Видео

@@anatoliygolub5609 if you connected the red and black wires to an outlet, then, yes, you would have a 20-amp, 240-volt outlet, which does exist but is a rarity. Of course, 240-volt outlets look different than a typical 120-volt outlet in order to prevent you from frying your TV! Haha

@@wardmontgomery9259 It was a way to kill 2 birds with one stone. I feel better not drill holes in my house’s roof. Thanks for watching!

@@reidthemanual I agree - I can tear off the old front porch and extend the new carport out into the front yard (12 acres) and set up for the next owner to remodel into a large family room ! Electric rates have doubled here in Northern California in the last 4 years ... with two increases this year. 50+ years of carpenter experience.

@ With that much experience, this project should be a breeze for you! Best of luck to you. 🙂

To be clear, this setup is perfectly safe (grounds and neutrals bonded properly) and fine for existing construction. MWBCs are just something to watch for in the field. I respect your views and am actually “one of those people” who wants to do everything by the book and spare no expense to do so. That was my plan. Without recounting the months-long saga that was going on with this project, let’s just say that sometimes we have to humbly check our perfectionism at the door. It’s a long story…

@reidthemanual I have an electrical license, you don't so whatever you think and say is irrelevant.

@ I respect your opinion and am glad you care about the code.

@@reidthemanual dudes right, you do need a disconnect outdoor, the way you bought the wires in the top of the panel is wrong.plus no ground rods or water bond , but you dont need ark fault breakers unless you move the panel more than 5 feet, wich you didnt. but county aproved so job well done! ps i like the future junction box 👍

@lostonlongisland6845 Thanks. The county and utility were steering the ship here, so I went along with what they requested. Outdoor disconnects are not yet “code” in my county. The box is grounded though via a ground rod under the meter socket (ground wire is in the small conduit leaving the meter socket).

Yeah, I should not have even mentioned the word “ground” because it wasn’t relevant to the conversation. I should have said “the green line is representing the neutral wire” or, even better, used some other way to represent a white wire on white paper. In reality, though, the ground and neutral wires are both shared in MWBCs and do have similar routing. I showed examples of 2 and 3 conductor Romex in the longer video for those unfamiliar with them.

@@tundraboomer3372 That is my takeaway, yes.

@@coxrockin874 thankfully, the service line (from the transformer to my meter) and meter socket were already rated for 200A. What’s been your experience with Siemens? I did buy a Siemens PR panel because it had tin-plated copper bus plates and would allow me to reuse some of my old breakers. If I could go back, I would consider going with an Eaton CH panel or Square D QO panel (arguably the Cadillac) and just dealing with the higher breaker costs.

@reidthemanual I'm talking about from your first means of disconnect to your interior panel.

@ my area does not require an external disconnect, so there is nothing but copper between my meter and my main breaker (in my garage as shown in the video).

@reidthemanual Yes, but you have 100 amp service that only requires a #4 CU or a #2 AL, so if you move up to a 200 amp service you need a 2/0 CU or a 4/0 AL from your first means to your interior panel.

@@coxrockin874 oh! Yes, that #4 copper was upgraded. You are correct. Now everything is 200 amp rated from the pole transformer to my main breaker.

@@KILLERBLACK5000 while I cannot speak to your specific VIN number, my experience has been that some parts will be listed as “does not fit your vehicle” because those parts were not stock options on Interceptor Utilities. I always check compatibility for both “Interceptor Utilities” and the same year of “Explorer.” The online compatibility checkers are not designed to show you what can fit but rather what was originally on your make/model. They are helpful, but not perfect when you are looking to upgrade your vehicle.

I do have the wiring for the hood switch,I was about to or the security system now just didn't want to be wrong and I also work for a ford dealership.

@@KILLERBLACK5000 Nice! You should be in the same boat as me then. Being yours is a 2019, you may NOT have to have a tech enable the hood switch with IDS like I did on my 2016.

So I will purchase this system thanks will update you

@@rupe53 I’m really not sure, but the electrician used his Hydraulic press to make a 2” hole in the new box specifically to run the wires out the top… hopefully he would know.

