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hansw33
Добавлен 1 июл 2007
CNC Lathe Part 11 X axis troubleshooting continues
This video I continue diagnosing and discovered another sensor that is not getting read.
Просмотров: 49
Видео
CNC Lathe Part 10 removing capacitors and reviewing drive PCB board
Просмотров 1087 месяцев назад
In this video, I showed the removal of the capacitors on the two drives and show the different components on the boards of the drives and have a few questions too. Thanks for watching. 
CNC Lathe part 9 Capacitor purchasing
Просмотров 337 месяцев назад
Based on your feedback my goal of replacing all capacitors has been quickly reduced follow along here as I talk about which ones I’m going to do first and where to buy them from and prices and the like also a little commentary on the encoder I need to buy two of those. 
CNC Lathe part 8 Capacitor replacement
Просмотров 2237 месяцев назад
In this video I discuss what I’m doing to remove capacitors and replace all of them because of the age of this machine. I have a couple questions about it towards the end of the video. I also have at the very end catalog pictures of the machine before I start taking it apart to do this tedious task. 
CNC Lathe part 7 Testing Encoder Sensor with Oscilloscope
Просмотров 1567 месяцев назад
Follow along with me as I test out the encoder module sensors to the spec sheet using anoscope. I think I have a bad X axis sensor. Please comment if you have any feedback. Please like and subscribe it helps out my channel. 
CNC Lathe Part 6 Parameters review
Просмотров 507 месяцев назад
In this video, I show the parameters executable file that’s on the diagnostic disk for the machine in here are many settings for the machine in the ability to go to a factory reset of sorts and all I’m doing here. This video is showing all of the content on the screens.
CNC Lathe part 5 Servo Encoder Sensor troubles
Просмотров 1587 месяцев назад
In this video on my quest to get my CNC lathe working, I swapped around the encoder sensors on the servo motors, and now nothing works all this was disappointing. Maybe I’m onto something? I did notice handling the motors that the encoder sensor does appear to be sensitive to movement. Perhaps there’s an issue there or I can get some replacement parts to test but it’s a little discouraging that...
CNC lathe part 4 motors brushes good or bad?
Просмотров 847 месяцев назад
In this installment of fix this old machine that needs TLC Travel along with me as I remove the brushes from the motors and help me come to a conclusion whether these are a problem. Thanks for watching and I hope that you’ll like and subscribe and share my videos with others.
CNC Lathe Part 3
Просмотров 1647 месяцев назад
In this video I will show why I think the x axis servo motor and drive are bad. Any comments welcome.
CNC Lathe part 2
Просмотров 4007 месяцев назад
In this video I start troubleshooting the X axis servo bad behavior and run into the Z axis giving me grief. Also go over the setup screens that are part of the operating system disk. Enjoy and please share any help if you have any.
CNC Lathe Rhino Robotics ST/7 Part 1
Просмотров 3827 месяцев назад
Follow along with me as I embark on a new adventure with an old CNC lathe built in 1994. This is a Rhino Robotics ST/7 model. In this video I give an intro into the machine and the Fanuc like control and then get to work trouble shooting the X axis servo motor.
Jeep Dana 300 Transfer Case Shifter Rail Fix
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.Год назад
Jeep Dana 300 Transfer Case Shifter Rail Fix
Muncie 4 Speed Manual Transmission Teardown and Review
Просмотров 8082 года назад
Muncie 4 Speed Manual Transmission Teardown and Review
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC belts and pulleys
Просмотров 2052 года назад
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC belts and pulleys
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC Z axis part 4
Просмотров 7203 года назад
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC Z axis part 4
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC project Z axis part 3
Просмотров 6923 года назад
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC project Z axis part 3
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC Z axis start
Просмотров 7023 года назад
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC Z axis start
Warn Winch 8274 Brake Assembly Teardown and Mods
Просмотров 19 тыс.3 года назад
Warn Winch 8274 Brake Assembly Teardown and Mods
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC motor mounts finished x and y axis
Просмотров 2533 года назад
Harbor Freight Mini Mill CNC motor mounts finished x and y axis
Yea. Good job man.
This is the first video I have seen that actually quantifies stiffness on any milling machine, small or large. Great work, very useful video!
That washer you made !!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice job!
Very thorough video needs editing.
Nice job and great explanations, thank you!
Awesome video! I would get a little fan to blow the smoke away during the cutting. I have 100's of thin 18 gauge 1" tubing to notch at the end of the tubing. I have been using a 1" endmill (on my mill) that works fine. Do you think a 1" angular cutter would work better? They are cheaper to replace than end mills when worn out.
