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Yea. Good job man.

This is the first video I have seen that actually quantifies stiffness on any milling machine, small or large. Great work, very useful video!

That washer you made !!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍

Nice job!

Very thorough video needs editing.

Nice job and great explanations, thank you!

Awesome video! I would get a little fan to blow the smoke away during the cutting. I have 100's of thin 18 gauge 1" tubing to notch at the end of the tubing. I have been using a 1" endmill (on my mill) that works fine. Do you think a 1" angular cutter would work better? They are cheaper to replace than end mills when worn out.

If you stop this video at 32:05 you can see the small gear (the one with different pd on each side) really well. I may be mistaken, but isn't there supposed to be another identical gear on the pin on the opposite side? Two planetaries and the one sun gear in the middle? There's even a pocket for the missing gear on the piece in your other hand.

There's definately more than 2/0. There's 3/0 and also 4/0

You're a brave man, really well done on that, it was quite the adventure in persistence.

More wire snags than a mile of fence. Good on you for persisting.

How do you move that feed rate switch on the quill? Does it have to be running? Do you pull the knob out and then move it? Ths one on this machine seems to be stuck. I have the power feed emgaged on the upper left side. And the right to left power feed works on the table. Quill lock is off and i can move it freely with the hand crank. I can get the crank by the forward and reverse power quil switch to spin but my lever to engage it to start the power feed also seems stuck. All the maintenance people that knee goe to run this are now gone. Trying to learn how to use it. I just cant get the feed rate lever to move or the power quill switch to start the power feed.

thinking of doing this as well... any issues with the column warping after the slot? i just finished scraping, sort of not keen on doing it again? pretty annoying that the ribs only need the slightest touch to get the room... sigh... at least i know? probably do the slot, then use a fly cutter for that bit in the same setup. i can tell you, the ball nuts are pretty hard! and really, its either trim the nut a bit, or do this, take the corners off those ribs... doing the ribs gives a bit more playing area, seems the best option. meh. still just mucking around with the Y, lol. at least its a LOT nicer than it was with the original cncfusion kit i fitted years ago? fiddle fiddle, bind, grind, fiddle fiddle... no matter how hard one tried, was forever a pain in the butt. but now its scraped properly, and new ballscrews... just bolt it up tight and there you go... no grinding or binding. no wriggle in the saddle, either. yay! get the apron/way covers mounted next then i can at least see Y move with the stepper again... at least, oh my... after a weeks frustration as i attempt to get another PC actually operational. main reason its sat in the corner for the last 6 or more years... last PC blew up, (ok, it crashed for the umpteenth time and i attacked it with the remains of the last job it destroyed?) and yeah... parallel ports, windows, and not wanting to reinvest in certain things... like my gecko g540, mach3, etc... just give me XP and a parallel port and leave me alone! i want to machine things, not fight software.hardware, and dealing with all that BS... i really am sick of this "turn around and everythings obsolete" modern world syndrome... looked at linuxcnc (still doesnt fix the parallel port issue?) and even the download page makes no sense... "download this one. but dont run it, download this one instead!" but whatever you do it needs the kernel and blah blah blah blah blah blah... TLDR! yeah, i tried installing it, and ended up bricking the PC i had... that had win 10, and a pcie to parallel card that it wouldnt detect... just found an old girl that hopefully WILL accept this pcie card. wont know until... sigh... i go buy another keyboard/mouse and fire it up... *glares at last resort* usb breakout board that may or may not work... i dont know how people deal with all this BS these days, it drives me up the wall... again, i wanna machine things, not spend hours, days, weeks, learning to code this, install that, download there... it was EASY ten years ago!

Any chance you could send me a copy of those floppy disks I have the same lathe but no disk it would be a huge help and I’ll make sure it’s hosted somewhere so others can find it as well

How about buying a cheap surface plate and and a sturdy angle plate and bolting them together and mounting them to the collum from behind.

Why is every video of this boring head including tear downs??? Just bought one, and need to know.

