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You’re welcome! I don’t know how long it will take to build up carbon again, but I would assume it should last about as long as the first time. I haven’t had any issues since making this video back in February, but hopefully it will last a decade or more before having to clean it again.

@@FixandMaintain Thanks a lot for your prompt answer. All best wishes !

Yes! Definitely sounds like actuator issues. There's three actuators behind the glove box, and one (driver's side temp) under the steering wheel, but with how close they are to each other, it's hard to tell which one it is just by the clicking. It's probably "fixing" itself when it finally grabs a tooth on one of the gears and allows it to work one time, but the gear is still stripped and the actuator will need to be replaced.

I believe it does. It looks like most stores haven’t updated their compatibility lists in a while, since it’s an older item. But I did manage to find one site that had it listed as compatible with your specific SeaDoo.

I believe #3 is the center cylinder on the back side of the engine.

Thank you! Glad to be able to help!

You’re welcome!

True. But I always ride in a freshwater lake that’s fairly deep. I can see keeping the plastic wear ring if you typically ride in areas that you might suck up junk into the jet pump, but also other manufacturers like Yamaha have metal wear rings that typically don’t ever have to be replaced unless it’s abused.

That’s great! You’re welcome!

Probably not. Does your model have dual zone climate controls?

@@FixandMaintain yes

Ok, it sounds like you will need to replace one of the temperature blend door actuators. The actuator I replaced in this video just operates the mode door.

I know there’s a lot of different models of these refrigerators, did the new board you bought have the exact model number of your fridge in the description? Does the compressor attempt to start up when it’s plugged in?

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome! Yeah, before I figured out the problem I was hoping my truck wouldn’t leave me stranded somewhere. I was amazed that it was such a simple fix.

This actuator should control those functions, but if it’s changing randomly, it may be a wiring or control dial issue rather than a bad actuator. I can’t say for sure, since I’ve never ran into that scenario, but I wouldn’t count on a new actuator fixing your issue.

@@FixandMaintain okay thank you. I guess it’s more of a sometimes when I select the front blow button from another setting then it’ll mostly do front and foot and sometimes it goes front and defrost. Like it’s getting stuck it a different selection. I don’t notice any noise as you mention though.

Thanks!

It happens, just gotta roll with the punches…and fix the chips before they turn into long cracks in the windshield!

Thanks!

That’s great! Yeah, definitely not the most convenient access for it. Glad to be able to help!

Thank you!

Haha, yes, that pulley was a pain to get back in. Even more aggravating when it looks like it should go back so easily!

You’re welcome!

Good luck getting the old one out without removing the studs…or you could remove the radiator to get enough clearance, but I’d prefer the former.

Most of mine lasted around 11 years, but one went out a bit earlier than that. There’s so many factors that go into it - is the vehicle parked outside or in a garage, how often are the actuators being used, etc.

Top end was maybe 1-2mph, but takeoff was a substantial improvement

Thanks. I have a few other videos coming up before I’ll do the brake fluid on the Titan. I don’t drive it much, and changed the fluid in it fairly recently, sorry.

Thanks, glad to be able to help! My bike is a bit older than that (2013 with 22k miles). I have a few more projects coming up that I’ll be filming soon - swingarm chain slide replacement and back tire change.

I believe you mean silicate free corrosion inhibitors, as referenced in 1-6 of the shop manual. But yes, I did make sure that was mentioned at 0:15.

You’re welcome!

Sounds like a good plan

Which part?

You’re welcome!

You are welcome!

Not with just the wear ring...but - I only noticed gains after replacing the impeller as well, since the previous owner had run the ski in shallow water and destroyed the outer edge of the stock impeller. All that to say, my situation was a bit different than replacing it if everything was fine to begin with.

Go for it! It’s great to be able to do your own maintenance on your car.

@FixandMaintain 🙏took about 15 minutes start to finish

I think you’re on the right track. A seized caliper piston would be my next place to look.

@@FixandMaintain thanks

You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help!

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome!

If you do put some dielectric grease on the boots, hopefully they will come off a bit easier next time.

Thanks! Yeah, that’s annoying when people try to interject a lot of personal opinion in a how-to video. My back tire is about to need to be replaced, so I’ll probably do a video on it as well. That and replacing the swing arm chain slide.

Thanks! That bull bar was already installed when I bought the truck, so I don’t know where it came from.

Do not apply torque to the hex screw side, only the nut side or else you could strip out the screw. Use a hex socket to hold the screw in place while tightening the nut. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a way to measure torque, since the spokes are in the way preventing a torque wrench.

You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help. There’s certainly a place for local shops, but I prefer to DIY as much as I can.

I personally would stay away from all the 2-stroke PWCs for a few reasons (fuel consumption, maintenance, power), but as long as it’s in good shape, I’m sure it would be fun to drive around out on the water.

There is, but it would require a bit more work than just replacing the broken actuator... You can take off the bad actuator, manually twist the door to the correct position, take apart the actuator, remove the broken gear, turn the output shaft on the actuator to match up with the input shaft for the door, reinstall the broken gear and put the actuator back together, reinstall the actuator and DON’T plug it in. But again, much easier to take out the bad actuator and install a new one all at once.

@@FixandMaintain I greatly appreciate your feedback. Yes, given what you've suggested I'll get a new and get to work. Thank you.

@@FixandMaintain what is the name of the part the actuator screws into? I'm pretty sure mine is broken or at least off track and thinking I should get a new one while I'm up in there

I'm guessing you're referring to "Nissan 27175-7S020 Bracket-Front Heater Unit"? That's the black plastic piece that the actuator attaches to that also keeps the white plastic "Nissan 27163-7S010 Lever-Heater Unit" from falling out of place.

@@FixandMaintain Thank you

Uh oh. Well, maybe you could find the missing screw with a magnet?

@@FixandMaintain actULE I luukd absolutely everywhere, & as gene wilder said in that deaf & blind movie with richard pryer, it was gone, I saw it fall, & the direction & speed it fell, but it was “😩GOOONE.. NOWHERE, ERASED FROM THE SERFICE OF EXISTENCE.. IT SIMPLY VANISHED!😳”.. so I grabd a couple from my other impala & flopd the thing in there, it didn’t work, 1 probly cause it didn’t work, & 2- because I lost my prestigious calibration instructions(imposdible to get, yet I lost it).. & 3- causa that blue 2Ndary clip gizmo on plug, I could not click it closd.. this was 1 of 3 a these I have lying around, & I think I’ll open them B4 scuffing up my hands installing thE other 2.. getting back to the beginning of this book, when the screw has simply vanished, I knew, actually I knew I was gonna lose it B4 I did, & after a Yl I knew I probly wouldn’t find it.. buuuuuuudt I also knew when I would find it, the second I stopd looking for it… so I headed off to work, & when I went over speed bump, ‘flump’ it blump flopd off & over it’s own invisible speed bump(basically ‘reformulated in2 existence’) & landed on floor, & I’m like yyyeeap, not srprIEzd

You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help!

Just how it should be!

Yes, the driver’s side actuator is for temp, assuming you have the dual climate version like in the video.

I can’t say for sure if the replacement switch will work on that particular model, since Nissan wants to sell the entire lock cylinder assembly instead of the switch by itself. But, it should be the same process as in the video to clean the old switch.

Uh oh. I think it’s mainly to keep the resin from starting to cure while it seeps into the tiny cracks of the bullseye chip. Then once it’s fully saturated, UV rays from the sun will cure it all at once.