Hard to say. If you’re trashing end mills then probably worth considering. The flood coolant is pretty nice and the higher teeth count would be good too.
If you stop this video at 32:05 you can see the small gear (the one with different pd on each side) really well. I may be mistaken, but isn't there supposed to be another identical gear on the pin on the opposite side? Two planetaries and the one sun gear in the middle? There's even a pocket for the missing gear on the piece in your other hand.
I see what you’re talking about and did notice that when working on it. Who knows whether that is intentional . Seems to work great as is.
There's definately more than 2/0. There's 3/0 and also 4/0
You're a brave man, really well done on that, it was quite the adventure in persistence.
More wire snags than a mile of fence. Good on you for persisting.
How do you move that feed rate switch on the quill? Does it have to be running? Do you pull the knob out and then move it? Ths one on this machine seems to be stuck. I have the power feed emgaged on the upper left side. And the right to left power feed works on the table. Quill lock is off and i can move it freely with the hand crank. I can get the crank by the forward and reverse power quil switch to spin but my lever to engage it to start the power feed also seems stuck. All the maintenance people that knee goe to run this are now gone. Trying to learn how to use it. I just cant get the feed rate lever to move or the power quill switch to start the power feed.
With mill off pull the knob and move it. May require rotating spindle by hand to engage gears.
thinking of doing this as well... any issues with the column warping after the slot? i just finished scraping, sort of not keen on doing it again? pretty annoying that the ribs only need the slightest touch to get the room... sigh... at least i know? probably do the slot, then use a fly cutter for that bit in the same setup. i can tell you, the ball nuts are pretty hard! and really, its either trim the nut a bit, or do this, take the corners off those ribs... doing the ribs gives a bit more playing area, seems the best option. meh. still just mucking around with the Y, lol. at least its a LOT nicer than it was with the original cncfusion kit i fitted years ago? fiddle fiddle, bind, grind, fiddle fiddle... no matter how hard one tried, was forever a pain in the butt. but now its scraped properly, and new ballscrews... just bolt it up tight and there you go... no grinding or binding. no wriggle in the saddle, either. yay! get the apron/way covers mounted next then i can at least see Y move with the stepper again... at least, oh my... after a weeks frustration as i attempt to get another PC actually operational. main reason its sat in the corner for the last 6 or more years... last PC blew up, (ok, it crashed for the umpteenth time and i attacked it with the remains of the last job it destroyed?) and yeah... parallel ports, windows, and not wanting to reinvest in certain things... like my gecko g540, mach3, etc... just give me XP and a parallel port and leave me alone! i want to machine things, not fight software.hardware, and dealing with all that BS... i really am sick of this "turn around and everythings obsolete" modern world syndrome... looked at linuxcnc (still doesnt fix the parallel port issue?) and even the download page makes no sense... "download this one. but dont run it, download this one instead!" but whatever you do it needs the kernel and blah blah blah blah blah blah... TLDR! yeah, i tried installing it, and ended up bricking the PC i had... that had win 10, and a pcie to parallel card that it wouldnt detect... just found an old girl that hopefully WILL accept this pcie card. wont know until... sigh... i go buy another keyboard/mouse and fire it up... *glares at last resort* usb breakout board that may or may not work... i dont know how people deal with all this BS these days, it drives me up the wall... again, i wanna machine things, not spend hours, days, weeks, learning to code this, install that, download there... it was EASY ten years ago!
I should check for column warp. Sounds like you’re having more fun than me!
Any chance you could send me a copy of those floppy disks I have the same lathe but no disk it would be a huge help and I’ll make sure it’s hosted somewhere so others can find it as well
How about buying a cheap surface plate and and a sturdy angle plate and bolting them together and mounting them to the collum from behind.
Not a bad idea
Why is every video of this boring head including tear downs??? Just bought one, and need to know.
Ha. Well mine was nasty dirty grease from age or whatever. Too precise to not have it operating with clean parts.
Do you know the lenghts of the ball lead screws for each axis? Ive been looking around but no one mentions the lengths of them.
Depends how you’re mounting them since this is all custom. I will be turning the ends down and will have a video on that. It’s definitely not a DIY beginner thing. I mean maybe someone has a kit or f you wanted to pay the premium for that but it’s never going to be as good as doing yourself if you have the capability like I do.