Good observation, was Code at one time, not likely, now local code dictates. If I was replacing I would reccomend being seperated pairs of 2's even if extra cost to disperse heat.

@@reidthemanual well, there's a difference between knowing what you can get away with and what the actual code is. The first thing I see is too many wires so it exceeds the "fill rating" for the space, which some inspectors might pass if it's just a hole with proper bushings.... and its' all Romex. If there's any length of conduit then all bets are off and fill rate is certainly an issue. OTOH, NEC says Romex needs to be secured with a proper clamp where it goes through the box... and no more than a pair of Romex cables per clamp... AND... the clamp must be rated for a pair. All in all, it would have taken 10 minutes extra to clean that up and use the smaller holes. Also, much easier to trace out problems in the future when it's neat and tidy.

@@goodtimes2654 yes, the fill rate is about the potential heat buildup with too many wires in a small space. That's why there's code on it.

@@rupe53you bring up some good points. There is no conduit in the wall (it’s just a bushing), so heat buildup should not be a problem. However, you’re making me wonder about strain relief… I always secure Romex next to connections, but I’m not sure what the electrician did for strain relief in this box install…. That definitely would have been a reason to use the small knockouts and clamps. I’ll have to take another look and appreciate you taking time to share.

@@jeffhall3242 What more do you think needs done? The service line and meter socket are already 200A.

@@joelewis9433 They stayed in place! Frog tape is good stuff. Stick adhesive side to adhesive side and you’ll not be easily getting it apart.

Haha. I’m definitely in the USA. How would have done it?

@@reidthemanual It's a good, clean job

​@@reidthemanualNo romex connectors?

Hiring work done always feels too expensive, but I was thankful for the help.

It’s been interesting to hear how people use these ratchets. You work on packaging machinery?

@@reidthemanual yes sir/maam, those machines have a lot of tight places I’m going to see how this works out for me. I picked one up this morning. Luckily I’m not bad at my job so no machines have gone down today. 🤣

@Leland387 Cool. I used to buy paper soup cups and lids from International Paper, so can appreciate a well-constructed container. Best of luck to you, and thanks for sharing!

@@reidthemanual if you’re ever in Texas and have community coffee from bigger gas stations that comes from us. But thanks for the talk. Happy holidays

@@richardcook1480 you’re absolutely right. I would guess that most spin-on filters are NOT able to be pre-filled due to orientation, but when they are, it’s a great practice to do it. This applies to oil, fuel, and any other fluids.

I had read that the tie bars were somehow insufficient. Do they behave exactly the same as a purchased dual-pole breaker?

​@@reidthemanual tie bars are sufficient in this application, however I would still install a two pole breaker personally. That way later down the line you don't have a handyman removing the tie bar and potentially putting himself in danger.

Thankfully, the service line and meter socket were already rated for 200 amps.

Correct. The hots were being breaker-ed independently rather than being safely tied together. I posted a longer video explaining why that matters.

Unless you have a Murphy switch (seen on some industrial engines), I’m pretty sure an engine will be allowed to start without any oil at all. On trucks with oil pressure gauges, it can take a couple of seconds after the engine fires for the gauge to show pressure. All to say that there is no guarantee that an engine has lubrication upon start up. You may get a light on the dash after some time without oil pressure, but I think your engine is in trouble by that point. The only common example I can think of is related to modern Subarus that had severe (fatal) oil burning issues. Many testimonies said by the time the low oil pressure light went on there was no oil on the dipstick. Oil pressure diagnostics can be shockingly insensitive.

@@TheTooGrayson haha. You’re not wrong. Still, the old panel is “100-amp” because the main is rated as such. To be clear, the main reason for the upgrade was for more circuits (I did not want to install a subpanel).

If you are saying that I should not have replaced the single-pole breakers with dual-pole ones, please give some specific reasons why.

To replace this panel, my utility had to shut off power to my house, but they wanted me to have the work done and inspected in 4 hours or less. I wasn’t confident I could get that done if I encountered any problems, so I hired help. It was a good thing I did! (See subsequent videos)

Didn't want to burn his house down?

That’s awesome. How did you evaluate a reduction in carbon build up?