Видео

I did the video because I broke them on the first go-around! Then figured I could help others...

Sorry for my slow response. I'm focused almost entirely on my anti-censorship efforts and haven't been on here, much. Let me know how your project goes. You'll get a faster reply on artofdiesel.substack.com Yes, that was the intercooler pipe on the intake side that I plugged. That brazing process takes some practice, and lots of heat!

Awesome! Glad to be of assistance!

Yes. I capped it. I simply cut out a piece of steel to the right shape, drilled a couple holes, and bolted it on with a homemade gasket to seal it up.

First, check laws where you live. Physically removing the EGR and capping off the hole is the easy part. After that, you need a tune so that the ECU isn't looking for it. The tuners on this page come with a great endorsement, so perhaps one of them can help you: www.blacksmokeracing.com/software-specialists/

Somewhat. I didn't source the TCU from Drew and I don't think it's as snappy as it could be. If you watch my latest video ruclips.net/video/fN4EfwAWOa4/видео.htmlsi=C1JVamoTa4oggvr5&t=672 , the 3-4 shift seems kind of slow. Eventually I'd like to look at the Rand Nash's Ultimate NAG-52 setup to get this dialed-in better. github.com/rnd-ash/ultimate-nag52-fw ruclips.net/p/PLxrw-4Vt7xtu9d8lCkMCG0_K7oHcsSMtF

Some have told me that they can buy the non-US version without swirl flaps, which is probably a lot better than the braze job I did on mine. Early in this video, when I pop the hood, you can see that I drilled a hole in the aluminum plug I brazed where the EGR used to be, and put the sensor there. It's at a right angle to the flow, so the Bernoulli effect may be why my measured pressures are a few PSI lower than what the MAP sees. This is directly across from the MAP sensor, so I thought it'd be good. The walls in the manifold are pretty thin in most areas, so I think this is pretty good overall. One might drill the hole at an angle like the MAP uses.

@@ArtOfDiesel Oke, thank you, bought a manifold with no flaps, will start to work on it on Monday, thanks! p.s. Subbed!

@@GeoBot_Gaminglet us know how it goes! Did you subscribe to the Substack, too? That's really the best place where we'll share details. You can also comment in the forum there. Thanks!

​@GeoBot_Gaming where did you buy the manifold?

Thanks, @lukas0054, we discussed this and we could actually get a bit more out of these injectors without pushing the injection duration too far past TDC. We did actually have more fueling and recently backed off on that. I brought up that we could probably get away with more boost as we went through the process and we discussed that. (This gauge reads ~4psi low...so I'm not recommending GlowShift gauges to anybody!) We decided to back off on pushing the Lithuanian turbo further. We'd be more concerned about the high EGTs if I was going to be spending a lot of time in that range, like the truckers might when they are pulling a load up a long grade. For such a short duration, we judged we are good-to-go for now. I might still decide to take this car a couple steps further with larger injectors, the bigger high pressure pump, and a better hybrid turbo. If the subscriber count jumped up and I had paid subscribers on my Substack, I'd do a lot more to make that happen. For now, you might take an interest in my more important channel @Paracontrarian, where a lot more content will be coming in the near future. Thanks!

@@ArtOfDiesel If the boost is actually24 psi, then the EOI is too far past TDC. OM648 with their quite short stroke, compared to other engines, don´t like too much advanced SOI and too long durations (EOI should not go over 10 degs after TDC). I have the came car and I stopped at 84 mm3 of fuel with 24 degs of SOI at 4k rpm (SOI could be advanced 1-2 degrees more, because stock injectors don´t make such PCP spikes, so about 88 mm3 without too high EGTs). About the fuel economy, I have optimalised SOI tables and got up to 43 MPG on highway. Now my injectors started leaking little bit, so I have ordered big injectors from ETK. I hope, that the fuel economy does not drop significantly. Best bigger injectors for dailying are probably Black smoke racing street injectors, which are good for little bit over 400 hp. ETK´s turbo isn´t bad. It is on the smaller side, but strong enough for reliable 370hp at 35 psi of boost, where the gearbox starts to fail.

