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I checked ur videos. Theres no video after u replaced the pump lol so what was it?

100K miles equals how many hours of operation?

Good idea...just thought of an idea to make one without a m12 battery. hook it up to the battery on the atv. all my power equipment has battery tender connections, so i can just put the pump and a switch on a board with a battery tender cord powering it. Wonder if you could rig up an M18 / M12 charger / battery to run a 12 v pump. they have chargers that charge m12 and m18. and use the 120v cord (battery and corded - not at same time). The charger probably has some safety feature to bypass though

Awesome video. Great job

good video thanks

Bad explanation on why my brakes are not working.

We had this this weekend. Nice to know trailer wiring standards are such garbage. The fate of my family lies in a stupid 12v wire connection.

Leave the factory stuff there and just add the tube just incase your lift pump dies, you can still drive the truck to repair lift pump down the road.

Doesn't seem to bad, thanks for the video, going to sand and paint all these rock chips out.

I changed the high pressure pump. Still not wanting to draw fuel.

Hi I have the same problem have changed iac valve coil packs will stall in idle my fuel lines had been rotten would this go into the fuel pump I found lots of liner inside them small filter but never opened the pump maybe it could be clogged?

Great video!

Blows my mind that people pay actual money for these piles of trash.

Great video. To the point. Thank you!

AWESOME tutorial. No music. No intro nonsense or “like and subscribe” crap. Straight up the point! Love it!

Sweet thankful

Nicely Done! Great Lighting and Narrative! Mobile Camera angles and sizes of fasteners are extremely helpful in tight conditions and tool selection.. Great Job to you and camera crew.

Thank you

Good video thank you for helping me out

Why would you buy an electric start? Just one more thing to go wrong especially since they appear to have added compression bypass to make them super easy to start. My 82 year old twig thin father starts his own sled with a pull cord.

Just did this mod but mine pump so slow. Wonder if I got a bad pump

How long did it take to get the air out of the line, did you release it out of the Schrader Valve.

Is it wise to put an impact on your clutch Bolt seems that would be a lot of stress on the crank

very well done .....thank u👍

What do you charge for a service like this?

Is it true that a 2015 800 etec has oil lines that keep the crank bearings on the mag and pto ends lubed and isoflex regreasing is not necessary?

Ive got A 2012 skidoo tnt 600etec with 11,600 miles! Running strong to bad there isn't any snow. Yet!!!

What if there wasn’t any left in there and 15 mL did not cause it to come out the relief hole?

I'm kinda confused, you are recommending people get Candoo but isn't that a Torx Tuning device in the video?

Does this apply to a 2003 800 mxz?

How did you get brake off

This helps alot Im trying to get out my 800etec from an lynx 2011

Mine show they’re always on even when the pedals not pushed. Anyone know what that means.

How did you bleed the air out of the line

My clutch was stuck on tight. I used a map gas torch and puller. Thanks

Good idea. I just put a hose in the tank, run it to the jerry can and use the air hose and rag to pressurize the tank.

Bobby, I commend you for taking the time to properly gap your piston rings but I don’t think you positioned them correctly in the bore (vertical height wise) to get the correct reading buddy. You can gap a ring at the top of the bore but remember the taper will always be smaller (thus a tighter gap) lower in the cylider. Check that the gap should be measured with the ring positioned just above the ports.

I have a 2022 Gen 4, my primary was on there so tightly seized, most likely due to it getting very hot a few times riding in warm and slow tight tree riding. Other methods will most likely not work other than heat oxy/acety as you demonstrated and then pounding on the puller like you showed. I tried the water and Teflon tape, grease, lubed threads, puller and air hammer, puller and hammer. These methods will work for non-stubborn clutch. Oxy/acety is the key when this is seized on. The trick is to get that area as hot and fast (not cherry hot or even close but around 250-350F, I used a thermocouple accessory on a multimeter to check) and pound the puller so the heat does not continue to soak into the seal and bearing. You can pound through the small opening on the Gen 4 with a ball peen hammer. Ensure the puller is already in the there as tight as it can go without snapping or striping the threads. It will pop off when pounding with the heavy ball peen hammer Do not use propane or map gas as this will just get everything outside of the area to hot, the heat needs to be focused on the shaft housing where the belt sits. Once the clutch let go I checked how hot the shaft after clutch removal and it was not quite hand touch but close, so I used compressed air to blow over the shaft until it cooled and then cooled the clutch. I want to say a big thanks to guys like Bobby making life easier in the DIY world, thanks man. I also wanted to pass on my experience in my added techniques and hopefully it helps someone as well and give confidence that this can be done.

Vc tem bico enjetor pra veder

15 - 20mL of Iso?! My manual says 50 total. 40 on the front and 10 between the two PTO side bearings. I've got the crank case apart so I can get the rear side of the first bearing.

Check all pivot joints for bands to move freely

Noticed the Sturgis flag, glad to see you came to my home state to visit!

If youre pulling from a tank, throw an in line filter in that assembly.

So is a 2007 Ski Doo different? Another channel (Better than Bought) show a grease type fitting on the PTO side of a 2007. Do the 2008-2016 not have them. I’m no mechanic so appreciate your videos

gonna try this on my gf's sled this weekend. Man you make it look easy hahaha. Love how you don't beat around the bush and get us straight to the point

Just picked up a project sled, this answered a few questions for me so thank you!

I would add: Physical appearance. It's fairly obvious that sled was stored outside with the faded panels, leaves in engine bay, wrecked seat cover. One of the worst things you can do to a snowmobile is leave it outdoors for extended periods of time. Constant temp changes with moisture forming and evaporating and UV light will deteriorate the sled so much faster. And mice like to have parties in them, too. Looked like the front end took a light impact. Someone probably ran into the left A-arm (From behind) with another sled as it appeared to be bent forward. With almost 6k miles, the engine is questionable at best. You're looking at potentially big repair bills for engine, clutch maintenance / replacement, shocks, etc. Chain case maintenance looks to have been done a while ago. Who knows what the history / maintenance on it has been like. IMO - I wouldn't pay much for that machine and I'd actually probably pass even if it was a 'good' deal.

I have a dead m12 soldering iron. Could I take that apart and I guess just use the prongs inside of the handle that go into the battery into something similar like this?? Or is the PCB of the charger needed? Looks like you’re just tapping right into the 12v source ignoring the rest of the PCB.

Thank you Bobby - great explanation.

Thanks. Follow the wire and there’s the problem!