Thanks for a look inside the brake on tge warn 8274. I was able to open mine up and discovered it was in excellent shape. Now I have confidence it will not fail me when my cj5 needs it.
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I wonder if the motor (servo) is struggling because it's not seeing the load that it's tuned for.
Hello, I wanted to ask if you could help me sell me a copy of the boot disk.
If you give me a way to contact you maybe I can help you out
Hi hansw33, to be honest, it's a bit tough watching you troubleshoot the lathe's electronics without seemingly having the slightest idea what you're doing. Of course, it's perfectly fine to have no idea, and it's commendable to see it as a challenge to acquire the knowledge. But from my perspective, all you're doing in your videos is poking around in the control electronics with a stick and then asking your viewers if they can help you understand what you're doing. I don't claim to be omniscient, and I don't claim that I would have a running machine in the end with the old electronics (I'd probably swap out the 486/Dos base for a Linux PC/Raspberry with LinuxCNC and MESA FPGA boards). But I think if that's your goal, you should test a few things and then decide what to do next. Figuring out that the Z axis is freaking out because it's not getting encoder values wasn't bad - at the same time, as far as I can tell, you did that because I made my comments about it. My mechatronics teacher always hammered it into us: "Be methodical!!!" That's why your realisation that one of the sensors is broken was followed by the question of whether the supply voltage is OK. The electrolytic capacitors tend to dry out and have a higher leakage current(the latter is more or less fixable) after years of not being powered, tantalum capacitors (small values, usually near ICs for stabilisation) tend to go up in smoke, stink and cause shorts - but: unless there's some indication that there's a problem with the supply voltages - or that some part of the electronics isn't doing what it should - there's no point in throwing a bunch of capacitors at the controller. You won't gain any new insights that way. You may invest a lot of work without solving the problem, or you may cause even more damage - or the problem may go away but you don't know the exact reason. All this is bad. If you don't know what the part you're looking at does, do a Google search with the part number or do a basic electronics course - or, and this might help you more, ask some people who work with the scopes to help guide you. You could also do a debugging livestream on youtube / twitch, or ask if someone wants to help you via video call ... whatever. I suspect the issue can be found at the interface between the machine-controller and the encoder, I would check if the encoder supply is ok and then find a way to test if the machine-controller is able to read the encoders; if not troubleshoot the interface electronics / cabling(for testing I would do my own short cable). The faulty bios battery can be an issue - the old buffer-batteries tend to leak and corrode the copper-traces around it.
I think the motor brushes being only worn a bit on one side is a indication that someone already tried to fix the motor by swapping the brushes..
There’s some truth to what you’re saying I hope you’ll stick around and keep watching. I made a decision to ask more help in these videos than I normally do. I have new encoders on order I just figured I’d get that in and then see if it works. Will definitely check the supply voltage too especially on that Z axis. The drive capacitors have some potential leakage corrosion on end caps and so I pulled those two out to check them and not planning to pull anymore capacitors at this time. I’d like to try and make this thing work in its original state. It’s modeled after a FANUC control which would be nice to learn. If it becomes apparent it will never work as is I do have an AXBBE Ethernet controller with stepper motors that I bought for my mini mill project that is not completed. I could take all that but I know that wouldn’t be easy either so trying this route first. Thanks for the feedback.
Something bad happened with the X axis before I started these videos that I didn’t make very clear and that is that I was trying to home it like the Z axis and it didn’t behave like it should have per the operator manual. What it did was slam into the end of travel and try to keep going for close to a minute. I hit E stop at that point because I smelled something. And the motor was hot and would not move until it cooled down the next day. So there already was a problem before then but this event may have caused more issues. As far as the Bios battery it is bad and has some corrosion on it but it doesn’t appear to have traveled onto the board. Figured I’d deal with that if I get it working. Maybe should have just ordered a battery with the other parts…
8:08 What you want to do there is separate the power supply from your multimeter, then use the meter to check the voltage across the cap. It should be at 10 volts or so and decrease slowly so the charge in it bleeds down through your meter.
The two-legged screw-down components outside the heatsinks are diodes.
The screwed-down parts are MOSFETs; they're used here as amplifiers. The control circuitry will turn them on and off (with small currents) to control the muscle power to the motor.
Thanks a lot Jim!!!
DIR on motor drives is high to move the motor in one direction and low to move it in the other. PWM is pulse width modulation, a digital means of representing an analog signal. At a guess they've used that as a "run at this rate" command. You'll need an oscilloscope to see what it's doing on that pin.