@@lukas0054, do yourself a favor and talk to Drew at Mid-Tennessee Diesel. He helped with Alex's tune at LegitStreetCars and partners with Black Smoke Racing. He knows his stuff and definitely disagrees on the acceptable angle past TDC... Please ask him about other customers of his that have tried the ETK injectors: eurodieseltuning(at)gmail.com, 615-601-1728. Meanwhile, I'm focusing on my other efforts. Thanks!

I love the Mercedes diesel cars especially the 6 cylinder ones. I run a 320. CDI which I’ve had tuned but feel it could make more power unlike your car it’s the v6 but when it’s on song it’s the fastest car I’ve ever owned! I including a BMW m140. Problem is it’s not always on song! Should I take it to a tuner? Love the car..

@@jonathantuke1908 I like the OM642s (3.0 V6), also! I've owned a couple and put in off-the-shelf tunes from Malone on one and Green Diesel Engineering on another. GDE was the better tune, but I don't think they currently do the OM642. With their tune, my wife's ML320 CDI is actually very quick (440 lb-ft)! Drew at Mid-Tennessee Diesel tells me that he works on these, too. You should contact him. I believe you'll get the best tune for your money from him: eurodieseltuning(at)gmail.com, 615-601-1728.

I have the same problem, do you find a solution?

Had a bad sensor. I've replaced it since then.

A lot mate

@@c4r5on88 Which one is 5g tronic? They told me not to go above 650nm without changing the friction discs.

@rukiyehasan1855 I believe upto 1000nm

Lynnwood wa? How long is the warranty good for?

I had the front and rear wheels off the ground, so the differential in the transfer case would allow movement. When you move the front axle in one direction, the rear axle can move in the opposite direction. If you only have the front or the rear wheels off the ground, you can try putting it in neutral, but I think it's best to get all four in the air and take advantage of the transfer case diff.

Cincinnati area. I'm not a mechanic for a living, but if you find yourself in this area, I might be able to help with some things. Get a free account on my substack and we can chat more on there. It's also easier to make direct contact that way. artofdiesel.substack.com/

Man...it's a lot of work and you don't want to be paying me for all of that. I'm not a mechanic for a living (I'm engineering manager in the aerospace world) and this is just my hobby. Contact a local machine shop to see what they can do for you. They'd probably have better equipment than I do and would be a lot cheaper/quicker than me. OR: Somebody provided an input about using a kind of slurry for this that is supposed to be a lot easier than my approach. Supposedly the information is on RUclips if you search around. If you find it and use it, please share your results! Also, please join my substack for free to chat in more detail: artofdiesel.substack.com/

@@ArtOfDiesel 😩😩😩

Oh, goodness... I'm sorry to hear you've replaced all of that. The P0113 code is about the inlet air temperature sensor. This is found on the front of the aluminum tube that goes up from the intercooler to the mixer on the bottom of the intake manifold. These are cheap and relatively easy to replace. I recently replaced mine, in fact, with this part. Some might say to stick with Bosch/OEM, but this is working fine for me: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BL2ZP3JP

This is wrong info. I’m struggling with the same P0113 code which is sensor 1 IAT. If I unplug the sensor you are referring to, that throws a P0098 IAT sensor 2 code. I cannot seem to find where the IAT sensor 1 is on this car, starting to think it’s an ECU issue.

Dude I feel your pain. I’ve got the same code as you and for the life of me I can’t figure it out. MB dealer looked at it a couple of hours and couldn’t figure it out, said they’d need more time to diagnose.

If it's the transmission controller, you can check out these guys. I bought a TCU from them. Just make sure you check your axle ratio and provide that to them, along with the other info on your car. mkultraelectronics.com/

@ArtOfDiesel currently we don't actually know what it is but don't think it's the controller as if you move it it selects gears on the dash still. It's also had a new conductor plate fitted but still nothing 😂 I'll get around to figuring out at some point. Just wish it was sooner as I really need it

@@c4r5on88 you are telling me that the selector works. However, there could be a problem with the transmission control unit or its communication with the rest of the vehicle. If you were in the Cincinnati area, I'd say to bring it by, we'll hook up the MB Star, and see what it tells us about your transmission, checking for errors that aren't going to be found with OBDii. If you want to contact me further, become a free subscriber to my substack. artofdiesel.substack.com/