail to function so lockup is to be expected - you need to sort those rear sensors! Hope that helps!

Cheers Joe - will remember that next time... Not a job I have had to do too many times on the P2... it's usually the front ones that get destroyed by Northern Irelands roads!!

Many thanks - great feedback, and much appreciated! Glad it was useful!

That’s the one! Thank you so much for finding that - it had dropped off Amazon for a while so I killed the original link, but I’ll stick it back in! Cheers

Is a great question! Check this vid from about 45 seconds in - ruclips.net/video/Tzkldi-3nWI/видео.htmlsi=qYMEidPqxe6W7GaH I explain the inspiration for the project - the steam roller is a great starting point and surprisingly historically accurate!

Glad it was useful! Thanks for watching!

With a modern car, just pick up a cheap code reader - the engine control unit will likely have a stored DTC (diagnostic trouble code)… let us know the code and I’m sure we can figure it out!

@ thanks for your reply. I did check with my OBD scanner but no code comes up. Not sure if more advanced scanner is required or not

Possibly… you did mention that the fault was intermittent - it could be that it won’t capture a DTC until the car has been through a number of run cycles (Google “pending codes”) a good reader is a valuable investment… to your earlier question, if it is the yellow light rather than red, check the power steering fluid reservoir level - it could be that your intermittent fault is as a result of a very nearly (but not completely) low fluid level; if you park on a hill, the sensor might be dry, which could initially register as empty and trigger the light, but the sloshing around as you drive might then register as ok thus preventing a code being logged… let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim Hello to update, my Steering Wheel pump was faulty and I had it replaced. The problem is solved and I got my power steering back, however, the amber light is still on my dashboard. Any idea why the light is till there and what can I DO to remove it? My mechanic says, it because the sensors are not reading.

Did you try this process starting both ways? With the golf, you generally have to turn right first and hold for a full 5 seconds (ideally a little longer just to be sure) then go left for 5 seconds… sometimes it takes 2 repeats - so right, left, right left… then you have to drive slowly forwards. Not enough time at the extremes, or going too fast in the straight line will invalidate the calibration. There are 2 other things that it could be: if you have an abs fault, that can invalidate the procedure or if the steering angle sensor (the bit your mechanic alluded to) is broken (not uncommon) it could be that you need to replace that also. I’d check for abs codes before loading the parts cannon, but the steering angle sensor is prime suspect here I think if the calibration process will not work

Great question! - I have never tried this with internal plastics… I’d advise against it as the smell of turps is pretty strong, and I couldn’t be sure that it wouldn’t go sticky with the internal heat of the car in summer…

That may be a simpler answer than you are expecting… you’d need the manual to be sure, but I recall that with mine the clean/crunch/overdrive only works with the selector button on the front of the amp on clean…

It is indeed 50/50 - BUT that is for the specified ingredients… now, if you are using slightly thicker oil or slightly less refined turps it may vary, but isn’t going to be that critical - the turps just thins the oil to a viscosity where it can soak in to the plastic surface layer and mostly flashes off anyway. Aim for the consistency of water, or it may not soak in. You will need to experiment and test in that inconspicuous area of course. I’d advise against coconut oil as it may go rancid… linseed oil is super easy to find

Not a stupid question at all! On most models it is as simple as pushing the fx mix to 10, and plugging in a chain from guitar into pedal (chorus, distortion etc) and pedal into amp as usual, but instead of putting the output jack from the pedal in to the front, you plug in to the effects return in the back panel…

@bigtalltim Oh, that's it! Thank you. I couldn't wrap my brain around how you could plug into the front and and into the back at the same time. I have the opportunity to pick up an older Marshall Valvestate VS232 for a decent price because it is making a screeching sound supposedly and I have a feeling it might be the tube. That would be an easy fix.

@bigtalltim Except I just realized that that amp does not have an FX loop, so I can't test it that way

Highly likely that it is the tube - this one was doing exactly that (high pitched screeching) and it really is as easy as replacing the tube! Even without the opportunity to test the power amp I’d take a punt for the right price… what you describe is absolutely typical of a tired tube… Good luck - let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim Funny thing is, I got it home and spent about 30 minutes just cleaning the tolex and then turned it on and -- no screeching (so far). I'll probably change the tube anyway - and I thank you very much for this video. Don't know what I'll find when I open it up, but, so far, so good.

Languages are not my gift unfortunately, but if you turn on captions there is now a translation option! Just go to the settings menu, click on captions, and the bottom item in the list should be auto translate… a super useful feature that has been added recently!