Don't be surprised if the Aliexpress prices change when you log in, they're pretty loose with that.
For the first one try Mouser p/n 598-476TTA063M, $0.86 apiece. Their site tried to push me towards Ta caps too, no surprise when those start at $7 apiece.
It looks like the hole came out very smooth wall and I didn't see a burr around the top of the hole at least
It was pretty clean edge but sharp. No heat and no galling. These things cut really great.
Hi, I wouldn't take it apart. Since you pulled it out of the machine I would take it to your electronics shop, hook it up to mains, maybe - if you know the specs - add a power resistor that fits to the outputs to draw some power and then check the output voltages. The power supplys brand sola still exists. So there is still a chance to get some datas. The big metal components are bipolar power transistors - it's a linear power supply (means it just dissipate power to regulate its output voltages, more or less like a variable resistor). Nichicon is a good capacitor manufacture. Usually they stand for quality and do not go bad quickly. The markings for the values are hidden on the other side. Gereetings from the Baltic Sea..
I’m discovering that finding exact replacement capacitors is not so simple so I may just skip on anything to do with power supplies like this for now, and focus on changing the capacitors that are on the drives and the other things closer to the control of the machine.
The two halves of the sensor are independent so it's odd that neither side is drawing any current. Are you getting supply voltage on the actual supply pins of the encoder sensor? If so, bridge them with a 270R to 1k resistor and measure again. If the voltage drops to zero you have a broken wire/trace or a duff solder joint between the sensor and the multiway connector. If it stays (virtually) the same, then the encoder really is toast. The resistor is to draw some current, because modern high impedance multimeters can/will give a false reading even if there is a hairline break on a PCB which doesn't allow enough current for the sensor to work.
Good to know thanks!
Yeah, the datasheet talks about that the encoder is drawing typically 17mA and max 40. So if you see it not drawing current and you've excluded everything else it's most likely dead. Check the 5V supply for the encoders of your machine before hooking the good one back to the machine, just to be sure. I'm off now for a few days.. Good luck!
The HEDs 9100 sensor come in different resolutions. They have to match the codewheel resolution for them to work correctly. I couldn’t tell from the video is both wheels are same resolution. Check if the part number on both sensors are the same. You can’t mix them if they are different. These encoders are very reliable. The problems I’ve had is the cabling. Cables break or intermittent connection from all the flexing from years of use.
Yea they are both 500 CPR. I think the X axis one is dead I test it in part 7.
Yep bad sensor then. That exactly how I test using a scope. The HEDs are still available from mouser or usdigital.
X/Z Axis Cnts/Rev = 2000 seems a bit odd if the motor is talking about 500?! Try to find out the part number of the spindle encoder and check the counts. I've read that the rhino robotics machines used flash cards(?!) - flash memory can lose it's contend after being not powered (refreshed) for 10+ years. Pitch -1000 also does not necessarily make sense to me. At least if it does not mean 10mm left instead of right.. 5:26 ..ha! Here we go, the PID parameters for tuning the for the servomotors - I think they aren't looking random. Form my opinion "X/Z Servo Error Limit" is the value the target value and the actual value is allowed to be off without the controller throwing an error.
Weird that it's only worn on the edge. I would expect it to have contact across the whole width.. is there axial play at the motor shaft?! On the other side then someone must have replaced them.
You should be able to run them by applying a voltage to the brush terminals - and then it would be good to use an oscilloscope to see if the encoders produce a usable signal. In doubt, the servo controllers are just analogue "amplifiers", and everything is controlled by the computer (via analogue outputs and the encoder/resolver signals). Is there a type or serial number on the motors? Anything that identifies them? I don't think a normal multimeter is the right tool here. With a servo, it is necessary to constantly monitor the encoder and even while not turning stear against a movement, an externally introduced error, so that what you "see" at the brush terminals is somewhere between, say, -24V and +24V DC (rapidly changing). If you unplug the encoder/resolver, I would guess that the voltage is either 0V (that would be safe) or swinging to one of the two extremes. What about the wiring of the x-axis? Is the wiring of the encoder/resolver faulty?
Thanks I will check the X axis wires. I just did part 5 video where I swapped the encoder sensors and now the Z motor is not working either. I do have access to an oscilloscope that could bring the motor too. From what you’re saying I would need the oscilloscope at the machine though. Not sure what I would be looking for. The motor is brand Pittman. With markings of 14203C757 30.0 VDC 500 CPR 3-18-93
The X motor does spin freely when I put 12VDC across the brushes on a bench test.