Do you know the lenghts of the ball lead screws for each axis? Ive been looking around but no one mentions the lengths of them.

Thanks for a look inside the brake on tge warn 8274. I was able to open mine up and discovered it was in excellent shape. Now I have confidence it will not fail me when my cj5 needs it.

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I wonder if the motor (servo) is struggling because it's not seeing the load that it's tuned for.

Hello, I wanted to ask if you could help me sell me a copy of the boot disk.

Hi hansw33, to be honest, it's a bit tough watching you troubleshoot the lathe's electronics without seemingly having the slightest idea what you're doing. Of course, it's perfectly fine to have no idea, and it's commendable to see it as a challenge to acquire the knowledge. But from my perspective, all you're doing in your videos is poking around in the control electronics with a stick and then asking your viewers if they can help you understand what you're doing. I don't claim to be omniscient, and I don't claim that I would have a running machine in the end with the old electronics (I'd probably swap out the 486/Dos base for a Linux PC/Raspberry with LinuxCNC and MESA FPGA boards). But I think if that's your goal, you should test a few things and then decide what to do next. Figuring out that the Z axis is freaking out because it's not getting encoder values wasn't bad - at the same time, as far as I can tell, you did that because I made my comments about it. My mechatronics teacher always hammered it into us: "Be methodical!!!" That's why your realisation that one of the sensors is broken was followed by the question of whether the supply voltage is OK. The electrolytic capacitors tend to dry out and have a higher leakage current(the latter is more or less fixable) after years of not being powered, tantalum capacitors (small values, usually near ICs for stabilisation) tend to go up in smoke, stink and cause shorts - but: unless there's some indication that there's a problem with the supply voltages - or that some part of the electronics isn't doing what it should - there's no point in throwing a bunch of capacitors at the controller. You won't gain any new insights that way. You may invest a lot of work without solving the problem, or you may cause even more damage - or the problem may go away but you don't know the exact reason. All this is bad. If you don't know what the part you're looking at does, do a Google search with the part number or do a basic electronics course - or, and this might help you more, ask some people who work with the scopes to help guide you. You could also do a debugging livestream on youtube / twitch, or ask if someone wants to help you via video call ... whatever. I suspect the issue can be found at the interface between the machine-controller and the encoder, I would check if the encoder supply is ok and then find a way to test if the machine-controller is able to read the encoders; if not troubleshoot the interface electronics / cabling(for testing I would do my own short cable). The faulty bios battery can be an issue - the old buffer-batteries tend to leak and corrode the copper-traces around it.

8:08 What you want to do there is separate the power supply from your multimeter, then use the meter to check the voltage across the cap. It should be at 10 volts or so and decrease slowly so the charge in it bleeds down through your meter.

The two-legged screw-down components outside the heatsinks are diodes.

The screwed-down parts are MOSFETs; they're used here as amplifiers. The control circuitry will turn them on and off (with small currents) to control the muscle power to the motor.

DIR on motor drives is high to move the motor in one direction and low to move it in the other. PWM is pulse width modulation, a digital means of representing an analog signal. At a guess they've used that as a "run at this rate" command. You'll need an oscilloscope to see what it's doing on that pin.

Don't be surprised if the Aliexpress prices change when you log in, they're pretty loose with that.

For the first one try Mouser p/n 598-476TTA063M, $0.86 apiece. Their site tried to push me towards Ta caps too, no surprise when those start at $7 apiece.

It looks like the hole came out very smooth wall and I didn't see a burr around the top of the hole at least

Hi, I wouldn't take it apart. Since you pulled it out of the machine I would take it to your electronics shop, hook it up to mains, maybe - if you know the specs - add a power resistor that fits to the outputs to draw some power and then check the output voltages. The power supplys brand sola still exists. So there is still a chance to get some datas. The big metal components are bipolar power transistors - it's a linear power supply (means it just dissipate power to regulate its output voltages, more or less like a variable resistor). Nichicon is a good capacitor manufacture. Usually they stand for quality and do not go bad quickly. The markings for the values are hidden on the other side. Gereetings from the Baltic Sea..

