Видео

Wow. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤. Thanks for information

its so stable you so wonderful brother

Very nice work!

We need an update!!!

The F1 cut scene at ruclips.net/video/L1seUuC-cIs/видео.htmlsi=v2iioSwbljnAzRA3&t=994 was both humorous and optimistic! Great job!

how are you removing the insulation?

Would you consider in mass production? Well, by Mass I mean for a startup idea I've had for a while to produce city transport vehicles. We can work together or if you don't want to be a part of a project like this, you mind sharing the plans?

what is this winding pattern? I see they have triangle shapes, not overlapping. is his one "stronger" smoother??? also: do the 24 magnets (+24 small ones ) count as 24 magnets or 48? vs the poles?

for those that see this I am have the hardest time desining my own because of the sensors and where to put them for the best results

great motor henry can i ask what you intended to motor to be for ,or was it the project?

- Let's see, Ostia... , me cagondeu

Nice work man, enjoyed watching but please be careful around machines. Seing the cords of your hoodie dangle around that lathe made the hair on my neck stand up. Please please please for the love of god don't do that. I work with those machines, I have seen some stuff happen. There are enough videos on the web of stuff like this going wrong. Never underestimate the power of those machines and be careful. Other than that, keep it up :)

Just replace the coil of the rotor with a magnet like those of loud speakers but be careful they are made ceramics so at high rpm they shatters

is there a reason why you didn't install the axial motor you built?

What is the thickness of the copper wire and the electrical power applied?

Initial start was very quirky...not accepted and hence will not pass the test...🙅🏽‍♂️

I am finishing up some dynos same construction. What size engine are you running and roller mass? I believe you need x amount of time underload to get data that will be accurate and roller mass need to be x per hp trying to test depending on gearing.

buy boats with blown IC engines and put electric motors, charged by solar wind make a fortune.

It works, but there is no balance. That's why it works on the table as if it were an internal combustion engine.

But is the whole concept of a Axial Flux Motor that you use both sides of the Magnets and Coils,means Rotor in the middle and Coils outside closed with a magnetic Path?

very cool!

Disculpa la confianza, pero deseo hacer un proyecto eléctrico, pero necesito mayor orientaión.

It is possible to establish contact?

Hey Henry, can we sponsor your work with our software for axial flux motor design (MotorXP-AFM)?

It had so much power that it actually tried to move off the platform, nice

A scooter with your motor will be good, can not wait

hey man what is the power supply and where can i find the documents to calculate and make one for my self?

How much power can I put through something like that? Would it be able to do 25 kW or 50?

Brilliant 👍

what torque does it have? I plan to build a torque motor with 20Nm. that spins between 50 and 500RPM. diameter 12-15cm max (how to plan that??)

ruclips.net/video/exIKEsGu8nc/видео.htmlfeature=shared

Thankyou for a beautiful video!!!!

Awesome projects, modifications, adaptations lovely work indeed!!!!

Love the project!!!!!

Well done!!!❤

why does it need active cooling? especially under no load and just testing situation it should not need active cooling if designed right? Im assuming the cooling is for future projects with it where high power output must be achieved. really cool video!

Hi bro

Very nice. Are this v4 using the same magnets as earlier versions? The 10x10x5mm and 10x5x3mm ones in a Halbach configuration. I hope you continue developing the motor, it´s looking good.

Hmm, you have 2 rings of magnet wire coils, are you going to add another plate of magnets on the other side?

Very nice, really good work, you should be proud of yourself.

Great job young man! Keep it up.👍👏

If you add Hall Effect sensors, it will start more reliably and operate better at high RPM, with load or no load. On your workbench it is no problem to start it manually but in many applications you simply can't get to the motor every time you want it to start turning. Hall Effect sensors are cheap and most better controllers have an input connection for them. Two rotor disks or two stator disks, either one, will make the motor run quieter and more efficiently, and have higher peak output power.

Buena tarde, podrias hacer un video con información mas técnica como medidas, conexiones etc. para que las personas como yo que no tienen el conocimiento pero que son entusiastas puedan replicar, aprender e iniciarse en este maravilloso mundo de los motores de flujo axial, eres un bárbaro. que gran trabajo.

Зазор между каткшками и пластиной должен быть минимальным и одинаковым с обоих сторон

+100500!!!!!!!!!!!!

how many windings and what guage of wire are you using for the coils?

Well done. Giving you a thumb up. I will point out a couple of things, though. A donut magnet in place of the rotor winding, with the "claw" pole pieces retained, is very simple and will produce less cogging than bar magnets. The only problem is magnets of that type and size are expensive and dangerous to work with. A 3D printed rotor with bar magnets is possibly a bit less efficient and more labor intensive but cheaper. Hall sensors blowing is caused by the controller. For a DIY controller you can add a resistor and capacitor for protection, and maybe a diode. I use commercially made controllers, mostly Kelly pure sine wave controllers because unlike Curtis controllers, they are user programmable, like your VESC unit, but much, much cheaper. A spin test without a load is of limited value. It only proves that the motor will turn. Connect the motor to a quantifiable load, then compare output mechanical power to input electrical power, to measure your efficiency and as a tool for tweaking the firmware. A lot of guys who are only interested in producing content, are hooking ebike controllers or drone controllers or homebrew controllers with only three MOSFET devices as finals, and a battery to the field windings, and calling it a BLDC motor conversion, which is of course a big fat lie. Congratulations on turning an alternator into a real BLDC motor. And as a practical device goes, it is really stupid to not go with permanent magnets and Hall sensors for commutation, anyway. Looking forward to seeing your load test, and installation in a working project.

Could you please give the dimension of magnets and coils .And also the full description of this project.