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Yes, auxiliary fans high speed function did not work, only low speed worked. Climate control unit was not wired correctly.

It’s bigger 6mm, found the hose online

Ideally they should be between the 85 and 100 mark, over its hard on the engine, just keep an eye on it.

@@mygermancars7264 Thanks a lot! 100 is the next line after the 80 with no marks on it right?

Never heard of that one? Maybe there’s stored codes? I would ask BenzWorld R129 forum, lots of of helpful folks there, register, always put your year and model in post, good luck.

I bought them on Amazon

Usually 1.5 idling 85c , replaced sensor a while back.

When I have to remove parts I clean and paint with High heat paint.

Got it for free from Amazon, I review items for Amazon they send stuff to me, review and keep the product, it's a cheaply made cover, you can see my review. www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1R721DN?th=1

Usually it’s the 02 sensor, that was on my 90 300SE and the 92 300E, if you search the net you can replace it with a early Mustang one, cheap about $30 instead of $90 for OEM In my experience with these cars it’s always emission related.

I got an 88’ 300E about a year ago, will be doing a whole tune up and vibrating dampener replacement which I hope isn’t too hard for me to do😅 but they do seem like smooth rides 😎

@@infiniteblessings6793 About the vibration dampener (aka harmonic balancer) . Despite what the MB manual says you do not need to remove the center bolt, actually you don't want to because that thing will require a 200 ft lbs of torque and locked transmission.

@@mygermancars7264 thank you so much for getting back . Would you say a 1990 mustang would fit ? Are you talking about splicing it ? Or do you have a specific year of the mustang

@@AlonSOAMAZING This www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZEJCY?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=mycars0c-20&linkId=360c7d0d3cca067fdfd1f5afa9759665&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

They were replaced a little while back.

@@mygermancars7264 Did it burn oil before that and if so how much per 1000 miles? Did it fix it? How much is it burning now? Mine burns around a quart per 1k miles, engine has no leaks at all. And also, did it idle smother with new lifters? Mine runs perfectly, except that the engine shakes ever-so-slightly at idle rpm. I am dealing with my m103 for years now and I can assure that everything else is top notch with the engine, but yet it shakes a little bit at idle. Cheers!

Burns a little maybe 1/2 qt in 6+ months, that’s pretty normal for these old cars, shaking at idle? Maybe motor mounts?

@@mygermancars7264 engine and trans mounts were replaced recently. No, I mean it misfires once in a while, I know for sure that injectors’ spray pattern at idle is perfect, and that the same amount of fuel goes to all 6 cylinders, there’s no problem with ignition either. All 6 cylinders have great compression within +-3% difference. And of course no vacuum leaks. I have replaced literally everything on this engine in 5 years I own this car, but it is misfiring at idle same exact way when Got it. That’s my last resort, I suspect that one or more lifter got stuck and do not compress like some of yours, which causes valves to open at idle more than they should. The car now has 144k miles, it had 114k when I got it.

Isn’t fun lol, stuck lifter you should hear it big time, maybe one is not holding its oil? On ours one day I heard tapping, it would come and go, on cold start it was very loud, that means it’s not holding it oil, some oil should stay overnight, so just replaced all and running diesel oil, it’s thicker and it stays in lifters overnight. Run your problem in BenzWorld, those guys have helped me for years.

No idea, it screws in fine, they all do over the years, but under pressure oil finds its way out, watched a certified Benz mechanic, and he used teflon tape.

@@mygermancars7264 thank you for fast reply. I’m trying to replace the OEM electric sensor with a mechanical gauge and I need to find the thread pitch to get an adapter to make it work.

That’s what I should have done long ago, but the purests on BenzWorld said keep it stock, they just don’t understand how hot it gets here!

@mygermancars7264 I used a pair of mishimoto 12 in fans and davies craig digital fan controller. Easy install and very reliable. You can program desired operating temp. I got tired of my car running hot and power loss due to fan. You don't realize how much power loss there is from fan till it's gone. I would never go back to original fan.

A little better but these cars are heavy, built like a tank, so not the best mpg.

I replaced that sensor about 4 times over the years thinking it was bad, after a lot of research I learned how to test them, turns out all four tested good lol.