The two halves of the sensor are independent so it's odd that neither side is drawing any current. Are you getting supply voltage on the actual supply pins of the encoder sensor? If so, bridge them with a 270R to 1k resistor and measure again. If the voltage drops to zero you have a broken wire/trace or a duff solder joint between the sensor and the multiway connector. If it stays (virtually) the same, then the encoder really is toast. The resistor is to draw some current, because modern high impedance multimeters can/will give a false reading even if there is a hairline break on a PCB which doesn't allow enough current for the sensor to work.

Yeah, the datasheet talks about that the encoder is drawing typically 17mA and max 40. So if you see it not drawing current and you've excluded everything else it's most likely dead. Check the 5V supply for the encoders of your machine before hooking the good one back to the machine, just to be sure. I'm off now for a few days.. Good luck!

The HEDs 9100 sensor come in different resolutions. They have to match the codewheel resolution for them to work correctly. I couldn’t tell from the video is both wheels are same resolution. Check if the part number on both sensors are the same. You can’t mix them if they are different. These encoders are very reliable. The problems I’ve had is the cabling. Cables break or intermittent connection from all the flexing from years of use.

X/Z Axis Cnts/Rev = 2000 seems a bit odd if the motor is talking about 500?! Try to find out the part number of the spindle encoder and check the counts. I've read that the rhino robotics machines used flash cards(?!) - flash memory can lose it's contend after being not powered (refreshed) for 10+ years. Pitch -1000 also does not necessarily make sense to me. At least if it does not mean 10mm left instead of right.. 5:26 ..ha! Here we go, the PID parameters for tuning the for the servomotors - I think they aren't looking random. Form my opinion "X/Z Servo Error Limit" is the value the target value and the actual value is allowed to be off without the controller throwing an error.

Weird that it's only worn on the edge. I would expect it to have contact across the whole width.. is there axial play at the motor shaft?! On the other side then someone must have replaced them.

You should be able to run them by applying a voltage to the brush terminals - and then it would be good to use an oscilloscope to see if the encoders produce a usable signal. In doubt, the servo controllers are just analogue "amplifiers", and everything is controlled by the computer (via analogue outputs and the encoder/resolver signals). Is there a type or serial number on the motors? Anything that identifies them? I don't think a normal multimeter is the right tool here. With a servo, it is necessary to constantly monitor the encoder and even while not turning stear against a movement, an externally introduced error, so that what you "see" at the brush terminals is somewhere between, say, -24V and +24V DC (rapidly changing). If you unplug the encoder/resolver, I would guess that the voltage is either 0V (that would be safe) or swinging to one of the two extremes. What about the wiring of the x-axis? Is the wiring of the encoder/resolver faulty?

EOB= end of BLOCK.... a BLOCK is a line

That BIOS rings some very old and dusty bells, but not to the point that I can offer any suggestions.

It appears that the company is kaput, but they seem to have built the relevant parts well. Happy holidays!

Hey man, nice new toy you have there. If the mechanicals are good I'd convert it to linuxcnc, smoothsteppers and run it to the moon.

handy tool

It is best to store surface plates covered

Was the bronze bushing more of a slip fit? It looks like it from your video, but my new bushing won't go in without hammering on it, and I don't think that is correct. Going to try and sand a little off the outer diameter or sand a little of the housing bore.

Hi, If you hold the ring when facing with a rod you have enough leverage that the feed engagement button pops out stopping the feed. Also without stopping the spindle you can push in the button on the top and the slide automatically retracts to the set starting point that you can set with the other hard stop. You also can push the upper button at any time with running spindle to stop the feed. The feed button has adjustable tention. The rule of thumb is to use the least amount of tention to keep the feed engaged, so the cutting pressure dont disengage it by itself. Using excess tention stresses the feed mechanism.

I've seen these for sale at times and never understood how they worked. Thanks for your video.