@hansw33 I don't think the motors are faulty - it could be that the brushes are worn out, but if you're able to run them at 12V and get some torque when you try to slow them down with your fingers, I'd guess they're fine. RUclips is a bit of a pain when it comes to posting links, but whatever. You can find the datasheet of the incremental encoder by searching for the part number. It is powered by 5V and you get 500 pulses per revolution. "The outputs of the photodiodes are then passed through the signal processing circuit, resulting in A, /A, B and /B. Two comparators receive these signals and generate the final outputs for channels A and B. Due to this integrated phase technique, the digital output of channel A is in quadrature to that of channel B (90 degrees out of phase)." This means that you can determine the direction of the movement by observing which goes high first - A or B. You can take the motors with you and apply 5 V to the encoder and use the oscilloscope to check whether the output signal is clean. To do this, turn the motor by hand or let it turn with 12V. I'm not sure how good the idea with the contact cleaner was. Isopropanol might be better or even get it working again. All in all, I wouldn't have done it. The HEDS-9100 is still available through mouser dot com, not cheap, but if you find yours is broken, it's cheaper than new motors (found some, not your exact type, for 350€...). You should also check the 5V supply for the encoder coming from the controller. If a capacitor has dried out and there is a lot of noise on the line, or if the voltage is simply too low, your encoders may not be spitting out a clean signal. A classic servo control loop is "simple": you have a machine controller with an analogue output (e.g. -10 to +10 V) that provides the target value, a servo amplifier that takes this signal and amplifies it (e.g. -30 to +30 V) to drive the motor, then you have the DC motor with an encoder to feedback the position of the motor rotor. The encoder reports the current status/position to the machine controller, the actual value, if it deviates from the setpoint, the machine controller corrects its analogue output signal until the position is correct, i.e. the setpoint matches the actual value. How well this works depends on the parameterisation of the control loop, the tolerances and sometimes also the lunar cycle... ;) Edit: I'm guessing the twisted black and white cable is the analog input of the amplifier cards. All in all, without a circuit diagram or details of the other components of the machine, it's quite a guessing game... It could also be that the control loop parameters were stored in an EEPROM or in some files that have been lost.
@@hansw33 Motor: pittman 14000 series, 30VDC, 500 counts per revolution (encoder) and manufactured 3-18-93..
@@poldiderbus3330 Thanks for all the info. Yea the motors are both good with torque at 12V. I just got back from the electronics lab and was able to setup a power supply to run the motor at 16V and then I powered the sensor with 5V from another supply and I was able to measure both signal A and B to be 90 degree out of phase. I just talked to someone else that said check every connection remove and replug and spray cleaner. Then to really eliminate issues pull out every circuit board that has a capacitor soldered in and replace all the capacitors in the boards. The motor was sensitive to bending the encoder plug a little so this thing is gonna be finicky so I’m thinking of just biting the bullet and removing and cleaning every connection and then attack the capacitors (and the bad battery of the motherboard. That was #1 and #2 suggestions I got. After that maybe I start looking at the EPROM or whatever you called it. I’ll keep posting videos as I go thanks a lot for the knowledge.
EOB= end of BLOCK.... a BLOCK is a line
Alright thank you!
That BIOS rings some very old and dusty bells, but not to the point that I can offer any suggestions.
It appears that the company is kaput, but they seem to have built the relevant parts well. Happy holidays!
Hey man, nice new toy you have there. If the mechanicals are good I'd convert it to linuxcnc, smoothsteppers and run it to the moon.
Hi Jim mechanicals are definitely solid there is actually no evidence of use. I prefer to get it going with its current setup. If that becomes impossible then I would convert it.
handy tool
It is best to store surface plates covered
Was the bronze bushing more of a slip fit? It looks like it from your video, but my new bushing won't go in without hammering on it, and I don't think that is correct. Going to try and sand a little off the outer diameter or sand a little of the housing bore.
Hi, If you hold the ring when facing with a rod you have enough leverage that the feed engagement button pops out stopping the feed. Also without stopping the spindle you can push in the button on the top and the slide automatically retracts to the set starting point that you can set with the other hard stop. You also can push the upper button at any time with running spindle to stop the feed. The feed button has adjustable tention. The rule of thumb is to use the least amount of tention to keep the feed engaged, so the cutting pressure dont disengage it by itself. Using excess tention stresses the feed mechanism.
I've seen these for sale at times and never understood how they worked. Thanks for your video.