These cars just run hot during the summer months, crazy system, I’ve replaced every part of cooling system and it still runs hot in stop and go traffic with AC on, the AUX fans high speed hack I did allows me to control them, turn them on with dash mounted switch, that. Brings temperature down in 30 seconds! I think installing electric fans instead of clutch fan would solve the issue permanently, all modern cars have that setup.

Going to get a electric fan sensor and replace it it say the fan should come on with the gauge half way up it all started making sense

@@jimmycarter9099 hope that helps you, on my 92 with the M103, the only time it starts getting hot is when using the AC , stop and go traffic, outside temps around 85F, the gauge starts going over the 100c mark which is 212F, that’s when high speed fan should kick in, to test the system, turn key to #2 position, engine off , hvac off, pull electrical connection at 2 pin blue sensor , high speed fan should activate, if does good, if it doesn’t, then you have to find out why, the signal wire goes to push button unit in dash, that unit sends signal to relay in fuse box, from there signal/power goes to ballast resistor by headlight, then to fans. High speed fan is critical to bring temperature down. That’s just a test for fans. The entire system has to be 100%, fan clutch has to be good, in stop and go traffic it doesn’t lock up and cool, it only locks up at 3K rpm when you’re driving, Mercedes did that so your not stressing engine and better mpg. Make sure your engine cooling system is 100%, coolant flow, electrical part of system, if using AC system right pressure’s, pressure sensors etc. As you can see it’s a pain in the ass to have it 100% lol. I spent over 1K getting it to 100%, but still where I live it can be 100F every day during summer time and this German car just doesn’t like it. If I had to do it over I would have removed the fan clutch, installed an electric cooling fan in its place, tied to sensor, that would be more forgiving and work like all modern cars.

Huh?? You use 2 wrenches to remove it. One as a counter hold while you unscrew the other. If you're still worried then just put some heat to it

@@brittanywright9646 Right. Two wrenches of course. Tried heating, cooling - no luck. There is a bit of rust there.

The 4 pin is for fuel management , the blue 2 pin is for AUX fans, wires for it go to climate control unit in dash, the signal then goes to relay that powers AUX fans , the pressure switch at receiver dryer turns on low speed fans when AC is on, I think there's also a high speed fan pressure switch there that senses really hot freon temps, it activates to protect AC system. Its a strange system for sure, if your low on freon the low speed AUX function won't work., if your fans are on from the get go, the 2 pin could be bad.

I got mine from ebay, there's one guy in europe that makes them, 3D printed. his name is Ákos Gönczi, www.ebay.com/itm/403004285733?fits=Model%3A500SL%7CMake%3AMercedes-Benz&epid=1928554901&itmmeta=01HWEQ8X16SKBZAYS2K33DCN92&hash=item5dd4ed6325:g:i28AAOSwoPFlnAM5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LAbu4rh1fRoTH5V8AD1g8dVbkd1EtB49b%2FhqF94jsirVM0FHnDoHVbOa8l0B0KzCfsDNAucwhwRpieN%2BApzJY6SCf5GyqWl%2BIU7T1573fbPN5rhVtIw1Xnn7%2Bk97dCV1x2--X8%2B91S0GDJx7PGWCKRbkT4Wlub3x4JJOdavTKWYmbFleg50tiieSqyUfceN42q8n9XhPy5n3F4jXb7avsOYyDrARQOmquWUZhXeKoYZXjYsvtEzvFC8UA--d1hw%2F9gsNOwToajrKAgKyyLfJaDoa1mQkQ%2FAxyZEvxt2qoxvknpKPLXocjV6wO3q0LnvgA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4NCj1-Nj

Search eBay, there’s a guy that makes the headrest gears and seat track gears.

Yeah, had a 91 300E and the bad 2 pin sensor did that.

@@mygermancars7264 i have an 260e 1991

You should be able to manually close front latches, if stuck, look down in latch, there's small moving part that free's the latch when pushed down , small screwdriver.

Thank you Sir! Last time I had the chance to work on it, I tried something different that sort, must have not pushed down enough on the part. Will keep posted 🙏

Thanks, I did replace the fan clutch , research showed that it doesn't fully lock up at idle, locks up at about 3K rpm, so when its 100F in stop and go traffic its just spinning doing nothing to cool engine lol, the aux high speed fan supposed to cool it down for idling in traffic, I put a switch on dash for high speed fan, boy does that cool it down fast!

Again, great stuff. Keep the videos coming!